Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2000 V6 - CEL On / Code Reader Won't Come On
Feb 27, 2016
2000 F150 V6 auto just bought it 140k. Check engine light on.. Code reader wont come on? has 2 lighter sockets in dash one on the left works right one dont? I hear one is inline with the code port? Checked 1 fuse #110? looked good...I don't have a manual so I"m lost.. or there are more fuses?
Also the speedo mileage sometimes will go blank? at start up then come back on ?? seems to be working even when blank? First I need to get the code reader port to put out..so i can see the codes....
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Truck had a rich on bank 2 code about a month ago, I cleared it and the service engine light stayed off for quite some time.
Last friday on the way home from work the truck started shaking badly right from idle, and at one point on the freeway the service engine started flashing. I couldn't pull over as I was on a bridge but once I dropped my speed the light stayed on but the flashing stopped.
I went to plug the truck in today and first shot it didn't communicate with the code reader at all, I talked to someone who told me that the cigerette lighter fuse is also the OBD port fuse, I pulled a fuse from somewhere else and plugged the reader in again. This time it started communicating with the truck but didn't display any codes while all the while the truck is miss firing and the service engine light is lit up on the dash.
One other weird thing: The fuse had an LED indicator to show that it is blown, when I push the cig lighter in the led gets a hell of a lot brighter, if there is always power drawn through the circuit shouldn't the LED be constantly bright all the time? I'm wondering if there is a short somewhere. Where to look next??
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Me and the wife got in the ole '97 1.8. After may be 5 mins or so, I noticed the CEL was on.
I've only ever seen the CEL light on once, and it was b/c the gas cap was loose.
The car ran fine, nothing out of the ordinary. After getting home, I plugged in the dusty OBD reader thingy and it spit out a code, I can't remember. P401 or something like that. EGR emission low?
It appeared that my EGR valve is all cruddy with carbon deposits. So Is removal/cleaning terribly difficult? I'm thinking some carb cleaner and maybe a scraper would do the trick.
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I am trying to find out how many o2 sensors are suppose to be on my 2003 excursion? I am getting two codes on my OBD reader, an "o2" and an "o2 heater" code flashing...... I have replaced both the o2 sensors i found, both were at the exhaust manifolds.
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Ok, did a quick search, found nothing. Is there a way to get CEL codes without a reader on '01 F150? I know the way on 80's stuff, is there on newer stuff?
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I am told I am possibly having some engine misfires and I need to get my error codes read. The problem is I don't want to drive the car to an auto parts store to get read because the engine is really rough and bumpy. So what kind of code reader to get, OBD I, OBD II, CAN..etc??? I have a 2000 Buick Park Ave. I have a mechanic coming over tomorrow, and it seems he doesn't have a code reader off hand, so I gotta pick one up...
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I have a 2000 expedition with the 5.4L and a squirrel got under the hood and chewed up some wires that run to the pcm along with some vacuum lines. I got all the wires I seen spliced back together. I drove it yesterday for the first time and my check engine light came on. I pulled a p1744 a trans solenoid for torque converter lock up. The fluid isn't low and looks bright red on dipstick. It drives and shifts fine. Is there a certain wire from the pcm harness I need to look at first?
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To start I was driving to work tonight and noticed the o/d "off" light flashing. it shifted hard one time then felt normal the rest of the way to work. At red lights the o/d light world turn off and about 3 minutes later it would flash again. When I got to work, I checked my code reader which gave me the p0705. I have searched around the net for about an hour and one thing i am seeing is that the fluid is "hot" or that there isn't enough. i have checked it and it looks slightly low like right above the add indication.
The only sound I here from under the truck is a rattle when in drive and at idle, but once I give it some gas it goes away. On they way home that night the o/d light was still flashing but it drove fine just at higher rpm, it down shifted hard one time but there were no other issues. I checked the fuses and they are all good.
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I recently replaced both the downstream O2 Sensors in my 2000 4.2L F150 because I was getting a P0136 (Bank1 Sensor 2) code that I couldn't get rid of by cleaning the connector or fixing wires. 110K miles. Calif truck. No other codes and has always passed smog test easily.
