I need to check for any A/C leaks, and get more recharge to make A/C colder. How can this be done? Can this be done at home? What type of refrigerate do I need. Kings Ranch -102,000 miles.... 2001 F-150 5.4 ....
View 14 RepliesI think the truck needs a recharge, it's not blowing any cold air. The question is - which port do I use? There's one on the top of the accumulator and another in the line just off the passenger side of the radiator, near the coolant tank.
My only recharge experience was after I replaced a leaking accumulator in my 2007 Crown Vic police interceptor, and this obviously doesn't look quite the same.
I had this happen twice. The Prius will run the ICE non-stop to recharge the battery. Even after the Energy monitor shows the battery to have a full charge (yes, 100% green), the ICE just keeps working to charge it up. Accelerating even slightly, which would normally use the battery only, uses the ICE instead.
View 10 RepliesWhere is the low side hook up to charge my a/c 2003 f250 v10
View 6 Replies2001 F-150 Headlights won't go off when i turn the switch off , all other lights due, this is the first time this has happened , had to pull the headlight fuses to shut the off ?
View 8 RepliesThe AC on my 2001 F150 didn't work correctly so I bought a gauge and a bottle of AC juice and decided to charge the system. The AC starts out cold and turns warm. I put the gauge on the system and the needle goes to the red portion of the gauge. The AC will turn warm.
Is there a relay switch that quits functioning? Is there a code I could look at to determine the problem?
I just purchased a 2001 F150 XLT with a 5.4 engine. If I start the truck and let it idle, it will hold steady around 900rpm's. If I give it a little gas and then let of (all while in park). The rpm's never come back down to 900. It hangs at approximately 2000rpm's. If I turn off the truck, wait a few minutes, start it back up, the engine idles fine again at 900rpm's. If I give it some throttle again, the same scenario takes place.
View 8 RepliesTransmission lost 3rd and 4th gears so I pulled it and found the direct drum burnt up, got new drum and changed all seals, clutches, steel plates, aftermarket cooler and put a sure cure kit in it.
Truck drove great until it blew the front seal out 250 miles later, took it to a shop since I was away from home and he said the clutches got hot so he completely rebuilt it. Truck made it 150 miles and lost 3rd and 4th again. He replaced all the solenoids also.
Transmission shop rebuilt it again and it made it 80 miles and now it will not move at all. We replaced the neutral switch, shift cable, and shifter handle on the last rebuild because he thought it was hanging between neutral and drive.
What else could be making this transmission keep going out? Could it be a bad case, bad valve body or what? We are at a total loss on what keeps burning it up.
Need some input on miss firing on acceleration on a 2001 Ford SuperCrew F-150 Lariat, 5.4 engine. 200,290 miles.
Have replaced all spark plug boots covers (Sept 2012), number 1 plug (Sept 2012), 3 and 7 plugs replaced, 3 and 7 has heli-coil kits (2011) installed for blown out plugs. New in-take manifold (2010). New gas line filter, air and oil filters (Oct 2012) and oil changes every 3000 to 3500 miles. Have poured 12 oz. fuel injector cleaner in gas take two times with 6 to 7 gallons of fuel in gas tank (last 2 weeks).
Have No check engine light on for service engine but have had an diagnostic scanner analyzer plugged into driver side, in cab outlet, 4 different times to see if I have a bad coil on plug or other problems. No codes show up indicating any problems. The engine idles nicely when at stop lights but does have a slight intermittent miss at times when warmed up and stopped at lights. Engine misses when warmed up on acceleration (when it is under a load and on acceleration).
Had a mechanic tell me he could plug an analyzer into engine but couldn't guarantee he would find anything wrong. This sounded like a little snow in July to me and the mechanic didn't sound optimistic.
My AC clutch is not turning on. I do not have any AC gauges but if I unplug the compressor and put a meter on the 2 harness pins, I do not see any voltage when truck is running and AC on. I really don't know much about AC but I am thinking the problem may possibly be the low pressure switch or possibly low on freon. How can I check if I am low on freon without gauges? Where exactly is the low pressure switch located on my truck and if I jump the switch and the clutch kicks on, does that tell me that the problem can only be the low pressure switch or low on freon. I'm just trying to work through a few of the gremlins.
View 14 RepliesI need to diagnose a heat problem. I have a 2001 F150 XL. 4.2L Manual controls. The a/c blows nice and cold, but when you put the heat on its not really hot, blows warm air. I changed the blend door actuator,it got a little warmer. Now that winter is around the corner need to figure it out and fix it. The thermostat, water pump, and coolant flushed before I bought it. Could it be the blend door itself, or is there another actuator I'm missing.
View 14 RepliesI parked my truck yesterday and know the odometer display was working. Started truck up this morning and no display. My brake light (idiot light in dash) was slightly illuminated as well. The truck ran fine and when I shut it off and started it back up again, the odometer was still out but the brake light was off. Any thoughts? I saw a you tube video showing a cold solder joint on the back of the dash motherboard. I hate to pull that all apart if there could be something else that is simple.
