Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - Upper Control Arm Cam Bolts
Feb 13, 2013
2001 F-150 4x4 5.4L. I am going to replace the upper control arms this weekend. I noticed that there are regular bolts with no cam washer installed. I have read conflicting info on whether the cam washer set up is needed. Do I have to install these or can I just put the old bolts back in just like they are. When I replaced the uppers on my 1997 T-Bird I put in new bolts but there was no mention of a cam washer setup for it anywhere that I saw. What would be the problems if I just reinstalled the old bolts. Right now the truck drives straight as an arrow but the lower ball joint on the driver side is shot so I will be replacing it also.
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Mounting the shock with the boot up or down? I know it doesn't matter according to Bilstein but one way has to be better than the other.
Second. What are the torque specs for the upper and lower bolts? I know the lower front is around 350lbs but haven't found anything for the rest. found out the rear bolts are torqued to 66lb.
Third. The front shocks didn't come with a boot to protect the shaft. Is one needed when the shock is installed?
Truck is a 2012 F150 FX4.
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I'm in the process of changing the wheel bearing and took the brakes, disconnected the sway bar, and other large bolt but can't get the upper control arm disconnected because once the nut gets to a certain point, the ball joint starts spinning with it. Tried holding the bolt at the bottom with vice grips and it still turns. I'm thinking I might have to take off the whole A arm if I can't get this nut off.
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Ok replaced the front brakes, tie rod ends, and all ball joints today. Also flushed old brake fluid and replaced with new. Now my cruise control does not work. Light on the dash momentarily flashes when I try to set the speed. I have checked all the fuses and the connections and everything appears normal.
2001 Ford F150 5.4L 4x4 off road pkg stock height and tire size.
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I have a 2001 Elantra GLS. After reading info on the forums it sounds like my crunching/clunking noise when I go over bumps would most likely be the upper control arm. Is this the only control arm?
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i have a 2003 f150 xlt 5.4 4x4 truck i change the valve gasket cuz of a leak since it was off i paint both covers but forgot the order os bolts theirs long and short bolts can some one show me a drawing or how the order of bolts go on the both sides
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So I'm replacing all the control arms on the front end of my 02 F150 Supercrew 2WD.. Drivers side wasn't much trouble, other than having to cut the top mounting post of the shock off to get it out, and breaking the swaybar link. No big deal, I'll get new ones with new bushings. Was also planning on new shocks soon also, so it'll be sooner than later. Got the passenger side upper off, and new one in. No problem there either.
The lower rear bolt came out OK also... Had to cut this shock out also... No problem... Then I got to the lower front bolt. It is frozen solid to the bushing inner sleeve. Broke out the impact wrench, impact hammer, BFH, prybar, torch, cut-off wheel, sawzall, etc... Got the bolt cut off on the nut end, but can't get cut thru the other. The sleeve must be much harder than the bolt. Went thru a few blades. Need to either find the wrenches for my grinder, or buy some new ones. can't change the cut-off wheel out right now.
You can't get a hammer in there to get a good swing at it, and the bolt head is recessed up in the frame, so you can't even pry on it once you have it out a tiny bit. So, is there any magic potion to getting these bolts out? or am I doing pretty much everything everyone else has to do? Am I just lucky it's only one of the bolts? I know I've got thru this with leaf sprints also, but there easy to take off and take over to the workbench and get the drill, saw, etc at them better.
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I have a 1998 Ford f150 4.6 2x4 i have a coolant leak on the upper intake. It comes out on the back left of the intake through a metal pipe. Well where the metal pipe is (pressed in) to the intake. Now i talk to the guy at ford dealership in the parts he said it is called the (heater pipe). He also told me that the part is 21 dollars but I have to press it in and if that does stop the leak he said I would have to buy a new intake. Now here is the problem I can not find any info regarding this heater pipe. I don't know how to remove it properly, why it is leaking. I can't find it in the handbooks that i have read so far.
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I am stymied by a weird Cruise Control problem on a 2001 F150 Lariat SuperCrew with 5.4L V8 engine that I just purchased. Long story short, the cruise control does not work. That is, when I push the "On" button at any time while the engine is running (even when traveling at highway speed), the dashboard CRUISE light does not come on.
I ran the cruise control "self check" procedure. The first time I ran it, we failed with 3 flashes. So I checked the cutout switch on the brake master cylinder, and it was indeed leaking brake fluid. So I purchased a new switch and cable (Motorcraft SW-6350 Speed Sensor Switch Repair Kit) and installed them.
