Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - AC Unit Routine Maintenance?
Aug 5, 2017
Is there routine maintenance to do on an AC unit? AC feels a little weak these days. 2001 F150 315,000 miles....
View 5 RepliesIs there routine maintenance to do on an AC unit? AC feels a little weak these days. 2001 F150 315,000 miles....
View 5 RepliesIt seems to have difficulty starting during stop and go like on deliveries. Also has problems after refueling. Is this caused by a faulty purge valve? If so where is it located?
View 5 Replies2001 F-350 7.3L / 147K... Lately my truck has a strange anomaly when I take off from a stop. A few seconds into a routine gradual acceleration the engine gets a little "boost" without changing anything on the accelerator. I typically take off from a stop as if an egg is under my foot. And then bam! It's as if I romp down on the gas pedal. Not a lot of increase in rpm's and acceleration, just a hint. BUT NOTICEABLE! Even my wife wondered why I was playing with the accelerator. And, it only does it that first time you start it and take off. I had the glow plugs replaced last week. And it has done it occasionally before but increasingly since. No other changes other than pulling codes.
View 1 RepliesI have an 02 f150 xl, I'm taking the stock head unit out and replacing it with a Pioneer 1900. I didn't buy a connector I'm just splicing the wires together, I know I shouldn't do it that way but it's to late now, what my problem is, there are three ground wires coming from the truck and the new head unit only has one ground, I just looked wiring diagrams up for both head units and that got pretty much everything done, just there are two speaker ground wires that are black and green, and then a regular black ground wire, I'm not sure if I should connect them all together or cap them separately, because I connected everything up and the head unit wouldn't turn on...
View 2 RepliesLooking for wiring diagrams for a 97 gran marq. Specifically I want to hotwire, the climate control , to give me heat and defrost for more then 2 minutes an hour. I've got the climate control unit out of the dash, and the relays click just before the heat comes on for a few minutes. Of course that was an invitation to smack things with the screw driver. OOPS If there are no heater fuses hiding, besides the ones over the parking brake, I've now also destroyed the unit. Blocks of wood on the vacumm actuators, and wiring the fan direct will work with my unemployment check just fine. BRrrrrr it cold in the car...
View 2 RepliesI have a 97 E-150 with A/C. When I turn on the climate control unit to either heat or a/c and the blower motor fan control switch to any setting I do not feel anything coming from any vents above or below the dash. However every once in awhile I can hear that it is putting a small strain on the motor as the motor tends to bog down a little like it normally does when the a/c is on. When the heater control unit is turned off there is no strain on the motor.
I don't want to go replacing things and blowing money that isn't necessary on parts that aren't bad. I would like to get this fixed before the cold weather actually gets here.
The car is a Taurus Wagon. It does not put out any heat. It is a flapper door issue. I tried changing the blend door actuator as the old one did not move when the temperature was changed from cold to hot. Unfortunately the NEW one doesn't either, nor does it move when left hanging, not in the dash. It is an automatic temperature control unit. When I had the actuator out from under the dash, I could move the blend doors easily with the little lever, and get excellent heat, so I know it's not a heater core issue.
Everything on the dash unit, which includes the stereo/radio controls and buttons to shift the air from floor to defrost seems to work fine. It shows the desired temp, but won't go to it. I have checked two fuses that are supposed to feed the HVAC system. I have even installed a different dash unit from another Taurus to see if it made any difference. That included a second temperature sensor, the "Y" shaped thing near where the white hose connects to the back side of dash unit.
I admit, I'm lost. I don't have a good wiring diagram, and don't know if I could read it well enough if I did.
Is there a relay or something in the system between the controller and the actuator that I don't know about?
Which wire or wires in the multi-pin connector that plugs into the blend door actuator are supposed to be hot at what point?
2001 F-150 Headlights won't go off when i turn the switch off , all other lights due, this is the first time this has happened , had to pull the headlight fuses to shut the off ?
View 8 RepliesThe AC on my 2001 F150 didn't work correctly so I bought a gauge and a bottle of AC juice and decided to charge the system. The AC starts out cold and turns warm. I put the gauge on the system and the needle goes to the red portion of the gauge. The AC will turn warm.
Is there a relay switch that quits functioning? Is there a code I could look at to determine the problem?
I just purchased a 2001 F150 XLT with a 5.4 engine. If I start the truck and let it idle, it will hold steady around 900rpm's. If I give it a little gas and then let of (all while in park). The rpm's never come back down to 900. It hangs at approximately 2000rpm's. If I turn off the truck, wait a few minutes, start it back up, the engine idles fine again at 900rpm's. If I give it some throttle again, the same scenario takes place.
View 8 RepliesI need to check for any A/C leaks, and get more recharge to make A/C colder. How can this be done? Can this be done at home? What type of refrigerate do I need. Kings Ranch -102,000 miles.... 2001 F-150 5.4 ....
View 14 RepliesTransmission lost 3rd and 4th gears so I pulled it and found the direct drum burnt up, got new drum and changed all seals, clutches, steel plates, aftermarket cooler and put a sure cure kit in it.
Truck drove great until it blew the front seal out 250 miles later, took it to a shop since I was away from home and he said the clutches got hot so he completely rebuilt it. Truck made it 150 miles and lost 3rd and 4th again. He replaced all the solenoids also.
Transmission shop rebuilt it again and it made it 80 miles and now it will not move at all. We replaced the neutral switch, shift cable, and shifter handle on the last rebuild because he thought it was hanging between neutral and drive.
