This is a truck at work, I had my student workers put in a new blinker switch, and when they were done it won't start anymore. The "theft" light is flashing on the dash, so I guess the PATS system thinks it was tampered with. How could you trigger this by changing the blinker switch? Does this have to be reset by a dealer?
View 3 RepliesI also have a problem with my left blinker and my break lights. My right blinker works just fine, but my left blinker and break lights will not come on unless I pull the blinker switch forward a bit- as if I'm going to turn my brights on.
View 14 RepliesWell...I had the ECM replaced on my 2002 F150. She ran great for about 60 miles. I had trouble with the key right off at the dealer - it wouldn't start, so I flipped the key over, and it started. Drove about 35 miles, and had starting issues a couple of times, but minor, and over quickly. Came home, and did not drive it for a week. Got in this morning, and it WOULD NOT START. Turned over normal, but won't start. Now I am stuck 15 miles from the dealer who programmed it, and no way to get it there. Anything that I can do to get it started to make the trip?
View 7 RepliesI just had the ignition switch replaced on my 2001 Toyota Sequioa. Now my blinkers work but will not shut off after I complete the turn. Additionally, the blinker "stick" is very hard to move in either direction. I plan to take my car back to the dealer and politely request this blinker repair be warranty work.
View 1 Repliesi just got an F150 supercrew 5.4L 4x4. has approximately 180k miles but motor and tranny run clean and smooth. issue i am having is the OD light flashes but no other service light is on. i had code read and said it was a Differential Feedback Pressure Sensor (DFPS). Replaced the sensor and hoses but still the light is flashing. i have not changed EGR as of yet due to money but was wondering if i could maybe get pointed in the right direction. the Tranny does not seem to be operating improperly except at low speeds it tends to shift between OD and 3rd on occasion.
View 1 RepliesSunday my truck began to sputter at idol while at a light and continued when parked. My first assumption was another coil pack has gone out. Went to autoparts store to get a new one and run the codes to tell me which cylinder it was. Code P0357 came up referring to cylinder G which seemed odd to me as it usually gives me a number rather than a letter. Bought the coil pack and went home to swap it out. Replaced the coil and with no change in the idol I googled the code. I have now replaced the coil, inspected the plug and wires around the plug and now I am at a loss of what to do next.
There is only a rough idol, no hesitation when driving or accelerating. Along with that, I've notice that if I'm going between 30-50 and take my foot off the gas it doesn't slow down, it's as though the cruise control is on... After a few miles on the highway and come to a stop, the RPMs are around 1k for about 30 seconds then drops to almost stall before catching itself and begins to sputter.
Yesterday I decided to tune up my 2003 5.4 for the 1st time at 82k miles. I replaced all 8 coils with MSD coils & motorcraft plugs. After doing so I went to turn over the ignition & got 1 single click, motor wouldn't even turn over. Battery is 3 months. Truck ran just fine prior to tune up other than the slight misfire I was starting to get.
When I was working on the passenger side I did disconnect the big bracket that had the multiple wire harness on the fire wall underneath the starter solenoid to gain access to the rear plug/coil. Where to start troubleshooting? I checked the fuses under the hood & dash but nothing looked blown.
On a side note I remember when I was putting everything away I tried to lock the truck with the Ford factory transmitter & it wouldn't lock?! I had to open the door & press the power lock button to lock the doors.
I have a 2003 f150 that has a history of misfiring on one side. It started with a misfire on #1, then #4, and finally #2. I replaced all 8 plugs last year and each COP as it gave the misfire code over the course of the last 3 years. My latest run in was with #2, and I replaced the COP today and took it for a test drive. It was running pretty rough at idle, which I assumed was from disconnecting the battery, but then the stuttering started but it felt a little different than the standard misfire that usually didnt pop up until 40-50mph.
