Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - Rattle Noise From Passenger Side Of Engine
Aug 18, 2015
I'm wondering what is going on with my 2001 F-150's 5.4L Triton engine. Recently it's been making this noise that I can best describe as a "rattle" from the passenger side of the engine. It's not a constant rattle, it comes and goes every few seconds.
It sounds like it's either from the valve cover or timing cover, so I was thinking maybe it's the feared Cam Phaser failure, however the noise doesn't seem to match what I've heard from other videos of confirmed Cam Phaser failures.
I've attached a link to a video of the noise that I made. It also has a lifter tap from the opposite side of the engine that may be noticeable in the video. It has been present since I bought the truck two years ago, it hasn't gotten any worse and it isn't what I'm concerned about.
Video link : [URL] ....
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I have a 2001 Screw 4x4 that had a bad valve on the passenger side. I got the head rebuilt and put it all back together. Now it has a pretty bad oil leak at the rear of the engine. I thought it was the valve cover gasket but when I took it off the gasket was right where it's supposed to be. I pulled the starter and it seems to be leaking out of the new head gasket. What could I have done wrong? The thing runs perfect now but it's dripping oil like crazy so I had to have done something wrong. I used an OEM head gasket from the dealer and torqued the new head bolts to 30 ft-lbs and then went another 90 turn twice just like the book said.
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I have a 2002 F150 Lariat Supercrew, and suddenly a bad rattle developed inside the passenger side door. The window still works fine, but I'm afraid it won't much longer. I have taken the panel off, and can reach into one of the supports and mimic the rattle. When you shut the door, it sounds like the glass is going to fall out. I had to replace the motor on the driver's side door a couple of years ago, and I'm hoping to prevent another window sliding down inside the door. How to fix this situation? I haven't been able to feel anything that may have come loose.
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I have a 2001 F-150 Supercab with the V-6. This past weekend it developed some strange noise best described as a rattle or vibration that sounds like it is coming from under the driver's side dash possibly somewhere right behind the instrument cluster. May even sounds a little like a "grinding" noise - like two plastic gears not agreeing with each other, but I don't know of anything under there that could make that noise. I have opened the hood and listened from there with my wife pressing the gas to make the noise start, but can't hear anything from outside the truck.
It is not constant, but starts as soon as I give it a little gas, even before I put it in drive. It's a little worse when it is in drive. I have turned the air on and off, turned the steering wheel, pressed the brake, etc, and it doesn't appear to be related to anything obvious. I have stuck my hand under the dash and can't find anything obviously loose.
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I just purchased a 2001 F-150 XLT and while driving it back to town my brother rolled down the window and now it wont go back up! The drivers side works fine, but the passenger side wont roll up using either side of the switches. I know it isnt the motor because neither side would work. What it might be or how I could fix it?
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I'm trying to find out why my truck has a grinding noise on the passenger side when my truck first starts driving for the first 1/4 mile. It stops after that or when I apply the brakes. Do I have a brake sticking or something more serious?
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Have a 1998 F-150....heard a strange noise coming from the front passenger side of the truck. Parked and turned the wheel and heard something fall off. It appears to be a shield of some sort.
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I have a 1997 F150 (truck in signature). In December my passenger side parking brake cable broke so I replaced both rear cables (front cable appears in good condition).
This past Friday the passenger side brake started making a grinding noise so I pulled the drum to find the self adjuster cable broken and the ratchet jammed between the shoe and the drum. I pulled everything apart and put new shoes (the pin the ratchet pivots on was broken off the rear shoe)and all new adjusting hardware (adjuster screw, ratchet, cable, and cable guide). The rest of the hardware looks in good condition (still paint on the springs and retainers). I got everything put together and took it for a test drive, it had a nice firm brake pedal (it's been a while since this truck has had a firm pedal) and great stopping power.
Took it to work today, and on the way back I stopped to pickup a package from the UPS store. I set the parking brake and put the truck in 1st like I always do. When I got back out to the truck to drive home, I released the parking brake but there was still obvious drag as I drove home (no good place to stop during rush hour), got out of the truck and it reeks of burning brakes. I pulled the driver side drum off (after it cooled), which was rather difficult, and everything looks to be in order except the rear shoe was not touching the post at the top of the backing plate. I checked and the adjuster was still all the way in, so that isn't the issue.
I pulled the parking brake cable out to slack the drum side of it (with the pedal released there is some spring tension from the pedal mechanism) and clamped it with vice grips so the cable was slacked and the shoes were then touching the post, and the drum could be installed and turned relatively easily, I then removed the vice grips and let the spring pull the tension out of the cable and the brake held firmly (requiring considerable effort to turn the drum). Is there anyway to adjust the spring tension on the parking brake cable when the parking brake is released?
Additional notes: when setting the parking brake, the pedal will only go down an inch or 2 before the brakes are locked up tight and the pedal won't move, it used to go down several inches before. also I noticed that the feral on the end of the drivers side cable (that locks into the lever attached to the rear shoe) is deformed, like the cable has too much tension on it. The cables are the correct ones for my wheel base according to Autozone but I'm starting to wonder if they are too short. Spring tension on the parking brake cable (when the brake is not set) causes the parking brake to drag. How do I get the parking brake to stop dragging? ("star" adjusters are new and adjusted all the way in).
