Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - Keyless Entry Fobs To Work While The Truck Is Running
Feb 27, 2016
I have an 01 F150 SuperCrew with factory keyless entry fobs. I would like to be able to leave my truck running, take the keyless entry fob with me, and then lock the doors. Currently, the keyless entry fobs are disabled when the truck is running and I'd be locked out of the truck. I've had newer Fords that would allow the fobs to stay active with the vehicle running. Do this can be programmed into the truck?
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If your truck came with the FOB to open the doors remote, but not the keypad on the door, you can add one. Originally the keypad was hard wired and was an expensive option. Several years later the newer keypads were RF signal just like the FOB. If you have or had FOB, then you have the keyless module on the truck (mounted to firewall infront of the emergency brake).. All you have to do is buy the newer style RF keypad, stick it to the door, and program like the FOB. I just did this on a 2002 F150.
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What would be involved with removing the keyless entry system on my '02 F150 XLT so that I can install it into my '97 Explorer that I am fixing up. Is it integrated into the main computer or is it a totally separate system? If so where is it located?
The Expo already has power locks just not keyless (or at least I never received the key fob for it when I bought it) I have shaved the door lock cylinders and am fabricating handles to be hidden in the window moldings.
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I'm putting in a remote starter keyless entry in my 2000 f150 I have all the wires figured out except for the remote start part. Where the wires listed in the photo go? I do have the module required.....
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My keyless entry didn't work this morning on the way to work....the parking lights came on and stayed on awhile but no dice on unlocking. I figured no biggie and tried to unlock the door with the key...the door lock won't rotate. I went in the house and tried keyless again with the spare keyfob....still nothing. I didn't have time to keep messing around so I just drove my car today. It's a 2012 F150 w/ a little under 6K miles.
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I started a lease on the eGolf on 1Dec2014.
I came from the original 04 R32 but my wife 4 yr old Lexus has a similar keyless entry key detection setup as the eGolf.
Unlike my wife's lexus, I am having a lot of issues with the eGolfs keyless entry.
50% of the time it does not work when I am standing right outside my car... I have to take the key out and physically press the button.
is this a know issue with VW? Is there a fix?
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2001 F350 with 5.4 ... No leaking brake lines. The bad calipers have been replaced. Brake system doesnt seem to build pressure when the truck is running. The pedal gets stiff when the truck is shut off but when its started the pedal goes to the floor. Just put in a new booster and master cylinder. Flushed and blead all the lines several times now and got all the air out and am now getting a nice solid stream of fluid.
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I have a 2005 Pruis and the remote entry does not work. Changed the battery in the remote and I still have to put the remote key in slot to start the car. Been working fine for ten years.
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But i have a 99 silverado 5.3l z71(new body style) bought a new key fob to program but my truck will not go into program mode. Ive tried the hold unlock then cycle ignition and the turn signal version but neither one worked....
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On last start up the starter sort of sounded odd, thought nothing of it. Went to go to the store again, and nothing. Keyless entry does not work. No activity at all. Used the key to get in and try to start...nothing. tried to open the trunk from inside. Nothing. Replaced battery about 3 months ago. No problems with that. Car is maintained religiously.
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I have 2000 VW Passat. I had my car in shop shop to replace windshield washer nozzle. After picking up my car found out that car started to have electrical problems
- keyless entry does not work;
-When i turn on headlights, the alarm tone inside the car does not go off. I drive the car home with this noise inside the car.
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It's cold and of course when I need it the factory installed key fob doesn't work. I took the car to one of those fancy car accessory stores and they said my alarm was working just fine. The power locks work fine when locking the car from inside the car. Just not using my remote fob. Searching Google I found an article about a similar condition where they said the solenoid was faulty and this was common for my model.
I know little about cars but this sounds expensive. What is a solenoid and why just the car fob. What is the point of having a remote start if you can't use it in 18 degree weather.
