I have a 2001 F150 step side 4.6L that just stopped turning over to start. The engine rocks slightly when you turn the key, then nothing but a little electrical smell. Was starting fine up to this past week. Battery is strong and good and upper battery connections clean, has original starter solenoid. I am a weekend mechanic, my son's work truck, trying to do this myself.
View 1 RepliesMy 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
Ok so I was looking at my blend door actuator motor to see if it was working. Just took off the bottom vent cover, turned key on and moved the air mixture to see if the motor worked. (it didn't) Then I went to start the truck and all I get is the solenoid on the firewall click each time I turn the key. I put a meter on the opposite side of solenoid and I see 12v across the solenoid. I can't image i did anything while playing around by the blend door actuator motor. I guess I'm looking for confirmation that the next logical step is starter and starter solenoid. Is there anything else I could be missing? is there anything else in that circuit between the solenoid on the firewall and the starter? I also cleaned the battery terminals and the terminals down on the starter solenoid. I also tapped the starter a bunch and put a charger on battery and tried jumping the truck too. Everything else works.
View 10 RepliesI have a99 5.4 and its missing slightly when cold mostly. I'm thinking egr poss did tune up 7 mos ago so I don't think it's plugs or coil pacs seems to get better when it warms up...
View 11 RepliesI have a 1997 ford f150 V-6 4.2. My son was driving the truck on the expressway and it quit running. The toe truck has delivered the truck back to my house. The engine turns over but will not start. I shot gas into the engine with a spray bottle and the engine still would not start. Was going to check the coil for spark next. What to check first. Was thinking the problem could be the modulator or coil.
View 10 Replies2001 F150 4.6 V8 Triton
Automatic
Battery Tests Good
Starter Tests Good - I saw it spin and come out at the testing station at Autozone
Ignition Relay (the one in the fusebox)- New (8mo.)
Switch on the firewall on passenger side of truck - New (8mo.)
Battery terminals/connectors - Tight, no movement, Cleaned within the last week.
Starter connections - cleaned within the last week.
I am having trouble with my truck not starting. The issue has been occurring on and off for over a year. Usually, it happens about once a month, regardless of weather.
I turn the key, and there is one click. Usually at this point, I can use one hand to gently pull the shifter "up" towards park and turn the key again and it will start. Recently it is not starting when I do this. I have tried many times, and have tried to start it in Neutral (is that even possible with an Automatic?).
With the key in the "ON" position, I go under the truck and jump the starter cellinoid. I am jumping the small post to the big post where th wire comes from the battery. I do not touch the post that the wire goes into the starter.
I am very confused because it starts just fine without fail and almost instantly when I jump the posts. It is drive-able this way, but I would like to resolve this issue, and resume using my key to start it since the issue doesn't seem to be resolving itself as it usually does.
A friend told me about the Ignition Starter Switch inside the Column. If I have time I will attempt to start the truck with a screw driver on the switch tonight to narrow down the issue.
My brothers 2001 is having an issue with the fuel pump. It has a random no fuel pump basically the fuel pump does not come in, he turns the ignition off then back on and you can then hear the fuel pump turn on and the truck starts and runs normally. I'm not looking forward to dropping the tank to replace the sending unit so I was thinking maybe the relay is the issue? I'd eater do that than a sending unit job...
View 8 RepliesOk, have a 2003 fx4 auto trans with manual 4x4 ...I notice more and more that say at intersections, when I start out either turning left or right it feels like the 4x4 is slightly trying to engage, or a chuttering feeling..best that I can describe it. any thoughts, I have 106 K and do need to change out the diffential oils etc.
View 9 RepliesOk, heres my issue. '11 crew cab f150, 4x4 5.0L. 108K miles Yesterday got in my truck to leave and it would crank, idle very rough with RPMs fluctuating then die. Did this several times til it stayed cranked long enough for me to press the accelerator to keep it cranked. Headed out down the road and it drove fine. Then upon accelerating I'd hear a noise like rocks in a tin can. Every time I accelerated it would do this. Drove to a mechanic. He drove it, heard it and told me to bring it back today because he was covered up. The rattle sound is similar to valves ticking, but worse.
