Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - A/C Clutch Not Turning On?
Aug 16, 2016
My AC clutch is not turning on. I do not have any AC gauges but if I unplug the compressor and put a meter on the 2 harness pins, I do not see any voltage when truck is running and AC on. I really don't know much about AC but I am thinking the problem may possibly be the low pressure switch or possibly low on freon. How can I check if I am low on freon without gauges? Where exactly is the low pressure switch located on my truck and if I jump the switch and the clutch kicks on, does that tell me that the problem can only be the low pressure switch or low on freon. I'm just trying to work through a few of the gremlins.
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I have a 2001 ford f150 4x4 xlt and it seems to be shaking violently in first gear when I try to release the clutch slowly. The person i bought it from said he had a new clutch put in this year So i don't think its the clutch. What could be the cause of it before I take it in to be checked.
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The past week or 2 I have had an intermittent starting problem. Engine is turning over but wont start, but after i wait a second it will start up. I listened to see if the fuel pump was running and heard the whine. I checked the battery and the starter voltage and it was all good. i primed the fuel pump a couple of times and it started up on the first crank of the ignition. The truck runs great when driving and idling, no misses or loss of power that i have felt or heard yet. I am thinking it is either the fuel pump is starting to go or maybe the fuel filter is getting a little clogged up. Like i said up above this is an intermittent problem and that is why I am confused. Its a 2001 F150 4.6 4X4 ....
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I have a 2001 ford truck and it makes a growling sound when i am turning right but is not when going straight ahead wondering what part in the rear end could be making this sound.
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2001 F 150 5.4 V8 4WD. I have a weird creaking sound coming from the front end, sounds like the passenger side, whenever I turn right at any speed. What it is?
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My 2001 4.6L F-150 has been sitting on the driveway, used once every 2 weeks or so for the last 3 yrs. I came to start it a few days ago and it kept turning over but not starting. The key security chip is working, battery is charged, all plugs are firing, fuel pump fuse and relay check good. When I turn the key to ON, sometimes I hear the fuel pump priming, other times it doesn't. The times it does prime, the truck fires right up.
The times it doesn't prime, engine won't start. When the pump does prime, and while the engine is running, the pump makes a noticeable buzzing sound, much louder than normal. When the pump primes. fuel pressure measures at 42psi in the ON position, 36psi with engine running, and 46psi with engine running and vacuum hose removed. I believe all these are within specs.
My question is this: Is it safe to assume that the pump is going bad and will eventually fail completely? My second question is (and I know this can be debated til the end of time) should I get the Motorcraft or aftermarket? I have Airtex, Spectra, Carter, and Delphi available locally.
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I have a 01 f150 4.2L and a while ago the ac compressor clutch broke. I didn't catch it in time and the stress it caused on the belt broke the power steering pump pulley. So I replaced the steering pump and pulley and the compressor the accumulator/dryer and the office tube put the 134a back in and everything worked fine. three months later ac stopped working. I figured the condenser was bad so i replaced it. Charged it up still no cold ac. so i thought maybe the manifold that goes on the compressor was clogged so i replaced it. While I did that i said to myself well i should tear out the dash and replace the evap as well. so just about everything has been replaced on the ac system.
Aside from the cycle switch and the high side switch witch from my test both seem to be working. now here is the thing. the tube witch holds the office gets ice cold then goes to the evap but the suction line coming from the evap doesn't get cold and the ac blows warm air. this very problem is what convinced me that the evap was clogged and needed to be changed witch is why i undertook the task of tearing the dash out. in all it took 14 hours to do the whole job. now for the pressures that i get from the ac manifold low side goes 40 down to 20 ..... this is normal. high side is a little high. I charge it to 125 still no cold air. so i dump a little more 134 in. at 90 degrees high side pressure should be around 200ish i get it there still no cold air. I have just about replaced everything i can think of.
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My buddy and I just rebuilt a 4.2 V-6 and stuck it into a '97 F-150 RCSB 4x4 which somebody gave him. It had been sitting with a bum motor for about 7 years. While the engine was out, we also installed a new clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, etc. We got the truck running yesterday by pull starting it (battery is not holding a charge).
The clutch does not seem to be engaging, as I had to pull the shifter out of gear so that the truck would not stall. The clutch does not seem to have a lot of pressure, but the slave cylinder is full. Is there a way to bleed these clutch systems? Is there anything else we should look at? I have not dealt with the M5OD before, and neither has he.
