Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2000 - Replaced Alternator Now Cannot Get Belt Back On?
Sep 3, 2015
I have a 2000 V6 F150 and replaced my alternator in about five minutes and now have been trying to re-install the serpentine belt for about 6 hours. How do you grab the tensioner pulley?
Also I selected the 130 amp new manufactured alternator at Advanced. Auto thinking the 130 amp might be somewhat of an upgrade to my original Motorcraft Alt and after several hours I also discovered them. pulley on the new alternator is about a quarter inch larger in diameter than the original alternator. I wonder if I should compensate for a half inch longer belt or try to get the same one on.
In any case I cannot find a way to grab and move the belt tensioner to allow me to reinstall the belt around the alternator. Are there any pictures anywhere on how to move the tensioner to create slack when reinstalling the belt?
View 11 Replies
Advertisement
I put a re manufactured alternator in my 2000 f150 with the 5.4 liter. Now all the lights flicker, go dim and then come back on bright again. I noticed when the lights dim, the heater fan speed also drops. The light flickering is constant and bad enough, that I can notice it in daylight also with the headlights on. It is really noticeable at night with the truck in drive (or any gear for that matter) sitting at a stop sign or sitting still in my driveway. I changed out the old alternator because it was making a loud chattering noise. I didn't have any trouble with the lights or fan with the old alternator. Why doesn't the battery volt gauge in my instrument cluster fluctuate all the time while it is doing this? It reads in the normal range all the time and doesn't move. The flickering lights are also noticeable at highway speeds, its just not as bad.
View 2 Replies
Driver side seatbelt wont retract back up i have to push it in and sometimes it will suck it up but most of the time it wont is there a way to take it apart and clean it maybe?
View 9 Replies
Long story short, I had to replace an alternator and I thought while I was at the shop already, and might as well get both belts replaced. (The Echo has a belt for power steering and a serpentine belt). After the shop replaced theses 3 thing. I drove off, alternator worked, belts didn't make noise. Then a week later, I got the infamous squeaky belt sounds while starting up the car. I've been trying to track down this sounds for a while now. And I found out it only come on when the engine is cold and when I'm driving with the engine cold.
I promise you that my belts made no noise before the belt change. Is it possible the shop didn't put the belt correctly? Also, I'm not that mechanically inclined, what causes belt the squeak anyways?
View 2 Replies
2005 F-350 6L
Just changed my alternator, that was the easy part apparently...............
Cant get fan belt back on? My pulleys don't look the same as the picture under the hood. I can see a idler on passengers side down low, but cant seem to make it move to give me some slack.
What kind of tool to use on idler to get slack?
View 14 Replies
I bought this truck an it ran good then one day it started knocking really bad so i replaced the crank shaft an bearings. Put everything back together started the truck an it ran like crap an i just happened to check the oil an it is milky. All the water in y radiator is now in the motor oil an truck has no power...
View 2 Replies
I have replaced booster, master cylinder, all four callipers, and bled the brake system a number of times on my 2000 F-150 4x4. and still the pedal is wicked spongy, is there some other problem?
View 6 Replies
I have a 2000 F-150 5.4. The lights will dim very momentarily and brighten right back up when driving under 2000 rpm. It is barely noticeable except on the small back roads at night. It is actual the most noticeable on the dome light. I replaced a failing alternator probably a month or so ago and I don't remember it before I replaced the alternator. What could be involved with the new part to cause the flicker. Could it be bad ground connection or what? I don't have any voltage readouts or anything. I can get those tomorrow.
View 5 Replies
My battery went dead so I replaced with new. This did not fix the problem so I replaced the alternator. It's working now but the battery light stays on. I think I still have a problem.
View 3 Replies
I got my Alternator replaced last week. Last night, I hit a very small bump, not even large enough to really cause me to slow down, and as soon as I did, my battery and brake lights came on. My RPM gauge also jumped around and eventually went to 0 until I stopped and put the car in park. (The bump might just be a coincidence who knows). So after all this happened, I turned off my car, tried to restart and got nothing. Sometimes I get a click, sometimes 2 clicks up to 4-6 consecutive clicks. Every few times I won't even get a click, just a slight attempt to start, then the car dies, then 2 seconds later all my lights and radio etc. come back on. My problem here is a few things:
1. I've been told it could be the starter. If it's the start, those dashboard lights shouldn't have came on right? just the STARTING portion of the car.
2. I've been told it could be the battery.
Well If i got my alternator tested and Advance said it was working, Why would my battery be dead? And if it WAS dead, wouldn't my lights have went dim or something else happen to the car?
View 10 Replies
I have a 2003 Ranger 2.3l with 327k miles on it. I recently replaced the belt and now it doesnt want to start. The belt is on correctly and tensioner is tight. The battery is fully charged its just not firing up and starting. All connections are good, the ac and power steering pulleys are relatively new. Now i have been stuck tryin to fix it for a week...
