Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 4x4 - Front Wheels Will Not Engage When Turn The Switch On
Mar 3, 2014
When I turn the switch on the front wheels don't engage. I replaced the two vacuum solenoids on the firewall no change. I replaced the actuator motor on the transfer case and everything worked....once. Tried to go around the back of the house thought I was in 4x4 but front wheels not engaging again. buried in mud. I let it set there overnight. Went out earlier started it and put it in 4x4 and it started puling out front wheels engaged. As soon as I gave it a little gas the front wheels became disengaged and it wouldn't go anywhere. I made several more attempts and no luck. I did the vacuum test where you turn the heater on panel and if there's a vacuum leak somewhere the heater blower will default to defrost. It passed this test so I'm assuming there is no leak anywhere. Why it worked right after I replaced the transfer case motor and again only after I got stuck and it set in the mud overnight?
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Here's a little more info on the truck I'll be working on:
-2001 Ford F-150 XLT Supercrew Cab 5.4L Triton.
-Has been used as a work truck so it has some miles on it 200,000+ and it shows. He showed me the lower control arm and the upper control arms bushings are a worn. Some coming apart and others with cracks in the (the bushings).
-So might need some more things replace but need to learn more about the truck to figure out exactly what?
Anyway, I'm probably just scratching the surface of the work needing to be done on this truck but for now I'll focus on the more important issues since without a functioning steering wheel he cant drive the beast. Might end up doing some customizing to the truck in the future such as changing the headlights to give the truck a more meaner look, along with the grill.
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I have a 2001 supercab 4x4 with a 4.6 in it, it has 186k on it and the only issues I've had was a misfire not to long ago. I replaced the plugs and coil packs and fixed that issue. 2 days ago she ran fine with no issues and this morning I went out to go to the store and she wouldn't start. All the dash lights come on and all of that normal stuff when you turn the key. When I turn the key I hear what sounds kind of like a clunking noise towards the bottom of the windshield and the middle of the dash. The starter does not engage, no nothing, really confused here. I thought maybe the battery was bad so I put my jumper on it and tried but again nothing happened.
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I have a 1998 F-150 and when shifting into 4 wheel drive (manual floor mount shifter) the drive shaft from the transfer case turns but the wheels do not engage.
Looking for a diagram of how the axle works?
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I have a 2001 f150 4x4 with the 4.6 Triton motor, the front axle is not pulling in when I switch the selector on the dash, I know the transfer case is switching so that part is ok. I know there are 2 solenoids on the fire wall, my question is which one is which ? every store I call says one has the nub at 9 o' clock and one at 6 o' clock which one of these does the front axle, don't want to order the wrong one ? I checked the vacuum and the blue line going to the axle always has vacuum and as I read the diagram the blue line is 2 wd and the red line is 4 wd so is the 2wd solenoid stuck and preventing the 4wd one from pulling in or is the 4wd one bad ?
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I got a 97 f150 single cab short bed. My 4x4 shifter is on the floor and moves. I put in 4x4 and the relay clicks and the light comes on. Same as 4low. Front driveshaft spins but front wheels don't. Could there be a leak in the auto locking hubs? Also I want to manual convert the auto hubs. It can be done but how?
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Quick 4x4 always on... Is there a way to permanently lock the front wheels? My than ferry case works to engage the front axle. But the wheels are not engaging. I have put enough money in to it and would like to permanently lock the front wheels.
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I have a "rapid blink" when I engage the right turn signal. It doesn't do it all the time. When I checked it, the rear was blinking and the front appeared to be out. Changed the right front bulb, but the problem didn't go away. So, I changed the rear bulb. Still didn't cure it. Now I'm confused. I thought for sure "rapid blink" was caused by a bad bulb. What else could it be, Flasher unit? Bad ground?
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After getting the oil changed in my 1997 Ford F-150 4.6L with 150K miles at a local quick lube, I made one stop and my truck wouldn't start. I could hear the starter engage the flywheel, but couldn't turn it over at all. Oil was clean and full. I bench tested the starter and it tests good. I put a breaker bar on the crankcase nut and I could barely move it. Oil level was about 2 quarts low before oil change.
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My son wrecked his 01 Honda, front drivers side front. After replacing his wheel and headlight, his front wheels will turn left but won't turn right all the way.
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I'm having a problem with my ignition switch. It won't turn and I have to turn the steering wheel for it to finally work.
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I have a 2000 F-150 XLT Supercab 5.4 4x4 with the dash shifter. My front axle won't engage when shifting into 4x4. A few months ago the vacuum solenoids were replaced and they sound as though they are functioning properly. The diaphragm isn't moving the lever thing and i can't get the lever to move with a screwdriver either.
