Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - Truck Tries To Stall Almost Sounds Like Vacuum Leak And Really Bogs Down
Aug 6, 2012
So.... here's my issue. I have a 2001 supercrew 5.4 and runs great all day long, no problem starting or anything. After I have driven it for a while and turn the AC on it cools off very good then after about a 1/2hr. the truck tries to stall. It almost sounds like a vacuum leak and really bogs down. I can wait about 2hrs and then with the AC off the truck starts and drives like it should. I am steering to the IAC valve but would like to know if this is it.
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I have a 2000 f150 with 210000 miles. The truck wants to stall when coming to a stop. I have noticed this from a higher speed and more when at operating temp. The truck runs great and idles at a stop great, but when coming to the stop the rpms drop to300 or so then it catches itself and revs up. I have cleaned the maf sensor the iac and checked throttle body all seem to be in working order and no obvious vacuum leaks.
My power steering pump is going and it's time to change plugs, but don't believe these would only effect the truck at braking. Have heard maybe torque converter is stuck this does make sense cause usually happens after getting out of first gear. Would changing the fluid solve this or should i look at sensors? Fluid starting to turn slight brown probably been in there 80000 miles.
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It has been since the 80's that I have attempted to do any work on a vehicle. How do I find a vacuum leak and where is my vacuum canister. I am assuming that it is a vacuum leak for anytime my engine has a load on it the air stops coming out of the dash vents and goes to the defrost vents. I have an 2000 F150 with the large engine with about 112,000 miles.
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This has been on going for the past year. The blend works fine. Fan speed works correctly. The selection for ac, max ac, etc., will only allow air through defrost vents. Vacuum leak?
1998 4.6 auto super cab
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I noticed a vacuum line hanging under my 98 F 150 4x4 I traced it out to my front axle question is where does the other end go I have looked but no luck to where it goes.
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I had my fuel system cleaned by the dealership last weekend and I feel like I gained 50hp+ ... Now its throwing a P0171 about a week and a half later. My computer also listed P0174 under the pending codes or whatever the section was.
2003 F150 5.4L ... I cleaned the MAF sensor a couple weeks back which stopped a rough idle and I have put some 300+ miles on it since. about 200 miles since the fuel system cleaning.
I got home and popped the hood and it sounded like a vacuum cleaner. Guess it is a vacuum leak. I might need to stop using this ford house. I swear this is the second time there was a vacuum leak(I think, first time they said it was spark gap issue). I'll be heading back in the morning now.
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The one on my truck sounds pretty wimpy. I don't use it a lot but it's supposed to get your attention... Mine., Not so good.
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I'm getting the p1131 error on my 2000 xlt f150 5.4l. I know it's usually a vacuum leak on the pcv hosing, which I did have at the back and replaced as well as other softer joining sections(3 to be exact lol), but I'm still getting this error. Changed out my plugs and cops(as they needed it) and the back two plugs on both bank 1 and 2(plugs 4&8) were both white! Since this is an obvious indication of a lean burning cylinder can I make the assumption my most likely problem is dirty fuel injectors on those cylinders?
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I've had this problem for a little while now, my 97' F150 V8 4.6L, has been running real loud and heavy. When it starts up it sounds like a race car. It finally shot me a code for P0171 - Bank 1 (passenger side) running too lean. From what I've read, this is most likely a vacuum leak but I don't know too much about it.
A couple of things I've noticed while driving it around:
1. If you are in the engine compartment while its running, you smell the excess gas on the passenger side of the truck.
2. The exhaust also smells really heavy
3. The loud and heavy running is mainly when accelerating, if I maintain a constant speed at for a little while it almost starts to run normal. Cruising down the highway its almost just as quiet as before the issue
4. Engine coolant heats up much more quickly, but doesn't get above operating temperature (read from tuner, never above 200 degrees)
In response to the problem I replaced both the O2 sensors closest to the engine and the PCV and elbow. No change. Have a fuel filter ready to install, but for some reason I don't think that is it either, as it would probably effect both bank 1 and 2.
Like I said I'm not too well versed in the vacuum system but if any of these symptoms stand out I'd love to hear your thoughts.
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I am having problems with a 2003 Ford F 150 with a 4.2 L V6. The problem is that it is giving me code errors that would indicate bad O2 sensors. I replaced both the upper and lower O2 sensors, and still I get the same codes. I was told by the mechanic with the computer reader that this usually means a bad vacuum seal. He suggested looking for bad hoses, but did not offer much more than that. How to proceed?
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Recently I have been having a strong gas smell coming from my 1997 F150 Supercab 4.6L 2wd. It is not happening all of the time. I have also been hearing what sounds like a vacuum line leak. A loud shrill which varies with the engine rpm. This also does not happen all of the time.
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I have an exhaust leak that has gotten worse and is quite loud now. I have been under the car and a mechanic just checked what he could without a lift and didn't find any leaks. Yesterday, I had it up on ramps and looked under and think the sound is coming from where a heat shield is. When I'm in the car the noise sounds like it's slightly in front of me.
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I am in the process of trying to chase down a vacuum leak on my 2003 F150 with the 5.4. I have checked all lines and cannot find it. I decided to check the long term fuel trim and noticed that my bank 1 is slightly higher than bank 2 (screenshot attached). Is this enough to assume the leak is on the bank 1 side?
