Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - Blows Warm Not Hot Air?
Sep 19, 2012
I need to diagnose a heat problem. I have a 2001 F150 XL. 4.2L Manual controls. The a/c blows nice and cold, but when you put the heat on its not really hot, blows warm air. I changed the blend door actuator,it got a little warmer. Now that winter is around the corner need to figure it out and fix it. The thermostat, water pump, and coolant flushed before I bought it. Could it be the blend door itself, or is there another actuator I'm missing.
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Got a 2001 F150 XLT 4x4,4.6L, When you start the vehicle it seems to run a little rough you can drive around with it OK. Soon as you put it in reverse,It starts to really run rough..touch the gas pedal and fuse position #30 blows.
This fuse is for : Passive Anti theft Transceiver, Cluster Ignition Coils, Powertrain Control Module, Relay Coil on Plugs, Radio noise Capacitor, ECC Diode.
I have checked cables and connections, all seem ok...Relays are fine. Nothing seems burnt on the cable running from the engine to the exhaust. I don't see any wire breakage in the tilt Column.
Cant find a short if it is one.. Even removed the aftermarket Remote starter from the circuit ... still blowing that darn fuse.... What to check now, or what it could be?
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I have a 1997 ford f 150 lariat with the 4.6 v8 and my engine had a piston slap so I replaced the engine with a used one and I put a new water pump on the engine. My problem is the heater does not get hot and it only gets warm when I get on the freeway and the rpms stay steady for a bit. but when i idle it just blows cool air. the heat door works cause I can turn it to cold air when I'm on the freeway and i just replaced the thermostat so I don't believe its that. It weird because the heater worked fine before I changed out the engine so i cant figure it out. the only thing i can think of is the water pump is bad out of the box. Could it be the belt or does spacing on the water pump have something to do with it. nothing is leaking.
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Tested/checked the blend door, actuator, Low pressure cycling switch, compressor clutch and they all work. The accumulator does not condense, or at least that I've noticed. The gauge on a can of R134a reads 55 at 85 degrees outside. Anything else I can check to diagnose a problem?
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My AC blows cold for a little while, then it blows warm. If I wait and turn it back on the cycle repeats it self. I had the freon filled. Not sure what to do? 1997 nissan pickup....
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My AC has been acting up. It blows real cold most of the time, but every now and then the clutch kicks out (even at highway speeds), and it blows warm. If I accelerate, the clutch engages, and it blows cold again. If I decelerate, it stays disengaged. At idle, it will do the same, sometimes cold, sometimes no clutch. I added a can of 134 last week, didn't make a difference. I hooked up the manifold gauges today, and the low side was 45psi, the high side was 160psi. I let a little freon out of the system until the low side read 35psi, but the high side went down to 150psi. If I'm correct, the low side should be between 30 - 40, the high side 225 - 250? Why I'm seeing 35 and 150???
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I have an '03 Camry XLE with V6 engine, which I bought used later last year. The automatic climate control AC was standard with this vehicle. But when I turn on the AC, the light on the AC button blinks on and off, and it blows warm air. The first thing that I did was check the under-the-hood fuse box, which is where the manual shows a 10 amp fuse for the AC. PROBLEM...there is no 10 amp fuse where it should be, but to make matters worse, there is an empty slot with no contacts to accept a fuse as well. The fuse box cover shows that there should be a fuse at that location as well, but there is none.
A lack of info about relays in both the cars manual as well as the Chilton repair manual, accompanied by the fact that there is no fuse where the manual and fuse box cover says that there SHOULD be a fuse for the AC is what caused the confusion. The AC relay is called the "magnetic clutch relay"...why, I don't know. But I swapped that relay with a similar one that I know was working and the AC works fine. The new relay is about $14, and there is no fuse because there should be no fuse...the relay does the trick, I guess. Anyway, problem solved.
APPARENTLY, some things must get lost in the translation. The car's manual shows TWO fuses labeled HTR, or heater...yet describes them as being for the air conditioning system. Case closed?
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The air coming out the right front vents is cold; but, the air coming out the left front vents (driver's side) is warm. Sliding left ac slider switch up and down did no good. Considered fuse, but both left and right AC controls run through same fuse. Suspect bad motor for left side plenum duct, or bad connection, or faulty vacuum at motor (if motor is vacuum actuated). Considering removing dash cover to see if I can find the motor, but not sure how to remove dash cover, or even if that's the way to find the motor.
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When going down the road, the air blows threw the defrost and on the down hill it comes back to the vent.
