Have an 01 f250 superduty with a 5.4 triton ... Plugs done 1500 miles ago along with boots just tested and put in 4 new coils.
I have developed a miss and i feel like I am parts chasing. The miss only shakes the cab when it goes to the lowest rpm for that gear. It is very subtle when it is in idle.
2001 F150 4x4 harsh shaking. When driving at consistent speeds the truck begins to shutter and shake, begins as a light shake and becomes extremely harsh fast. This is not like a vibration that can be felt, but a really harsh shaking of the entire truck.
The truck continues to shake after taking foot off gas and braking. It will shake harshly even when braking and slowed down to 5mph, but instantly goes away once at a complete stop. Accelerate immediately after coming to a complete stop and it completely goes away and drives normal for a day.
Check Engine light has not come on. Tachometer stays consistent RPM. Shift into neutral does not stop shaking. Only coming to a complete stop ether in drive or neutral does the shaking stop. It happens driving at consistent speeds going 35mph & 65mph, etc. Any thoughts on what the issue could be?
My launch scanner reported a bad oil pressure switch, but I've replaced that, and when I did the oil pressure light went away, but my gauge still didn't work. Could it be a faulty switch? Or is it common for gauges to stop working on these fords seeing how there's a resistor to trick the gauge from the factory anyway? If I smack my dash the gauge will raise and lower. But I think that's normal.
View 7 RepliesI have an 01 5.4 Triton with engine light on I put it on the scanner and it read miss fire on cylinder 6 and 1 I changed the cops and plugs boots and spring erased the codes but the check light is back on and scanner is say miss fire on same two cylinders u can hear it in the exhaust u can smell gas when sitting at an idle around 40 MPH has a slight engine shake goes away when u accelerate I am not sure what else to do some one told me to check for vac leaks and fuel pressure.
View 14 RepliesMy truck was jerking like it had a misfire, so I talked to a few people on here and they said it could be a bad coil on plug and some said it could be a spark plug misfiring. I put all new Motorcraft plugs and boots in and the problem of the jerking and possible misfire stopped.......until now, its back! The check engine light has never come on and this problem is getting ever so annoying.
Could it be a dirty fuel filter? Can a coil be bad and not throw a code for the check engine light to come on? Something in the EGR? The problem persist at 1000-2000 RPM's mainly.
2001 f 150 5.4 liter with it being code pops up saying cylinder one misfire, I've charge coil and spark plug ran great for awhile now starting to act up again. Got coil check and says still good and look at spark plug and looks still in good shape being just replace two weeks ago. It's running fine but if it sits over night and I get in and start it and begins to shake when I but it in drive and don't even need to move the truck just place it in drive with foot on break. I drive it awhile and it stops and runs fine?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2001 F-150 4x4 SC with a 4R70W. As a a couple weeks ago the transmission (or so I think) is slipping. When I take off from a red light the truck is shuttering. I also can be driving along at 55-60 mph and the truck jolts and shutters. I was reading some other threads and some guys think it could be a misfire, but since mine does it from a stand still i don't think it is. Just throwing that out there because it could be a factor, but once again I don't know.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford F-150 5.4L Supercrew that won't seem to shift out of 1st gear. This morning coming out of stop light on the way to work, the truck seemed to jerk when it was supposed to shift into 2nd gear. I was told by a friend that the speed sensor may be it?
So I took the truck around the block just so I can get a feel for what is going on. So the truck shifts into 2nd, but not past that. It seems that around 30mph the RPM's go up jump up quickly to 2k+ and no shift or increase in speed. I was reading up a bit on it and came across the possibility of a TPS?
I'm replacing my rear diff cover and didn't realize there are multiple sizes. How do I figure out what the size is of my ring gear?
2001 F150 XLT 4x4 SuperCrew, 5.4L
The problem started with a front seal leak a few months ago which I had no choice but to continue driving with because of low funds. I don't drive much so a couple of quarts of ATF was usually enough to get me out and about for what little driving I had to do. I know.. a front seal is cheap, but I'm partially disabled and unable to work on anything that is not under the hood.
