Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2000 XLT V6 - How To Get Rear Hub Off
Nov 29, 2015
I am having a hell of a time getting this off. How to do it? Its a 02 f150 xlt with a 4.2 v6...
View 11 RepliesI am having a hell of a time getting this off. How to do it? Its a 02 f150 xlt with a 4.2 v6...
View 11 RepliesI have a 2000 F150 Super Cab and my son slammed the rear door shut on the passenger side and now it will not open. I can feel the cable flopping around up high in the door, but it is still attached at the mechanism inside the panel. Here's what I have done thus far:
- Pulled the panels off and checked the cables. All are attached at the door lever mechanism under the rear window.
- Pulled the rubber seal back at the top to expose the latch.
- Took a wire coat hanger bent straight and tried in vain to release the upper latch.
- Since it is shut, I can't remove both screws holding the latch in, thus I can't simply take it off and move it to a position where I might get to it easier.
I just replaced the engine in my F--150 with one from a van that had only 60K miles on it. It still runs rough and misses. Not as bad as the earlier engine that had dropped a valve. While trying to find the problem, I moved a large vacuum? hose at the rear of the engine maybe 1 inch diameter and it nearly fell off the barb at the back It is also connected at the other end to some type of small metal can. When I pulled on this it fell off and the engine died.
Also need the smaller 5/8 in diameter hose at front of air intake tube. I need a size or a pert number for this hose as I cannot crawl back onto the motor very many times due to a spinal problem. I would like to get this hose and then get under the firewall only one time. I am having issues with this truck, bought is used at auction running rough. Replaced engine with one that was supposed to be a good one, but it runs rough again..
I need to add that New platinum [plugs were installed and the coils were off the old engine that had maybe 50 miles on them and were from NAPA. I only hope htis hose is my problem. However I cannot find any part number or anything on it...
I have a 2000 F150 with 4.6l triton 125k miles. i have a bad miss ONLY between 1500 and 2000 rpm. This will happen in any gear and in neutral, but only between those rpm's. seems to happen more constant in warm weather. This miss is so bad it feels like the transmission is going to fall out. but since it does it in neutral i doubt tranny problems. things I've replaced: fuel filter, tranny fluid and filter, crankshaft pos. camshaft pos, TPI, MAF, spark plugs, Ignition coils ( all 8) cleaned throttle body ( found 1 EGR port clogged completely )..
I had a couple codes but nothing constant. Been working on this for about 1 year. Codes p0320 (ignition speed input error) p0262 (injector circuit high cylinder #1). my only question here is...... What would only make this dang engine miss between 1500 and 2000 rpm. motor runs perfect thru all other ranges. idle... high speed.. and even throttling through this bad range is ok.. but when stabilizing between 1500 and 2000 starts jerking and missing like no fuel and no fire. i have put in superchip program couple years ago and it ran fine for about 1 year, then this trouble started... I have put back to stock program but still trouble.
I have a 2000 F-150 XL with a 4.2 V-6, a 5 speed manual transmission and manual shift on the fly transfer case. The 4WD went out over a year ago. When it went out, I was driving at 65 MPH and heard what sounded like rapid relay chatter for several seconds (10 to 15 seconds) and it stopped. The sound seemed like it was coming from the dashboard area where the GEM is located, but may have been from the solenoids mounted on the engine compartment firewall. Actually could have been from both. When the 4WD tried to engage while driving at 65 MPH, the dash lights were flashing on and off and it sounded like the front differential was trying to engage. Of course I slowed down while this occurred to avoid damaging the truck should it succeeded to engage the front differential.
I have a Haynes manual but the wiring diagrams are some what ambiguous as my truck is not as common as those having ESOF. Even researching online I am not certain if the info pertains to my truck. The only diagram I found to be accurate is the vacuum control diagram. I believe I have either a wiring problem or the GEM is bad. When troubleshooting I like to isolate at the middle points to quickly eliminate one side or another when looking at a diagram/schematic.
Ford had a well-noted problem with the two solenoids that control the 4WD actuator and are mounted on the engine compartment firewall. So I started here, as this is a good halfway point and high failure area.Well, the solenoid power connectors had 12 volts on both connector pins (if I remember correctly as it was a year ago when I did some troubleshooting)regardless of transfer case shift position (2wd, 4wd high or low). I was able to manipulate the solenoids and verified they were operating, as I could feel and here the solenoids click when grounding the control side of the pin on each solenoid. I did check fuse 23 prior to checking the solenoids. Since 12 volts was present at the solenoids, it indicated power was getting to them.
