I Have A 2001 F 150 And I Have Just Noticed That On Cold Morning When The Temperature Is Below 35 That My Transmission Takes A While To Shift Into High. Sometime I Am Two To Three Miles Down The Road Before It Will Shift Into The Last High Gear. Is This Normal Or Should I Have This Checked Out? I Have 53,000 Miles On This Truck And Do I Need To Have The Fluil Changed An Serviced.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2001 ford f150 4x4 xlt and it seems to be shaking violently in first gear when I try to release the clutch slowly. The person i bought it from said he had a new clutch put in this year So i don't think its the clutch. What could be the cause of it before I take it in to be checked.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 ford f150 v6 no 4x4 has wont shift from 2nd to 3rd, shifts fine from 1st to 2nd, after that tho there's nothing. What to do or what it could b?
View 1 RepliesI was out driving in my 2003 F150. The transmission Slipped on a shift. I noticed the OD light is blinking. Transmission went into OD and drove fine. Pulled codes P0713 and P0712 transmission fluid temperature sensor. Made it home. An hour later tried to back out and now sounds like a grinding or rubbing sound. But it sounds like the sound is coming from the rear end. I am lost.
2003 F150 4.6L SuperCab....
I have a 2001 Ford F-150 5.4L Supercrew that won't seem to shift out of 1st gear. This morning coming out of stop light on the way to work, the truck seemed to jerk when it was supposed to shift into 2nd gear. I was told by a friend that the speed sensor may be it?
So I took the truck around the block just so I can get a feel for what is going on. So the truck shifts into 2nd, but not past that. It seems that around 30mph the RPM's go up jump up quickly to 2k+ and no shift or increase in speed. I was reading up a bit on it and came across the possibility of a TPS?
I just bought a f150 2001 5.4L crew cab. It has the O/D switch in the gear shift lever and the black plastic handle is broke. I found a complete replacement lever on ebay but cannot find any tutorials on how to replace this.
View 8 RepliesThe Speed Needle works fine. But...the Odometer part quit some time ago. I can't tell what my fuel Mileage is now. How to troubleshoot this problem?
Things that might affect this problem; Transmission skids loudly when going in and out of 4-OD. It could be the Torque converter clutch?
The Gear shift lever is sloppy. Doesn't fill me with Confidence.
Brake fluid warning light is on most of the time. Fluid level is up hi though. Driver door mirror control switch don't work in one direction Who on this Forum has a Switch for me?
My camry has been great up until the last week. The weather has gotten extremely cold here and when I start driving in the morning or from any cold starts the transmission doesn't shift out of second gear. After I drive it a mile or so and slow almost to a stop it will shift normally until I park it.
It has 125000 miles on it and I hope this isn't a serious problem because it is a great car and has been well taken care of. Looks brand new on the inside and out and I've never had any problems until now.
Transmission lost 3rd and 4th gears so I pulled it and found the direct drum burnt up, got new drum and changed all seals, clutches, steel plates, aftermarket cooler and put a sure cure kit in it.
Truck drove great until it blew the front seal out 250 miles later, took it to a shop since I was away from home and he said the clutches got hot so he completely rebuilt it. Truck made it 150 miles and lost 3rd and 4th again. He replaced all the solenoids also.
Transmission shop rebuilt it again and it made it 80 miles and now it will not move at all. We replaced the neutral switch, shift cable, and shifter handle on the last rebuild because he thought it was hanging between neutral and drive.
What else could be making this transmission keep going out? Could it be a bad case, bad valve body or what? We are at a total loss on what keeps burning it up.
I've got a strange problem on my '01 F-150 4.6L 4X4. When the outside temperature gets below 40-45 degrees the fuel pump won't always run when trying to start the truck. You can cycle the key switch on/off 8-10 times and the fuel pump will run. The engine will then start and run fine. You probably have to use this procedure 80% of the time. It started this last winter. I replaced the fuel pump relay in the power distribution box under the hood but that did not work. When the outside temp warms up the problem goes away.
View 10 RepliesSo the heater on my 2001 f150 will only blow through cold air. I thought that I may have a heater core clog so I back flushed it with water until it was coming through clean and unrestricted but that didn't solve the problem.
Now, some things to note are a potential coolant leak. I can't seem to find one but I filled up the antifreeze about two months ago and when I checked it the other day it was more or less empty. I've filled it up again and I will monitor it for the next couple of days.
Another thing to mention is that no matter what setting I have the heater on (ie 'panel' or 'defrost') I get cold air blowing at the passenger side's feet. Is this indicative of a hose leak or something?
Also worth noting is that the intake hose to the heater core gets hot after driving but the outtake stays cool. This is why I originally thought I had a core clog.
Should I be checking my blend door? If so how to I access it?
For the first mile or so on cold mornings, by transmission shifts slowly - sort of a second or two delay until the car warms up. Is this normal?
View 3 RepliesI found no heat last week in my 01 F150. The AC was cold but no blower. The heat was there but no blower. I replaced the blower motor resistor. Result: i believe a FEW of the speeds worked when turning the fan speed switch...but was intermittent. It would blow L, M, H, then nothing. I jiggled the know on the dash mounted switch and heard it on/off, on/off the motor as I jiggled. I DID notice that when I disco'd the connector off the resistor the HIGH speed worked. Is the switch on the dash perhaps crusty ? Or should I be looknig at the motor itself.
View 4 RepliesHave a 2001 F150 FX4x4 and since the weather changed and started having days below 40 the truck has started running rough for about the first 15-20 miles. When you first start it starts like normal for first 3-5 min and then it starts loping real bad like it has a cam in it!
View 5 Replies01 F-150 7700 ed.
