Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - Got P0357 - Replaced Coil - Rough Idle?
Aug 18, 2015
Sunday my truck began to sputter at idol while at a light and continued when parked. My first assumption was another coil pack has gone out. Went to autoparts store to get a new one and run the codes to tell me which cylinder it was. Code P0357 came up referring to cylinder G which seemed odd to me as it usually gives me a number rather than a letter. Bought the coil pack and went home to swap it out. Replaced the coil and with no change in the idol I googled the code. I have now replaced the coil, inspected the plug and wires around the plug and now I am at a loss of what to do next.
There is only a rough idol, no hesitation when driving or accelerating. Along with that, I've notice that if I'm going between 30-50 and take my foot off the gas it doesn't slow down, it's as though the cruise control is on... After a few miles on the highway and come to a stop, the RPMs are around 1k for about 30 seconds then drops to almost stall before catching itself and begins to sputter.
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I have a 03 250 5.4 with 160k. I just recently replaced #4&3 coil packs. Truck was running great again. Then a few days later the truck was running extremely rough and white smoke from the exhaust. I noticed the pcv valve was not all the way in(pretty much out) put it back in and ran fine for two days now running rough every now and then and the pcv valve is making a vibrating noise but stops if I pinch it slightly. I did replace the plugs a year ago.
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Have a 2001 F150 FX4x4 and since the weather changed and started having days below 40 the truck has started running rough for about the first 15-20 miles. When you first start it starts like normal for first 3-5 min and then it starts loping real bad like it has a cam in it!
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I have a 2004 SF/2.4 I4. When the car warms up, the ignition coil sparks between the rubber boot and the coil itself, drawing the spark from the plug and resulting in a misfire. This is especially apparent when the A/C is running and the car is idle-ing, resulting in the A/C turning off and a rough jumping idle. Once the car is running this is not noticeable and the A/C turns on.
I have changed the spark plugs to new autolite plugs, and the situation disappeared for a day, but now it is back. I ordered OEM NGK Laser Iridium plugs, I hope they will fix the situation. Why would the A/C matter? Next on the list will be the ignition coil and wire change, but I hope to avoid that.
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When the idle control valve is replaced does the ECU have to relearn the settings?
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i just got an F150 supercrew 5.4L 4x4. has approximately 180k miles but motor and tranny run clean and smooth. issue i am having is the OD light flashes but no other service light is on. i had code read and said it was a Differential Feedback Pressure Sensor (DFPS). Replaced the sensor and hoses but still the light is flashing. i have not changed EGR as of yet due to money but was wondering if i could maybe get pointed in the right direction. the Tranny does not seem to be operating improperly except at low speeds it tends to shift between OD and 3rd on occasion.
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This is a truck at work, I had my student workers put in a new blinker switch, and when they were done it won't start anymore. The "theft" light is flashing on the dash, so I guess the PATS system thinks it was tampered with. How could you trigger this by changing the blinker switch? Does this have to be reset by a dealer?
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Drove 97 LHS home from work back at the end of June on a 100 plus day, it seemed fine, no indication of any problem. Got in it the next morning to go to work and it would not start. Cranks fine, hear fuel pump. So a few days pass before my husband can look at it. He did get codes. He replaced the ignition coil, put on a new fuel filter, and replaced a couple of modules. It would still not start. We towed it to a service station that we have used for years.
They replaced the camshaft sensor (and fixed the AC). I drove it for 8 days, no problems. Then on the morning of the 9th day, it would not start!! Exact same symptoms. So towed it again back to the service station. Then they said it was the PCM (control module). Husband went to junk yard to get one (much cheaper). Service shop put it in and then said that was not the problem and replaced the crankshaft sensor instead. Say it was ready to pick up. I went and paid again! Got key and came back later with husband to pick it up. IT would not start!!!
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completely stock 2006 4.6, 230,000 miles, I purchased and can vouch for everything after 106,000.
Two separate issues...have had a slight ticking noise growing for about the last two years. Seems to get slightly worse near an oil change but that could be my imagination. It has finally gotten loud enough that my wife (who drives with the delicacy and observational skills of a Sherman tank driver) actually mentioned it to me the other day. It is directly related to engine speed whether the truck is in gear or not. I kind of think it might be a manifold gasket going out but am not sure. Am not very worried about it but...felt like I needed to mention it because of my bigger problem....
Truck has gotten very "cranky" on startup in the last week. Has a rough time finding an idle speed but typically sorts itself out after about 5-10 seconds. This afternoon it started idling rough at a stoplight. It got steadily worse and noticeable even at speed. Four stoplights and nine miles later it threw a code and coincidentally, I was in front of an Advance Auto. They read it and said the #3 cylinder was not firing. I bought an ignition coil, drove 15 miles home and changed it. From everywhere I looked online, this is the second cylinder from the firewall on the passenger side.