So another common problem is the transfer case 4WDsensor. I removed, cleaned, and verified operation of the sensor. Reinstalled and check sensor state with transfer case in all 3 positions and it was working correctly. Also I have no 4WD indication on the dashboard when 4WD high or low is selected. Fuse 6 is good.
My main issue is not having confidence with the wiring diagrams I have found online. I am not sure if my truck has a MSOF relayor the transfer case 4WD sensor signal goes directly to the GEM.
I need to check:
1. Wiring from transfer case 4WD sensor to either GEM or MSOF relay, if there is a relay, will check it along with wiring to GEM,but don't believe it exists for my truck. (I need the wiring diagram to do this)
2. If the transfer case 4WD sensor output is getting to the GEM module, I would think the GEM module is bad. If possible, I would like to check the GEM module outputs to the solenoids, but since the GEM is buried behind the fuse panel, it probably is not feasible.
I plan to call the Ford service department in my area to determine what GEM I have and will buy a GEM online. Replacing the GEM does not look fun, so I have avoided it but wanted to be sure it was the problem.
So I want to know if I am tracking correctly and if there is anything else I should check, and would like the correct wiring diagram as indicated in item 1.
My hubby is working on a 2000 F150. The heater does not get hot. He has checked the blend door and it is functioning correctly. Is there a valve on the back of the engine that shuts the water off going to the heater core?
View 5 RepliesMy 2000 f150's 4x4 won't work, it has esotf, I have replaced everything I can think of, when I turn it to 4hi and 4 low i get nothing, no clicks no dash lights. I have replaced the gem, the switch, the relays, checked the fuses, i bench tested the motor it works, if i put 12v to the shift motor while on the t/c it engages to 4x4 (though I haven't driven it like that because I am not sure if its in 4hi 4 lo or in between the two) so that being said...
View 3 RepliesMy scenario: 2000 F150 4x4 Supercab 5.4L 161k miles. Codes on my scan are P0113 intake air temp sensor 1 circuit high. P0102 mass air flow volume low. P0305 cyl 5 misfire. P0307 cyl 7 misfire. The 1st code I'm unfamiliar with sensor location? 2Nd code i replaced air filter, removed MAF sensor for cleaning and it appears to have only 1 heating wire or filament. Shouldn't there be 2? Plugs were changed approx 15k ago however COP's were not. Should that be my first remedy for 305&307, new plugs and coils? Also what is next sensor in line between MAF and throttle body? Is that the sensor from code P0113?
View 3 RepliesOkay so I have a 2003 F150 4x4. I think I might have a problem with my right rear shock because when I am driving slowly or get out of the truck, the rear end squeaks a little bit. But when I stand in the bend and jump up and down, it doesn't squeak at all. It's annoying and was wondering if there were any ways to diagnose this problem without buying new shocks?
View 7 RepliesPurchased new 2000 F150 5.4 automatic 2wd now the power steering has gone out. I read all the things about the intermediate shaft seizing up so sprayed and prayed until I finally broke down and ordered a new one. Well I just pulled off the original with over 250,000 miles it seems like new. The tiny u-joints are very free moving (not sloppy at all) and the sliding shaft works fine.
I'm starting to worry that the power steering pump is shot although it was not squealing or groaning. I do have some tie rod and ball joint squeaks, could that be it? I'm really frustrated thinking it was going to be a simple intermediate shaft replacement now I've got a brand new one and the same problem. The lower power steering hose was pretty grimy but I figured that was all of the PBlaster I'd been spraying on it.
I'm going to jack it up and try moving the wheels back and forth to see if it is binding anywhere. Was reading about a high pressure switch but where that even is or if the 2000 has it.
Looking for a diagram for the ecm pinouts for a 2000 5.4 4x4 f150? Im mostly trying to find the TCC for the tranny.
View 1 RepliesMy 2000 F-150 odometer light goes on and off intermittent. How to fix this?
View 12 RepliesA year ago, I was driving down the highway ,gas low,and it just died. Half hour later stasrts right up. No problem since then until 2 months ago. It's died 4 times in last 2 months regardless of how much gas in tank. Just stops out of blue when coming to stop signs. Half hour or so will start right back up with no problem.