When I pulled the sensors, the Driver's side unit was extremely sooty, as compared to the passenger side (bank 1). The code failure was on bank 1.
Is this normal or is there some rich condition on the driver's side bank that I need to check into ? Originals were Bosch, replaced w/ Motorcraft, if that makes any diff. One on left is driver's side unit.
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2000 F-150 Triton V-8, Super Cab, 2WD, ~170,000 miles, 4-wheel ABS (one speed sensor on each front wheel and one on the rear differential). The ABS light comes on a few minutes after driving. It seems to take a little bit longer for the light to come on when the weather is colder.
I used a Cen-Tech 60794 OBD II/CAN with ABS scan tool with key on, engine off, and the below sequence. No codes were detected. I then left the scanner connected but powered off and drove around until the ABS light came on. Pulled into a parking lot with engine running, powered up the scan tool and went through the following menu choices:
Diagnostics
ABS
Area - USA vehicles
Model - Ford
Although the tool's instruction manual has several more items that may or may not be required (VIN digits, model year, etc), the next thing I saw is a message indicating the scanner is linking with the vehicle computer. During that time the ABS light went out. Next on the scan tool display my choice was to read codes or erase codes. I selected "Read codes" and the display said there are no codes in the module.
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My daughter returned from college with her 2000 f150 4.2 idling and running rough on acceleration. It is throwing a P0171 code only. I replaced the isolator bolts/plenum gaskets four years ago because of a P0171 & P0174 codes.
So far I have replaced the MAF, new PCV valve and elbow, checked all obvious lines for vacuum leaks (though I suspect a leak somewhere still). Also, a quick check of the plugs show some lean color/deposits on the drivers side only. Any thoughts or troubleshooting I should try next?
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I've got a 2000 f150 with a 5.4 and 135,000 miles. The other day it was driving fine then i stopped and got gas and after that it was boggy and running rough so i thought bad gas but i ran through that gas and got more at a different store. The cel came on i got it checked it was misfire cylinder 1 so i put new cop, spark plug, and injector. Unhooked the battery and then the light came back on so i ran the code and now im getting a p0171. I checked the pcv and sprayed around the intake and vacuum lines. I also checked the pcv hose and elbow in the back and i found nothing its a fairly new hose. So, it does run rough it shutters a lot.
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I have a 2000 f150 with 5.4 Triton with 165k miles. I did invest in a code reader. It started missing and code P0302 came up along with P0171. Put new coil on #2 and truck ran fine for a few days. Then it started to run rough again. Shaking, Idle rough, no power and CEL came on again. This time code P0171. I changed out fuel filter to no avail. My next step was to start looking for vacuum leaks. As I'm searching, All I am finding is trucks with this problem also get P0174 code. My question is since I am only getting lean on one bank does that pretty much eliminate things like MAF or the famous elbow vacuum leak and make something that only affects one bank like an O2 sensor on CAT more likely?
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I have a 2000 f150 with a 5.4 past few months it has been throwing a p1151 code meaning it is coming up lean on the driver side. I just changed the plugs and it didn't work, neither did changing the fuel and air filters. cant find any vacuum or exhaust leaks. Replaced a bad injector along with the spark plugs and its still coming up lean.
The truck also seems to bog down at about 50-60 mph if i let off the gas and coast it will drop about 300 rpms. It has me confused and annoyed, i have true duals with glass packs could that be causing it?
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I have a 2004 chevy silverado 1500 ext cab with a 5.3 L 4X4 , I tried to plug in a code reader and I'm not getting any readings . The reader is working , My question is can this be fixed by me or do I have to take my truck into the dealer?
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2000 Honda Odyssey - CEL came on a couple of days ago and I took it to get the code read. The reader says it can't link up with the ecu. Tried the same reader on another car and it worked fine. The transmission was rebuilt last year (about 9 mo. ago) and I'm concerned that something was not hooked up right during the rebuild. Is this a possibility for the non-linking of the reader to the ecu? Also, last year, before the tranny rebuild, I had a reader hooked up to the ecu and it worked fine.
As a side note, the TCS light comes on sometimes after starting the car and won't turn off. If I restart the car it will turn off and work properly. I imagine this is related, but not sure since I can't read the code for the CEL.
