Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - Engine Is Turning Over But Starting Intermittently
Nov 7, 2012
The past week or 2 I have had an intermittent starting problem. Engine is turning over but wont start, but after i wait a second it will start up. I listened to see if the fuel pump was running and heard the whine. I checked the battery and the starter voltage and it was all good. i primed the fuel pump a couple of times and it started up on the first crank of the ignition. The truck runs great when driving and idling, no misses or loss of power that i have felt or heard yet. I am thinking it is either the fuel pump is starting to go or maybe the fuel filter is getting a little clogged up. Like i said up above this is an intermittent problem and that is why I am confused. Its a 2001 F150 4.6 4X4 ....
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I have a 2001 F150 XL, 2WD, 4.2L, Auto at work. It will intermittently crank but not start, also, my scan tool will sometimes not connect to the truck. The only code I ever get is 1 about not being able to connect to self diagnostics. I have narrowed it down to the PCM relay in the underhood power distribution module not turning on because it SOMETIMES only sees a 2 volt turn on signal instead of 12 volts. I have replaced the ignition switch on the steering column- initially I thought that took care of it.
But as I was about to put the meter away it did it again. If I remove and reinstall the diode that is in the PDM, sometimes more than once, I can get it to turn on. Are these diodes available from any one besides Ford? The wiring diagram in my Haynes manual is very generic and does not show the circuit from the ignition switch to the fuse box. Where can I find a GOOD and complete wiring diagram for free on the net so I can print it out and take it with me to work?
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My 2001 4.6L F-150 has been sitting on the driveway, used once every 2 weeks or so for the last 3 yrs. I came to start it a few days ago and it kept turning over but not starting. The key security chip is working, battery is charged, all plugs are firing, fuel pump fuse and relay check good. When I turn the key to ON, sometimes I hear the fuel pump priming, other times it doesn't. The times it does prime, the truck fires right up.
The times it doesn't prime, engine won't start. When the pump does prime, and while the engine is running, the pump makes a noticeable buzzing sound, much louder than normal. When the pump primes. fuel pressure measures at 42psi in the ON position, 36psi with engine running, and 46psi with engine running and vacuum hose removed. I believe all these are within specs.
My question is this: Is it safe to assume that the pump is going bad and will eventually fail completely? My second question is (and I know this can be debated til the end of time) should I get the Motorcraft or aftermarket? I have Airtex, Spectra, Carter, and Delphi available locally.
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I got an 2001 f150 4.2l v6, 5speed. It started running real rough almost like it was hitting on only 3 cylinders I replaced the crank sensor and did a tune up on it along with a new coil pack and now it won't hit a lick the plugs are getting fire, it's getting fuel but, will not start it's not throwing any engine codes. Which leads me to believe it may have a bad ecm.
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I own a 2000 f-150 7700 series with a 4in body lift. recently Ive had a problem starting (I believe it is from the shifter not recognizing im in park) but now my theft light flashes at me and there is a weird sound that sounds like a relay from under my steering column when i roll my windows down, move shifter around or turn on 4x4. also my radio stays one every once in a while after the key is turned all the way back to off, and windows wont roll down after i hear the relay sound. Ive read to tighten shifter linkage and will do that tomorrow to see if that fixes it.
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I have a 2002 F150. I have an intermittent issue with truck not starting. It turns over fine but will not start. Also, when having this issue, there is also no activity with the cluster when turning the key on (other than lights lighting up); the gauges will not move as they would normally when turning key on. I have checked every fuse inside / out. I have checked the fusible link at the battery as well as any other connections I could locate around the solenoid as well as disconnecting the ECM / computer and re-plugging it back up. Typically, after letting the truck sit for a day or so, it will start back up until next time.
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Just recently got a sweet deal on an 01 Lariat with a very low mileage 5.4L. I almost didn't purchase it because the oil pressure gauge will not read when you start the engine. Sometimes it will sometimes not.