I know it has worked the past two weekends. Two weeks ago it was in a significant amount of mud and possibly submerged at times. I power washed everything pretty good immediately afterwords though and it has worked in between then and now. What could be going on?
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I have a 2006 XLT w/ the 5.4L engine. Manual transfer case, I'm wondering where to start looking for problems w/ the 4x4...the front wheels don't engage.
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The problem started with a front seal leak a few months ago which I had no choice but to continue driving with because of low funds. I don't drive much so a couple of quarts of ATF was usually enough to get me out and about for what little driving I had to do. I know.. a front seal is cheap, but I'm partially disabled and unable to work on anything that is not under the hood.
I finally scraped up enough money to hire a friend to replace the seal, but he had a life crisis before completing the work, so I had to get another friend to reinstall the trany... still had the leak, but I could get around by adding ATF as before.
So we tried again... dropped everything and put another new seal on. This stopped the leak, but we got some grinding/squealing noises and could not get the trany to engage any gear.
From reading forum posts and other sources, we decided to replace the TC which we just completed this evening. We got some more of the grinding / squealing noise like before, except that it only occurred the first time we tried cranking the engine, the 2nd time we got no noises, but again no gears engaging.
What to check/replace next assuming there is something we can look at other than a total trany rebuild or replacement. I personally find it hard to believe we could have gone from a tolerably functional trany to scrap metal just replacing a seal and the TC. Its gotta be something simple we overlooked !!
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I engage my 4wd all the time to keep it working and lubed up. tonight i turned it on and it was making a light clicking noise like a card in the spokes of a bike (not loud) and there was no vibrations or nothing that really sounded bad..what could be making this noise, what should I look for...
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2006 Lariat 4x4 Troubleshooting. My front wheels wont engage when I select 4H or 4L. No dash lights are ever lit.
I read up and understand how the system works and plan to replace the solenoid, transfer case motor and both hub actuators. I swapped out the solenoid and wanted to test that it was functioning properly so I followed the video below:
YouTube........
With the engine running and selector switch at 2WD, I pull the vacuum lines off and can feel vacuum at the supply. I then hook up just the supply line up (to the bottom port) and expect to feel vacuum at the other solenoid port (top port - what I would call the outlet) and cannot feel any vacuum.
This has halted my repair attempts as I am not convinced this is functioning and would pull in the actuators if they were functional. I know it's a small vacuum from a small orifice but I would think I should feel it by hand, no?
The solenoid's electrical connector is plugged in during this as well. I get the same performance with the old solenoid and the new. If I bypass the solenoid I can feel vacuum at the front wheel hubs.
Should I try a third solenoid? Seems unlikely I would have 2 bad ones...No OBDII codes at all. What to try next?
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On my 2001 Excursion the ac clutch went south over the weekend. I replaced the clutch with a factory clutch kit. Now the problems are baffling me.
I set the air gap at .020. The problem being when I turn the ignition switch on and turn on the ac switch the clutch does not engage. I still get cold air. When I start the truck and it runs the clutch is engaged without any problems, I turn it off and the clutch disengages.
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My son has a 2003 Super Duty with auto locks, but the front wheels won't lock even when turn to locked position. Also when it's in two wheel drive the front drive shaft and axles still spin, are the hubs locked up or is it in the transfer case?
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I picked up a 98 jimmy for my son and turns out it has many issues! The one I'm tackling now is the 4wd. Front wheels don't engage "unless you can't tell on these on dry pavement just to test it, but I don't feel it "crab walking" when turning.
Things I've done so far ..... New transfer case vacuum switch, replaced any tore vac lines "I had Hvac issue which is corrected now that I've done this" replaced cable to actuator under battery. It's a 3 button switch and lights appropriately when selecting 4hi or 4lo.
I can hear it engage and disengage and also hear the tccm click when I push the buttons. The cable pulls the actuator and the actuator moves and holds as it should which leads me to believe everything is working but why aren't the front wheels engaging??
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This is a truck at work, I had my student workers put in a new blinker switch, and when they were done it won't start anymore. The "theft" light is flashing on the dash, so I guess the PATS system thinks it was tampered with. How could you trigger this by changing the blinker switch? Does this have to be reset by a dealer?
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2001 F-150. I've got a leak around the warning switch and can't seem to find info about replacement. Is the switch and switch retainer screwed into the reservoir or is the outer ring screwed into reservoir and more of a compression type fitting that holds switch in place? Also, after removing and repairing will bleeding be necessary? Looks like everything I'm taking apart is above fluid level after I siphon enough fluid from reservoir to replace fitting.
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