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I have a 1990 F-150 w/351 that I knew had a coolant leak at the back of the engine when I bought. It's a tinker around truck, something for me to play with.
I've traced the leak back to a metal tube/pipe that sticks out of the engine compartment just below the AC housing. I cannot find anything in the Haynes manual or a diagram on the intertron that shows what this is and if it should have a hose on it or...?
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2008 F150 4x4 27000 mi There is an intermittent metallic /rattle sound (like marbles or a chain in a can) seems to be coming from front passenger side; sometimes on first acceleration , sometimes after turning a corner, sometimes after hitting a bump. Doesn't last more than a few seconds Had my mechanic friend look at it on hoist and no apparent loose parts in exhaust system or breaks; 1st noticed it last August ( 7000 miles ago) but it subsides and then reappears with no distinct pattern. best guess is a bad wheel bearing but it's never gotten any worse; other guess is transfer case/ chain problem but 4x4 use isn't much and it goes in and out of 4x4 mode with no problems.
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I have a 2001 5.4 V8 with 55K miles and the tow package. On acceleration the engine makes a ticking noise. Engine seems to run fine, no misfire.
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I have a 2001 F150 4x4 4.6L Auto trans. 96,000 miles... I purchased it in Jan with 93,000. About a month ago it started making and occasional knocking noise coming from the engine, this noise was heard at idle in park and in drive. when I revved the motor it would go away but as the idle settle back down you could hear it again. the noise would go away as I was driving and come back with no rhyme or reason, I put a stethoscope on the engine and it seemed loudest under the oil pan. The oil gauge is up between 5/8 to 3/4. Fast forward to now, When I start it I hear a scraping almost grinding noise that resonated thru the cab it has the same intermittent characteristics. I think I am going to remove the serp belt, remove the trans inspection cover next and see what happens. Oh I did put a scan too on it, no codes but did notice 1 long term 02 sensor trim was staying around -.618 if I remember.
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Just like the title says i have been hearing this ringing noise in my 2003 gti vr6 and its driving me nuts. Neither my mechanic or I could find this source of this noise with the stethoscope. It seems to be coming from the passenger side of the engine but strangely only happens when I LITERALLY shake the car or when its idling and revving. The A/C isn't working either if that means anything. First time owner of a VW by the way.
[URL] .....
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Just a couple weeks ago this annoying rattle started in passenger dashboard.
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I've got two rattles .....
First is an actual rattle noise coming from what seems like the passenger side a pillar.
Second is more of a buzzing noise coming directly behind the radio at between 3k-4500
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I have an 2005 VW Touareg. I purchased it 1 month ago with 8919 miles on it. I love the thing! However I have a rattle coming from the part that is below the passenger dash. The good thing is it only rattles when i hit a big bump, however when u pay 30k + this is the last thing you want to hear. See Pic. How to remove this black panel so i may fix it? Dealer was no luck the typical "I didn't hear any rattles" ....
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Recently bought 2002 Camry 2.4 .... Engine has a cold start rattle in the top passenger side. The noise stops after the engine heats up in about 10 minutes. I've changed the intake manifold.... Did not work. Looking for the OCV VALVE FILTER but cannot find it ....
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I have a 2000 Ford F150 4x4 extended cab the passenger side head light is very dim try and turn on high beams and it does not react while on low beam the high beam indicator in the cab is on. Where can I look or what is the common problem for this.
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I have 2010 LS460L with 76K miles and I hear rattle noise in from driver and passenger side. I took it to the Lexus service center and they said it's the air suspension problem and need to replace this part and would cost about $2K per suspension.
My question is is there anyway I could convert this air suspension to standard coil or gas shocks from Air suspension??
I will be using this for a Limo in NYC and the road conditions are terrible and air suspension is not going to last that long and they are expensive.
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I have a 98 f-150 4.6L 5spd that has a weird rattling noise coming from what sounds like the engine. The noise will only happen when the truck is in gear and under a load. It will not happen if I keep the RPM's low, unless I am going up a hill. When I rev the truck in neutral, the rattling noise isn't there. Also when I'm driving and hear the ratling noise it will go away when i push the clutch in(which im guessing takes the load off) but will come back when i let out on the clutch. Seems to happen most when I'm in gear and trying to accelerate.
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2003 F150 5.4 4x4 supercrew ,76k miles
Recently the passenger side exhaust manifold cracked on my truck. I bought this truck about two years ago with 58k on it and currently have 76k miles. I remember getting the carfax report and being relieved to see that it had exhaust manifold replaced in July of 2014 at 49K miles along with a new EGR tube. I called the shop that worked on the truck to see if he could confirm that both manifolds were replaced since carfax only said manifold & egr tube. The shop manager confirmed that both manifolds were replaced and he told me that they were most likely manifolds from napa according to the part number.
Now, my question is, what's the best brand to replace the manifolds with? Should I just go with OEM and spend the extra $130 per side? I know the manifolds are a common problem with these trucks but only lasting three years and 27K miles just seems ridiculous to me.
I'm hoping that when I get around to actually doing this that they wont be to bad because of how recently they were replaced. For now I just cleaned the area with a wire wheel and used the inferno metal repair. Seems to have done the job but I don't expect it to last long, just another month or two until I move to a place where I can actually work on my vehicles.
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