View 6 RepliesI bought this truck new, then sold it to my son, now I bought it back from him. it has sat a lot the last three years. replaced egr valve 08-13, fuel filter 12-13. CEL has been on for a while 02 sensor, it had a bad miss in it so had advance auto scan it and it had miss in #3,#5 and I think he said high pressure exhaust gas? he cleard the codes, so on the way home, It started running good.
The next day it started right up and drove it a couple blocks. it sat for 30 min. then wouldn't start. I cranked it for a while. No gas smell? Hooked a timing light up and didn't get no light? I am not sure if you can check to see if its firing this way? What is the firing order? how to check the fuel pressure? when I have removed gas cap it doesn't make any sound from pressure in the tank. Also how to test coil?
Here's the deal. Ive got a 2000 f150 4.6 4x4xlt 170000 miles, About 2 ears ago or so the truck would not start on the first try or two. now this only occurred every once and a while. Last winter it became more of a problem. All i had to do was cycle the key a couple times listen for the pump to prime and was good to go. Summer rolls around no problem at all. Fall rolls around and here we go again no prime. cycle the key a couple times good to go. As it gets colder the problem gets worse. No we fast forward to couple a weeks ago, was out in the woods cutting firewood i go to move the truck and it wont start. I have to cycle the key like 30-40 times. Now its doing it like every time i go to mov the truck until yesterday. Now it wont prime at all. Now every time it primed in the past it runs perfect after it starts . the filter has been changed every 12-15000 or every fall, Ive replaces the fuel pump relay to try it no change, tryed the other key no difference. Im leaning towards a pump but ive never heard of one doing this before.
View 6 RepliesI'm chasing a SES light on my mothers expedition. It had bank 1/2 lean and the 4 o2 sensor codes. So I put a fuel pressure gauge on it. At idle it fluctuated between 31-35 (rose and fell with a rough idle) as engine rise/falls. Rev it up to 15-1700 an pressure falls to 29-30, unplug the regulator and it pegs at 40 no matter idle-2000 rpm... does those numbers sound right?
View 11 RepliesF150 has the 5.4L w/ the auto. 59K on the ticker. This "spuddering" type problem only happens when in overdrive. Mostly highway and when starting to pull up small hills. The symptom is a slight jerking and "spuddering" feeling. It goes away with more rpm's and some acceleration. I've tried injector cleaners and 91 octane just for grins, nothing works. Is this a possible COP issue?
View 14 RepliesI've seen some discussion about the 4.6 motor not blowing plugs, so I just wanted to add to the confirmation that they do. 106k miles on the motor, #5 came out today on the freeway.
I was looking to repair myself, but the Timesert kit is expensive.. I'm thinking I now want all 8 done so I don't have to deal with this again.
2000 supercab 4x4 166k miles. Starts right up in morning no probs. Drive to work shut it off and turn key it does NOTHING. Gauges light up, etc but wil not crank. Let it sit all day and it will fire right up. Battery, starter solenoid? Looking for place to start. Won't crank in neutral either.
View 2 RepliesI am having an oil pressure issue on a 2000 F-150, 4.6L.
I recently put a new set of heads on the motor because of some valve damage. Anyways. The oil pressure gauge in dash would sit at around 3/4.. Drive it a couple miles and every time you would get back to idle (stop sign) it would drop to zero and the light would come on.
You could also hear it make a little noise like the top end wasn't getting oil. (Didn't run at idle long..) I figured it was obviously starved of oil so I put a new oil pump, timing chains/guides/tensioners on. (Which I probably should have done with the heads.) Same issue resulted, but no funny noises when the gauge drops off.
Suspecting that the sensor may be faulty and the dash gauge being useless anyways, I dug an old mechanical gauge out of a box and installed it. I'm getting similar oil results. (Under 25psi it seems.) I'm not sure if the gauge has just gone to crap over the years of being in a box. However, the previous low-oil pressure issue seems to confirm it's not the gauge.
I cleaned the oil pickup when I had the motor apart. It didn't seem dirty, but I sprayed it out regardless. The motor looked fairly fresh when I had it apart. Bearings looked solid, cylinder walls even looked freshly honed. From what I hear, the motor was a low-mileage replacement.
So what could cause a low-oil pressure issue? Bearings seem fine, oil pump is brand new.
I was driving my f150 with the AC on, it has a 4 position fan switch. Lo, 1 , 2, and Hi. The fan only works on Hi. I don't think its a fuse, so what are the possibilities ?
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