2001 F150; 4WD; 5.4L; 198,000 miles
The abs warning light comes on. In to the shop which determines it is the RF abs sensor. They say the "abs electronics are integral with the entire hub so the entire hub needs to be replaced".
2001 F-150. I've got a leak around the warning switch and can't seem to find info about replacement. Is the switch and switch retainer screwed into the reservoir or is the outer ring screwed into reservoir and more of a compression type fitting that holds switch in place? Also, after removing and repairing will bleeding be necessary? Looks like everything I'm taking apart is above fluid level after I siphon enough fluid from reservoir to replace fitting.
View 2 RepliesAlternator warning lite comes on at idle rpm. Speed up rpm lite goes out. The gauge shows alternator is charging. Autozone checked it for me it is putting out 11 to 11.5amps running. Should be putting out around 13 amps, right? alternator bad?
View 1 Replies2001 f150 4x4. Newer brakes pads and rotors.. Maybe 6k miles ago. ABS lite just popped on and went out ... What could have caused it? Wheel bearing?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 Supercrew. On the passenger door, the courtesy light no longer comes on. It's the light on the door (not the doom light). If I open any of the other 3 doors, all of the lights come on including on the passenger side so I know the bulb is good.
I looked for a door switch, but did not see any along the door or frame of the door. How do I go about fixing this?
My 01 Super Crew 5.4l is missing at light throttle. Cruise control on flat hwy, no miss, slight incline, starts missing. Put my foot into it and either it stops missing or it covers it up where I don't notice it. No codes set at this point. It's got about 135k on it and for all I know it may have had the original plugs in it so I figured I'd change them. Changed the plugs, still misses. Shortly a code set, something about the EGR sensor (it's got another name but I forget what it is at 1:30am). I found I had broken a hose while changing plugs, fixed it, no more code, still misses.
When I sent my GF up to get the non-existent codes checked the parts guy sold her some Lucas fuel system cleaner. I'm figuring a COP going out but the cleaner pretty much completely fixed the miss, till that tank of gas was gone. Few tanks later and it's back again as bad as ever. I bought some seafoam as I've had good luck with that in the past. It almost completely fixes the miss but I get a rare 'bump'. What do I need to look at next? Can it be the fuel filter? I'd think no because I'd figure it'd be even worse at greater throttle opening. Injector? How do I check them?
2001 f-150 XLT V6 auto.
176k miles & original engine/transmission.
What does this mean?
My 2001 F150 has the ABS light on. I can startup and it runs thru the continuity test, light off, in park, no problem. Push on the brake pedal, no problem. Put it in gear and the light comes on, before you start to roll. Should mean its not the speed pickups, i checked them for ohms and 5 volt supply to each. I ran the scanner and got P0703 on the extended codes.
That normally means bad pressure switch on the brake booster. I knew that would effect cruise control and external leaks can be a problem, but could that be related to the 703 code ? Both "brake" related ? I am tempted to buy a switch and install. I do have the factory recall harness on the switch. And check for continuity thru the switch. Has continuity, but only a few ohms, not sure what it should be.
too it to see what's maiking engine light come on code P1132 comes up. what's that mean?
View 6 RepliesThe odometer light turns on and off (mostly off) and seems to be getting worse. The repair shop I go to said its a dealer item and they usually send them out to a specialized shop, the dealer said replace instrument cluster. I may not be the best but I would like to try a few things before I shell out the money. I read that it may simply be the connections at the Instrument cluster plugin which might just need cleaning, read another fix which involved Pencel soldering, Cold Solders on the instrument clusters circuit board.
View 2 RepliesI engage my 4wd all the time to keep it working and lubed up. tonight i turned it on and it was making a light clicking noise like a card in the spokes of a bike (not loud) and there was no vibrations or nothing that really sounded bad..what could be making this noise, what should I look for...
View 5 Repliesi just got an F150 supercrew 5.4L 4x4. has approximately 180k miles but motor and tranny run clean and smooth. issue i am having is the OD light flashes but no other service light is on. i had code read and said it was a Differential Feedback Pressure Sensor (DFPS). Replaced the sensor and hoses but still the light is flashing. i have not changed EGR as of yet due to money but was wondering if i could maybe get pointed in the right direction. the Tranny does not seem to be operating improperly except at low speeds it tends to shift between OD and 3rd on occasion.
View 1 Replies01 F150. Cranks but no start, will fire with starter fluid spray. Theft light fast flash, Check engine light on. Only have one key and don't know what the kid that had owned has done.
View 5 RepliesMy 2001 f150 is not starting up. The anti theft light flashes and then eventually slows down and flashes one time, pauses and then flashes two more times. The odometer still shows my mileage as I know some people with this issue just get dashes. I know there are passive anti theft codes that can indicate what is wrong but cant find a chart with any info for all the codes. I'm going to assume my pats transceiver module is shot. Or maybe the key simply needs to be reprogrammed? I checked fuses, relays, etc and didn't see any that were blown. What could be causing it? Or maybe there's a relay I forgot to check out.