View 8 Replies
One of my belts squeaks. I've tightened one of them as far as it goes I think. The other one is the one with the alternator. Do I tighten the pulley bolt on the alternator to add tension to that one?
View 4 Replies
My alternator went out last week. I installed a new alternator, battery and serpentine belt. However, the battery is still dying. So far I checked the continuity on the fusible link and it appears to be good. I also checked fuse number 11 which provides power to the voltage regulator. The fuse is not blown. The voltage at the battery while it is running is less than 12 volts and it drops the longer it runs. I also have codes b1318, b1932, c 1226, and c1284.
View 8 Replies
I have a 1998 f150. Was driving down the road the other night and the truck loses all power. I have replaced the alternator and the battery loght stayed on. So, I took both old and new altrrnator to parts store and had them both tested and they bith passed. Is this a commomn issue?
View 7 Replies
The other day the battery light came on. Of course the useless "gauge" still reads normal but that is another rant.
Checked voltages today:
Battery reads 12.0 volts key off, 11.83 key on, engine off, 11.65 engine running.
Obviously discharging and I am guessing it is the alternator. Do these trucks have an external regulator that may have failed or is it in the alternator? I'd hate to spend $150-200 for an alternator only to find out it doesn't solve the problem.
View 14 Replies
A co worker gave me an 1986 F-150 5.0 302 with 225,000 miles that he had sitting for 1 year in driveway. He never put the new alternator in that he bought. I towed it to my house and put the alt. in jumped the battery and it started but idle was horrible. turned the idle screw to get bad gas burned off.
Whenever I shut it off or it died from idle I would have to jump it. So, I put new 56-3 battery new relay and it started right up. Drove it down the road to test drive, the truck would want to fowl out whenever I stepped on gas peddle hard. I put Sea Foam and Lucas in the tank and 20.00 premium on top. but now the truck will not turn over since it was shut off unless i jump it but needs jumping all the time. thought it was the starter so, replaced that and still tick, tick, tick, tick when trying to start won't turn over. Its going to start to make me drink, what I can replace now or have checked? maybe its the Alternator he gave me with the truck?
View 3 Replies
I drive a '99 F150 4x4 5.4 EFI 196,000 miles. Recently I started noticing a growling noise that followed engine speed. I immediately thought alternator going out. So I pulled the belt off and it spins free and doesn't feel rough at all.
So I started it up and realized the noise got a lot louder when the ac clutch cycled. Now I'm thinking ac compressor. A short trip to my mechanic who didn't even really look at it very long and he said the compressor is about ready to seize up. I thought I might just put on an ac bypass pulley to get by for a while. Not really a sound decision in the middle of July, I'm thinking, but I'm poor and it beats having the compressor lock up, right?
Today, when I get off work and pop the hood with the ac off and the clutch not engaged the noise is worse than ever. I put a stethoscope (long screwdriver, I told you I was poor) on the alternator and it is making all of the noise. Turned the ac on again and it was really making noise now. So I applied the stetho-driver to the ac compressor and it is quiet as can be.
I am cautiously optimistic that the alternator is the sole culprit and that it only gets louder when the ac cycles because of the extra drag on the belt.
Does that seem like a logical explanation? Should I just try the alternator? I really don't want to destroy a perfectly functioning ac system only to find out that it was OK to begin with and I don't want to buy a $150 alternator for no reason either.
View 3 Replies
Alternator warning lite comes on at idle rpm. Speed up rpm lite goes out. The gauge shows alternator is charging. Autozone checked it for me it is putting out 11 to 11.5amps running. Should be putting out around 13 amps, right? alternator bad?
View 1 Replies
I have a 99 F150 4x4 with 5.4 Triton, 99xxx miles. I was towing my boat when the regulator in my alternator went bad. I drove the truck with the voltage being sporadic for about 10 miles until I could get to a parts store. While driving on the bad alternator, I started noticing a misfire. I replaced the alternator, battery and DPFE. I still have the misfire....but here is the kicker. The misfire only happens when the truck reaches operating temperature. Which, in my limited knowledge, eliminates a fouled plug, COP, bad injector and a vacuum leak. I've got no check engine light so I can't pull a code. The only thing I can think of is to clean the EGR?
View 10 Replies
We recently had the timing belt replaced in our 2003 Volkswagen Passat (1.8T). Now it shakes and vibrates badly when we put it in drive and idle. It ran smoothly before we had the belt replaced. The mechanic hasn't found a solution yet.
View 2 Replies
I bought a 99 f350, that already had HID's in it, i found out i was running the wrong batters (weren't 800 cold crank) I just had to replace the alternator. Ever since the new alternator when i turn on my headlights my truck shuts off. IT fried my IDM and i just put a new IDM and 2 new batteries in it today. Thinking i had fixed the problem i drove around no issues, finally i was leaving someones house and turned on my lights, and truck shuts off!!! It restarts but now im trowing a code!!!! im guessing the HIDs are wired wrong and that's why its shutting down the truck but OEM IDM from ford is 1300$!!!!! brand new one installed today,
View 5 Replies
