My 2001 f150 4x4 with a 4r70w start slaming hard. Once at speed in overdrive it ran fine. Then driving around 25 it would be fine for a minute or so then I could feel it binding up then a hard slam. Then it would drive fine for a minute and do it again. Mechanical? Electronic? Torque converter?
View 14 RepliesWhen either of my front wheels drop during articulation they seem to bind up. the shop says nothing is wrong, but i beg to differ, b cuz when i jack the truck up enough to get a front wheel of the ground i can only turn it about 3 inches before it locks up. what is going on!
View 14 RepliesI have an 02 F150 super cab Fx4 with a 5.4 engine. Earlier this week my wife pulled up to a stop light and the truck began to buck and jerk while moving. She pulled over and we had it towed back to the house. I pulled into the garage and something felt off, my first thought was rear diff clutches(the truck has 92k). I backed it straight out of the garage the next morning and it was popping and binding while backing up, it would move a little then act like it was up against a curb, then hit the gas, it would pop and move a little more. I popped the rear cover off the diff and the fluid was clean, and I did not see any metal shavings in it. Next I removed the rear brake disc to check if the parking brake shoes grenaded, they are fine.
Right now I have the rear end on jackstands, I put the tranny in neutral and turned the driveshaft by hand in front of the diff. It will turn in one direction and then not go back the other way. Not to sound ignorant, but is that normal operation of the traction lock diff? Next thing, while turning the driveshaft by hand, there is a clicking noise coming from the transfer case area. I slid underneath and could hear it coming from the case. Is this noise normal? I have no other truck around here to compare too. I have used the search function here at the forum, I am just not finding my particular issue. The truck was not in 4wd when this happened either.
2001 Super Crew
2x2 4r70w transmission
417k miles
4.6l
Transmission shifting hard when under strain. My truck has 417k miles and the transmission is shifting a little hard when it is under strain. For example going up hills when in cruise and such forth, no problems otherwise.
My question is kinda weird: Since the fluid has never been changed or added to for that matter (fluid level is correct) , should I change it now or just ride it out? It is still my primary vehicle and runs perfectly!
I have been blessed with this truck since I bought it new
No engine work
Changed DPFE a couple of times
Cleaned throttle body a couple of times
Couple of pairs of shocks
one O2 sensor
alternator
I know its a weird question but could putting new fluid in at this time make more problems?
I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew that cranks but will not start after a hard rain. The mechanic checked the gem module and the fuse box, the gem module looked good but the fuse box had some corrosion he thought from water so he replaced the fuse box and had a body shop reseal the windshield. The first time it rained it started right up but after the next rain it would not start. I went out 12 hours later and it fired right up. I wonder if I would be better off taking to a Ford dealer. What to do next.
View 2 Replies2001 supercrew 4x4 all wheel disc brakes. Driver side brake is stopping harder than all the rest to the point that the pads will smoke if you do a hard stop
thought it was the caliper sticking. Replaced caliper and mount. Still same problem. Thought possibly there was air in the lines. Bled all 4 brakes several times. And still the driver front wheel still stopping harder than the rest. I wouldn't think it would be the master cylinder.
Hard shifting from the car. sort of a slam between gears and while in gear.
Possibly a mount?
2010 prius III. Just got it about a month ago and I've noticed that when I go to close the hatch, it slams pretty hard. I feel like the struts will hold up the hatch to about 2/3 of the way down then it just drops really hard and slams shut while rattling the spoiler so hard I feel like it's going to fall off. Is this normal, or should I look into maybe replacing the struts?
View 10 RepliesRecently my brakes were feeling a little spongy so I took my X to a local shop who installed new front and rear brake pads and flushed the brake fluid. The brakes seemed to operate properly.
But, then while driving on the interstate in Tampa, I had to SLAM on the brakes but it seemed like it took forever to slow down. It's hard to describe, but it's like when you are moving at interstate speeds and then you have to SLAM on the brakes, the X just slows down and comes to an eventual stop. It does not stop quickly.
I do not feel any pulsing from the antilock braking system so I don't think it is being activated for some reason. This seems to only happen at faster speeds. I have no problem when driving around town and slowing down for stop signs or red lights. It slows and stops just fine.
So I took the X back to the shop and they replaced the Booster w Ford booster. I thought I checked it out as soon as I picked it up around town AND on the interstate.
But, today I had to SLAM on the brakes while on the interstate again and it is acting just like before - just slowing down, but not fast and without the antilock brakes activating (apparently).
I have a 01 Chrysler Sebring 4D Sedan. I have been working on cars many years, never done tie rods. This my first attempt, I messed something up I believe. I replaced both inner tie rods and outer ends. I followed what I thought was correct procedure., counted turns on ends coming off. Installed new ones the same amount of turns. Before I did this the steering was fine. Now when I turn sharp to the right or left, like turning in to a driveway, I get an awful binding grinding noise, and I can feel it shimmy in the wheel. It will even stop the car going hard right. I can see evidence of rubbing on the CV boot closest to the wheel on the pass side. I assume I messed up somewhere with setting the steering when I installed the Tie rod ends to the wheel hubs.
