I engage my 4wd all the time to keep it working and lubed up. tonight i turned it on and it was making a light clicking noise like a card in the spokes of a bike (not loud) and there was no vibrations or nothing that really sounded bad..what could be making this noise, what should I look for...
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 supercab 4x4 with a 4.6 in it, it has 186k on it and the only issues I've had was a misfire not to long ago. I replaced the plugs and coil packs and fixed that issue. 2 days ago she ran fine with no issues and this morning I went out to go to the store and she wouldn't start. All the dash lights come on and all of that normal stuff when you turn the key. When I turn the key I hear what sounds kind of like a clunking noise towards the bottom of the windshield and the middle of the dash. The starter does not engage, no nothing, really confused here. I thought maybe the battery was bad so I put my jumper on it and tried but again nothing happened.
View 14 RepliesI am having trouble with my 2001 F-150. Starting yesterday it would not start. At 1st i thought it wa the battery, so i took it off, charged it, put it back in the truck and still no start. There is a clicking noise coming from a relay in the cabin fuse box, disconnected the battery, removed relay to inspect and everything looks good. After plugging it back in, and connecting the battery, the truck still wont start and there is a clicking sound coming from the dash near the radio. Rhis is my work vehicle!!!
View 3 RepliesThe problem started with a front seal leak a few months ago which I had no choice but to continue driving with because of low funds. I don't drive much so a couple of quarts of ATF was usually enough to get me out and about for what little driving I had to do. I know.. a front seal is cheap, but I'm partially disabled and unable to work on anything that is not under the hood.
I finally scraped up enough money to hire a friend to replace the seal, but he had a life crisis before completing the work, so I had to get another friend to reinstall the trany... still had the leak, but I could get around by adding ATF as before.
So we tried again... dropped everything and put another new seal on. This stopped the leak, but we got some grinding/squealing noises and could not get the trany to engage any gear.
From reading forum posts and other sources, we decided to replace the TC which we just completed this evening. We got some more of the grinding / squealing noise like before, except that it only occurred the first time we tried cranking the engine, the 2nd time we got no noises, but again no gears engaging.
What to check/replace next assuming there is something we can look at other than a total trany rebuild or replacement. I personally find it hard to believe we could have gone from a tolerably functional trany to scrap metal just replacing a seal and the TC. Its gotta be something simple we overlooked !!
When I turn the switch on the front wheels don't engage. I replaced the two vacuum solenoids on the firewall no change. I replaced the actuator motor on the transfer case and everything worked....once. Tried to go around the back of the house thought I was in 4x4 but front wheels not engaging again. buried in mud. I let it set there overnight. Went out earlier started it and put it in 4x4 and it started puling out front wheels engaged. As soon as I gave it a little gas the front wheels became disengaged and it wouldn't go anywhere. I made several more attempts and no luck. I did the vacuum test where you turn the heater on panel and if there's a vacuum leak somewhere the heater blower will default to defrost. It passed this test so I'm assuming there is no leak anywhere. Why it worked right after I replaced the transfer case motor and again only after I got stuck and it set in the mud overnight?
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 F150 5.4 V8 4x4, My problem is when I engage 4Hi the dash light "low range" turns on but NOT the 4x4 light. Now if I go to 4Low the 4x4 light turns on(Low Range light stays on). So in essence the lights are backwards. In 4Hi it is not engaging 4 wheel drive. Also its a SOTF not electronic selector.
View 2 Replies2003 F150 SuperCrew 9.75". Today we got to tearing into my rear end on my truck. I was having a clicking noise from the rear end when slowing down from about 20mph. It was a constant click, click, click, click. It was driving me nuts. Well when I first tore the cover off to change the wheel bearings I found some metal pieces in the bottom of the rear end housing.
I did some researching and came to the conclusion it was the shims behind the side gears or the clutch packs. Well it turned out to be the clutch packs were totally shot!! The side gears and the spider gears were loose and kinda just flopping around!! I ended up changing the side gears and spiders gears, bought them as a kit through ford and then the clutch packs.