With the new cutout switch, we seem to pass the self test. That is, after pressing all the buttons in order , I see all the quick flashes of the CRUISE light
(1. On (flash), 2. Resume (flash) 3. Coast (flash), 4. Set/ accel (flash)). Then the accelerator pedal is pulled away from my foot.
However, unfortunately, the cruise control still does not work. That is, when I push the "On' button at any time while the engine is running (even when traveling at highway speed), the dashboard CRUISE light does not come on. What to look at next? I note that horn works, in case that's useful info.
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How does one get to the top mounting bolts to engine? Are special tools required? Is there an access plate?
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I have a 97 f350 crew cab xl stock everything. 351 windsor in it I do believe. as of right now He is broken down pulled apart in my garage. Due to a much requested headgasket replacement. In any event long story short I got him all apart to discover that there was someone in it before me & had broken the infamous exhaust manifold bolts (5) and two of the lower intake bolts, (of course I've tried the correct route in removing these broken bolts/studs but again the year of the truck (1997) & its bone stock no way their moving...
So of course I tried the next best thing (on a budget) which is to drill them out, but I went to far into the exhaust manifold bolt holes, And now I believe that I've ruined the heads is this so? If so who knows where i can get a decent set of bolt on heads ready to go. yes this is my daily driver & since He's been down I've been going deeper in dept.
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Installing LED mounting brackets on the upper windshield area? It seems like no one has brackets for the 97-03 F150 which is surprising. I'm not really interested in the mounts that go into the roof and I'm trying to find brackets that attach along the side of the upper windshield area.
I'm looking at mounting brackets that look like this : [URL] .....
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Truck is 1997 ford f150 2wd. Needs an upper ball joint. they all look the same on parts sites. I think there is a recall on the parking pawl adjustment. I lubed up the linkage and sometimes my truck will not engage its parking pawl...
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I just replaced the engine in my F--150 with one from a van that had only 60K miles on it. It still runs rough and misses. Not as bad as the earlier engine that had dropped a valve. While trying to find the problem, I moved a large vacuum? hose at the rear of the engine maybe 1 inch diameter and it nearly fell off the barb at the back It is also connected at the other end to some type of small metal can. When I pulled on this it fell off and the engine died.
Also need the smaller 5/8 in diameter hose at front of air intake tube. I need a size or a pert number for this hose as I cannot crawl back onto the motor very many times due to a spinal problem. I would like to get this hose and then get under the firewall only one time. I am having issues with this truck, bought is used at auction running rough. Replaced engine with one that was supposed to be a good one, but it runs rough again..
I need to add that New platinum [plugs were installed and the coils were off the old engine that had maybe 50 miles on them and were from NAPA. I only hope htis hose is my problem. However I cannot find any part number or anything on it...
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Ok I have a 97 f150 4.6L. My radiator has been bad for a while. With brown rust color. I replaced my radiator, thermostat, new upper and lower hoses. Everything runs great but I have no heat. I flushed everything including the heater core. Core is not leaking into cab, and both heater hoses are cold. What should I do next FYI heat worked great until 5 days ago.
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I have recently replaced both tie rod ends and found out when I took my truck for an alignment the mechanic stated that I had bad driver side ball joints (upper & lower) I confirmed this with SEARS and they stated that it was all the ball joints upper & lowers! the Haynes repair manual (1999-2010) states "ball joints on 1999 through 2013 2WD models were not replaceable".
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I have a 2001 f350 7.3 diesel and want some info... I am switching out the air intake and thinking about the Banks package.. How does it can be compared? Also, I am dealing with an issue of a dual generator upper and lower fault codes.. I only have a single generator system and it is running strong as far as I can see.. When I start it shows 12.9 and then raises to 14 when running.. Stays there the entire run...
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My wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
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I have an 02 f150 5.4 and since I got it it hasn't had cruse control. I went to a local ford dealership and they ran the vin and didn't find any recall on it. Under the hood on the master cylinder there is brake fluid coming out of the brake control switch. Would I have to do something with the harness too?
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We've got a '96 aerostar (4x4). The bushing and upper control arm seem to need replacement but the parts seem to be obsolete. Any source for these (other than salvage yards)?
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Any hints on a easy way to change these.
After I have the wheel off do I need to disconnect the upper ball joint to remove these. It looks like I can just remove the two nuts on each side and use a jack under the rotor to support the weight. It looks like it might shift back and forth enough to get them out/in.
Will this work?
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