Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - All The Lights Pulsate At A Steady Rate When Running
Jun 15, 2013
2001 F150 4x4 5.4 gasoline, 200k miles
I have had the vehicle for about 3 years now. One thing I noticed when originally I got it, was that all the lights, headlights, tail lights, dome light, instrument panel lights would pulsate at a steady rate when it was running. It did not matter whether it was idling or doing 70 on the highway.
When I bought the truck, the stock plastic headlights had long since seen better days. So shortly after I bought it, I swapped out the headlights with new high intensity ones. Each side has it's own high voltage power supply. They have worked fine since I installed them.
Tonight I left the truck running when I parked, and I got out and looked at all the lights. Headlights are fine and steady.
All the other lights, parking, instrument, tail, dome, are still pulsing. It is a steady constant pulsation of less than 1/2 second pulse. The only light that was not visibly pulsing was the digital display on the radio.
What could be the culprit here? Ignition noise? I have never replaced the alternator. It may be original. The battery is less than a year old. Again, it's done this pulsing since day 1, when I bought it used and BEFORE I replaced the stock headlights.
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So I decided to start the year with fresh oil. Like the hundreds of oil changes before, i changed the filter and added new oil. Only this time, oil started to drip off the bottom of the Oil filter at an alarming rate, only when the engine was running.
I figured the filter didn't seal well, so I repeated the oil change process. nothing changed, still leaking.
It was really cold (-10 C) when I did the oil change, I mention this in case it is a contributing consideration.
My truck is a 2000.
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Checked fuses, still can't find short or reason I don't have running lights. Which fuse the running lights operate on, maybe I can trace it backwards from fuse box.
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Trailer light dont work right. If the running lights are on the brakes dont work. If the running lights are off the brake lights work fine. I cant drive at night this is a huge issue for an up and coming transporter. Its not the trailer lights ive eliminated that with my plug checker. Is it the rely? Blown fuse? Or common ford electrical mess up?
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I had just replaced my the fuel pressure regulator in the fuel bowl because it appeared to be leaking from where the FPR is, now with the new FPR , it is no longer leaking from there but now leaking (fast steady leak while running) from the fuel rail outlet fitting... How do you replace these, why all of the sudden it started leaking there ???
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My heater core must have sprung a leak this week. Not that I need heat in this weather but just the smell of it while running the A/C just stinks. I know I am going to have to replace it myself but just for S&G, what would a dealer charge to replace it?
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I have an 01 F150 SuperCrew with factory keyless entry fobs. I would like to be able to leave my truck running, take the keyless entry fob with me, and then lock the doors. Currently, the keyless entry fobs are disabled when the truck is running and I'd be locked out of the truck. I've had newer Fords that would allow the fobs to stay active with the vehicle running. Do this can be programmed into the truck?
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2 questions regarding our 2001 F150 Supercrew. My 2 questions are:
My 2001 Ford F150 Supercrew (5.4L, 230,000 miles)has the check engine light on with the code reader telling me that it is the P0174. The truck would run rough when cold (usually in the mornings) and sometimes it would get close to stalling out when coming to a stop light. So we would quickly put it in park and give it some gas to rev it up a bit. After the truck gets warmed up, it runs great with no hint of the rough idle. Since this all started I have changed out the PCV valve and replaced the PCV hose (including the elbow). I have also replaced the Idle Air Control unit but that didn't really make a difference.
We then experienced a cylinder #4 misfire which we resolved by changing out the cop with a new Motorcraft unit. The misfire went away but we still had the problem of running rough at idle to the point of stalling out at stops when the engine is cold. A few weeks ago we cleaned the MAF sensor and that seemed to work. The truck doesn't run as rough now (when cold) at stop-lights, but occasionally it will still have the loping idle. We cleared the check engine code and it stayed off for about a week before returning.
I don't know what else to check other than trying to see if there is some type of vacuum leak, but I don't have access to a smoke machine nor would I know how or where to hook one up. Removing and cleaning the throttle body would work? What could be causing the trouble, or what I should do to further isolate or troubleshoot the problem? I saw a you-tube video on the F150 intake manifold gasket possibly being the problem and although I hope that isn't the trouble with my truck, if it is then I will have to deal with it. We need the truck to get to work and the car is now due for a registration renewal, but we can't get a California smog certificate with the check engine light on.