When it does read, it is just past half which is the normal reading. When it doesn't read, it shows zero and the light is on. The engine runs fine either way, and the previous owner said it has been that way for years. The engine has been well cared for, and has been running Mobile 1 full synthetic for most of the 80k miles. The oil was not overly dirty at purchase, so I figured it to be a loose connection. I suffer from the cold solder joints that these trucks are plaqued with, as evident by the intermittent odometer reading. Do you think the oil gauge issue is the same thing? A cold solder joint? Or should i just start with a new sender?
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2001 F150 4.6 V8 Triton
Automatic
Battery Tests Good
Starter Tests Good - I saw it spin and come out at the testing station at Autozone
Ignition Relay (the one in the fusebox)- New (8mo.)
Switch on the firewall on passenger side of truck - New (8mo.)
Battery terminals/connectors - Tight, no movement, Cleaned within the last week.
Starter connections - cleaned within the last week.
I am having trouble with my truck not starting. The issue has been occurring on and off for over a year. Usually, it happens about once a month, regardless of weather.
I turn the key, and there is one click. Usually at this point, I can use one hand to gently pull the shifter "up" towards park and turn the key again and it will start. Recently it is not starting when I do this. I have tried many times, and have tried to start it in Neutral (is that even possible with an Automatic?).
With the key in the "ON" position, I go under the truck and jump the starter cellinoid. I am jumping the small post to the big post where th wire comes from the battery. I do not touch the post that the wire goes into the starter.
I am very confused because it starts just fine without fail and almost instantly when I jump the posts. It is drive-able this way, but I would like to resolve this issue, and resume using my key to start it since the issue doesn't seem to be resolving itself as it usually does.
A friend told me about the Ignition Starter Switch inside the Column. If I have time I will attempt to start the truck with a screw driver on the switch tonight to narrow down the issue.
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I drive a 2001 ford f150 lariat 5.4L. My truck will crank but not start, i am getting complete spark, and have ran a full fuel pressure procedure, and am getting complete fuel pressure, there is no water in my gas, everything checks out how it should. I ran a test on my cluster and it showed a code that said i am not getting connection to computer to start. I removed the cluster and repaired all loose wires properly, and it still wont start! I have had many people look at it and they said it could still be a bad cluster.
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My 2001 5.4 makes a grinding noise when starting. Not all the time but some of the time. it will always start but it is annoying. Need to know if this would be starter or solenoid?
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My AC clutch is not turning on. I do not have any AC gauges but if I unplug the compressor and put a meter on the 2 harness pins, I do not see any voltage when truck is running and AC on. I really don't know much about AC but I am thinking the problem may possibly be the low pressure switch or possibly low on freon. How can I check if I am low on freon without gauges? Where exactly is the low pressure switch located on my truck and if I jump the switch and the clutch kicks on, does that tell me that the problem can only be the low pressure switch or low on freon. I'm just trying to work through a few of the gremlins.
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I have a 2001 ford truck and it makes a growling sound when i am turning right but is not when going straight ahead wondering what part in the rear end could be making this sound.
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Been awhile since I've been on here...guess that's a good thing! Current problem...about a week ago my car stalled after starting it. I had been running errands all day so the engine was warm. Started fine, and then slowly died. My husband replaced the IAC valve. (My truck had this same problem 3 1/2 years ago...it was the IAC).
After replacing this time, it seemed to be fine. However today, again after running errands, the engine stalled slowly after I had started the engine. It seemed like it was trying to stay running, but then just slowly died. I tried starting again and it stayed running, so I was able to get home. It seemed to run fine while driving home. Also, no engine light has come on. Wondering what could be causing this. Don't want to get stranded somewhere.
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2001 F 150 5.4 V8 4WD. I have a weird creaking sound coming from the front end, sounds like the passenger side, whenever I turn right at any speed. What it is?
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After replacing the battery and starter...as well as replacing the alternator (bench tested good), I'm still greeted with one 'thud' when attempting to turn the engine over. The battery light is one in the dash. I've been through this scenario with more than a couple vehicles that haven't started in the past. I do the normal check the battery, wires, alternator, fuses, and starter. Somewhere along that line...it always fixes the issue. Not so here. I have to admit that I'm at a loss at the moment.