I got up under it and looked for loose skid plates and loose exhaust components and could find nothing. Took it for another drive,engaged the 4x4 to 4H, drove it for a minute, went back to 2H and the sound was all but gone. Went ahead and filled up with premium gas. (had an 89 ranger that would only run on premium so thought i'd try it) Drove home. the noise was gone. Got up this morning. The truck hesitated to start. took three tries, then fired up normally. then drove it....no problems. no noise, everything normal. Don't wanna take it to the mechanic, if there is no apparent problem now. What's going on with my truck?
As the title says I have noticed a strange sound on start up in the last couple weeks that sounds like rocks in a can. Noticed only at start up and then stops but I have noticed it slightly infrequently when driving. Truck runs great, no noticeable problems. I have looked under the hood and suspension to see if something maybe hung up and didn't see anything. Thought this might be the problem since I was following a plumbing truck that had plastic buckets flying out the back and I hit one!
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 supercab 4x4 with a 4.6 in it, it has 186k on it and the only issues I've had was a misfire not to long ago. I replaced the plugs and coil packs and fixed that issue. 2 days ago she ran fine with no issues and this morning I went out to go to the store and she wouldn't start. All the dash lights come on and all of that normal stuff when you turn the key. When I turn the key I hear what sounds kind of like a clunking noise towards the bottom of the windshield and the middle of the dash. The starter does not engage, no nothing, really confused here. I thought maybe the battery was bad so I put my jumper on it and tried but again nothing happened.
View 14 RepliesWhen I turn the switch on the front wheels don't engage. I replaced the two vacuum solenoids on the firewall no change. I replaced the actuator motor on the transfer case and everything worked....once. Tried to go around the back of the house thought I was in 4x4 but front wheels not engaging again. buried in mud. I let it set there overnight. Went out earlier started it and put it in 4x4 and it started puling out front wheels engaged. As soon as I gave it a little gas the front wheels became disengaged and it wouldn't go anywhere. I made several more attempts and no luck. I did the vacuum test where you turn the heater on panel and if there's a vacuum leak somewhere the heater blower will default to defrost. It passed this test so I'm assuming there is no leak anywhere. Why it worked right after I replaced the transfer case motor and again only after I got stuck and it set in the mud overnight?
View 2 RepliesHow to replace the turn signal bulb that is in the mirror on a 2001 f150 supercrew? My Haynes and Chiltons books dont say a thing about replacing this bulb.
View 1 RepliesHere's a little more info on the truck I'll be working on:
-2001 Ford F-150 XLT Supercrew Cab 5.4L Triton.
-Has been used as a work truck so it has some miles on it 200,000+ and it shows. He showed me the lower control arm and the upper control arms bushings are a worn. Some coming apart and others with cracks in the (the bushings).
-So might need some more things replace but need to learn more about the truck to figure out exactly what?
Anyway, I'm probably just scratching the surface of the work needing to be done on this truck but for now I'll focus on the more important issues since without a functioning steering wheel he cant drive the beast. Might end up doing some customizing to the truck in the future such as changing the headlights to give the truck a more meaner look, along with the grill.
My 1997 F150 with the 5.4 engine has 167,300 miles. My wife drove it to work the other day and when she went to come home the truck would not turn over. The starter would engage the flywheel but would not turn the engine over. I had it towed home and I pulled the starter. Advance Auto bench checked it for me and said the starter was fine, only drawing 36 amps. I have also verified the cabling from the battery and starter relay is fine.
So here is some history up to this point. Over the past four months the battery light would come on and off. I had the battery (only 8 months old) and the alternator check and both tested fine. At one time the check engine light came on and the code indicated a miss fire on the #3 cylinder. I pulled the plug (new platium plugs at 120k miles) which looked fine and reconnected everything. Since I disconnected the neg. terminal of the battery the engine code cleared. Once in a while the engine would sputter and run rough at 40 - 45 mph, but run fine at slower or higher speeds.