I finally scraped up enough money to hire a friend to replace the seal, but he had a life crisis before completing the work, so I had to get another friend to reinstall the trany... still had the leak, but I could get around by adding ATF as before.
So we tried again... dropped everything and put another new seal on. This stopped the leak, but we got some grinding/squealing noises and could not get the trany to engage any gear.
From reading forum posts and other sources, we decided to replace the TC which we just completed this evening. We got some more of the grinding / squealing noise like before, except that it only occurred the first time we tried cranking the engine, the 2nd time we got no noises, but again no gears engaging.
What to check/replace next assuming there is something we can look at other than a total trany rebuild or replacement. I personally find it hard to believe we could have gone from a tolerably functional trany to scrap metal just replacing a seal and the TC. Its gotta be something simple we overlooked !!
I just bought a f150 2001 5.4L crew cab. It has the O/D switch in the gear shift lever and the black plastic handle is broke. I found a complete replacement lever on ebay but cannot find any tutorials on how to replace this.
View 8 RepliesI just came back from a long trip and during the 400 miles drive I started to hear noise coming from my differential - kind of like a constant high gear loud noise. I will hear this noise when I start to accelerate and it will only gets louder and louder as I go faster and faster. I had a pinion seal leaked fixed last week and I checked the fluid and it is full.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2001 ford f150 4x4 xlt and it seems to be shaking violently in first gear when I try to release the clutch slowly. The person i bought it from said he had a new clutch put in this year So i don't think its the clutch. What could be the cause of it before I take it in to be checked.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 2 door 2wd 5.4 engine. When I put it in gear the automatic door locks do not activate. The procedure for programming the remote does not work either. It calls for turning the ignition switch on and off 9 times, and the doors should unlock, so that procedure does not work either.
I took it to the dealer to have the BCM reprogrammed, they say there is no BCM in the vehicle. The codes they got says there is a door ajar, and the interior lamp relay DTC. I am not sure what the DTC means, forgot to ask.
The door warning light goes out when the doors are closed, and the interior light goes out. They do not seem to know how the system operates. I bought the wiring diagram.
From what I can see, closed lock switch connects directly to the GEM. The dealer told me there is two switches in the door. There is only one as far as I can determine. Ther are two plugs on the locking mechanism, on is for the remote lock, it works. So the lock closed switch is also working.
Reading this forum, I see several cases where people have changed the GEM, and that did not fix the problem. I can not see any other solution, as the door closed switch connects directly to the GEM, and the door open warning goes out, and the interior light goes out.
Truck seems to have a rough idle not bad I had kid in back seat and ran into store came out and he asked why my truck was shaking. Plugs been changed dunno anything else I could do.
View 8 RepliesIts not the tires/wheels. I just had them balanced. It only shakes when hard accelerating. If I am easy on it, then smooth as can be. It gets worse with the RPM of the engine. I am thinking its in the tranny.
It still shifts smooth and I have been pulling 17 mpg on the interstate with it. So I know its acting correctly? Could I have blown something in the trans or ballooned the torque converter?
It just started the other day, I drove about 350 miles on vacation and noticed it when I went to come home. Like i said it only shakes when you lay in to the throttle, and it gets kinda violent.
I've owned the truck for 8 months, did a fair bit of maintenance in the first two months (plugs, tranny fluid change, maf cleaned, o2s replaced), 320,000km runs very well, no codes.
When the truck is in gear and I put my foot on the brake after a second or so idling, the engine shakes. Releasing the brake, the shake stops, but it does it every time. Also, the belt or one of the pulleys will squeak a bit at the same time, but only idling with the brake on.
It doesn't seem like it is a serious problem, but what and why? My instincts are telling me it may be transmission related.
For over a year, the truck took 5-6 seconds of cranking to start, but always started. This morning it started, but shakes, coughs, and vibrates like hell. It revs up but still sounds like its hitting only on a few. replaced ciols many times over the years, but this sounds different.
