last weekend I was cutting wood and put my 2001 F150 into four wheel drive for the first time in a long time. I did it "just in case". Anyway, now my fuel mileage really took a nosedive. Is it possible one of the hubs did not unlock? If so, how can I test? Common problem?? 215,000 and going strong
View 9 RepliesLast weekend I was cutting wood and put my 2001 F150 into four wheel drive for the first time in a long time. I did it "just in case". Anyway, now my fuel mileage really took a nosedive. Is it possible one of the hubs did not unlock? If so, how can I test? Common problem?? 215,000 and going strong!!!
View 8 RepliesOn my new to me '03 Excursion (I've owned it for 1.5 weeks now), I'm starting to get through the 1st level of issues (Wandering - fixed, Speedo/ABS issue - still working on that, changing the rear diff fluid this week, hopefully).
Now, I want to look into why the manually locking hubs won't turn. When I brought it up to the Previous Owner, who was about as mechanically inclined as my Golden Retreiver, he said "these are auto locking hubs. I never turned those things before".
They are frozen in the non-locked position, so I have to pray that I never need to actually manually lock them.
Any lucky experience at un-freezing stuck hubs? I've started the liberal application of PB Blaster process.
As my truck stands it has OEM automatic locking hubs with a selector for auto or lock. So, why would some one buy manual locking hubs and cap off the ESOF vacuum line when the OEM ones perform the same function by being auto or locked?
I hope this makes sense because if I felt I wanted to go to manual style locking hubs, I think I could simply cap off the vacuum line and then switch the hub to lock if I wanted 4x4 because the electric switch inside the truck is actually what engages the transfer case and puts the truck into 4x4.
Is this thinking/theory correct or am I missing something here?
I know this is going to sounds lame, my wife can't turn them, they have cover over it that has to be unscrewed to get at 'em. It would be nice to shift in and out "on the fly" as weather condition change.
Is it a difficult change?
I've got a 2001 f150 XLT and I've checked the Haynes manual and searched Google but I'm having no luck.
I'm trying to locate the sensor for the Automatic Head Lights.
I had a small "spill" on the dash at night and immediately the lights started to blink and click. It fixed itself but sometimes it will do a weird little "click, click noise" change thing. I would like to clean the sensor or ensure it's not partially blocked.
I have a 2001 F150 2 door 2wd 5.4 engine. When I put it in gear the automatic door locks do not activate. The procedure for programming the remote does not work either. It calls for turning the ignition switch on and off 9 times, and the doors should unlock, so that procedure does not work either.
I took it to the dealer to have the BCM reprogrammed, they say there is no BCM in the vehicle. The codes they got says there is a door ajar, and the interior lamp relay DTC. I am not sure what the DTC means, forgot to ask.
The door warning light goes out when the doors are closed, and the interior light goes out. They do not seem to know how the system operates. I bought the wiring diagram.
From what I can see, closed lock switch connects directly to the GEM. The dealer told me there is two switches in the door. There is only one as far as I can determine. Ther are two plugs on the locking mechanism, on is for the remote lock, it works. So the lock closed switch is also working.
Reading this forum, I see several cases where people have changed the GEM, and that did not fix the problem. I can not see any other solution, as the door closed switch connects directly to the GEM, and the door open warning goes out, and the interior light goes out.
I recently purchased a 2003 F350 FX4 Dually with the 7.3L Diesel. It has locking hubs and electric shift in the cab.
I have had locking hubs before that you had to engage to shift into 4 wheel drive and I have had trucks without locking hubs.
My truck didn't come with a manual, so I am looking for instructions for the proper use of this system.
I have a 2001 f150 4x4 with the 4.6 Triton motor, the front axle is not pulling in when I switch the selector on the dash, I know the transfer case is switching so that part is ok. I know there are 2 solenoids on the fire wall, my question is which one is which ? every store I call says one has the nub at 9 o' clock and one at 6 o' clock which one of these does the front axle, don't want to order the wrong one ? I checked the vacuum and the blue line going to the axle always has vacuum and as I read the diagram the blue line is 2 wd and the red line is 4 wd so is the 2wd solenoid stuck and preventing the 4wd one from pulling in or is the 4wd one bad ?
View 4 RepliesSo I was given a 1999 f150 4.6. The transmission was supposedly either new or rebuilt. (I'm going with rebuilt) Driving it for the first time today, I noticed it had very little poor acceleration. When I would get on the gas (to the floor) the rpms would shoot up (3-3.5) but the truck didn't accelerate accordingly. It feels like the power it's getting to the wheels. Driving at highway speed trying to maintain a speed at over 70 the truck wanted to stay at 2500 rpms but if I let off the gas just a touch it would shift up (into overdrive I think) and level out at just below 2000 rpms, but if I accelerated even just barely, it would down shift and go back to 2500. I've also noticed the truck runs 5 mph faster than it reads with stock sized tires. I've check the tans fluid and it is bright red in color and at the appropriate level. I crawled under the truck and noticed the trasfer case mount was wet with fluid (not dripping) and the rear output shaft of the transfer case was also wet. Could this be a transfer case problem?
