Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - Cold Air Intake Making Humming Noise?
Oct 29, 2011
I just installed a cold air intake on my 01 f150 with a 5.4 and as soon as i started it after the install there is a loud humming coming from the intake but with some throttle it goes away. ive looked around on some of the other threads that suggest the iac valve usually causes this humming noise but why would it go bad with the install?? also i broke iac breather trying to remove it from the old hose to install with the new hose so i just connected the new hose directly to the inlet behind the intake until i can get another one to replace it. could this be causing the humming as well??
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First of my truck is an 03, xlt 4.6 5-speed with 82,000 miles. Almost always when i come to a stop i can hear a faint humming that is coming from the engine compartment. There is no pattern or set way that this humming happens, it just comes and goes when at idle. As soon as you put load on the motor it will go away. I got under the hood today and fired it up, nothing, gave it just a little throttle and sure enough here is this odd humming. It is coming from in the air intake. Also while i was under there i noticed that the cable that is right next to the throttle cable is very loose, i am not sure what this cable goes to or if this could be part of my problem
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2001 f150 xl with 151800 miles 5.4l had it for a few years now I get a humming type groaning coming from up front. only when in 4x4 and only at lets say 25 mph to 45 mph .seems to be worse when slowing down especially the slower you get then around 20 or 25 its gone. it is still quite noticeable on acceleration and after 45 its gone. Truck has always been a little noise while in 4x4 weather it was an issue that had already started or if that's how it is. This is my first 4x4 truck.
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so new motor new intake , rear passenger side decides to leak when roughly about 10 degrese or lower and being -13 yesterday and-18 this morning.
last year it did this n i put a nother hose clamp on that rear tube and just happened to stop . n now back but the ting is that its not wet at all at the hose but at top of head bottom intake hmm . this is all just during the initial start of truck stops even before truck really gets warm
if i tke it off n its messed up i hope its warrentied even though i painted it. if fine i guess add some gasket maker ?
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I am about to replace the intake manifold and gaskets. I know all of that process, but first question is if there is anything i should do whilst in there. Second question; what can I do with my intake to get more power? Mainly just kind of wondering before I get my parts ordered.
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I have a 2001 f350 7.3 diesel, I am looking at switching out the air intake? Also, I have an issue with the code for a dual upper and lower generator fault.. I checked and only have one generator not a dual system.. The alternator is running strong at 14.1.. But I have noticed when I start it up it is down to 12..
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I have a 2001 F150 Super Crew 5.4. I had a leak where the water transfer connects to the intake manifold. I decided to get a new manifold rather than trying to repair it. The new manifold from Dorman came and the gaskets were built into the manifold. I torqued the manifold to specs. I replaced everything and it starts fine.
I can hear what sounds like a leak, but can't find anything. I checked every hose that is connected and they are all snug and connected. I had the check engine light checked and it said it was running lean on both sides (p0174, p0171). Also a p0122. I thought something might have damaged the Throttle Body Position Sensor, so I replaced it...but no change.
I'm still driving it everyday because I need to. It won't change gears so smoothly sometimes. The most noticeable problem is that the A/C doesn't work. It just blows hot air. And the worst part about it is...it does it even when the air isn't turned on! I just go around with the windows down...in 95+ degree heat...with hot air blowing!
This is my first time to attempt a manifold change out. What I should check?
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Replaced head gaskets on 2003 f-150 5.4. Now I can hear a ticking noise in middle of intake by #5 port. Maybe timing is off 1 link?
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Noticed the other day when I was driving on the highway my truck started humming when I was accelerating past 30. From a dead stop to 30 its fine, but after it starts humming. Its only when I have my foot on the pedal. When I let off, it stops. The sound is coming from the rear/under.
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First off I have a 1997 F-150 4.6 with 205,000 miles on it.. stock engine and tranny. It's been a great truck and never given me any major problems. But recently something under the hood (wish i could be more specific) makes a really loud HUMMING noise (almost sound like a trumpet). For example- say im driving on the highway and i let off the gas, this humming noise will appear and it is very loud, but right when i give the engine some gas the humming goes away.
Or also when I am driving through town, when i come to a stop light, let off the gas to apply the breaks, this humming noise will come about. what i have to do is stick the truck in neutral and give it a big rev (which i do like hearing my exhaust so it isn't always annoying) and then it stops. note though, it doesnt happen every single time i let off the gas, however it is pretty frequent.
do yall think this is in the air intake system? thatd be my only guess because when i rev the engine it quits, but one thing is it sounds like it comes more from the passenger side of the truck, and it seems to occur more often when the temperature outside is cold. im completely stumped by this one, ive never heard anything like it.
