Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - Welding On Rocker Panels
Sep 17, 2014
I'm getting ready to do some welding on the rocker panels on my 2001 f150 supercrew. Just making sure I just have to disconnect ground at battery. Never had a problem before but my neighbor blew both his airbags attempting it on his chevy. He said he had battery disconnected, wasn't specific as to which cable, and was grounding off the door strike which could have something to do with the airbags deploying? I've done it on a 02 chevy with no problems
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hey haven't been on this forum since I had my 1995 f150 (miss that strait sixer). Here is my question I bought a 2001 ford f150 supercrew with rusted rocker panels a year ago now there gone I have some tube steps attached wondering what the panel is that they attach to cause that seems pretty rusty as well and wondering if there is anyway of replacing it and if so where can I find it? I found all kinds of the outer rocker but not that inner rocker? if that is what you call it.
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I have considerable rust on both sides at the rocker panels. Both running boards are precariously perched and won't last long (don't really care about that; I'll do without).
In my search for replacement panels, I'm only able to find ones for "crew cab super duty," not specifically the Excursion. Wouldn't they be identical? Identical enough?
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I've got a 2004 and need to run some cables from under the rear seat to the front. I want to use the channels in the rocker panels, ie. where the bottom of the door closes, and behind the column between the front and back. How to remove these pieces.
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It took me ten years to talk my wife into buying a Toyota. (Her brother sold Chevrolet)... We got a new 2009 Corolla LE made 4/2008 in Japan. (bought new in late 2008)...
The paint is fading on the rocker panels and the gas cap door. The rest of the paint I am trying to keep up. (clay, polish and wax). The paint chipped really bad on the hood. It was so bad I sanded it down and found rust pits all over the metal.
The engine makes a very loud rattle sound when starting. It is especially bad when cold. We took it to the dealer while under warranty and they couldn't hear anything unusual so they said.
She had the dealer install an alarm system. They botched the job and destroyed the computer requiring several trips back and a loaner car. Alarm no longer works today. The rubber weather stripping around the windows is pealing off.
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I've got a 2000 f150 4x4 extended cab, and the rocker panels under the doors are getting rust holes in them. I would like to get mine fixed/replaced this spring. My truck is in great shape other than the rust holes under the doors.
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A 2002 F-150 XLT. I was lucky enough to find one that had always been garage kept and has no rust. Unfortunately, I do not have a garage at my house and I need to prevent rust in the rocker panels and cab corners, the typical rust spots. Is it as simple as buying a can of 3m undercoat and spraying the inside of the panels? How to prevent rust?
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how much HP is there expected to be with adding high flow cats?
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2001 F-150 Headlights won't go off when i turn the switch off , all other lights due, this is the first time this has happened , had to pull the headlight fuses to shut the off ?
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The AC on my 2001 F150 didn't work correctly so I bought a gauge and a bottle of AC juice and decided to charge the system. The AC starts out cold and turns warm. I put the gauge on the system and the needle goes to the red portion of the gauge. The AC will turn warm.
Is there a relay switch that quits functioning? Is there a code I could look at to determine the problem?
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I just purchased a 2001 F150 XLT with a 5.4 engine. If I start the truck and let it idle, it will hold steady around 900rpm's. If I give it a little gas and then let of (all while in park). The rpm's never come back down to 900. It hangs at approximately 2000rpm's. If I turn off the truck, wait a few minutes, start it back up, the engine idles fine again at 900rpm's. If I give it some throttle again, the same scenario takes place.
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I need to check for any A/C leaks, and get more recharge to make A/C colder. How can this be done? Can this be done at home? What type of refrigerate do I need. Kings Ranch -102,000 miles.... 2001 F-150 5.4 ....
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Transmission lost 3rd and 4th gears so I pulled it and found the direct drum burnt up, got new drum and changed all seals, clutches, steel plates, aftermarket cooler and put a sure cure kit in it.
Truck drove great until it blew the front seal out 250 miles later, took it to a shop since I was away from home and he said the clutches got hot so he completely rebuilt it. Truck made it 150 miles and lost 3rd and 4th again. He replaced all the solenoids also.
Transmission shop rebuilt it again and it made it 80 miles and now it will not move at all. We replaced the neutral switch, shift cable, and shifter handle on the last rebuild because he thought it was hanging between neutral and drive.
What else could be making this transmission keep going out? Could it be a bad case, bad valve body or what? We are at a total loss on what keeps burning it up.
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Need some input on miss firing on acceleration on a 2001 Ford SuperCrew F-150 Lariat, 5.4 engine. 200,290 miles.