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I have a 2003 Explorer with the Factory Keyless Entry on the driver's door. It recently quit working with either my code or the factory code. I have cleared my code, and the only response is that the keypad will light up, and I can lock all doors with the pad. It refuses to take a code to unlock. Other than the dealer route (and a possible new GEM)? The wireless remotes continue to work well.
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I have bought a used 1999 F250 4-door 4X4 7.3. Is there any way to tell if my truck came with a remote for the keyless entry. It has power door locks and windows. I was debating on calling my local Ford dealership and seeing if they could check by the VIN number.
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I am trying to put in after market keyless entry on my 03 sd wired up my relays according to the 5 wire alternating door locks found on this page
[URL]....
but it keeps popping my fuse when I try to put it in, if this is even the correct set up I found another guy on here that used the same set up but never said if it worked or not
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Do the wiring for keypad keyless entry is in the harness and the programing in gem module on a 2003 F350 crew cab?? It would seems that is the same harness/parts as the excursion. I have not removed door panel yet, just trying to save some time.
This truck is one of my finest 4x4 rides yet, this would make much better!!! when i picked up my truck, included in the owners info was a factory keypad keyless entry code card, dealer told me that all trucks with keyless have that card regardless if it has keypad or keyless remote entry???
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I have the factory keyless entry on my '03 F-250 SuperCab. I have always had to be within about 5'-8' of my cab to get the doors to lock/unlock. I thought it was normal for the longest time, but recently learned it's not. I am out of warranty now so I need to try and fix this myself. What is the location of the receiver module, and what it looks like? Also, is there an external antenna w/ the factory keyless entry, and where is it at? Transmitters are fine, as is battery power. Only think it could be is receiver/antenna.
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I know the first thing you all will say is to check my fuses and relays. I already have done every last thing related to that to try and figure out the problem. The only thing I can bring my mind to consider is that one of the relays located on the back of the interior fuse box, might be the problem. However I cannot get to that easily without tearing my car apart, which I do not want to do without truly knowing that is the root of my problem.
I had a collision guy (family friend) look at my car for free, knowing he had limited knowledge on electrical, he thinks that it is my ECM or ECU possibly.
Amongst the clock, radio, and keyless entry being out, my gauges spin around when I turn the car on, and my door chime also fails.
I truly don't think this is the case because I didn't think the ECU controlled the radio and lights, more so that it controls when the car shifts and such.
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I have a 95 f-250 psd with factory remote keyless entry. about 3 weeks ago i had a fuse blow that powers the keyless entry module, speed control, and a number of other systems.
If I replaced the fuse it blew right away so i got my wiring diagrams out and started unplugging parts of the circuit and my last attempt was to unplug the keyless entry module. presto no blown fuse so i got a module from a junk yard fixed the problem and now it has happened again. same exact thing. unhook the module and no blown fuse. i took the first module apart and saw no burned parts and no visible damage but here i am blowing fuses with no door locks, dome light and a few other things.
The fuse that blows is fuse 8. I am a mechanic and have full access to anything I need. I have another module under warantee but I want to be sure that its not something other than the module causing problems.
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Trailer light dont work right. If the running lights are on the brakes dont work. If the running lights are off the brake lights work fine. I cant drive at night this is a huge issue for an up and coming transporter. Its not the trailer lights ive eliminated that with my plug checker. Is it the rely? Blown fuse? Or common ford electrical mess up?
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I have a 2003 Camry I4. My RKE stopped working. First I checked the battery in the remote, it reads 3v like it should. I searched and found how to reprogram the the receiver, so I tried that. I did the door and key dance and got to where when you pull the key out and the door locks lock then unlock. I try pushing the lock and unlock button, then just the lock button as per the instructions and I get nothing. Supposed to get one cycle of the locks if it works and tow cycles if it doesn't. I get neither of those, nothing happens. So I buy a new remote off of eBay (brand new, never used, OEM remote). I try the reprogram door dance again and get the same results. The battery in the new one reads 3v like it should as well. So I go off to a junk yard to replace the receiver door controller, I found one and replaced it and I get the same exact results.
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