Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - Oil In Spark Plug Wells
Oct 21, 2012
I have an 01 f150 with 5.4 triton. This has been great truck, never really had to do anything to it. It has 195k on it. Week or so ago it started running rough. So I replace the plugs and coils. I noticed some of the plug wells had oil in them. Got done and the truck is running like new.
Not sure where the oil is coming from. Not the piston as the plug was dry on the tip and truck not smoking any. I has began using a quart or so between oil changes. I have always changed it every 3k. Is it just time for new motor. Like I said it is running like new.
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I found a leak today on my 2001 Ford F150 Super Crew, 5.4 engine. In the picture, it was leaking to the right of the spark plug, behind the hose. It was bubbling up from the metal. It hasn't been overheating except when I got home and idled with the AC on. What I'm facing?
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My son has a 2001 F150 with a 4.6L V8 that's blown a sparkplug from # 3 cylinder. The plug looks as if struck by lightning and has a burn groove as deep as a kitchen match stem the full length of the threads.
How difficult is an engine swap/change using another 4.6L? Neither of us have extensive mechanical backgrounds but plenty of aptitude.
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I bought a 2000 lincoln LS from my father-in-law knowing it had some issues. We were incorrectly told that it needed cam shaft sensors, but I had it checked out myself today.
4 (out of 8) cylinders are misfiring. He opened it up and saw that on the right bank 1 of the spark plug wells was filled with oil, and the other 3 the tubes are seeping. He also said 3 of the coils need replaced. Whoever had the car originally replaced 3 coils (they're 3 different part numbers on the coils they used).
I've been researching and the first suggestion is changing the valve cover gaskets and removing the oil to see what problems if any it eliminates.
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I have a 1997 F150 4.6 V8 and as we all know these trucks are notorious for the spark plug blowing out. Although when I bought it I never had an issue until we put motorcraft plugs in. After a couple weeks of having these plugs in the porcelain blew out of the plug with the threads still in the head. The spark plug screws into a threaded insert which then screws into the head. We replaced the plug and nearly a month later the porcelain blew again. Replaced it, same story a week and a half later. Before the motorcraft plugs I had autolites in it, and I never had the slightest spark plug blowout problem. Should I just put an autolite in the cylinder that's blowing them?
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I had a plug blowout last Thursday on the freeway. I wasn't sure of what happened with my truck, it was a shutgun going off. I had to towed to my local Firestone.
My truck is a F-150 4.6 2003 with 206,000 miles.
The short of the story, plug #3 blowout. It trashed the coil and I needed a new plug. They used a Helicoli and I have been reading that they shouldn't have used a Helicoli. They should have used a Time-set.
What's wrong with the Helicoli's? Is this fixed going to last for awhile? They said the helicoli worked well. The truck had 7 NGKs and 1 motorcraft. It has all new motorcrafts now.
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1997 f-150, 4.6, 147K miles. This morning I started the truck and the engine light was on. Felt a miss in the engine. Drove 1 mile and back then checked the wires. Found one not firing. Traced it back to the plug. When I pulled the plug boot off I noticed water in the recess, surrounding the plug. Once I blow out the water, I'll checjk the plug but I would like to know if this is a natural occurrence. I thought the boot would prevent water from filling the recess and sitting there. Or does the water just evaporate when the engine gets hot?
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i just purchased an '01 expedition with the 5.4. I was told #5 spark plug blew out. Upon examination, it appears to be #6, second from the front driver side. Anyway, as I was looking, it just didn't look right. There was a spark plug socket stuck in the well, with the plug still in place. How to get the socket out? I can get an extension on it and it will turn, but it's tight. But I can't pull the socket out.
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Okay so I was getting the misfire in cylinder 3 so I pulled the plug out and it had coolant in it. Does that mean it needs a new intake manifold gasket? That is what the guy told me at the parts store. Also can I drive it like this or will it damage the engine?
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I was checking my COPs and the first one I pulled out of my 2002 f150 5.4l had a clearish liquid on the coil boot. I looked down in the spark plug hole and it was filled almost to the top of the spark plug itself. I smelled it and it smelled like gas. Why this would happen and what should be done to fix it?
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This a 02 with 5.4, had codes po306, pulled and checked sparkplug had moisture in it. Fixed that ran ok for a little bit then started again, no codes now and smells a little like rotten egg.
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Last weekend my number 4 spark plug blew out while on the highway. The truck stayed on long enough for me to get off the highway and pull over before it died. I towed the truck home. Last night I repaired it with a helicoil and replace the spark plug and coil. Now the truck cranks but won't start. I noticed that my theft light flashes fast and doesn't stop after a few seconds or during cranking. I still haven't tested relays or fuses because it was late after the repair. I will be checking those tonight.
I will be reading and taking suggestions and posting my results tonight while I'm working on the truck. I will be checking the fuel pump and PCM relay tonight. I will also try 2 different keys and checking the Inertia switch on the fuel pump to see if that tripped. The truck is a 2001 F-150 Lariat Supercrew with 150k miles on it. 5.4 liter engine.
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With the many discussions on F150 spark plug blow outs, is there any consistency in which Cylinders usually go or is it completely random. In my 2003 F150, 4.6, 2wd, I've replaced #3 cylinder with insert and now #2. Currently I'm at 154,000 miles but want to travel cross country with a load. I don't want to stall out on the hwy, would it be wise to go and insert the remaining cylinders - not cheap. My mechanic is willing to inspect with a bore scope the threads and re-torque. Is there a point at which if it hasn't been a problem it won't be. Truck is used primarily for commuting and to pull a single jet ski in the summer. Both blow-outs happened at a stop-light about 20,000 miles apart with no load.