What else could be making this transmission keep going out? Could it be a bad case, bad valve body or what? We are at a total loss on what keeps burning it up.
I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 153K miles. I've been on a maintenance kick lately and I'm wondering, is it reasonable to start replacing sensors before they go bad? I've replaced both oxygen sensors over the last few years but what about the others, MAPS, TPS, crankshaft position sensor, etc? The Jeep is running great but I've been driving a lot more for work and just want to keep it that way.
View 19 RepliesNeed some input on miss firing on acceleration on a 2001 Ford SuperCrew F-150 Lariat, 5.4 engine. 200,290 miles.
Have replaced all spark plug boots covers (Sept 2012), number 1 plug (Sept 2012), 3 and 7 plugs replaced, 3 and 7 has heli-coil kits (2011) installed for blown out plugs. New in-take manifold (2010). New gas line filter, air and oil filters (Oct 2012) and oil changes every 3000 to 3500 miles. Have poured 12 oz. fuel injector cleaner in gas take two times with 6 to 7 gallons of fuel in gas tank (last 2 weeks).
Have No check engine light on for service engine but have had an diagnostic scanner analyzer plugged into driver side, in cab outlet, 4 different times to see if I have a bad coil on plug or other problems. No codes show up indicating any problems. The engine idles nicely when at stop lights but does have a slight intermittent miss at times when warmed up and stopped at lights. Engine misses when warmed up on acceleration (when it is under a load and on acceleration).
Had a mechanic tell me he could plug an analyzer into engine but couldn't guarantee he would find anything wrong. This sounded like a little snow in July to me and the mechanic didn't sound optimistic.
My AC clutch is not turning on. I do not have any AC gauges but if I unplug the compressor and put a meter on the 2 harness pins, I do not see any voltage when truck is running and AC on. I really don't know much about AC but I am thinking the problem may possibly be the low pressure switch or possibly low on freon. How can I check if I am low on freon without gauges? Where exactly is the low pressure switch located on my truck and if I jump the switch and the clutch kicks on, does that tell me that the problem can only be the low pressure switch or low on freon. I'm just trying to work through a few of the gremlins.
View 14 RepliesI need to diagnose a heat problem. I have a 2001 F150 XL. 4.2L Manual controls. The a/c blows nice and cold, but when you put the heat on its not really hot, blows warm air. I changed the blend door actuator,it got a little warmer. Now that winter is around the corner need to figure it out and fix it. The thermostat, water pump, and coolant flushed before I bought it. Could it be the blend door itself, or is there another actuator I'm missing.
View 14 RepliesI parked my truck yesterday and know the odometer display was working. Started truck up this morning and no display. My brake light (idiot light in dash) was slightly illuminated as well. The truck ran fine and when I shut it off and started it back up again, the odometer was still out but the brake light was off. Any thoughts? I saw a you tube video showing a cold solder joint on the back of the dash motherboard. I hate to pull that all apart if there could be something else that is simple.
View 7 Replies2001 S-Crew, 4RW70, 5.4L, 189,000 miles. This started two years ago and first became apparent when I made a hard/panic stop. In fact, the first time it did it I was going to go through a traffic light and hit the brakes at the last second so I didn't actually run the red light. The truck shook like it missed for a second. That was unlikely as the coils and plugs were relatively new.
Here's what it does. When sitting still, in gear and you let off the brake but do not touch the accelerator, the truck will start to move as expected. It immediately shudders as it passes through 3-5 mph and then stops. It shifts through all the gears flawlessly, has no sign of the dreaded torque converter issue. It also does it as you come to a stop- as you come to a full stop and the trans shifts into 1st it shudders just as you come to a halt.
It started doing two years ago and never progressed. It's been the same until just recently when the weather got warm again. It's gotten a bunch worse in the last week and now the truck actually feels like it is idling rough sitting at a stop. (It's not- it's running fine.) But it feels like clutch chatter in a manual. Fluid changes have been routinely done every 30,000-40,000 miles, trans fluid is clear and not burnt, temps are normal.
As I said, it behaves perfectly the rest of the time and even tows my 20' 4,000 lb. boat just fine. Just that initial moment of take-off and at the stop. If I hit the gas when taking off I never feel it. Likewise, if you shift into neutral and coast to a stop it doesn't do it.
Ok, did a quick search, found nothing. Is there a way to get CEL codes without a reader on '01 F150? I know the way on 80's stuff, is there on newer stuff?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 Supercrew Lariat. About a month ago I stopped to fill up with gas and afterwards it would crank but not start. After a few tries the engine would no longer turn over. My battery was 7 years old so I replaced it and the problem went away for about 5 days. Then the same thing, crank but no start. I checked all the fuses & called the local Ford dealer.
After talking with the parts dept. I tried hitting the panic button then the truck started. After talking to parts again I replaced the PATS transceiver. After 3 weeks with no issues the problem came back. This time I locked the doors with the keyless entry remote then unlocked them & the truck started. So I'm wondering what is my problem. Could it be the PATS module or something with the keyless entry module or some other issue.
I just had to replace a cluster for a customer due to the odometer light being out. I need to reprogram the PATS system in the ECM, I was wondering if there was a way to do this without having a IDS. I do have the AE with the FORD bundle, but its at home. My Snap On Solus wont do it.
I know you can do it with a GM by bumping the key every 10 minutes for 30 minutes...didn't know if there was a way around it or if the AE has the ability.