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I have an 01 Accent GL 1.6L. It will not turn over. Battery, terminals, and wires are all new. Alternator is also good. There is a buzzing noise coming from beside the cold air intake. I'm not sure what part that is. The part that is buzzing is where the cam position sensor is connected to. It also has wires that run into the firewall.
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Vehicle is 1998 F150 with 194k. The battery is 1 1/2 yrs old and belts and alternator are original.
Yesterday morning my VHF and dog tracking eqipment started humming with the truck running. The hum on the tracking eqpt. only happened when I pointed the antennae over the direction of the hood with truck running. When I shut truck off everything is normal. Later in the day the battery light came on. The battery light would go off if I kept it over 2400 rpm's. The charge on the dash was normal but as I got closr to home last night it dropped to almost nothing and the lights were very dim.
I am thinking alternator. What I am confused about is the humming noise in the background. The tracking eqpt. is completely separate from the truck while the VHF is direct to the battery with an iline fuse. Bad voltage regulator?
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I have a 1997 f150 with the 4.6l triton that just started to make a squealing noise. I have replaced a couple of pulleys that were bad but that did not get rid of the problem. It only makes the noise when I give it some gas and it is coming from around the fan clutch area.
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2002 f150 fx4 ... I changed both front cv shafts cause they were making noise and the u joints and I still have a clicking noise in reverse if I turn my wheel at all to the right ...
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I have a 77 bronco with a 5.0 efi engine from a 97 Ford Explorer. I noticed there is oil in the cold air intake area and upper intake manifold. I was checking on things and noticed oil around the PCV valve and on the outside of the cold air intake system. Should I be concerned about this? I have done some research. I checked the PCV valve and intake manifold gasket which appear to look fine.
The PCV valve rattles and the gasket is intact. Granted there isn't a lot of oil when I looked inside the upper intake manifold but thought I should write and ask if this is a problem or not. Should I just replace them pcv valve any ways and recheck it after driving it for a few miles? The explorer did have 110K on it but when we took it apart we thought the engine looked great for how many miles it had on it. We did change out the cam and timing chain but as far as the other parts, we did not replace.
I am also getting a unusual reading to not reading with my oil gauge. When driving for a about 30 minutes or so, My oil gauge goes down to zero when I'm stopped but when I'm drive off then the pressure comes back up. When I have it in park the gauge reads fine.
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I have a 2000 F150 XLT 5.4L truck. I noticed the AC went out about a month ago and since then I could hear the AC/Clutch bearing making noise. Well I went to start it the other day after eating dinner out and it wouldn't start. It sounds like it wants to start but it just doesn't have enough umph. I replaced the starter and charged the battery up to 100 percent. It still won't start.
If I take the belt off it will start and I checked the AC/Clutch and I can move it with my bear hands. I tried disconnecting the AC/Clutch fuse and relay but that didn't work. Is it possible that the Clutch is freezing up when I try to start it?
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I drive a 2001 Ford F150 4.6L , Miles at 175,000+ (a little more but no more than 176k)
Situation as it happened : Driving home from work for lunch, about halfway home I notice that my Oil Light is on and the Gauge has dropped to below the "L." Engine started making noise, best I can compare it to is to the sound of a diesel engine when it's idle. Immediately pull over after noticing this, shut off engine for about 5 mins, check oil, oil is fine. Turn truck back on, light is off, gauge is normal, and noise isn't as loud as it was before. Drive rest of the way home no problem. After deciding on driving the truck back to work (I know i shouldn't have but I have no other means of transportation, and I work at Autozone so I wanted one of my managers there to check it out) I turn on engine, everything is fine, no oil light, gauge is in the middle of the "H" and "L", only thing wrong was the engine noise, except like earlier it wasn't too loud or shaking the truck. About halfway to work, I come to a stop sign, Oil gauge shoots down below the "L" and the oil light come on.
As soon as that happens engine starts making same loud noise as before (diesel truck idling.) I push the gas to get past the stop sign, and instantly truck loses power in pedal and just shuts off. Make it to side of road, hasn't turned on since. Never had any problems with the truck since I bought it 5 months ago, changed the oil 1 time about 2 months after I bought it. I'm just hoping my engine hasn't seized up on me.