View 7 Replies2001 S-Crew, 4RW70, 5.4L, 189,000 miles. This started two years ago and first became apparent when I made a hard/panic stop. In fact, the first time it did it I was going to go through a traffic light and hit the brakes at the last second so I didn't actually run the red light. The truck shook like it missed for a second. That was unlikely as the coils and plugs were relatively new.
Here's what it does. When sitting still, in gear and you let off the brake but do not touch the accelerator, the truck will start to move as expected. It immediately shudders as it passes through 3-5 mph and then stops. It shifts through all the gears flawlessly, has no sign of the dreaded torque converter issue. It also does it as you come to a stop- as you come to a full stop and the trans shifts into 1st it shudders just as you come to a halt.
It started doing two years ago and never progressed. It's been the same until just recently when the weather got warm again. It's gotten a bunch worse in the last week and now the truck actually feels like it is idling rough sitting at a stop. (It's not- it's running fine.) But it feels like clutch chatter in a manual. Fluid changes have been routinely done every 30,000-40,000 miles, trans fluid is clear and not burnt, temps are normal.
As I said, it behaves perfectly the rest of the time and even tows my 20' 4,000 lb. boat just fine. Just that initial moment of take-off and at the stop. If I hit the gas when taking off I never feel it. Likewise, if you shift into neutral and coast to a stop it doesn't do it.
Ok, did a quick search, found nothing. Is there a way to get CEL codes without a reader on '01 F150? I know the way on 80's stuff, is there on newer stuff?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 Supercrew Lariat. About a month ago I stopped to fill up with gas and afterwards it would crank but not start. After a few tries the engine would no longer turn over. My battery was 7 years old so I replaced it and the problem went away for about 5 days. Then the same thing, crank but no start. I checked all the fuses & called the local Ford dealer.
After talking with the parts dept. I tried hitting the panic button then the truck started. After talking to parts again I replaced the PATS transceiver. After 3 weeks with no issues the problem came back. This time I locked the doors with the keyless entry remote then unlocked them & the truck started. So I'm wondering what is my problem. Could it be the PATS module or something with the keyless entry module or some other issue.
I just had to replace a cluster for a customer due to the odometer light being out. I need to reprogram the PATS system in the ECM, I was wondering if there was a way to do this without having a IDS. I do have the AE with the FORD bundle, but its at home. My Snap On Solus wont do it.
I know you can do it with a GM by bumping the key every 10 minutes for 30 minutes...didn't know if there was a way around it or if the AE has the ability.
I just bought an 01 F150 and previous owner didn't have the manual.
Need a copy of the fuse box diagram for this truck?
I've been surfing the net, and can't find what looks like the right one.
F-150 Super Crew 5.4 4X4 cranks won't start. what and where do I check first?
View 8 Replies'01 F150 XLT 5.4L EFI 207,000 miles
I've had this truck since '03 @ 45,000 mi and have loved it ever since. It hasn't failed me yet, until now. Living in TX with no A/C is the pits,
He first replaced the large hose assembly (with a non Motorcraft part) due to a pinhole then recharged the system. It cooled great until the pressure pop off valve (or whatever it's called) blew all the freon out.
His first suspicion was the fan clutch, which was replaced with a motorcraft fan clutch. Next he used his a/c machine to evacuate/flush/recharge the system - problem persisted. Lastly, he cleaned the radiator and condenser fins and recharged again. The system still overheated and lost the freon.
While the freon is in the system it cools like never before but after driving it, parking for a while, then re-starting it overheats within minutes.
About a month ago, my 2001 f150 supercrew (4x4 5.4L) didn't want to start one morning. This was after a very cold night (15 degree temps). It sounded like it had plenty of juice in the battery (cranked good), just wouldn't start. Later in the day, after it warmed up, still no start. I dug thru here, and someone recommended disconnecting the positive battery cable for a minute then retrying. I did it, and it worked. All was good.
About a week ago, no start in the morning again. Tried the positive cable disconnect, no luck. After several hours, it just seemed to randomly start, and all was well again.
Today, truck started right up in the morning, but later in the afternoon (warm winter day 45 degrees) no start. Tried the positive cable disconnect, no luck. After screwing with the truck for about an hour, I decided to put the fuel pressure gauge on the rail. NO fuel pressure.
Is fuel pressure associated with the PATS, or is this a straight up fuel system problem?
Additional info: My gas tank fell out this summer, (recall on those tank straps), and I had a new tank, pump, straps and lines installed. I had a no crank, no start issue this summer, but that turned out to be the transmission not registering in park. I assume the two issues are unrelated.
At the above speeds my truck has a rattle/ticking. I think its the cats but I'm not sure. I checked all the obvious like the heat shields and stuff. The truck has 118000 miles on it and has been in So. Cal. its whole life.
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