View 6 RepliesI have a 03 F150 with a bi-fuel 5.4 engine an it has 195000 miles. I have had trouble for some time now with misfires. I bought the truck in october of 2011 with 125000 miles and replaced all the coils and spark plugs because it was misfiring badly will running on CNG. It was fine on gasoline and never had any codes. After I replaced the plugs and coils it ran fine on CNG and gasoline.
This summer 2013 it began missing badly at highway speeds only when running on CNG. If I accelerated the miss would go away until I was light on the throttle again.I checked the misfire count and found the bad cylinder and replaced a coil. Then a day later same thing on another cylinder. I swapped a coil from another cylinder and problem went away for a day. Eventually I chased the misfire around all the cylinders on the engine until I had ended up either replacing a spark plug or swapping a coil on all the cylinders. And I still had a misfire. It seemed to be worse on days with temperatures above 90 degrees. Eventually I got it to stop misfiring.
So now 5 months later I am back again with a misfire. This time it is misfiring on both gasoline and CNG and under any throttle conditions, except coasting. I have no codes. And the misfire monitor is sending me around the engine again. I have replaced a spark plug in two cylinders and swapped 4 coils.
I'm ready to buy all new coils, but I want to be sure that it is not a waste of money since the old ones only have 70000 miles on them.
Two days ago I had the misfire monitor saying #4 in the evening and the next day without me having done any work on it it was saying #6. Later that same day it said #7 and I still hadn't done anything other than drive the truck.
I checked the connections at the firewall on the drivers side with the three large plugs that are held in with a 10mm bolt, they looked fine, no corrosion or burnt pins. I checked the connection at the ACFM which also looks good. I will check the connection at the PCM in the next day or so.
Some other problems that may be contributing:
1. I occasionally get a U1262 code (scp fault)
2. Sometimes when I check the misfire monitor it only shows 7 cylinders, sometime 9 cylinders. I am using an Innova 3160 scanner.
3. I have either a leaking valve cover gasket or leaking head gasket, because I have oil dripping from the rear bottom corner of the passenger side cylinder head right above the exhaust pipe.
My 97 F-150 has 208,000 miles on the original engine. It started misfiring originally on just 2 cylinders, 1 and 8, after pulling the codes. I also get a P0420, catalyst system below threshhold bank code being thrown, but I think it is because of the misfires.
To remedy this I've done the following:
1. Spark plugs are relatively new and were changed completely a few months prior to issues.
2. Coil Packs were changed on both sides. Additionally, Cylinders 1 and 8 are on separate coil packs.
3. Spark Plug wires were changed
4. Did a resistance test on each fuel injector and they all passed.
None of this has worked. Am I missing something obvious? From my friends I've heard everything from my exhaust is plugged to I need to change all my injectors. Injectors are costly and I'm not even sure how to check if my exhaust is partially plugged, but it seemed to be flowing fine. Also, I pulled plug one since it was simple to get to and noticed it was slightly brown, like it had oil on it.
I got frustrated and continued driving my truck until the problem degenerated into severe misfiring and now I cannot get it started at all (Wrong move). I bought a car and haven't drove it since, and have it sitting behind my house. Now the cops want to tow it because the registration is has expired so I've decided to move it into my garage so I can work on it. Part of me wants to junk it, but I've put a lot of time, money, blood, sweat, tears, and curse words into this truck and am motivated to get it back up and running since the transmission and front suspension had been replaced recently.
What to do!?!?
1. Go to the Ford dealership and have them diagnose the issue and then try to fix it? (I have little confidence in them from the stories I've heard)
2. Pull the engine, tear it apart, and rebuild it?
3. Drop a used/rebuilt engine in?
4. Call me crazy and say junk the truck and buy a different one?
Currently leaning towards option 3...
I have changed the COP and the injector as well as the spark plug. I am still having a misfire on #7 cylinder....
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