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My truck has a vacuum leak or something. it will not start no mater what i do until i take off the vacuum house that goes from the back of the throttle to the right side of the valve cover. and when it running if i put it back it stop.i have changed that vacuum hose and the connector on the valve cover. What is going on here?
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Recently my car has been doing some weird things. After driving it for about an hour, I get a sound from the engine compartment that sounds like a vacuum cleaner. It's fairly loud, but it's mostly just noticeable from the outside. The car continues to run, but if I turn it off, it doesn't restart (does not even crank). Last night I was driving at about 55 MPH and all the electronics went off and then came back on. In other words, the radio restarted and all the lights turned off and back on. The headlights turned off, but they did not come back on no matter what.
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2002 F-150 4.2L. About a year ago, it threw the P0171 and 0174 codes up. After replacing all the simple stuff, I bit the bullet and replaced the lower intake gasket as well as the upper intake gaskets. Buttoned it all up, reset the codes and we were back in business. No issues, truck ran good. About 6-8 months later, the check engine light came back on, I check it and it was that pesky set of codes again, 0171 and 0174.
It still ran fine, but the codes were there, so I just drove it for a while (it's a company truck that doesn't get driven that much).
A couple of weeks ago while driving it, it acted very sluggish. You could mash the accelerator and it would just very slowly run up the speed. It never hesitated or missed, it just got very very sluggish. Checked the codes, no additional codes.
Then it began to stumble when you mashed the gas.
I put new plugs (old one's looked great, other than a huge gap), new wires, new coil pack and started it. Pushed the gas pedal, it just dies.
I look for obvious vacuum leaks and replace a couple of elbows for the PCV and it seems to run a little better. Enough so that I can drive it, but still not running right.
I ordered all the intake gaskets and new isolator bolts and spend Saturday pulling that apart. I didn't do the lower intake because the upper intake gaskets looked so good, I just don't believe this is a intake gasket problem. None the less, I installed the new gaskets on the plenum and upper intake, new isolator bolts, replaced a couple pieces of vacuum hose that looked cracked, started it back up, it ran as smooth as silk.
Convinced I had it fixed, I went for a test drive. Idling, it is as smooth as you could ask for. Pull up to a stop sign, wait, step on the gas and it chokes. Just stumbles and you can hear it almost backfiring and pushing air back through the system.
I've put new PCV, new EGR, new vacuum lines in several places, new upper intake gaskets, new plenum gaskets, new isolator bolts, and even new o-rings on the injectors, and I'm still getting the 0171 and 0174 codes.
With the diagnostics on, I can see voltage varying on all O2 sensors, so I assume they are working (none of them are reading 0 volts). It doesn't throw any other code up, other than the 0171 and 0174.
At this point I feel like I'm replaced every single thing ever mentioned in any 0171 and 0174 thread on the internet. Where to go next? 1 more point, if you very slowly push the gas, it runs fine, but any pressure on it, it bogs down and just stumbles.
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I have a ford f150 supercab XLT with the 4.6L triton. It starts and idles absolutely fine but when i push the gas to fast(when in park) it bogs down. I just changed the fuel filter aslo...No change.
If I floor it it Bogs then goes up to about 3000rpm (about halfway) and has trouble moving over that RPM or halfway. like theres a restriction of some sort.
If I gradually push the gas, it will go up in rpms and i can get it to about 2000 rpms then I can tack the rpm gauge out if I wanted. but never do.
Also when driving, it seems as if its lacking power..and just to add it does all this stuff while in gear also..
When running It smells of an exhaust leak. but I cant find one. And I cant smell it in the cab.
So there it is. If I think of anything else, or do anything. I will keep posting.
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So I just bought a 2001 F-150. It has the 4.6 v8 it's a 4x4 automatic. Sometimes i'll go to start it in park but nothing will happen. But if I put it in neutral. It'll start right up.
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I have a 2001 ford F150 with a 5.4 2WD, with a starting problem. Last Friday I went to leave work the truck cranked but did not start, turned the key off and tried again same thing, on the third try it started. Drove it home 30 miles with one stop on the way, restarted just fine. At home in the driveway I restarted it 5 times without a problem so I was thinking it was just a glitch. Did not drive the truck all weekend thinking the problem was fixed.
Monday morning leave for work and everything was fine, went to start the truck in the afternoon and the same problem as listed above (3 or 4 tries and it started). It home again in the driveway restarts every time. I do not have any check engine light on but I thought I would still plug in my code reader NO CODE. Where to start troubling shooting this problem?
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I have 2001 F-150 with 4.6L. Truck runs fine until under load and runs fine until I slow down to a stop sign. Once truck sits for a few moments it fires up again and will run for a short while then will do it again. Each time i let it sit for a few minutes, it will start again.
I pull a small travel trailer and seems to happen more frequently when pulling or climbing hill, but not under full power, just when slowing down. Could this be cause of catalytic converters? MAF sensor, or fuel starving.
Check engine light is on, will codes identify if it is a plugged cat?
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I have a 2001 f150, 5.4triton, 4x4 supercrew. I'm having trouble getting the truck started. About a month ago is when I first started having trouble with it, and it's happened more frequently until now it just won't crank up at all. The engine is turning over, but it it just won't fire. When it starts, it runs and drives fine, no cut off or rough idles. I replaced the cam sensor today (figured it'd be worth a shot for 20 bucks) but that wasn't it.
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