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2001 F350 with 5.4 ... No leaking brake lines. The bad calipers have been replaced. Brake system doesnt seem to build pressure when the truck is running. The pedal gets stiff when the truck is shut off but when its started the pedal goes to the floor. Just put in a new booster and master cylinder. Flushed and blead all the lines several times now and got all the air out and am now getting a nice solid stream of fluid.
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Yesterday I changed two burned out light-bulbs in the a/c control panel. When I tested them after dark they worked as designed. An hour or so later my brother-in-law called me to tell me my interior lights were on. When I walked out to check the lights were off. This morning my wife drove the truck to the store and called me to tell me the interior lights were staying on. Didn't have this problem before replacing those burned out bulbs.
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2001 F150 5.4 Auto ... Truck was running excellent. Engine light and overdrive light begins to blink and it acts like its running out of fuel or water in gas. Baring made it home. Cleared the code and it comes back. Transmission seems fine.
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I've got a 2001 f150 XLT and I've checked the Haynes manual and searched Google but I'm having no luck.
I'm trying to locate the sensor for the Automatic Head Lights.
I had a small "spill" on the dash at night and immediately the lights started to blink and click. It fixed itself but sometimes it will do a weird little "click, click noise" change thing. I would like to clean the sensor or ensure it's not partially blocked.
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There is a steady noise which sounds like it is coming from underneath in the center of the car. The noise is consistent at speeds up to 50 kmh (maximum speed where I live). 2003 Santa Fe 2.7l ....
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Got an 07 Screw with only 50,000 miles. Yesterday, wife drove it home from work and said it would only do 45mph and didn't sound good. No warning lights were on, she said. I test drove it in the evening and it ran totally fine. Today, she drives it to work and said it ran real rough and "Check Engine" light was on. I picked it up from her work and it idles very rough and slow, and once you hit about 2000 rpm, it runs decent, maybe even normal. Below that, it stumbles and engine doesn't sound right. "Check Engine" light is either ON steady, or flashing. I don't have a code reader, so its likely going to the Ford Dealer Monday. Is there any way to read the code without a reader?
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I've tried everything I can think of and it still runs sluggish.
1. Had dealer change plugs
2. Changed Cop's
3. Cleaned MAF sensor
The 5.4L has slight miss and doesn't respond well at all when trying to pass or going uphills.
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My passenger side front signal light works properly, but when I turn my hazard lights on it will not blink normally (the other 3 blink). Inside my truck when looking at my dash I see the small green blinking arrow for the left signal, but not for the right when the hazards are on. When using the signal normally, I see the small blinking green arrow for the right signal though.
1997 F150 Supercab, 4.6L V8
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99 F-150 V-6, 125,000 miles: I repaired the odometer connection on the cluster mother board! It now works great but now have no running (parking) lights and no backlights for the instrument cluster. I think (!) they were working before I pulled the cluster to fix the odometer--not sure. Fuzes are all good--I metered each with ohmmeter for continuity, and also have 12V to the right fuzes with headlite switch in Park and Head. I replaced the headlight switch with a new one but still the same problem. Have I messed up something in the cluster board or connections by soldering there? I don't know what role the cluster plays in feeding the running lites or the cluster backup lites. Stumped. What am I missing?
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1997 ford ranger 2.3l ...
I have my ABS light on steady and never goes away. This all happened when I had a friend work on my truck. Long story short, it seemed like lost the RABS diode under the hood and replaced it with a 'hacked' 7.5amp fuse. I saw this and was very disappointed.
So I first changed the speed sensor and nothing. I did the RABS code test and received 12.
My questions is whether or not that hacked fuse is causing all of this, and if it can cause long-term damage to the electrical system. I don't mind non-abs at all, but more on the long-term affects.
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I've got a 2001 f150 supercrew 4x4 with the 4.6. I plugged in trailer lights and now I have no brake, turn signal, or hazard lights. I've checked fuses and none are blown.
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I have an 01 diesel excursion and last night I came home and when I turned the headlights off the park lights/running lights stayed on. When I turned the switch to park lights on, they got a little brighter? After an hour or so, the lights then went off.
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I've owned a 2001 Chevy Prizm LSi for about 12 years and it's been burning oil at a rate of about 1 quart every 200 miles or so. No tail pipe emissions or noticeable smoke and no OBDC codes.
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