I have a 2001 ford f150 with a 4.6 liter v8, my ac compressor is completely seized up, I can't afford to replace the ac right now. So I would like to just get a shorter serpentine belt to bypass the ac for now, need to get a measurement on the shorter belt for my engine? and the proper way to re route the belt without the ac?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 Subaru Forester which has 165K miles. I had the timing belt changed at 105K per maintenance recommendations. I had the car in for service recently for brake pads, etc., and the dealer recommended replacing the drive belt for the AC.. which I did. 100 miles after this service, the car broke down unexpectedly. The dealer told us the AC compressor seized up... and this caused the drive belt to get caught on it and be shredded ... and with that, the sudden resistance from the drive belt on the crankshaft pulley caused the timing belt to slip out of sync and damage the interference design engine. Can that really happen? I surprised that this happened a few days after replacing a drive belt and wondered if somehow the service work done with the drive belt could have caused the problem. The dealer states the service work did not cause the problem. Is my recent service and damaged engine a coincidence as the dealer said or are they related?
View 3 RepliesOn my 01' the bottoms of the bump stops are completely gone. Rusted out to the point to where the rubber stop on the front lower control arm (if the truck bottomed-out) would go right thought it. The rubber stops are fine.
This pic was taken from below the control arm looking up. You see the rubber bumper and just above it is the stop (some what triangular shaped). the bottom is rotted away... Are these replaceable or repairable? They seem like they are welded to the frame.
I have 98 f150 with 4.6 starter went so I put a new one on wich was a hassle and it tries to turn but just wont as if the motor is seized. I had been hear a loud howling sound from what I think is the ac unit and the ac line burst after trying to start. Would a bearing or something with the AC be enough to stop the engine from turning over? Or could it maybe be a wire connection problem? To me it sounds like a starter trying to start a seized motor but I cant see that my motor would be out it only has 190 000km and the oil looks good. but we couldn't turn the motor over with a ratchet? The truck had been getting gutless. I am stuck...
View 4 Replies1998 F250 ld 5.4 4X4 4wabs. The front rotor was seized on THOROUGHLY bearing split apart (outer bearing and bearing "core" still attached to rotor, outer race inner bearing and sleeve still in steering knuckle), the bearing was fine fine until i tried to remove the rotor, any chance it can be pressed back together and saved?
View 3 RepliesI made a thread in the F150 section but maybe it should have went here. Anyhow I'm replacing the front shocks on my 99 150, and well the bushing was completely seized up to the bolt on the bottom of the shock and I ended up breaking the one side of the shock mount off with it. I can't see any easy way of getting it off, I fear I might run into the same problem with the other side.
Would it be ok to just bolt the new shock back on, sans the forward mount? If its just bolted through the rear bolt hole will there be too much play? I really don't feel like replacing the whole lower suspension arm on this beater truck, and I dont think my welding skills are up to that. I don't think my little stick welder even has enough heat.
I haven't been on for a while but new issue my AC won't work the compressor is not seized it just wont come on checked all the fuses and tried to check the wiring but it is so short then it go's into the main wiring harness is there a way to see if it is the compressor or not some way to test it? It is on my 2002 explorer 4.0l vin "E" eddie bower.....
View 13 RepliesI just bought a 96 f250 5.8
Upon driving home, i tried the ac again and the ac clutch started to smoke. I replaced the clutch with one from autozone, but when I tried it again, it made a screaming death noise upon clutch engagement. Is my compressor seized?
I tried to turn the clutch (not the pulley, that spins fine) by tapping one of the slots and bolts with a screwdriver/hammer. It was firmly locked in place. If the compressor was OK, would it have turned easily? If I need to replace the ac pump, who sells a good/cheap/reliable one?
I recently had a full tune up at 87,000 miles. My receipt does not mention any inspection of the A/C system. 50 miles after the tune-up, my A/C compressor seized. Dealer claimed this was simply coincidence. I think there is a chance that they checked the A/C Coolant level and may have not secured the valve. I cannot find on the internet evidence that this compressor is prone to failure at just 3 years (87,000 miles).
View 1 RepliesTwo weeks ago, I had a/c repairs done which involved the replacement of the a/c field coil unit and a condenser fan motor. Yesterday, the compressor seized up. Could the repair, if done incorrectly, have caused the part failure?
View 7 RepliesMy ac compressor has seized up and now needs to be replace at a cost of nearly 2,000. Maybe I can go a few weeks with out it, but I will not be able to have heat or defrost as the colder temps come in for the fall. Why this would happen? 109K on the odometer. The mechanic also suggested that I change the timing belt and the water pump (neither are broken) replacing these is also expensive. am I crazy for not changing the timing belt and water pump?
View 10 RepliesThe car is an '06 Passat 2.0T 83k. A few weeks ago my wife came home complaining that the battery light was on, when I lifted the hood I saw that the belt was shredded and later realized the compressor seized. I replaced the parts recommended; Compressor, condenser,etc., brought it to service station that does our fleet cars and had the system vacuumed and recharged. Now the compressor will not turn on, when I push the button on the dash it lights up but no a/c, the fans dont even come on comes on. The blower and all the related switches works but no power to the compressor. All the fuses are fine, and when the guy at the service station put power directly to compressor it comes on and works fine, he also said the pressure sensor/switch checks out fine. I even changed the controller on the dash, but nothing.