Had a little trouble getting it in and am not entirely sure it is fully seated in the slot, but I can't get it to go any further. Seems as tight as a couple of the others. I disconnected the battery to clear the codes, cranked it up and it seems to run "better", but still has a rough idle. Just test drove it about 12 miles and no check engine light but the idle has not cleared up. I think coil must be working fine because I have no issues at highway speed. Earlier, when I backed off the gas you would feel the miss very badly, but not as much when under a load.
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I just acquired a 2003 with 5.4 L. Did all new plugs and coils, cleaned MAF sensor, changed air filter, oil, transfluid and filter (obviously not related).
Upon start up and idle the truck has is rough, enough that it will vibrate the whole truck SLIGHTLY. Once in gear and warm, it smooths out and is fine. Unit the next stop and start.
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I got a 97 f150 4.2l from my neighbor. he takes good care of his vehicles. he sold it to me cuz it started to idle very rough like a misfire. it is hard to start when cold spits sputters and pops. once started idles like it wants to stall, then will idle normally then back to rough. back and forth like that. runs like a champ when going down the road . check engine light was on took it to auto store they checked codes . said bad o2 sensors so i changed them. still same issue. neighbor changed coil packs checked spark plugs and wire. every thing fires good. i changed iac. still didn't fix problem. could this be a bad egr valve or sensor? if so how can i diagnose this? he also thought was a clogged cat and bored it out. tight budget can't afford to take it to a mechanic. Was told spray carb cleaner spray around engine to check for leaks that did nothing at all...
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I bought this truck used and when it's in drive the engine idles rough and seems about to stall when the ac is on at a stop sign or red light.. I've tried it w/o the ac on and it seems a little better but not as smooth. Idle in park is fine.
When I should start looking? Spark-plugs? spark plugs wires, disturber cap, fuel filter etc...
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2000 Ford F150 1/2 ton 2x 5.4L... Last year, I started having a problem where when the temp dropped below 50 degrees outside, my F150 would idle really rough and sometimes stall out. The CEL came on and reported some codes that I don't remember but pointed to bad air/fuel mix. I consulted a friend and he suggested changing out the IAC. I did that just towards the end of the cold weather spell we were having and the engine ran great so I assumed it was fixed.
Well, the temps have been below 50 for 8 days now and ever since the temps dropped the problem has come back. I took it to AutoZone to have the codes read and they gave me the following:
P1151 - Lack of O2 switches -bank 2 sensor 1 : ECM could not adjust fuel trim because of a lean or rich condition
AND
P0171 - Fuel trim bank one condition : The powertrain control module uses the oxygen sensor to calculate the Air/Fuel ratio of the engine. The computer recognized a rich or lean condition on one engine bank only.
Both printouts that they gave me mentioned the following:
Poor fuel pressure
Bad or Malfunctioning MAF sensor - Dirty/defective
Oxygen sensor defective
Fuel injector problem - Leaking or fuel pressure high/low
Vacuum leak on engine
I again called my mechanic friend and he suggested cleaning the MAF and if that didn't work replacing the MAF. I cleaned it and the problem was better but still not fixed.
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I have a 2000 F-150 5.4 L. I was driving from home and seconds after the engine went into a rough idle that wouldn't let me accelerate. I scanned it and gave me multiple transmission trouble codes, about 15. I checked the wiring, the transmission fluid and it all looked good. So, what could be the problem?
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Bought the truck knowing it needed a little work because it sounded like a diesel when running. So I had the timing chain, tensioners, water pump, etc. replaced and that fixed that problem. Then, a couple days later, a spark plug blew out of the engine. So, I go to do a full tune-up to find out that 3 of the 8 cylinders already had heli-coils in them.
I pulled those three and bored out and re-tapped the cylinders using the Cal-Van inserts. This has worked beautifully so far. I also replaced all of the other plugs as well with double platinum plugs. I also replaced all COPs. This got the truck running again and it drives great. No loss of power whatsoever. It just runs like a dog at idle. As soon as I give it throttle it smooths out completely.
It seems like the problem gets worse as the engine starts to get up to normal operating temp. Basically, if I am idling, in gear or in park, the truck shakes pretty bad. It kind of feels like it's starved for fuel or barely missing. I do not have any codes though and if it is a miss, it is completely gone under throttle.
Other things I have replaced within the past couple of weeks:
EGR
EGR vacuum solenoid
DPFE
Both PCV elbows
PCV valve
Air filter
Harmonic balancer
Other things I have done:
Cleaned IAC
Cleaned throttle body butterfly (including EGR ports)
Checked TPS voltage
I'm sure there are other things that I am forgetting.