This stutter was more constant, and it also let up when I would coast. I only took it for a 4-6mile test drive and toward the end, the "Service Engine Soon" light started blinking and then went off by the time I got home. I parked it and noticed quite a lot of crackling noises that seemed more than normal, but it was a hot day and I was pissed that I didnt fix it so I cant say for certain if it was out of the norm or not, but it seemed louder and more frequent. Then I got to worrying about my cats going bad.
So, my questions are:
Could I have done something wrong when changing the COP?
What can the flashing "Service Engine Soon" light mean? Ive only seen a solid one before.
Should I be worried about the cat going bad since all the issues have been on that one side?
What should I do next?
2001 F-150. I've got a leak around the warning switch and can't seem to find info about replacement. Is the switch and switch retainer screwed into the reservoir or is the outer ring screwed into reservoir and more of a compression type fitting that holds switch in place? Also, after removing and repairing will bleeding be necessary? Looks like everything I'm taking apart is above fluid level after I siphon enough fluid from reservoir to replace fitting.
View 2 RepliesWhen I turn the switch on the front wheels don't engage. I replaced the two vacuum solenoids on the firewall no change. I replaced the actuator motor on the transfer case and everything worked....once. Tried to go around the back of the house thought I was in 4x4 but front wheels not engaging again. buried in mud. I let it set there overnight. Went out earlier started it and put it in 4x4 and it started puling out front wheels engaged. As soon as I gave it a little gas the front wheels became disengaged and it wouldn't go anywhere. I made several more attempts and no luck. I did the vacuum test where you turn the heater on panel and if there's a vacuum leak somewhere the heater blower will default to defrost. It passed this test so I'm assuming there is no leak anywhere. Why it worked right after I replaced the transfer case motor and again only after I got stuck and it set in the mud overnight?
View 2 RepliesOn my 97, just had a new engine installed. Suddenly the Lo presser AC switch died. Now the Start Solenoid (I think) just clicks sometimes. Is this Solenoid on the Firewall the Start Solenoid?
View 6 RepliesI bought this truck and have been working on this problem for two full days. It has been sitting for over a year and was told it needed spark plugs and a battery. I replaced both items and it turned over, would start with starting fluid but only briefly. I disconnected the fuel line on the tank side of the filter and had my son turn the key on several times, no fuel. I reconnected the line and tested voltage at the tank (Pink and blue (+) and black (-). No voltage.
I went to the fuse box under the hood and have good 15A fuse with 12.5V there with the key on. The relay also makes 3 audible clicks when I turn the key on. I tested the inertia switch green/yellow wire; 6.8V grounded to the truck or to the small brown wire. I looked at the condition of the green/yellow wire up and into the harness and it did not appear damaged. Where this green/yellow wire travels to? I had read that it goes to the fuse box inside but did not see a listing for this in the manual.
1999 F250LD 5.4L Auto 4X4 142k
My emergency fuel shut off switch triggers when my truck sits. Never on the road. Why would it do this?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 f150 4x4 with the 4.6 Triton motor, the front axle is not pulling in when I switch the selector on the dash, I know the transfer case is switching so that part is ok. I know there are 2 solenoids on the fire wall, my question is which one is which ? every store I call says one has the nub at 9 o' clock and one at 6 o' clock which one of these does the front axle, don't want to order the wrong one ? I checked the vacuum and the blue line going to the axle always has vacuum and as I read the diagram the blue line is 2 wd and the red line is 4 wd so is the 2wd solenoid stuck and preventing the 4wd one from pulling in or is the 4wd one bad ?