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I took the dive into a new heater core, as the heater was not getting hot. These are the things I did while on my adventure.
1. Before reinstalling the hoses, I blew thru them to make sure of no clogs...water flew out the other hose..no problem..no clog.
2. inspected mix door not cracked or broken...no problem
3.actuator opens and closes ok, I assume, I can hear the motor run and the door thump closed...no problem
4. water and anti freeze level good....no problem
Start vehicle,let warm up, turn on heat.....No Heat...
5. check hoses at core, one is hot ,the other is not....Problem...
1997 f150 4x4 ...
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My 1999 F250 ld light duty has an AC problem. It only blows cold sometimes. And it doesn't always work when selected to AC or Max AC. It will work on Panel also. When it works it works great. It blows really cold. But it will work fine then I'll come to a stoplight and it will stop sometimes.
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1998 F150 step side, 4.6 V-8 automatic, 176,000 miles -
Heater begins to blow heat as the engine warms up - heat gauge moves up to normal level - running at speed, suddenly the heater blows all cold, the heat gauge pegs to total hot - the oil light comes on, the engine begins to miss - stop the truck, shut off the motor, wait 10 seconds, start back up and all is normal and away I go. Heater working just fine. Gauges are just fine. Have checked the hoses when it pegged to hot, and they are just warm just as if everything is normal.
Problem is intermittent.
Have changed radiator reservoir cap, thermostat, made sure fluid level and mixture is correct - what else to check? Computer issue?
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Every time that I hit the brakes, the headlights flash and the horn blows for about 30 seconds. I am guessing that it has something to do with the factory alarm? I do not have a key pad. It is a 1997 F-150.
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97 F150 4.2 auto with Simple trans pan gasket change because it was leaking and now the ignition fuse blows every time I turn the key to the on position. Ran fine before now what? can't pull code with reader with key on or off.
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My brother-in-law has a 97 F-150 with 4.6L that has no heat in the cab (blows cold air no matter what setting at HVAC controller). Heater core was replaced one year ago and T-stat was replaced last night. Coolant level is full and the heater hoses are BOTH hot so I believe warm coolant is flowing through the heater core. I am thinking that the HVAC controller may be at fault or maybe the mixing door in the HVAC plenum is malfunctioning. I have 97 rangers that had a broken hinge pin for the mixing door inside the plenum (a common problem with these trucks), maybe this is the same issue (I don't know). I am taking the whole dash out to see what the trouble is.
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It seems the local dealership has finally figured out why the rear ac blows warm while the front blows cold. It only took 5 trips.
The part # comes out to F75Z19A522AA or F75Z-19A522-AA. Its listed on Tousley and other online parts outlet but so far all that I have called said it is no obsolete and they are no longer available from Ford.
Rear inlet door actuator - obsolete part? Where I can find this part (I'll even consider used)?
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I've noticed that my X in the winter does not seem to warm up as it should. I watch the temperature gauge and notice that it barely gets to the first mark in the operating zone of the gauge. The heater blows warm air but not hot. I think its the thermostat that needs replaced because in other vehicles I would see the temp gauge rise and then drop when the thermostat opened. I've flushed the radiator and changed the fluid and not difference. I did find the heater valve on the right side was unhooked from the vacuum line and plugged it back in but no change from that being connected. Anything else I should check?
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I have a 2003 Ford f150 5.4. Heater blows hot, then cold, then hot then cold. When it start blowing cold it pukes out the degas bottle. I have burped it, did the combustion test to make sure not a blown head gasket, the oil clean, there is moisture coming out tail pipe but it has no coolant in it. flushed heater core, pulled water pump off and checked it, its good. Changed thermostat 2 times, put front on ramps to get any air out. I am at a total loss now.
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My 01 ac has worked just fine up until today. I got in this morning to leave the house and the air was only coming out of the defrost vents. I tried playing with the controls to get it to switch but couldn't. I assume its a vacuum leak, but where do I need to start looking?
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Here's the situation....It blows cold for about 5 mins, then the air starts to warm and stays warm. I just bought the truck 06 350 crew cab and they supposedly charged the system. I'm wondering if it has a leak but it should start out blowing warm air? I just wanted some thoughts before I start throwing money at it.
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I have a 96' Ranger 4.0 5 speed. While driving, if I put the truck under a load such as going uphill or towing, the air conditioner fades out and blows warm air. Once I start downhill the air will come back on. It is much worse when towing.
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