The idle seems low to me but I'm not sure what is considered standard for the 5.4l. Mine idles around 600 in park once engine is warm and the needle doesn't move despite the roughness felt. Just going by the tach, you would think that the idle was smooth as silk.
Truck info:
2000 Ford F-150 XLT
5.4L V8 2V
150k miles
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I recently picked up a 2wd 2002 F-150 with a 4.2l V6 that has just over 300k miles. The CEL is on and I'm getting P1131, P1151, P0316, P0305 and an occasional P0301. It has a very distinct misfire from around 1,000 rpm and smooths out between 1,500 & 2,000 rpm, the idle rpm occasionally bounces (sometimes enough to stall), and the idle is sometimes rough.
I have replaced the plugs, wires, fuelfilter, and replaced a leaking PCV hose. As I have changed things the symptoms have improved some but they are still there. While capturing some livedata it kept going out of CL and into OL Fault. When it would the idle quality was crap and the miss was much more significant. I would have to put it into D hold the brake and run the RPM's up to just over 1k to get it back into CL.
After I got done with the data stream at idle, I set the parking brake held the foot brake and put the truck in D then ran the rpm's up to around 1,200 & held it there. The truck stayed in CL but it would cycle between misfiring for 5 - 10 seconds then clear up and run smooth for 20 ' 30 seconds, every time it cycled there was an audible click that could be heard. Also, the AC was off the whole time.
Live DataStream @ Idle: CL
CalculatedLoad Value - 12.9- 14.1%
EngineCoolant Temp - 103degrees C
Short TermFuel Trim B1 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B1 - 0.0%
Short TermFuel Trim B2 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B2 - 0.0%
Engine RPM - 816 . 846
[Code] .....
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I bought a 99 f150 lariat 4x4 with the 5.4 from a guy who said that it needed an oil pump. He said it lost pressure coming into work, he turned it off and coasted in. I towed it home and replaced the battery and bought a new oil pressure sending unit just to be sure it wasn't that.
Those things are so hard to get to. Finally I got an oxygen sensor tool on it and it was only hand tight. Rather than take it off I just tightened it up and started the truck. The dash guage read normal but the truck was idling so badly. Steady at about 1000 rpm and tooth rattling. 1500 with the foot on the pedal it evens out but still rough. Not sure if this was a good idea but I took it around the block. No power under 2500 rpm. Barely moving even. Just felt like there was no throttle response at all and again very rough.
Got it home and parked it. Now I'm wondering what to do to fix the Idle and power problem. Where to start would be great. And input on the oil pressure sending unit too. I suppose I'll have to get under there and replace it at some point anyways.
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My daughter has a 2010 F150 with 5.4, when pulling her horse trailer or extended idling her truck starts running rough, so far her husband has changed the fuel pump and 2 coil packs, no luck.
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I recently inherited a 99 Expedition 5.4 with 90k miles. I'm trying to fix it up so I can sell it. Like the title states, the truck runs rough but there's no check engine light on. I did some research and ended up replacing the PCV elbow and that made it run better for a while but now it's back like it was. It won't die, just a really rough idle and a miss while driving. I imagine it's probably a (or a few) coil pack(s), but I have no way of knowing which one(s) to replace. I would think that would illuminate a CEL though. I'm also having problems with the AC. Upon inspection, I found that the compressor clutch assembly was completely gone from the front of the compressor. I replaced the whole clutch assembly, then voided the system of Freon and refilled it to spec, still no cold air. The compressor clicks on and off like it's low on Freon but it can't be. I'd just sell it as is but in south Louisiana a working AC is a huge selling point!
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I am having a problem with my 1997 f150 4.2 v6. The engine is running rough at idle and while driving. It's running so rough that it vibrates the entire cab of the truck. I found water in the oil when I was trying to fix the problem. I have since had the heads redone and replaced all of the gaskets thinking this was the reason for the rough idling and rough driving. It wasn't; doing this fixed the water in the oil but still I have the rough running engine at idle and driving.
I have replaced the EGR valve, plugs and wires, pcv valve, replaced the coil pack, fuel filter and air filter (everything has been replaced with ford recommended parts because I have read that the engine I have doesn't like after market parts). While driving the engine vibrates and sound as if it's going in a cycle in a rhythmic sort of way (like a washing machine goes in a cycle), best way I can explain it. I have come to the end of what I think it is?
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2001 5.4L 4x4...Engine bought from reputable junkyard with 140K has new manifold studs, motorcraft spark plugs, and 8 coils (bought on Amazon).
No check engine codes...checked for vacuum leaks...And has rough idle.
Is there a reason it might have rough idle aside from blown motor? The mechanic was going to take it to get computer reflashed but not trying to throw money down the drain...
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