Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - Truck Started Jumping Real Bad And Almost Died / Oil On Sparkplugs
Jun 20, 2013
2001 F150, about 3 weeks ago I drove through standing water that was probably about 2 feet deep, as soon as I did that the truck started jumping real bad and almost died. I drove it around for a little while and it started to run better. After that it started to feel like it was misfiring badly. Between 40 -50 mph on the highway just giving it gas a little the jumping was pretty bad.
I decided to change out the plugs, thought maybe water got onto them and this was causing the issue, this was my first time changing the plugs in the truck and it was not nearly as bad as it could have been! I was able to do all of the plugs except number 7. The fuel injection line is right on top of that plug and I did not want to remove it!
After changing the 7 plugs the truck is running better now, I have not yet felt the jumping that was happening, my problem is that on the 4 plugs on the passenger side all 4 looked to be covered in oil. My question is does this mean my head gasket is blown and how long do I have before I am going to have to put alot of money into this truck to fix this issue?
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I have a 2008 Kia Rio, 4 Cyl 1.6L, and recently the check engine light came on and the car started running real rough after getting the timing belt replaced at firestone. I took it back to Firestone and they said that 2 of the cylinders where misfiring and i need to replace the ignition coils and the corresponding spark plugs, but that i also want to get a catalytic converter cleaning or flush or something like that because of the unburnt gas that was running into the converter. Is this true? They want to charge me another 100.00 for the cleaning on top of the 300.00 to replace the 2 ignition coils and spark plugs, should i get this done or can i clean it out myself?
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1999 Ford F-150 V8 5.4L... The other day I was attempting to fix my 4wd. I discovered that the vacuum tube by the 4wd solenoid had become disconnected. I reconnected it and in an effort to see if my fix was successful, I drove my truck up one of the canyons nearby. I got to an area full of loose rock and popped my truck into 4wd. As soon as I began to drive, the truck started idling very rough and died. I attempted to restart it for the next few minutes unsuccessfully. I got it started once and it continued to idle rough for a few seconds and died. I have not been able to start it since. It turns over but will not crank. It is not throwing any error codes. What I have checked so far:
Spark plugs are working.
When turning the ignition into the ON position, I am able to hear the fuel pump working.
I have not seen any cracks in the vacuum hose.
All the fuses are still okay.
What the culprit may be?
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I have a F150 2001 6cyl. Other day was doing 75 on freeway and lost all power. I replaced fuel filter, and pump is humming good (was replaced 4 years ago) checked the Inertia Switch and checked all relays, but truck still wont fire. I checked spark first and that's good.
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So my 98 f150 xlt 4.6 is having a issue where the truck is jumping from 1500 rpm to about 2500 - 2600 rpm. You know sitting there trying to get up to speed. then all the sudden i look down and its at 1500 rpm. but still not really going anywhere. So i give it a little more throttle or gas and it jumps from 1500 to about 2500. Its been like this for a month but i thought it was crap fuel. What is the cause or maybe a solution?
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On my way home late at night, my tachometer started jumping a little, and the engine was rough. Then after another minute the lights dimmed and the engine died. It wouldn't start again. The next morning, it started right up, and it seemed fine. Drove it to the mechanic, he took it for a drive on the freeway, then after he got off the freeway it died again and had to be towed. The error code on the computer is P0326- Knock Sensor. I had the same sensor activated a couple of years ago, and my awesome mechanic (we have since moved far away, so I don't have access to the same guy) gave the engine a tune-up and replace the spark plugs and everything was fine (well, for two years). The car has been idling rough, and the intake manifold may be warped. Could the intake manifold cause this? Distributor?
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First of it's a 2003 with the 4.6. I replaced a bad alternator a couple months ago and all was fine. On the way home today the radio volume went quiet and all the dash gauges were dead. Truck died and wouldn't even try to start, no starter clicking or anything. A couple times the gauges did the "sweep" but still no start, not even a starter click. Barely even operated the hazard lights. Towed it home and hooked up the jumper cables to my 7.3 Excursion. Truck started right up and I left if hooked up for a couple minutes hoping to get enough charge in the battery to get it in the garage.