View 4 RepliesI have a 98 f150 4x4, 4.6L 150k miles, during start up the blinker indicator lights on the dash illuminated and stayed on, when trying the blinkers they did not work, but if I shut the head lights off the blinkers do work and indicators respond normally. This is the same if I turn the fan blower on, blinkers don't work and indicators stay illuminated. Also I have found that the power windows, and 4wd no longer work. Other functions work such as power mirror, radio etc. all fuses under the dash and under the hood are good, I tried switching some of the relays to see if that changed anything but with no success . took the kick panel off and inspected the grounds and all seem tight. It looks like the main battery ground is just to the body and there is one solid ground from the frame to the body under the cab. all seem tight and don't appear to be corroded. Truck starts and runs great.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 Supercrew Lariat. About a month ago I stopped to fill up with gas and afterwards it would crank but not start. After a few tries the engine would no longer turn over. My battery was 7 years old so I replaced it and the problem went away for about 5 days. Then the same thing, crank but no start. I checked all the fuses & called the local Ford dealer.
After talking with the parts dept. I tried hitting the panic button then the truck started. After talking to parts again I replaced the PATS transceiver. After 3 weeks with no issues the problem came back. This time I locked the doors with the keyless entry remote then unlocked them & the truck started. So I'm wondering what is my problem. Could it be the PATS module or something with the keyless entry module or some other issue.
F-150 Super Crew 5.4 4X4 cranks won't start. what and where do I check first?
View 8 RepliesAbout a month ago, my 2001 f150 supercrew (4x4 5.4L) didn't want to start one morning. This was after a very cold night (15 degree temps). It sounded like it had plenty of juice in the battery (cranked good), just wouldn't start. Later in the day, after it warmed up, still no start. I dug thru here, and someone recommended disconnecting the positive battery cable for a minute then retrying. I did it, and it worked. All was good.
About a week ago, no start in the morning again. Tried the positive cable disconnect, no luck. After several hours, it just seemed to randomly start, and all was well again.
Today, truck started right up in the morning, but later in the afternoon (warm winter day 45 degrees) no start. Tried the positive cable disconnect, no luck. After screwing with the truck for about an hour, I decided to put the fuel pressure gauge on the rail. NO fuel pressure.
Is fuel pressure associated with the PATS, or is this a straight up fuel system problem?
Additional info: My gas tank fell out this summer, (recall on those tank straps), and I had a new tank, pump, straps and lines installed. I had a no crank, no start issue this summer, but that turned out to be the transmission not registering in park. I assume the two issues are unrelated.
So I just bought a 2001 F-150. It has the 4.6 v8 it's a 4x4 automatic. Sometimes i'll go to start it in park but nothing will happen. But if I put it in neutral. It'll start right up.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 ford F150 with a 5.4 2WD, with a starting problem. Last Friday I went to leave work the truck cranked but did not start, turned the key off and tried again same thing, on the third try it started. Drove it home 30 miles with one stop on the way, restarted just fine. At home in the driveway I restarted it 5 times without a problem so I was thinking it was just a glitch. Did not drive the truck all weekend thinking the problem was fixed.
Monday morning leave for work and everything was fine, went to start the truck in the afternoon and the same problem as listed above (3 or 4 tries and it started). It home again in the driveway restarts every time. I do not have any check engine light on but I thought I would still plug in my code reader NO CODE. Where to start troubling shooting this problem?
We have a 1997 f150 with the 4.6 in it originally. The 4.6 was pulled and a 2001 5.4 engine was swapped. I was called to see why it could not run. I did some preliminary tests and suspected the PATS system.
I cannot get the fuel pump to run by jumping the relay and I am assuming all the wiring is proper from the swap.
The 2001 5.4 engine ecu has been transferred over. I run the obd tests and get a bunch of codes but none point to the pats system. The theft light does not prove out or does not flash. I can get it to turn on via my obd scan tool. I have an elm tool.
I do know the 1997 cluster was not changed. The ignition from the 2001 was swapped and have only 1 matching key with it.
When I jumped the fuel pump relay, I produced the code p0232 which tells me the computer saw current in the pump circuit when the PCM has it disabled. Should a swap of this kind also include the pats components ? I also cannot get the fuel pump to run by jumping the relay.
I have the codes :
P01703
P0232
P01747
P0750
P0755
p1451
P1409
P1633