The job overall wasn't to hard at all. The hardest part was getting the spider gears spun into the carrier. Ford has a "special tool" that that compresses the clutches and another to hold the carrier through the splines in the gears so you can spin the carrier itself to spin the spider gears in. We ended up using the axel shaft itself and clamping it into a vise and setting the carrier on it to hold it from being able to spin.
We then took a piece of all thread and put it through the side gears and put washers on each of the side gears and nuts in-between them and then spinning the nuts up and down to compress the clutches. Basically what Fords "special tool" does. Then just spun the carrier with the pin that goes through the two spider gears and that was about it. Once we got that done it was all basically putting it all back together.
Got a 99 f150 4x4. 4x4 use to work perfectly until 6 months ago. Now every time I turn the key on, I hear 5-6 clicks behind the dash (specifically behind the speedometer). This happened right when the 4x4 stopped working. This click is the same sound it use to make when it was working when I would shift 2H, 4H or 4L. (but just one click per turn). I get no light indicators nor click sound when I turn the switch. I've replaced the actuator, solenoids and the switch on the dash itself.
The same problem persists. I have a good vacuum and can see the actuator moving when manually grounding either solenoid to simulate a working 4x4 system. Fuse 23 and 104 are good. I had a semi-mechanic check the GEM and said 90% chance it was good but did come back with code 1838 Transmission Transfer Case Shift Motor Circuit Failure and code 1867 Transmission Transfer Case Contact Plate General Circuit Failure.The secret relay went bad? The wire went bad? Secret 4x4 connector came loose somewhere?
It's a 97 with the 4.6 v8. I turn the key and the lights in the cab go out. A voltmeter on the battery reads 12.53 and doesn't drop at all when the key is turned. I took the alternator out and had it tested with a pass. The battery was replaced 2 months ago. I can hear the relay in the fuse box clicking away after the key is returned to the off position. Is my next step a new starter? Solenoid? Relay? This all just happened overnight. And it's only got 115,000 miles. The starter does not turn over...
View 7 RepliesWhen I turn left a "clicking" noise appears, it's rhythmic and I figured it was the CV joint at the drivers side going bad. Bought a new one and installed it. Clicking seemed to get away for maybe 5-7 days. Then it occurred again. Because the package in which the cv joint arrived was very roughed up I thought maybe it took damage during delivery and bought a new one. Installed and guess what? Took a drive after that, NOTHING and now it's clicking again. It's so loud you can hear it when you drive behind my truck and I'm turning. Doesn't seem to make a difference if I brake or not.
View 14 RepliesOn my 2003 f150 4 by 4 I've been hearing clicking noises. When i take off from the start it starts clicking then gets faster up until I hit about 30 mph then goes away. The sound is coming from the back. Whenever I goes in reverse it rattles a little bit too (not so much of the clicking). Do I have a bad u joint somewhere back there?
View 1 RepliesStart truck cold, getting clicking noise...sounds like valve but runs great. Warms up and clicking goes away. Remove #1 spark plug and it shows build up of whitish carbon. Will remove the other spark plugs and check. Also starting to use half a can of oil a week. No leaks that I can see. Oil pressure gauge shows high...always has. Also, open door and get out after driving and smell oil. Wanted to make it to 400k but might not be able to with this issue.
Going to do a compression check to see what else is happening. Still have decent power. If cylinder pressure is good would it make since to do just a "top end" rebuild (if it is a valve issue? Should i pull it and do a complete rebuild? What does white build up on spark plug usually indicate?
2002 f150 fx4 ... I changed both front cv shafts cause they were making noise and the u joints and I still have a clicking noise in reverse if I turn my wheel at all to the right ...
View 1 RepliesI have a 97 f150 lariat 4.6L 150,000+ miles, and I am getting a lot of electrical things going wrong, been looking, and found sum kind of electric module could be the issue, except the problem are a bit dif then the ones listed. I am just wondering if it could be my issue. my problems are, 4x4 and low range light come on and off with clicking coming from under dash, daytime lights work here and there, air bag light flashes.