Follow-up. Did inspection, found cylinder #7 nearly stripped out - it was actually pushing up the coil. Funny thing is, this plug had already the small insert which was coming out with the plug. I bought the vehicle new. Was this a factory repair? or did my previous mechanic strip-it when replacing all my plugs at 95,000 miles? Lucking the large inserts my current mechanic uses was able to find some metal and make a good repair. Looking at the cylinder order, I have now replaced 3 of the inter four cylinders (2,3,7) should have I done #6 too, this is probably the next high risk cylinder or not?
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The spark plug in chamber 2 blew off while the vehicle was in motion (approx 35 mph). Purchased replacement plugs and when I went to install, there was nothing for the plug to grab (i.e. appears that all of the threads on the block/casing are gone . Not sure what my options are.
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I have a 2001 ford f250 6.8 v10 with just about 183,000 miles on it my wife has been driving it and she told me it was running kinda rough so I took it for a drive and she was right so I pulled #1 COP and found it was full of oil and the same with#2 and #3 had a little bit of oil not as bad. What is causing my plug holes to fill with oil?
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So my 2000 F250 has 182k and I am not sure when plugs were changed. Its got the 5.4. My 2001 Excursion has 102k on the v10 and I've read a few threads about blowing plugs and now I am scared out of my mind. Do I need to worry about breaking them or stripping anything?
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I took a long trip this last weekend and before the return trip I checked the oil and realized I need some. I put two quarts which brought the level just about even with the top mark on the dipstick. the return trip was fine. Next morning I started the car and right away notice that the engine was misfiring. I checked the spark plugs and noticed that one of them was loose and had some oil in it. I checked the oil and now it showed the level to be well above the top mark on the dipstick. Could too much oil cause the spark plug to get dirty, get loose and misfire? This car is a 1997 and has 206,000 miles. This is the first time this has happened. Could the same thing happend with a 1999 Honda Civic?
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I have a Toyota 2001 Echo and after about 5 min of driving, it starts to stutter when I step on the gas and shake back/forth. It gets worse going up hills. Once it starts, it continues at any speed and doesn't have the normal power but doesn't die. Stepping on the gas harder doesn't increase the RPMs like it should. Thinking it might be the spark plugs, I removed the cap on one plug and found the well with about 2 cm of clear, yellow oil. Is this bad? if so, how bad?
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I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 that I bought used a couple of years ago. About every 20k miles (120k miles on it now) I get a check engine light and upon diagnosis it's the 4th cylinder spark plug fouled out, every time. I change the spark plug, but the old ones are always identical in damage. The porcelain has cracked on the spark plug.
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I somehow managed to kill my 04 Santa Fe 3.5 while doing the dreaded spark plug change and looking for pinpointing and rectifying the problem.
A quick rundown of the car... My mom bought her new in late 03, decided to get a BMW X3 a couple of years ago. I bought her with 65k miles. I just recently had the timing belt replaced by a reputable shop at 79k (yes I know I let it go too long.) I just hit 80k and decided it was also time to do the plugs as I had noticed a decrease in performance and gas mileage of late. Other than the recent dip in performance the car has been extremely reliable and has had no previous issues.
I researched as much as I could knowing that the 3.5 isn't the easiest engine to work on. I bought the recommended Champion plugs that came in the car from the factory as well as the oem Hyundai wires. I also replaced the plenum gasket.
I took my time replacing everything but despite my best efforts, I accidentally cracked the plastic on the radiator reaching over to the back bolts on the plenum. Other than that mishap, the only other issues was the #5 plug sticking which finally came loose after some begging and pleading to the car Gods. Unfortunately, my begging and pleading was enough for them to allow the car to start.
After reading a thread on here, I believe the problem is that I removed the TPS sensor to get to the bolts on the EGR valve, I know now that this was a big mistake. I checked and double checked every connector and can not find one that was missed or disconnected. The car would try to start but would not crank over. I was unable to get any OBD2 codes from my code scanner.
I decided to try a TB from a junkyard and swap it on to see if that was the issue. After swapping it on, the car started and ran like crap for about 15 seconds and stalled out. I was however able to pull some codes in this short time.
The codes I received are:
P0102: Mass Airflow Circuit Low Input.
P110 & P1172: ETS Improper Motor Current.
P1192: ETS Limp home - Target Follow Malfunction.
P2127: Throttle Pedal Position Sensor "E" Circuit. Accelerator Position Sensor 2 Voltage Too Low.
I'm not sure if these codes are left over from before I swapped out the TB or not. I reset the codes after I wrote them down and researched them to see if they reappeared but the car will not start again so I can't get the codes to reappear.
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I have an 03 F250 5.4L
Driving down the highway today, I notice my truck was jerking forward a little, hard to notice almost felt like I was hitting very small pot holes. I revved up a little to see if I could notice any noises and I got a loud pop. after the pop, got a noise like an exhaust leak so I pulled off to the side of the highway and popped the hood (engine still running). Noticed the noise coming from the passenger side most forward spark plug. Then noticed the part that the coil attaches too had broke off from its bracket and was unseated, shut off the engine and pulled it out to find the coil cover had melted to the coil.
The spark plug inside was moving freely so I took it out thinking it stripped from the header. Come to find that the plug had actually separated from its threading completely so just the core part of the plug had shot out from the cylinder, the threading and socket attachment portion still fully attached. I installed a new spark plug and new coil harness and coil. Seems to be running as good as new now. Is there more to this than a simple blown plug that I need to worry about?
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