Not sure if this matters, but about 4 days prior to this, truck was making a rattling noise, almost like shaking a can of paint , under the front drivers side, in the suspension. Was told those were probably due to my sway bar link bushings being busted.
After some research on here and other websites as well, I have come to find out that this is pretty common in most Fords? Most people recommend changing the oil pressure switch, and others say it could be the oil pump? Was planning on changing out Oil Pressure Switch, and changing the oil filter/oil , and fuel filter as well. Not sure what else I could do?
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I have a 1997 F150 (truck in signature). In December my passenger side parking brake cable broke so I replaced both rear cables (front cable appears in good condition).
This past Friday the passenger side brake started making a grinding noise so I pulled the drum to find the self adjuster cable broken and the ratchet jammed between the shoe and the drum. I pulled everything apart and put new shoes (the pin the ratchet pivots on was broken off the rear shoe)and all new adjusting hardware (adjuster screw, ratchet, cable, and cable guide). The rest of the hardware looks in good condition (still paint on the springs and retainers). I got everything put together and took it for a test drive, it had a nice firm brake pedal (it's been a while since this truck has had a firm pedal) and great stopping power.
Took it to work today, and on the way back I stopped to pickup a package from the UPS store. I set the parking brake and put the truck in 1st like I always do. When I got back out to the truck to drive home, I released the parking brake but there was still obvious drag as I drove home (no good place to stop during rush hour), got out of the truck and it reeks of burning brakes. I pulled the driver side drum off (after it cooled), which was rather difficult, and everything looks to be in order except the rear shoe was not touching the post at the top of the backing plate. I checked and the adjuster was still all the way in, so that isn't the issue.
I pulled the parking brake cable out to slack the drum side of it (with the pedal released there is some spring tension from the pedal mechanism) and clamped it with vice grips so the cable was slacked and the shoes were then touching the post, and the drum could be installed and turned relatively easily, I then removed the vice grips and let the spring pull the tension out of the cable and the brake held firmly (requiring considerable effort to turn the drum). Is there anyway to adjust the spring tension on the parking brake cable when the parking brake is released?
Additional notes: when setting the parking brake, the pedal will only go down an inch or 2 before the brakes are locked up tight and the pedal won't move, it used to go down several inches before. also I noticed that the feral on the end of the drivers side cable (that locks into the lever attached to the rear shoe) is deformed, like the cable has too much tension on it. The cables are the correct ones for my wheel base according to Autozone but I'm starting to wonder if they are too short. Spring tension on the parking brake cable (when the brake is not set) causes the parking brake to drag. How do I get the parking brake to stop dragging? ("star" adjusters are new and adjusted all the way in).
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I've got a strange problem on my '01 F-150 4.6L 4X4. When the outside temperature gets below 40-45 degrees the fuel pump won't always run when trying to start the truck. You can cycle the key switch on/off 8-10 times and the fuel pump will run. The engine will then start and run fine. You probably have to use this procedure 80% of the time. It started this last winter. I replaced the fuel pump relay in the power distribution box under the hood but that did not work. When the outside temp warms up the problem goes away.
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So the heater on my 2001 f150 will only blow through cold air. I thought that I may have a heater core clog so I back flushed it with water until it was coming through clean and unrestricted but that didn't solve the problem.
Now, some things to note are a potential coolant leak. I can't seem to find one but I filled up the antifreeze about two months ago and when I checked it the other day it was more or less empty. I've filled it up again and I will monitor it for the next couple of days.
Another thing to mention is that no matter what setting I have the heater on (ie 'panel' or 'defrost') I get cold air blowing at the passenger side's feet. Is this indicative of a hose leak or something?
Also worth noting is that the intake hose to the heater core gets hot after driving but the outtake stays cool. This is why I originally thought I had a core clog.
Should I be checking my blend door? If so how to I access it?
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Lariat stepside, 5.4L with 150k miles. Loud popping noise, almost a clunk, when making a slow sharp turn. Put it on jackstands and did the normal tire grab and shake and found no issues there. Tie rods, ball joints and sway bar links all seem tight. Looked for signs of unusual rubber to metal and metal to metal wear and found nothing. The only thing I did see was the rubber boots on the upper control arm ball joints were split. What I have checked or if I am missing something?
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