View 13 Replies97 4.6.. So it would appear that I have the wild goose chase of codes. The major symptoms are rough idle and very poor performance. I started off by cleaning the egr valve and ports. Then I checked the egr valve itself and watched the valve open and close under a vacuum. I was suspecting the DPFE sensor but I wanted to trying something else first. I was under the Impression that if at idle you apply a vacuum to the egr valve it would cause the engine to "stumble and stall". I did this and there was no change in the way the engine was running. So now I'm lost as to where to go from here.
View 3 RepliesAnd the vacuum pump was replaced.
View 7 RepliesThe 2000 X I have has Warn locking hubs on them. Just to be clear, I'd need to switch them to 'lock' then choose either 4-Hi or 4-Low on the dash in order to engage the transfer case, correct?
View 8 RepliesI just recently purchased a 2000 Excursion and had some questions up in another thread. After doing some diagnosing....I have a couple of questions about the auto locking hubs. The problem I have is that even with the vacuum line disconnected from the knuckle and no vacuum...the hubs won't unlock in auto/2wd. I confirmed that the knuckle and the hubs will hold vacuum when I hooked my vacuum pump up to it and it held vacuum (the fitting should be clear as I heard the hub making some sounds). I'm getting ready to pull the hubs to clean and re-grease them. My question is that being they are still locked....will it be any harder to pull them off the spindle and after disassembling them/cleaning them.....when I re-install them....will they be unlocked by default after putting them back on the spline as they have been pulled apart and reassembled?
View 14 RepliesBack in March while still plowing, my auto locking hubs wouldn't stay engaged. After talking to the local Ford service shop they told me that it was moisture in the vaccum lines and that it had frozen. They told me to manually lock the hubs and bring it in to be repaired when I had time. I made a appointment in the middle of May and finally got it in last week. Now the hubs are seized in the locked position and they will not warranty the work or parts because they say it was caused by the salt from our roads. Does this sound right?
View 5 RepliesI got new auto-locking hubs. The updated ones. As I proceeded to replace them, I pulled out old ones and when driver side came out, there was like 1/2 ounce of water that flowed out from where the auto-locking hub would sit. Strange. I had changed out lines, vacuum pump, vacuum solenoid and reservoir. All new and dry. I blasted both sides down with brake cleaner to clean off old grease, let dry and installed new auto hubs. So far so good. Will test the ESOF feature another time. I was wondering where this water would come from? Other side of wheel hubs are dry.
View 2 RepliesMy hubs will not lock when put into 4x4. I disconnected all lines from the solenoid to both hubs and tested them for leaks... All good there. I put a gauge on the lines at both hubs one at a time while the other is still connected and get no reading when switched into 4x4. I checked for vacuum right out of the solenoid, and I get 2inHg when switched into 4x.
The vacuum pump kicks on every time I start the truck, even if I just shut it off and re-start right away. There is no delay when switching my ac/heater controls to different settings or vent locations. So I know there is vacuum. How much vacuum I should be getting out of the solenoid to the hubs?
2004 F350 6.0L....
Ok, So, Im 40 miles from home stuck in ice and snow in a hotel.. (my wife works close by- thought it would be safer than driving in the 10 inches of snow we got 3 days in a row) so, I go to pick her up tonight and I engage 4hi.. I hear the click and the light comes on.. but no clunk of the hubs locking.. I drop it in 4 lo.. it shifts in low.. but the hubs are not locking..
I hear a ticking sound as I drive and when I put it in 2wd it goes away. I turn off the truck, turn the wheel hard both ways .. get out and I can physically turn the drive shaft and I hear the ticking in the hubs. If I read correctly when the truck is off these should be locked?
is it possible the vacuum is not releasing? I also get the groaning when I start up of the air diverter.. that im told is operated by vacuum.. so I am guessing I have a vacuum problem??
I just ordered '00 F250 SC 4x4 SWB XLT with the factory standard manual hubs. The hubs show up on the vehicle order confirmation as code "21M MAN LOCKING HUB". I can't find this code in the ordering guides anywhere but kbb.com shows this code as "Manual hubs delete. Required with 213 shift-on-the-fly". I want the manual hubs. I think ##### is incorrect. For my piece of mind, could someone who has also ordered the factory standard manual hubs verify that the code is indeed 21M. And for those who ordered shift-on-the-fly, could you verify that 21M does NOT show up on your order confirmation...
View 8 RepliesI am considering buying a 2001 Ford F250 Super Duty XLT 4x4 V10 engine tomorrow. I am hesitant because I cant get the 4x4 to engage. It goes into 4x4 low and high and the front driveshaft spins but it wont engage the wheels. One side locking hub locks but the other side the locking hub is cracked off and so I there is no way to turn to lock that side. I will of course replace the Locking Hub ASAP if I buy the rig but my question here is, if one side is locked should one side of the front axle spin, meaning if only one side Locking Hub is locked should that wheel turn and the other not? Both are not turning but as I said the driveshaft is spinning.
I don't know if both sides need to be locked in order for the front wheels to engage while in 4x4 high or low. Or if one side should engage if only one side is locked; the wheel that's locked of course..
2001 Ford F250 XLT Super Duty 4x4
V10 engine...
My 2009 F-350 4x4 has a front wheel option of Auto or Lock ; I think I understand the Auto option but under what circumstances would I lock the hubs and is it safe to leave them in the Lock mode when traveling on the highway?
View 5 Replies