Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 - 1000 RPMs At Stop Sign And Clunk Sound
Jan 9, 2016
My 2002 F-150 with the 5.4 has an issue with a high rev (1000 RPM for a few seconds) while at a stop sign, along with a clunking/banging sound coming from under the truck. This is when I have the brake mashed all the way, and this all happens at the same time, almost every time I come to a stop at a stop sign or light. I do have an intake manifold leak, which i have recently determined, but I do not know if the high rev at a stop sign has to do with the manifold leak or to do with the transmission sounding thump I hear. Could this be a torque converter not unlocking, and then suddenly unlocking? Because after the thump sound, the RPM's go down to around 650 from 1000 every time.
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2012 f250 SC xl 6.2 - Is it normal to hear a single clunk sound on occasion when accelerating from a stop sign? Doesn't happen all the time mind you and I don't ever remember hearing it in the past.
Now just today, while backing up my driveway, as soon as I started the reverse motion, I heard the same clunk. Sounds like metal to metal and comes from the rear of the truck.
Only 7000 miles on her and I treat her like a baby...anything I should be concerned with?
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2000 f150 4x4 5.4 7700 series. Problem I am having is taking off from a stop sign the engine feels like its not getting any fuel especially when out side temp gets above 90 or some higher, truck runs great other then that ,expected fuel mileage is good,no codes at all, doesn't miss or jump..
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I have a 99 7.3 F250. It dies when I slow down for a turn or for a stop sign. At highway speed, it 'surges' sometimes, and makes he whole truck jump. Also, there is a small leak in the tube connected to the turbo. Has 250k miles ......
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I have about 200k on my forester. Friday when I was leaving work I cranked it up and it made a loud knocking sort of sound. I drove it home (about 15 miles) and on the way the sound lessened. It was louder when the car was idling but she made it home ok. Next day, started the car and it happened again. Not more than 50 feet up the road we stopped at a stop sign and it sounded like a semi was starting up around the corner. Much to my dismay it was not a semi but my own car. Engine shut off. We pushed it back to the house and tried to check it out the next day. This time, we started it, didn't go anywhere, and within 30 seconds it turned off. Same loud knocking sort of sound. The confusing part is that all of this happened within two days. There was no gentle sound leading up to it for a few weeks or even a few days. Knocked on Friday, shut off on Saturday. What could be going on?
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I'm getting a CLUNK when coming to a stop with my truck.
If I shut off the overdrive while coming to a stop it doesn't do it. Or if I manually shift it down a gear.
I read on here it could be a U-joint or the yoke or something and maybe something needs greased.
Anyway I crawled under the truck and it looks like I need a special socket to remove the 4 bolts holding the driveshaft to the rear end.
What type of socket it this? No grease fittings on my U-joints. What's causing this CLUNK as well?
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I have a 1997 Saturn SL1 with 100k. Every so often the RPMs will drop by 500-1000 or so for a second and then come back up to normal. This happens both when stopped at a light and while accelerating, and doesn't seem to happen predictably. I've already changed the filters and cleaned out the IAC, without any success. I've sprayed the obvious connection points in hopes of locating a potential vacuum leak, also without any luck. Other ways to locate a potential vacuum leak that wouldn't be overly time-intensive?
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I have a 2003 Ford Musang 3.8L v6 when I start my car for the first time of the day or after several hours of sitting the car idles high between 1000-1300 RPMs for approximately 15-20 seconds after that it idles down to 600-800 rpms. I changed the spark plugs wires air filter not sure what else it could be no Check engine light.
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I have an 02 f150 ext cab fx4 with just under 140,000 miles my first problem was when I shift from reverse to drive I have a loud clunk/bang I was trying to find out what was wrong so my brother in law was looking out the drive shaft he pushed it into the rear end now when I am over 65mph and take my foot off the gas I have a vibration but only when I take my foot off the gas and above 60-65mph the steering wheel or peddles don't vibrate but the floor does .
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My mother has a '04 Santa Fe 3.5. Her automobile makes a rattling/grinding sound when around 1000rpms/idle. However, the sound disappears when accelerating and drives like a charm. The sound returns once again around 1000rmps at idle or stop. I have changed the oil pan, replaced oil and filter and even put in a new battery. I'm not an aficionado when it comes to Hyundais (Subaru driver here).Car also has 180k miles.
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I have a 1997 Saturn, and have noticed for the past couple of months that when the car is idling at a stoplight, the engine seems to rev or almost skip a little bit. The RPMs go from about 1000 down to 500 for a couple of seconds, and this will happen once every 10 seconds or so. Otherwise, it runs fine...but this is happening more and more frequently than it used to.
I had the transmission rebuilt over the summer and its still under warranty. What might be causing this?
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If I could determine the resistance of the accelerator pedal at around 1000 rpms, couldn't I rig up that resistance and switch it on in the accelerator pedal circuit to make the truck go to high idle? Any flaws in my thinking?
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I have a 2002 F350 with the 7.3 diesel. I have had this truck since it had 30K miles on it and it now had 90K miles. It has been trouble free minus new pads and batteries. I recently changed the fuel filter and used a Donaldson filter. In the last week while driving the truck just mysteriously shuts off when I slow down for a stop sign. The only lights on the dash is the red battery light, and it fires right back up. I believe it has the original CPS in it as I have never changed it. Do you think this is the CPS going out or something else? I was wondering if the Donaldson fuel filter has anything to do with it?