Unhooked the jumper cables, got in the truck and noticed the voltage gauge was reading nothing, tried to move it and it died. Hooked the jumper cables back up and let the Excursion charge it for about 5 minutes. Started, drove it to the garage (100ft) and backed it in. Noticed the voltage gauge was where it should be. Turned it off and back to run (didn't start) and the voltage gauge was reading good and it started right up.
Now, it doesn't appear that the battery or alternator is bad. Is there something else I should be looking at? I can take the alternator off and have it checked but don't want to go through the work if not needed to chase a ghost. Advance auto Tough One alternator BTW.
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My 2004 F-150 Heritage with the 4.6 was running great until yesterday. Went in the store and left it idling, when I came back out it had died. First time it has ever done this. I started it and it started right up but misses bad. Checked it out and found all 4 cylinders on the drivers side are dead. The check engine light is on and the overdrive off light on the shifter is on. It will start right up and everything else is fine, oil pressure, coolant, etc.
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I have an 03 with a 6.0 diesel, going down the road and started losing power and then died. Won't start, and I don't have a scan gauge. Several sources said ipr valve, and from videos on youtube I thought may be a good place to start. I bought a socket and pulled the valve, to check the screen. There is no screen whatsoever on the ipr. The oils clean, as I had changed it about 200 miles ago, and I ran a magnet in the hole looking for a screen, couldn't find anything so I used my fluid pump in the hole. No trash, screen or anything. Do some ipr valves not have screens? What would be my next step??
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My 2000 f150 with a 4.6 and just about 200,000 miles stumbled for a minute then died, no engine light came on. It wanted to restart and almost did a couple time's but no go. which leads me to believe it has spark. after about a 30min cool down it started and ran fine like nothing ever happened. Got me home. then the next day same thing died and started after it cooled. Has done this a few time's.
I had put a cheap O'riely fuel pump in it a couple years ago. but i hear if you run your gas tank low on gas a lot (which I do) the pump can get hot and you can toast it. Does the fuel pump is the issue or could i have another problem. And BTW in the past year I have cleaned the EGR port's on the throttle body, put a new egr valve, and fuel filter. And i checked the fuel pressure to had 40...
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I came home from work truck was running decent got up in the morning to start it up. Tried to start up was real rumbly and died got the same twice then went to just cranking over not getting anything else tried spraying some starter fluid in air and it would try so assuming its firing abd possibly gas related ...
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My Truck : 1999 Ford F-150 Extended Cab 4x4 5.4L V8
So the other day I was driving the truck and it just dies on me. Tried starting but it just cranked and cranked. Got it pulled over to a parking lot and then tried to start and I got it to run again. Died a couple mins later uo the road and it will not start at all anymore. I got it towed to my driveway and I've started diagnosing some things.
I dropped the tank thinking it was a pump I replaced awhile back. The pump wasn't running but jumped to conclusions and took it back to the auto parts store. They bench tested and it works fine. I checked for voltage at the pump connector. NOTHING. So I'm not getting power to Fuel pump. Then I checked the fuse and relay for the fuel pump. Everything was okay.
I did some research and decided to check for spark. NO SPARK. Another thing I noticed the other day was that the odometer is displaying all dashes. So I'm really unsure on what to really troubleshoot. I am going back to the truck tomorrow to check a few other things. I'm not sure if the Theft light is blinking or not so I will check that tomorrow and get back to you.
What to check? Any other relays or fuses besides the fuel pump? What about any modules to check like PCM, GEM, etc. Or I've heard the crankshaft sensor could be an issue.
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I have a 99 5.4 f-150 stepside 2x4 and I was driving the other day when the engine threw a sparkplug. It stripped the threads inside the head and I had to re-thread it and put a new plug in.
A friend told me it shot out because of the aluminum heads? That it reacted with the steel of the sparkplug. Is this true? Or is it just because the engine is old? (I have 256,000 miles on it)
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1997 F150... Truck has slowly started getting worse and worse performance. About 3 weeks ago the truck started rattling from the exhaust, Towing my trailer the other day, the truck had NO power, I thought it was the plugs, so I replaced them.