2001 F-150 5.4L
115k
Replaced starter
Replaced batter
Alternator bench tested good
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So i drive a 2001 F150 4.6L and over the last couple of years it has started pulling down and shaking heavily. I have taken it to mechanics and it always gave a code as a miss. well we replaced the coils and the plugs and of course it still has the problem. finally we did a compression test and it shows that #3 and #5 have no compression and the mechanic said it was either a blown head gasket, a valve or a cracked head. it has 230K miles on it so i was wondering what your thoughts on it were and also if it would be cheaper just to swap the motor.
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I have a 1988 Toyota (4 cylinder) Pickup truck, with a very intermittent starting problem, that is driving me crazy. It has had the starting problem for over a year now. Normally is starts easily, within one second with the starter motor, no gas needed, and it starts smoothly.
When it has the problem, I turn key, and I only hear a click, and the dash lights are lit, but no starter motor sound.
Early on I would call for a tow truck, but it usually started when they arrived.
I got angry one time and turned the on and off rapidly, nothing. Meditated for about 10min to calm down. Nope, still angry, so turned the key rapidly again, and the starter motor engaged, but the engine didn't start.
So I did that again and gave it some gas, then a lot of gas. The engine was running very rough, like all cylinders were not firing, then it spews out a huge cloud of blue smoke, and the engine evens out. That's my usual pattern now: turn the key like crazy wait a few minutes or even an hour, and keep trying.
It is usually fine for 2 to 7 days with no problems. But a couple of times it has had the problem twice in the same day. The problem seems to happen most when the engine is cold, or after a short trip. A few times, it has had the problem even after a long trip, when the engine was still hot.
What has been replaced in the last year? In this order: starter motor, battery, hot lead to fuse box, battery terminal clamps and wires, fuel pump, mass air flow (don't know what that is), catalytic converter, and master relay. (OK the master relay probably isn't related because rain water leaked in and dripped on the fuse box in the cab.) (Also it has 133,080 miles, and a rebuilt engine put in 4 years ago.)
After the mass air flow and catalytic converter change, the truck has started with no problems for 3 months. Now the problem is back! Same symptoms.
When they last worked on the truck they did a tune-up and they said the starting problem could have been caused by the starter motor not being lined up properly so it would "jam". That would explain why the starter motor wouldn't go, but it doesn't explain the miss-firing when it does finally start going.
I also notice that after they do some work on the truck, it starts fine for about 2 weeks with no problem. So maybe something is getting wiggled into a happy position when they work on it?
If this is an "electrical" problem, what can be done to find this very intermittent problem? Also, just before the the problem started happening again, I noticed there would sometimes be about a 1/2 sec to 1 sec delay from when I turned the key, to when the starter motor would go.
Attached is an audio file of what it sounds like.
1) starting normal,
2) turning key and only clicks,
3) the rough start after many tries.
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2001-F150 5.4 Eng. bucking/stumble. I think my problem is slightly different than what I am reading about. Here is what I get (125k miles):
* Engine only bucks/stumbles intermittently and not at idle or at harder acceleration (this bucking is really harsh and makes the truck feel like a learner trying to drive a manual transmission and it is jumping down the street). The engine stumble is not a regular timing such as a cylinder going out and staying out for a period of time. It is quite a random pattern to the jumping
* Originally thought it was humidity related, but now I realize it happens in any climate
* No stumble in neutral at any rpm... only at a stop if I put it in a power brake load.
* When the stumble shows up, it seems like the throttle is around 10-25% (my best guess)
* Sometimes goes days without issue, but sometimes every ride and virtually every acceleration.
* Normally no stumbling at highway speeds, unless going up a hill.
* Every time it stumbles, it can be eliminated by either backing off on the accelerator some, or hitting the accelerator harder.
* No engine codes or CEL has ever come on
* Fuel mileage appears to be the same before and after the trouble started
Here is what I have done to try to correct it:
-> Fuel related (bad gas)... tried to run the tank as close to empty and fill it with fuel from different stations... when this didn't work, I have added HEET to it to dry up any water in tank.