I have a 4R100 Tranny with 139K miles. It has been rebuilt. Ever since the rebuild (over 10 yrs ago), if I park the truck for a week or so or more, I will end up with a decent size puddle of trans fluid underneath the truck. I took it back to the shop that did the rebuild a couple times, but they could never find anything. It leaks enough to where my fluid level drops enough to cause the transmission to slip in a U-turn because the pickup tube becomes uncovered. I have a couple theories, but am wanting to hear from the collective.
Theory #1 When I park it on my slightly sloped driveway I don't regularly use the parking brake, so it rests on the gears, which eventually forces fluid out an overflow or breather tube.
Theory #2 (a very thin one) due to pressure changes associated with the weather, fluid is somehow siphoned out a breather tube due to some blockage internally in the tranny to where it's not equalizing with the outside air and has a high pressure within... ( i kinda laugh at myself for this one, but I am at a loss over the source of this)
01 F-150 7700 ed. I have a 4R100 Tranny with a 139K miles. It has been rebuilt. Ever since the rebuild (over 10 yrs ago), if I park the truck for a week or so or more, I will end up with a decent size puddle of trans fluid underneath the truck. I took it back to the shop that did the rebuild a couple times, but they could never find anything. It leaks enough to where my fluid level drops enough to cause the transmission to slip in a U-turn because the pickup tube becomes uncovered. I have a couple theories, but am wanting to hear from the collective.
Theory #1 When I park it on my slightly sloped driveway I don't regularly use the parking brake, so it rests on the gears, which eventually forces fluid out an overflow or breather tube.
Theory #2 (a very thin one) due to pressure changes associated with the weather, fluid is somehow siphoned out a breather tube due to some blockage internally in the tranny to where it's not equalizing with the outside air and has a high pressure within...
I just installed a cold air intake on my 01 f150 with a 5.4 and as soon as i started it after the install there is a loud humming coming from the intake but with some throttle it goes away. ive looked around on some of the other threads that suggest the iac valve usually causes this humming noise but why would it go bad with the install?? also i broke iac breather trying to remove it from the old hose to install with the new hose so i just connected the new hose directly to the inlet behind the intake until i can get another one to replace it. could this be causing the humming as well??
View 14 RepliesThe problem started with a front seal leak a few months ago which I had no choice but to continue driving with because of low funds. I don't drive much so a couple of quarts of ATF was usually enough to get me out and about for what little driving I had to do. I know.. a front seal is cheap, but I'm partially disabled and unable to work on anything that is not under the hood.
I finally scraped up enough money to hire a friend to replace the seal, but he had a life crisis before completing the work, so I had to get another friend to reinstall the trany... still had the leak, but I could get around by adding ATF as before.
So we tried again... dropped everything and put another new seal on. This stopped the leak, but we got some grinding/squealing noises and could not get the trany to engage any gear.
From reading forum posts and other sources, we decided to replace the TC which we just completed this evening. We got some more of the grinding / squealing noise like before, except that it only occurred the first time we tried cranking the engine, the 2nd time we got no noises, but again no gears engaging.
What to check/replace next assuming there is something we can look at other than a total trany rebuild or replacement. I personally find it hard to believe we could have gone from a tolerably functional trany to scrap metal just replacing a seal and the TC. Its gotta be something simple we overlooked !!
2001 Super Crew
2x2 4r70w transmission
417k miles
4.6l
Transmission shifting hard when under strain. My truck has 417k miles and the transmission is shifting a little hard when it is under strain. For example going up hills when in cruise and such forth, no problems otherwise.
My question is kinda weird: Since the fluid has never been changed or added to for that matter (fluid level is correct) , should I change it now or just ride it out? It is still my primary vehicle and runs perfectly!
I have been blessed with this truck since I bought it new
No engine work
Changed DPFE a couple of times
Cleaned throttle body a couple of times
Couple of pairs of shocks
one O2 sensor
alternator
I know its a weird question but could putting new fluid in at this time make more problems?
2 questions regarding our 2001 F150 Supercrew. My 2 questions are:
My 2001 Ford F150 Supercrew (5.4L, 230,000 miles)has the check engine light on with the code reader telling me that it is the P0174. The truck would run rough when cold (usually in the mornings) and sometimes it would get close to stalling out when coming to a stop light. So we would quickly put it in park and give it some gas to rev it up a bit. After the truck gets warmed up, it runs great with no hint of the rough idle. Since this all started I have changed out the PCV valve and replaced the PCV hose (including the elbow). I have also replaced the Idle Air Control unit but that didn't really make a difference.
We then experienced a cylinder #4 misfire which we resolved by changing out the cop with a new Motorcraft unit. The misfire went away but we still had the problem of running rough at idle to the point of stalling out at stops when the engine is cold. A few weeks ago we cleaned the MAF sensor and that seemed to work. The truck doesn't run as rough now (when cold) at stop-lights, but occasionally it will still have the loping idle. We cleared the check engine code and it stayed off for about a week before returning.
I don't know what else to check other than trying to see if there is some type of vacuum leak, but I don't have access to a smoke machine nor would I know how or where to hook one up. Removing and cleaning the throttle body would work? What could be causing the trouble, or what I should do to further isolate or troubleshoot the problem? I saw a you-tube video on the F150 intake manifold gasket possibly being the problem and although I hope that isn't the trouble with my truck, if it is then I will have to deal with it. We need the truck to get to work and the car is now due for a registration renewal, but we can't get a California smog certificate with the check engine light on.
2007 GS 350 AWD in power mode, 22,000 actual miles on the car.
Pavement - dry
When going slowly over a neighborhood speed bump after about 2 minutes of low speed engine operation (engine still cold), the transmission seems to disengage, spinning in neutral for about one second, then it engages.
This doesn't happen when the engine is warm. Is this normal? Is it a problem?