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I have a 2000 F150 with 4.6l triton 125k miles. i have a bad miss ONLY between 1500 and 2000 rpm. This will happen in any gear and in neutral, but only between those rpm's. seems to happen more constant in warm weather. This miss is so bad it feels like the transmission is going to fall out. but since it does it in neutral i doubt tranny problems. things I've replaced: fuel filter, tranny fluid and filter, crankshaft pos. camshaft pos, TPI, MAF, spark plugs, Ignition coils ( all 8) cleaned throttle body ( found 1 EGR port clogged completely )..
I had a couple codes but nothing constant. Been working on this for about 1 year. Codes p0320 (ignition speed input error) p0262 (injector circuit high cylinder #1). my only question here is...... What would only make this dang engine miss between 1500 and 2000 rpm. motor runs perfect thru all other ranges. idle... high speed.. and even throttling through this bad range is ok.. but when stabilizing between 1500 and 2000 starts jerking and missing like no fuel and no fire. i have put in superchip program couple years ago and it ran fine for about 1 year, then this trouble started... I have put back to stock program but still trouble.
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I have a 03 F150 with a bi-fuel 5.4 engine an it has 195000 miles. I have had trouble for some time now with misfires. I bought the truck in october of 2011 with 125000 miles and replaced all the coils and spark plugs because it was misfiring badly will running on CNG. It was fine on gasoline and never had any codes. After I replaced the plugs and coils it ran fine on CNG and gasoline.
This summer 2013 it began missing badly at highway speeds only when running on CNG. If I accelerated the miss would go away until I was light on the throttle again.I checked the misfire count and found the bad cylinder and replaced a coil. Then a day later same thing on another cylinder. I swapped a coil from another cylinder and problem went away for a day. Eventually I chased the misfire around all the cylinders on the engine until I had ended up either replacing a spark plug or swapping a coil on all the cylinders. And I still had a misfire. It seemed to be worse on days with temperatures above 90 degrees. Eventually I got it to stop misfiring.
So now 5 months later I am back again with a misfire. This time it is misfiring on both gasoline and CNG and under any throttle conditions, except coasting. I have no codes. And the misfire monitor is sending me around the engine again. I have replaced a spark plug in two cylinders and swapped 4 coils.
I'm ready to buy all new coils, but I want to be sure that it is not a waste of money since the old ones only have 70000 miles on them.
Two days ago I had the misfire monitor saying #4 in the evening and the next day without me having done any work on it it was saying #6. Later that same day it said #7 and I still hadn't done anything other than drive the truck.
I checked the connections at the firewall on the drivers side with the three large plugs that are held in with a 10mm bolt, they looked fine, no corrosion or burnt pins. I checked the connection at the ACFM which also looks good. I will check the connection at the PCM in the next day or so.
Some other problems that may be contributing:
1. I occasionally get a U1262 code (scp fault)
2. Sometimes when I check the misfire monitor it only shows 7 cylinders, sometime 9 cylinders. I am using an Innova 3160 scanner.
3. I have either a leaking valve cover gasket or leaking head gasket, because I have oil dripping from the rear bottom corner of the passenger side cylinder head right above the exhaust pipe.
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check engine light came on about 2 months ago had my mechanic pull the code po175 (bank 2 rich) because it was just bank 2 i decided to go after the 02 sensors. replaced them 2 weeks ago and had the code cleared. was fine until this past Sunday. shut the truck off to get gas and when restarted the light was on again. had the code pulled today and its po175 again. 1997 5.4 127xxx mi. stock except for a k&n filter and flo master muffler. i did a search but the 3 posts that popped up dealt with both banks being rich.
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Had to put a new tranny in my 1997 F150 XLT Lariat 4x4 5.4 liter engine about 3 weeks ago and now have gotten the check engine light. Took it to autozone and code 1450 was the only code listed. They said it was was a vacuum problem, but when I checked the code at a web site it is listed as a secondary air injector system circuit shot to B+.
My question is which is correct and how to repair?
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I have a 2003 F150 4.2 with 155000 miles. What may be causing this?
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