-> Fuel delivery... replaced the fuel filter... seemed to work for one day, but then the gremlins came back.
-> Fuel delivery... ran multiple injector cleaners through tanks of gas.
-> Intake... replaced the filter.
-> Electrical... I don't believe this is related, but my battery died... parts store tested the system and stated the alternator was bad... replaced it, and took the old one to the parts store for bench testing and it was 100% OK... even thought the old showed OK, I left in the new one as a precaution. Only other item was a set of plug changes around 30k miles ago... I think I put in the super duper Bosch plugs with a lifetime warranty.
Current thinking and items I don't understand:
A) The bucking is so severe, it appears to be a random harsh loss of either fuel or ignition. A component that has failed electrically should give me a fault code with this level of severity. No trouble codes or indicators to electrically sense this disturbance...
B) For the fuel path, the most likely item is bad gas and I emptied my tank by running it as close to empty as possible and then used different gas and HEET to eliminate water. THIS MIGHT STILL BE THE CAUSE???
C) Another one for the fuel path is an intermittent fuel pump electrical connection or a weak pump from a pressure point. But if this is the cause, then why does it dissappear upon harder acceleration?
D) One last fuel thought is injectors... perhaps one or more have a range of delivery that they don't work properly... but this doesn't make much sense as at idle and harder accels are fine
E) From an ignition standpoint, perhaps I have failing COP's. I have not just gone out an replaced them due to my limited budget and the difficulty I read about changing them. Again, if one of these is failing in an either open or short condition, the computer should set a code for a misfire for the related cylinders. I get nothing. Hence my hesitation in making this change so far.
One thing i don't understand from the various posts is that the cops can fail under loading. what makes this happen as electrically, i don't think they can detect a load or not? it is hard for me to also understand why my truck would allow me to back off on the throttle or hit it harder and the issue disappears.
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I Have a 1998 f150 4.6 XLT and recently it has been starting on and off. sometimes i will try and start it and wham! it starts right off. then other times I just here the starter hitting and engaging but nothing. Replaced the starter, solenoid and still nothing. It does have an alarm system but the alarm light doesn't come on, also had battery charged and its working fine. I am really fed up with this beautiful looking POS. Oh and the wiper motor needs replace.
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My 2003 f150 5.4l has developed a slight stutter when I turn from a stop or go from reverse to drive or vise versa. I had thought it was the IAC so I replaced it but the issue is still there. There are no engine codes and it does not miss fire at idle or while driving. The problem appears to be happening only when the a/c is on. Could the belt be the cause?
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I have a Ford Taurus 2003 wagon. We bought it used in 2010. Initially we had the car checked out and only needed a transmission fluid flush because of a shift delay. We replaced the battery and oil changes for it on a regular basis. Last year, we had an issue where the engine would suddenly turn off while driving and then turn back on. The dealership said it was the synchronizer and replaced that. We also had then check out a burning scent and they said that it was from oil leaking from the engine.
I am not sure that they fixed what they said they did since it still smells and some times there is smoke or steam coming from under the hood on the right side near the windshield. A month later the car was still turning off while driving and the dealership said they didn't know why. We ended up taking it to Advanced auto parts and having the battery tested. The alternator needed to be replaced. We wasted a ton of money at the dealership... So mad about that and never going back there again. They clearly don't to a good job. We replaced the alternator.
So now, a few days ago, the abs and fuel lights came on while driving, and the radio also made a noise like an electrical surge type. ~10 minutes later I noticed smoke or steam coming from under the hood. What is going on with the car?
I am so anxious driving it since last year when the engine would turn off while driving. I have my baby in the backseat and I have already decided what to do if the engine catches fire. I want to get rid of this car and get a new/used one but my husband wants to keep it since it should be cheaper to fix then to get a new one. I don't want to spend a ton of money either, but I also want a car that will reliably drive us to work and daycare. Oh and of course the car works fine anytime when time my husband is driving it, but that is only on the weekends occasionally.
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