Then this morn my wife went to leave for work and there was a air leak hissing sound coming from the brake pedal area and that was b4 she started the truck, then she said when she got there that the heater stayed on after she shut it off and there was a beeping sound coming from the glove box. I am a general diy mechanic and dont know electrical very well, and i am at a loss.
My steering wheel seems like it is bout to fall off, and when making turns it seems to bind and not wanna turn, but when i try to pull on it, it seems sturdy but it will kinda flop if i go side to side or up and down with it.
I have a 2002 f150 4.6L triton. I've been having problems with it making a clicking noise. It only does it when its in gear. I put it in park or natural I hear nothing. But as soon as I put it in drive or reverse and put a little pressure on throttle it starts to tick pretty loudly.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1999 f-150 and am having a problem that I cannot pin down . After starting the truck and running it for 10 min or so I shut it off and it will not restart again for approx. 3-4 hrs . When you turn the key there is a clicking noise coming from behind the fuse panel . Also the truck will not start if temp outside rises above 80 degrees . Is there a replaceable relay under there or is it the computer module ? Battery is new .
View 9 RepliesI just bought a 00 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 auto...it wouldn't start but not because something was wrong. it kept making a clicking sound and the theft light was one blinking...took my bronco to work and when I came home it started right up...I was thinking one of the keys didn't have the chip in it but it started with both keys....it doesn't have a key fob or keyless entry. I tried locking my drivers door with the key and unlock it...
View 6 RepliesBatteries charged, connection & cables checked. After turning ignition switch, gauges on dash jump around & starts clicking in fuse panel. Top left relay then clicking sound from beside steering column on right side next to trailer brake box. Been having electrical issues & something draining batteries...had absolutely no cold start this winter. No decent mechanics here other than to be ripped a new one @ local dealership.
View 1 RepliesI have a 03 4x4 5.4lt supcab with 154k miles. I replaced the shift motor about 40,000 ago but it has always been tempormental like I had to engage it in 4lo in N and then shift to 4hi to keep it in 4hi. Now fast forward to today. Went to shift to 4lo in N and it didn't shift. I only heard the relays click once and then it wouldn't shift into any gear even though the indicator was on PRND123. Didn't matter.
Also, Park didn't engage and the speedometer acted like it was engaged in RN and D. No movement what so ever. I think it might be the shift motor that shifted part way and is stuck in between gears. Is this possible? I drove fine to the dirt road and I haven't had problems other then the shift motor being touchy. I don't want to pay for a new tranny if it might be the shift motor.
I have a 2003 F150 5.4liter 4x4 and when it is cold I can not get the 4x4 to engage. It is a manual shift for the transfer case not electronic. It shifts but does not activate the 4x4 when it is cold. The 4x4 does work when the temp is about 30 degrees or better. Where to start?
View 1 RepliesI've got a problem with my 4x4 not engaging. I've been ready and re-reading all the related posts and threads and am still confused. Here goes. Early in the fall I had no problem shifting in or out of 4wd. Then when it got well below freezing up here, it stopped working. I had it in a warm shop and all of a sudden it worked fine. After sitting outside again it wouldn't work.
When it was warm, I had no problem shifting in and out of 4x4, dash lights functioning as normal. As it got colder it only seemed to work if I really pulled quite hard on the stick and the 4Low indicator didn't work but 4Low was obviously engaged. Now after another day or two outside, nothing happens at all. When the diff does engage, shifting out of 4x4 is never a problem.
Transfer case seems fine as the front drive shaft turns when I shift into 4H and drive forward. After researching a bit, I crawled under and pulled the blue line off the actuator and had someone shift into 4H, I couldn't feel any vacuum so figured it must be the engage solenoid especially since, shifting out of 4x4 is never a problem.
My question now is, shouldn't the lights on the dash be on even if the solenoid isn't working? I am now starting to wonder if its the sensor switch on the transfer case but I don't see how freezing should affect the switch and would think I'd have issues shifting out of 4x4 as well as in. If I put it in 4X4 and test for current at the solenoid and it is there, can I assume that the switch is fine and the problem is in fact the solenoid?