View 19 RepliesI recently started getting transmission problems with my 2001 elantra.. the car would slam into second gear and the check engine light would come on and it get stuck in 3rd gear.. The codes I am getting are P0720, P0715, P1529. I searched and i found that most people that had this problem replaced the input and the output speed sensor and the problem is fixed.. so i went and i got two new sensors and replaced them i am still have the same exact problem... the car drives good for the first 5mins and then it would slam hard into gear, check engine light comes on the it get stuck in third gear...
View 6 RepliesI recently purchased a 2003 Eddie with V8 and AWD. On turns everything was binding making the turn almost impossible to take. The front hubs have been replaced and it now has four new tires. This is a great deal as the Anti-lock sensors in the hubs were throwing a code and the bearings were shot. This made a difference but there is still some binding taking place. This truck is a daily driver so need to know where to go from here. I pulled two fuses that were listed as "4wd v-batt" but this made no difference so I put the fuses back. My mechanics Snap-on modis computer doesn't find any codes at present, so we are confused. Nice vehicle, but this is driving me crazy.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2003 Impala, total mileage little of 122,000 miles, I bought the car back in Dec 2014. When I bought the car I got all the paper work on the work the dealership did on the car prior to me buying it. One of the things they did was put new brakes and rotors on the front. Since then I have replaced the backs. However after about 4-5 months I notices that from the front passenger side when I had to slam on the brakes or was braking from high speed I would hear a grinding sound coming from that area. I have taken it to two places and both have inspected both the wheels and rotor's and say they are fine, they commented that the pads were not the best but more then adequate for this car. Of course when they drove it around it didn't happen and it doesn't always happen. Both places said it could be the pads or rotors but without replacing them there is no real way to tell. How can they both be viewed as good and in good condition and I get this grinding sound from the one front wheel from time to time when I break.
View 12 RepliesI recently bought a 1998 F150 with 4.6 . I've been having problems starting it after I drive it awhile... When I try to restart it, it just clicks out on the firewall... The difference in what I've read about this problem and mine is that after 30 or 40 minutes mine starts right up , so far . I know the battery is good and I put a new solenoid , battery cable ends and a neutral safety switch . I just can't pinpoint the problem...
View 14 Replies2000 5.4 4x4. 104k miles. Extended cab. Heres the issue, when you're at that spot on a slight upgrade and the tranny should down shift out of overdrive it will downshift kinda hard. Sometimes it does this and sometimes it wont. Its driving me nuts. I thought maybe change the fluid and filter and see what happens, but a tranny guy that I don't know from the other guy said dont waste your money its more than likely a broken spring behind a piston. I put a new motor in this truck about 10k ago so I can wrench. It did this before the motor swap too.
View 10 RepliesHave an 01 f150 super crew 4x4 with 5.4 li shifts hard from 1st to 2nd - What could be the problem?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 F-150 4.2L that is hard to start when warm. Cold starts are no problem, except in the below 0 F stretch last winter. Also when it is a hot start it is not an issue. Only when it has sat for a few hours does it have an issue. The following is the list of things that have been done.
- New Plugs,
- New Plug Wires,
- New Coil Pack,
- New Fuel Filter,
- Clean Throttle Body,
- Clean Mass Air Sensor,
- Clean Idle Bypass,
- Replace EGR Vacuum Control Switch,
- Manifold Leak Repair (Ford Dealer),
- Throttle Body Stop Adjusted for more idle speed,
- Check fuel pressure (40 psi key on, drops to 35 psi static).
Its not the tires/wheels. I just had them balanced. It only shakes when hard accelerating. If I am easy on it, then smooth as can be. It gets worse with the RPM of the engine. I am thinking its in the tranny.
It still shifts smooth and I have been pulling 17 mpg on the interstate with it. So I know its acting correctly? Could I have blown something in the trans or ballooned the torque converter?
It just started the other day, I drove about 350 miles on vacation and noticed it when I went to come home. Like i said it only shakes when you lay in to the throttle, and it gets kinda violent.
01' Screw 5.4 4wd. Went camping this past weekend and it was the first outing for this truck our TT weighs 6k. When accelerating from a dead stop going straight I'm getting a rumble strip like vibration that last a second. If I take off very easy it doesn't do it. I've seen similar post but no definitive solutions. This truck has less then a 100k on it and so far I've changed the trans filter/fluid rear end oil with modifier and new spark plugs.
Once I'm rolling and hammer down it won't do it. It's more of a annoyance then anything.
My son just bought a 97 F150 with the back brakes blocked off. The front brakes had about full pedal when the was on. We changed the front calipers and brake pads. Bled them came back with great brakes (with back brakes blocked).
Then we found out the back calipers was none so we bought all new parts for both back brakes, found some leaks in the rear lines fixed them. Now we bled the brakes with the motor off till no air came out. Solid pedal. Then turned on the motor and the pedal goes down 3/4 of the way now easy.
Stops on snow good no tire sliding. Turn off the motor has solid pedal again.
I just had my tranny rebuilt it doesn't shift hard all the time but it does from time to time going from 2nd -3rd and 3rd -4th I thought being new it may need to soak up some fluid so the bands can swell so I ask the shop that rebuilt it that question he said they soaked them as they rebuilt it so they should be swollen already then he proceeded to tell me it was electrical is he telling me the truth because the ck engine light isn't showing any faults and if it was electric shouldn't that have been fixed in the shop while it was being rebuilt if it was interior electronic?
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