Now the rattle is worse (no lose heat shields). I am blowing the little tubes off the drivers side exhaust manifold, the ones that go to the DPFE sensor.
Did I mention, that the truck has no power, sluggish, now I am dumping hot exhaust fumes into the engine compartment. Still got the rattle underneath.
I think the cat is plugged up on the drivers side. (which probably explains all my symptoms)
Any other reason for the rattle literally coming from the drivers side cat and the little tubes being blown off?
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Sometimes the truck is hard to get started and to keep running, Once it warms up it will run fine. The next time it is started it will start fine but when you are going down the road if I try to accelerate it will start backfiring and not pick up any speed. I am getting a lean code on both banks. I have changed the IAC, the throttle position sensor and mass air flow sensor. 2002 F150 with 6 cyl
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I am having problems with my 97 F150 6cyl. A couple of months ago, I noticed the truck after sitting for a few days without being started would not crank. After some trial and error, I found that turning the ignition switch on and off several times did the trick and the truck would crank right up. I was thinking this might be a fuel pump or fuel filter issue but, I'm not sure.
A couple of days ago I was going to drive the truck and did the ignition switch deal as usual and the truck cranked up but, there shortly after while just idling the motor died. I have tried and tried to crank it and it want start back. After thinking on it, I don't know if this is a fuel problem or not, or maybe even the ignition box.
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I have a 2001 F150 4.6L auto. This truck suddenly started running rough. Cleared all codes and re-scanned after starting truck. The codes are as follows; P0135, P0155, P0443, P0740, P0743, P0758, P1451, P1460, P1747, and P1760.
My question is; is it normal to have this many DTCs come up at once? Could my PCM be faulty causing this problem? Can you swap a pcm from the same year truck with the same options without reprogramming?
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I've got a 97 f150 4.6 that has randomly started missing over the last month. It has started to get more frequent and codes are showing a misfire on both cylinder 1 and 8. Both of these cylinders run off the same coil pack. I'm thinking its the coil? The plugs and wires, motocraft, have about 3k on them and the truck runs great otherwise. I just don't know how common a coil would cause this or if they would act intermittent like this.
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I bought a 01 F150 with the 5.4 motor in it not much over a year ago. The truck needed quite a few things but the price was right. I have been dreading fixing one issue I knew about when I bought the truck. I figured I would ask here before contemplating taking my 12 year old truck to ford.
I have done quite a bit of reading about the airbag codes and in some cases people suggested the passenger switch led can burn out causing the light to occur. Here's what I know,
The truck has not been in a accident. I bought it from the owners son who only knew where to put gas in the truck. The father took care of the truck and he assured me it was not accident related for what it's worth.
Upon start up there are no flashes of the airbag light. From the time the key is turned ign. on to the time I shut the truck off it is a solid light. Early this spring I soldered a new led in the passenger on/ off switch with no change. I wonder if the switch is bad but I did not see a proper way to test it.
A airbag light code reader would seem to possibility but I have not seen any auto-part stores that borrow that type and my obd2 scanner cannot pull those codes. Where to start with troubleshooting?
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I have a 2000 f150 4x2 5.4 168k... Check engine came on,started shaking, weather was really cold. RPM would be a little high then low then back up. Especially when I turned on heater. Felt like truck would die but never does nor does it have issue starting.
So far, I have replaced two oxygen sensors inside engine,all coils, spark plugs, fuel filter, had injectors cleaned, intake cleaned. Truck runs better but, light came on a day later again. I can feel the tiniest of shaking going on and, cold mornings still make RPMS a little unstable. I was driving truck on highway at about 60 mph when a slight tug was felt and Truck check engine came on. I feel truck heavy, once it warms up completely, a little lighter.
Codes came up at auto zone as P1151
But I'm running out of options and frankly, money to fix this truck.
Checked the MAF and looked okay.
I'm with minimal skills.
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I recently changed the heater core on my 99 F-150 which meant i had to remove the dash. I got everything back together turned the key to start it and nothing it wouldn't start it wont even turn over. All the electronics come on like normal it just wont start. I have chased every wire every connection into madness. It has an aftermarket remote start someone said that would have bypassed the PATS but i dont know about that the theft light just started blinking.
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