View 11 Replies1997 F-150 XLT Extended cab. 4.6L VIN 6, 5 speed manual, 4x4. Replaced speed sensor on transfer case, speedometer is not completely dead but bounces around. Seems to be about 10 mph below actual speed. When I come to a stop say at a red light speedometer drops to zero at about 20 mph or so. Cruise also inop. It seems like whenever I let off the gas to stop or shift gears the speedometer drops down but then goes back up but not to the right speed. It has the mechanical odometer by the way. Everything else seems to be working fine. New speed sensor did not come with the plastic gear so I had to reuse the old one. Not sure if that gear was bad or not, but it was the pink one if that matters.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1999 F150 Supercab, 2wd. I just replaced the front rotors, calipers, and pads. Before I did this, the front right caliper was locking up completely. Now, after the new stuff is installed, the truck pulls very hard to the left when braking. The harder you brake, the harder it pulls left. What should I look at next?
View 2 Replies2003 F150 4wd with auto climate control. My blower for heat and AC completely stopped working a few weeks ago. I have checked all fuses, i replaced the relay under the dash, i replaced the blower motor control module. I supplied power to the blower motor itself and it ran fine with no noises. I ran the self test on the controller in the dash under the radio and it passed. I am not sure what else to try.
View 7 RepliesSo I had the same , "noise" in the rear of my truck that i see other people having, at first I thought it was my tires, since I ran buckshots, so I switched over to street tires, and low and behold it sounded like I had buckshots still on the truck. So this thursday I pulled the diff cover off, and guess what i found!
The abs ring on the ring gear, was completely off , and the bolt that holds the pin for the spider gears was broken with just about maybe 3/8 to 5/16 of an inch left in the pin, right now i am still working on how to get that out of there.
also found a 1999 ford f150 2wd truck, 4.6 auto , that someone pulled a 1997 4.6 engine out of and put it in this truck and now it won't charge, and i think it's cause of the pcm needing to be reflashed. tested the alt, battery, everything is good, i just don't know if the pcm controls the charging system.
Pics will come soon of the differential destruction.
So today, I planned on switching the belt, idler pulley and tensioner since at least two of them are making noises. After taking all of the stuff off, belt, idler pulley and tensioner... and since I always compare parts I buy to parts that were in, making sure they are identical and I didn't order the wrong one. So first up I checked my tensioner and the position of them or angles are different, completely different.
So Google it to view a few diagrams and bang! it hits me... the one I took out from my F150 is for a non-AC... so back into the truck and I'm looking. Didn't have to go far when I realized that my AC compressor is missing!!!!
I keep looking around and I see that yes, I did have AC in it before I got it; because the guts are there but sliced! Great, so the job went from easy and easy I mean buy compressor and install; but now since the guts were cut, the PO sliced the thing out simply put.
1.) What are the bolt sizes that hold the compressor in place?
2.) Is there a wire connector on the compressor? or no?
My AC compressor failed so I replaced it.
I put in 1 can of R134, and I don't see the compressor cycling.
How do I remove the connector to the accumulator so I can jump it and force the AC to run.
I have a 01 f150 4.2L and a while ago the ac compressor clutch broke. I didn't catch it in time and the stress it caused on the belt broke the power steering pump pulley. So I replaced the steering pump and pulley and the compressor the accumulator/dryer and the office tube put the 134a back in and everything worked fine. three months later ac stopped working. I figured the condenser was bad so i replaced it. Charged it up still no cold ac. so i thought maybe the manifold that goes on the compressor was clogged so i replaced it. While I did that i said to myself well i should tear out the dash and replace the evap as well. so just about everything has been replaced on the ac system.
Aside from the cycle switch and the high side switch witch from my test both seem to be working. now here is the thing. the tube witch holds the office gets ice cold then goes to the evap but the suction line coming from the evap doesn't get cold and the ac blows warm air. this very problem is what convinced me that the evap was clogged and needed to be changed witch is why i undertook the task of tearing the dash out. in all it took 14 hours to do the whole job. now for the pressures that i get from the ac manifold low side goes 40 down to 20 ..... this is normal. high side is a little high. I charge it to 125 still no cold air. so i dump a little more 134 in. at 90 degrees high side pressure should be around 200ish i get it there still no cold air. I have just about replaced everything i can think of.
My air conditioning compressor is rattling and grinding. I am trying to determine if I need a whole new unit or just a clutch assy. I can say this, when running it's rattling, but when the clutch engages, it clears up.
Would I be right in assessing it's the clutch? 1998 250 5.4 .....
4.6L engine.......Well my A/C isn't working I just found out. The compressor is not kicking on. I checked the charge with my gauges and it is good so I don't think the low limit switch tripped, but I don't have a manual or anything and was wondering which number relay and fuse goes to the A/C compressor.
I also need to know which fuse goes to the power mirrors as well. I downloaded a manual from the ford fleet site, but honestly I haven't gotten around to looking at it. Not home.