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My 02 camry recently started dying at a stop and would not idle above 1000 rpm. I cleaned the throttle body(very dirty) and the car started right up idling at about 1500-2000 rpm i walked away for a minute and came by to drive it and no acceleration would come as well as when i start it up now it just goes back to idle at about 500 rpm.
I am not sure what the problem may be, my air filter box is not on properly I am going back to the car to tighten it down today but i highly doubt it will fix anything. I also read something about the computer needing reset, if i go and unhook the batter for 30 min and hook it back up will the computer reset and possibly fix my acceleration problem?
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I came to a stop at a stop sign and the car just quit. Its a 02 12v vr6 5 speed...
So I tried restarting it and it will only crank...
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IOur 2003 suburban often gets a "reduced engine power" displayed by the computer and the RPMs drop to below 1,000. The vehicle will not accelerate and will not go above 1,200 RPMs no matter how much gas it is getting. Flooring the gas pedal has absolutely no effect and the truck continues on its merry way at about 20 miles per hour.
I have been told by various amateurs that it is the gas lines or electronics that regulate the gas flow. The reduction in engine power seems to happen randomly, but most often if the vehicle is idling for too long (and I'm sure the 110 degree heat doesn't work). I can get it fixed much quicker if I know what the problem may be.
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It's winter here and as my car warms up it starts to tick. It doesn't happen right away, only as the car warms up and it gets progressively louder until a certain point at which point it seems to stop (or has faded significantly). It primarily happens in idle and in gear but will go away after revving above a certain point (around 1500-2000rpm). If I put it in neutral the noise is greatly reduced or disappears completely unless I rev it from about 1000rpm-1500rpm. Once the car reaches operating temperature the noise is gone. What it could be? The sound appears to be coming from the top of the entire. Also, it doesnt seem to do this when its warm outside. I have a 2011 sonata GLS and I change the oil every 3000 miles. I use either Bosch filters or OEM filters so I know the filter has nothing to do with the ticking.
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When @ a light or stop sign the car vibrates excessively to the point it makes my daughter sick. I do feel it vibrating but it doesn't bother me but something is definitely wrong. There are no engine lights on, I can hear the top end tapping and clattering, I did check the valve clearances which seem to be barely within specs. She says it vibrates worse when the tank is full. She also said when the tank is full the front end shakes driving down the road. I'm kinda wondering the front end shaking with a full tank might be the rear struts.
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Ok, I was reading the one on the V8s, but not sure with the V6s. First off, let me tell you what has been done. I replaced fuel and oil filters, Plentum seal, and bolts, replaced plug wires, and coilpacks, and the PCV valve. I can't remember what else I did, but it was before Spring Break last year when my daughter and I were taking a trip across the US to pick up a motorcycle and do site seeing. Anyways, before I did all of this, the truck was getting to the point where I could not get it over 45 or it would feel like the trany was going. When I pulled the plugs out, they were running lean. I have had my Check engine light pop on with the Cam Pos Sen, but I have replaced that. That code has never came back, but it is still running lean, and backfiring in the intake when leaving a stop. I am wondering if the fuel pump may be going out, or what else it might by. I work on older cars with carbs, so not all that sure with the injection stuff.
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The other day while at a stop sign in my e99 F450, I went to take off and stalled. I am not sure if the stall was my fault or not; however, it would not start. I turned the key on and the wait to start light did not come on.
The first thing I checked was the mini 30 amp fuse under the dash that controls the GRP and the fuel bowl heater. The fuse was good, and my heater has been unplugged for a while anyway. Recently my SES light came on with codes that said the glow plugs had low voltage for both banks. I have cleaned the wires a couple times and the light goes out but then comes back on after a minute or so.
I figured that maybe if it was a bad wire it finally went bad so I got jumper cables and started to try and jump wires. I moved them around and found that when I hooked one side to the positive battery terminal and the other to the small key hot wire on the glow plug relay, the light would come on and it would start. I left the cables hooked up and drove the couple miles back home.
After messing with it I figured I could run a new wire. I got a fuse tap, and went from the 30 amp mini fuse that controls this system anyway, and ran it up to the post on the GPR for my new keyed hot wire. The WTS light would cycle and it would crank, but no start. After some more messing around I decided to put both the original wire back onto the post with the new wire that I had just put on; after doing this it started right up. I took it for a test drive and a couple times the engine would act like it stalled, only for a split second. When looking down at the dash immediately after the tach would be at normal RPM and the WTS light would be on, as if I shut the key off and tried to start it again.
I suspect it is the original key hot wire that goes to the GPR. It appears that this wire also has a purpose, other then serving as only a keyed hot wire for the GPR. It has about 6 inches off of the GPR, then it goes into the harness. Where that wire goes? I will just run a new wire instead of having to dig through that harness... that doesn't look like something I would wish upon my worst enemy.
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04 Honda CRV: I just had new rotors / pads / calibers put on my rear 2 tires because I was getting a loud creaking sound whenever I reversed or stoped at a stop sign. Most notibly I would hear it after the car had sat for a few hours as it's not happening a 100% of the time... Am I looking at joint or wheel well problems now? The loud creaking is still an issue...
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