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Just got a 98 f150 yesterday and I noticed last night when I went to shift into reverse, with the clutch all the way to the floor as I tried pulling the shifter back, it sounded like the clutch wasn't engaged at all. Shifting from all the other gears works just fine. Ive found that If the truck is off and I start it in reverse it works just fine.
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soo a friends 03 f-150 w/ the 4.6 has noticed the a/c compressor clutch engaging while heater is on. clutch engages for about 3 seconds or so and kicks back out consistently but only w/ the heater on. a/c dose function property when using a/c functions... Is this normal or does something need serviced???
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got the 4.6, AC clutch is just winding like crazy, so Im going to do a cheap fix and jus bypass the pully. Now do I need to remove the compressor or can I just get a belt for a 4.6 without AC and just not use it?
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What type of fan clutch silicone fluid is used in case you need to replace some during removal?(99 ford f150 5.4 vin L)
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I have a '99 f150 singlecab xl sport 4.2 2wd 5spd with 139,xxx miles on her. Shes's a good truck, but second gear is shot, I can only get into it by double clutching, and that only sometimes works. I have a couple questions, the first one being what do yall think the problem is. To me and my friends it seems like the syncro mesh. Second, if it is something major, is it even worth saving the truck? I know she isn't worth a ton but I hate to go through the hassle of selling and buying a car.
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I replaced the fan clutch and thermostat on my 1999 5.4. Do I need to "burp" the system or anything?
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How can I determine if my compressor is bad or is the solinoid/clutch bad. Truck had sat for about 9 months-1yr. A/C hadn't been operated for an additional 5-6 months. It worked like a freezer before I parked the truck. When i started the truck back up and tried the a/c the clutch would try to spin but very intermittently, now not at all. What direction should I go?
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A few years ago I had the clutch changed on my 1997 F150. Afterwards the cruise control wasn't working. When I brought the truck back to the repair shop I heard the manager tell the mechanic to "attach the clip by the pedal" and that fixed it.
I just had some work done, had to replace the oil pan, and the mechanic had to remove the transmission. Now the cruise control doesn't work. I changed the Pressure switch but it didn't fix the cruise control. What that clip might be that fixed the cruise control last time?
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2000 Ford F250 crew cab 4 x 4 with 7.3. 6 speed transmission. I just had a new clutch installed and now I am have a grinding noise when putting it into 1st gear and when I change from granny to first it will grind also. I did not have this issue before having the clutch replaced. I have also just had a new hydraulic clutch kit installed.......
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2000 f150 182000 makes a rumbling noise from rear end mainly when turning at slow speeds. Thought it might of been axle bearings so replaced them this weekend to no avail. I have the 9.75 limited slip rear end but what I found out this weekend is that the axle bearings are for 8.8 , the 9.75 bearings was to big.
So does this mean I have 9.75 ring gear with 8.8 axles ? I have been using royal purple 75-140 with no friction modifier because royal purple says its it there.
But after doing some research Im going to go get some friction modifier and see if it works . So my question is how much of a pain is it to replace the clutch packs? What if I wanted to just put a different differential in and do away with limited slip ? Or go with a different aftermarket limited slip diff. ? what are my options , etc.
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I am having a problem with the clutch fan not coming on at high temps pulling a grade or flat. Replaced the clutch had the front of the radiator removed and all the debris blown out and replaced the thermostat. Still over heating and the fan comes on real late.
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My truck was working fine and I drove it to school one day and I was driving and I noticed the RPM was high and the truck wasn't moving correctly luckily I made it home and parked it now it won't move at all I can shift into gears and I put it in first and reverse and let off the clutch and it doesn't move like the clutch is still disengaged. The Slave Cylinder is pressing against the pressure plate to disengage the clutch and then releasing. I have a single cab 1999 Ford F150 4.2 V6.
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My issue started as simply a lack of air conditioning. Upon initial inspection I noticed that the compressor clutch is not engaging when I turn the ac on. So I figured the next step would be to see if I am getting voltage to the clutch. My Chilton book says to test this with the truck on, so I disconnected the harness from the compressor, attached my meter to the cable, and attempted to start my truck. I've found that the truck wont start with this cable disconnected. It will turn over but just never starts. Also the fuel pump comes on as it should.
I've repeated this several times. It always starts with no problem when the compressor clutch is connected. I understand that there is some monitoring circuit with the pcm so maybe that has something to do with it but I'm pretty fuzzy on how that works. Upon further inspection, it looks like I should be able to test my ac signal with the engine off, so maybe that's not such a big deal, but this whole truck not starting business is blowing my mind.
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