Since I had the starter off I used a pry bar to try to manually turn the flywheel, seems to turn in one direction but not the other. I have also tried to turning the engine over by hand via the belt and putting a socket on crankshaft pully bolt. I can not get the engine to turn over. So in my reading on the internet it seems like I might have a hydrolock. I have not lost any antifreeze that I can detect and I have not seen any white smoke coming from the exhaust. From what I'm reading there are two types of hydrolocks, one caused by antifreeze and the other caused by a open fuel injector.
Does what I am describing sound like a hydrolock and what is the best way to diagnose if it is caused by a leaking gasket or injector? Should I pull a couple of plugs on each side and try to crank the truck?
My daughter has a 1997 Taurus SHO and it's been running pretty well until this morning when a turn of the key failed to start the engine. The battery is fully charged but when she turns the key, we get the click from several places under the hood, including the starter relay. I'm pretty sure it's the starter relay, it's inside of the fuse box, is identified as "starter" on the guide printed inside of the cover and is black plastic about 1.5 inches square. The windows, radio, horn and all of the other accessories work, but no reaction to the key.
View 2 RepliesI bought some new leaf springs for my 2000 F150XL and noticed one is different only slightly, it being in the arch one is 7 15/16 which is correct, but the other is 8 1/8. how much variable do they allow, will it make that big of a difference or will i be able to notice it after there on. I am happy with them but don't want to put them on and then the truck set uneven??? the reason for replacing the ones still on the truck is they are twisted and apparently broke they are 2/1 springs and having the new ones i can tell the #2 spring on the truck now are shorter like the ends are broke off and the clips moved around allowing for them to twist, so i really needed new ones.should i put the taller arch on a particular side or should i just put them on....
View 2 RepliesI have a 1998 F150, had this truck for just shy of 200,000 miles, never a major problem and now she's killing me. Turn the key, no crank,no start, the same time this started the radio also quit working. I can start her with a screw driver at the soleniod (new by the way) runs perfect after that. By the way it's a 2 wheel drive with the 4.6 v-8
View 1 RepliesThis 97 F150 4.2 is new to me, originally a very base 2wd white fleet vehicle, with 189,000 miles, runs smoothly and quietly, idles well, transmission shifts smoothly. Gets reasonable gas mileage.
Problem statement: the truck has an intermittent starting problem. The failure to start happens about 5-10% of the time. The motor will turn over fine, but but immediately stumbles while trying to start. Turn key off and then re-start attempt will be again followed by a bucking stumble. Some times the motor might try and run for 2-3 seconds bucking and stumbling. It is possible the problem happens more often when the truck is warm and has been shut off for 15 minutes or so. Once the problem happens it is very repeatable. It won't start again unless I wait about 30 minutes to an hour. Once it starts it seems to run very nicely. I have noticed some times when I go to successfully start the truck it might run roughly for the first 3-4 seconds bucking and sputtering a bit and then smooth out and not have an issue until the next re-start attempt.
The truck runs so nicely when it is running I doubt it is an issue with the plugs, air filter general tune up. Could it be an intermittent fuel pump issue? The next time it occurs I will check fuel pressure. Could it be fuel pressure regulator? Also tested by fuel pressure. ECU? The truck runs very nicely most of time that seems like a long shot. Crank sensor? Bad fuel? I did add some dry gas.
I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew Lariat. About a month ago I stopped to fill up with gas and afterwards it would crank but not start. After a few tries the engine would no longer turn over. My battery was 7 years old so I replaced it and the problem went away for about 5 days. Then the same thing, crank but no start. I checked all the fuses & called the local Ford dealer.
After talking with the parts dept. I tried hitting the panic button then the truck started. After talking to parts again I replaced the PATS transceiver. After 3 weeks with no issues the problem came back. This time I locked the doors with the keyless entry remote then unlocked them & the truck started. So I'm wondering what is my problem. Could it be the PATS module or something with the keyless entry module or some other issue.
F-150 Super Crew 5.4 4X4 cranks won't start. what and where do I check first?
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