Have replaced all spark plug boots covers (Sept 2012), number 1 plug (Sept 2012), 3 and 7 plugs replaced, 3 and 7 has heli-coil kits (2011) installed for blown out plugs. New in-take manifold (2010). New gas line filter, air and oil filters (Oct 2012) and oil changes every 3000 to 3500 miles. Have poured 12 oz. fuel injector cleaner in gas take two times with 6 to 7 gallons of fuel in gas tank (last 2 weeks).
Have No check engine light on for service engine but have had an diagnostic scanner analyzer plugged into driver side, in cab outlet, 4 different times to see if I have a bad coil on plug or other problems. No codes show up indicating any problems. The engine idles nicely when at stop lights but does have a slight intermittent miss at times when warmed up and stopped at lights. Engine misses when warmed up on acceleration (when it is under a load and on acceleration).
Had a mechanic tell me he could plug an analyzer into engine but couldn't guarantee he would find anything wrong. This sounded like a little snow in July to me and the mechanic didn't sound optimistic.
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My AC clutch is not turning on. I do not have any AC gauges but if I unplug the compressor and put a meter on the 2 harness pins, I do not see any voltage when truck is running and AC on. I really don't know much about AC but I am thinking the problem may possibly be the low pressure switch or possibly low on freon. How can I check if I am low on freon without gauges? Where exactly is the low pressure switch located on my truck and if I jump the switch and the clutch kicks on, does that tell me that the problem can only be the low pressure switch or low on freon. I'm just trying to work through a few of the gremlins.
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I need to diagnose a heat problem. I have a 2001 F150 XL. 4.2L Manual controls. The a/c blows nice and cold, but when you put the heat on its not really hot, blows warm air. I changed the blend door actuator,it got a little warmer. Now that winter is around the corner need to figure it out and fix it. The thermostat, water pump, and coolant flushed before I bought it. Could it be the blend door itself, or is there another actuator I'm missing.
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I parked my truck yesterday and know the odometer display was working. Started truck up this morning and no display. My brake light (idiot light in dash) was slightly illuminated as well. The truck ran fine and when I shut it off and started it back up again, the odometer was still out but the brake light was off. Any thoughts? I saw a you tube video showing a cold solder joint on the back of the dash motherboard. I hate to pull that all apart if there could be something else that is simple.
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2001 S-Crew, 4RW70, 5.4L, 189,000 miles. This started two years ago and first became apparent when I made a hard/panic stop. In fact, the first time it did it I was going to go through a traffic light and hit the brakes at the last second so I didn't actually run the red light. The truck shook like it missed for a second. That was unlikely as the coils and plugs were relatively new.
Here's what it does. When sitting still, in gear and you let off the brake but do not touch the accelerator, the truck will start to move as expected. It immediately shudders as it passes through 3-5 mph and then stops. It shifts through all the gears flawlessly, has no sign of the dreaded torque converter issue. It also does it as you come to a stop- as you come to a full stop and the trans shifts into 1st it shudders just as you come to a halt.
It started doing two years ago and never progressed. It's been the same until just recently when the weather got warm again. It's gotten a bunch worse in the last week and now the truck actually feels like it is idling rough sitting at a stop. (It's not- it's running fine.) But it feels like clutch chatter in a manual. Fluid changes have been routinely done every 30,000-40,000 miles, trans fluid is clear and not burnt, temps are normal.
As I said, it behaves perfectly the rest of the time and even tows my 20' 4,000 lb. boat just fine. Just that initial moment of take-off and at the stop. If I hit the gas when taking off I never feel it. Likewise, if you shift into neutral and coast to a stop it doesn't do it.
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Ok, did a quick search, found nothing. Is there a way to get CEL codes without a reader on '01 F150? I know the way on 80's stuff, is there on newer stuff?
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I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew Lariat. About a month ago I stopped to fill up with gas and afterwards it would crank but not start. After a few tries the engine would no longer turn over. My battery was 7 years old so I replaced it and the problem went away for about 5 days. Then the same thing, crank but no start. I checked all the fuses & called the local Ford dealer.
After talking with the parts dept. I tried hitting the panic button then the truck started. After talking to parts again I replaced the PATS transceiver. After 3 weeks with no issues the problem came back. This time I locked the doors with the keyless entry remote then unlocked them & the truck started. So I'm wondering what is my problem. Could it be the PATS module or something with the keyless entry module or some other issue.
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I just had to replace a cluster for a customer due to the odometer light being out. I need to reprogram the PATS system in the ECM, I was wondering if there was a way to do this without having a IDS. I do have the AE with the FORD bundle, but its at home. My Snap On Solus wont do it.
I know you can do it with a GM by bumping the key every 10 minutes for 30 minutes...didn't know if there was a way around it or if the AE has the ability.
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