View 6 Replies2 questions regarding our 2001 F150 Supercrew. My 2 questions are:
My 2001 Ford F150 Supercrew (5.4L, 230,000 miles)has the check engine light on with the code reader telling me that it is the P0174. The truck would run rough when cold (usually in the mornings) and sometimes it would get close to stalling out when coming to a stop light. So we would quickly put it in park and give it some gas to rev it up a bit. After the truck gets warmed up, it runs great with no hint of the rough idle. Since this all started I have changed out the PCV valve and replaced the PCV hose (including the elbow). I have also replaced the Idle Air Control unit but that didn't really make a difference.
We then experienced a cylinder #4 misfire which we resolved by changing out the cop with a new Motorcraft unit. The misfire went away but we still had the problem of running rough at idle to the point of stalling out at stops when the engine is cold. A few weeks ago we cleaned the MAF sensor and that seemed to work. The truck doesn't run as rough now (when cold) at stop-lights, but occasionally it will still have the loping idle. We cleared the check engine code and it stayed off for about a week before returning.
I don't know what else to check other than trying to see if there is some type of vacuum leak, but I don't have access to a smoke machine nor would I know how or where to hook one up. Removing and cleaning the throttle body would work? What could be causing the trouble, or what I should do to further isolate or troubleshoot the problem? I saw a you-tube video on the F150 intake manifold gasket possibly being the problem and although I hope that isn't the trouble with my truck, if it is then I will have to deal with it. We need the truck to get to work and the car is now due for a registration renewal, but we can't get a California smog certificate with the check engine light on.
2001 F150 5.4 Auto ... Truck was running excellent. Engine light and overdrive light begins to blink and it acts like its running out of fuel or water in gas. Baring made it home. Cleared the code and it comes back. Transmission seems fine.
View 2 Replies2003 F-150 v8 4.2 4x4 with 295k miles ...
Yesterday while driving in town going 35-40mph my F-150 gauges spiked just before the engine shut off. While still moving I shifted to neutral and tried to restart, no go so I was able to stir to the shoulder and park, turned the key off. Sat there for about 30-60 seconds and the truck started up and I was able to drive off. [added] Forgot to mention, there was no check engine lights or anything, when I drove off, it was as though nothing happened. Not sure if it matters but temps out here was about 105 degrees and I was blasting the AC (which seems to take longer now to cool things down a bit).
I've had the truck since '04 and the second owner, been pretty descent with fluid changes and such, in fact was on my way for quick oil change when this happened. The tech there thought it could be either the alternator (battery is roughly 6 months new) or the ECM.
I am posting this here as it is in reference to the 5.4 motor but in a 2001 Expedition.
My wife was driving our 2001 Expo the other day and the warning light came on that the windshield washer fluid was low. When she got home I popped the top the re fill the washer fluid and there was what appeared to be green coolant in the reservoir. It even smelled like coolant.
It filled the reservoir about half way which made me wonder why even though it was coolant it made the washer fluid light come on. I then checked the coolant reservoir and it had fluid in it but it looked brown and nasty. The motor is the 5.4. What is going on?
Just recently now the dash warning lights stay on or come back on shortly there after when the key is removed. I replaced the ignition switch. I can even leave the wiring to it disconnected with the same result. When the positive battery cable is removed and reconnected I can hear relay or relays clicking.
I pulled all one at a time next to the master cylinder in the two boxes. same result. I pulled all relays in the fuse box in the cab one at a time. no change.
Maybe related about a month ago the hvac fan stayed on. we had to turn that to the off position to remedy that. than it "fixed" itself. Starting points to check on this 4.6 with 361k on the clock 99% original....
1997..FordF150 4.6L 4x4 Manual transmission ~~
To start ... truck seem to be having misfire issues one day...first thought was gas tank was low and running out of gas with no warning from low fuel light. Made it to station got gas no more trouble. Week or so later climbed in truck that morning went to start it and felt like it was running off 4 cylinders, shaking, misfire and engine light flickering constantly.. eventually died left it off took the Harley to work...
Later that evening after I got home put scanner on it got a code PO453 "Evaporation Emissions Control System Pressure Sensor High Input".. Looked it up.. found the location to be on top fuel tank...first thought great gotta drop tank to replace sensor... after the scan reset sensor. Next mourning started truck ran great ..no engine light... took it for a spin no problems parked it. Next mourning going to work started it same problem...Shake Rattle and Roll...
Friend told me to unhook ground cable to reset computer... did it..left it for couple hours..hooked it back up..started fine..no engine light running great drove it 3 to 4 miles no problems. Took it to car wash cleaned it started again drove home parked it. Next mourning same thing shaky shaky...
Took to local shop to have it checked out (drove it there ran great with engine light on)... they seem to think sensor is OK.... Their thought P C M.. Supposedly took PCM off cleaned contacts and one of the mechanics drove truck home with no problems...next mourning same issue shaky shaky.... New PCM right direction ?
The past few weeks the dashboard warning light for my alternator/battery will occasionally light up while driving down the road. Whenever it does, my plug in voltage meter shows a healthy 14.x reading. It usually goes out after a few seconds, but will stay lit up for as much as thirty seconds. So other than voltage being too high or too low, what else will cause the dash trouble light to illuminate?
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