Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2000 - Odometer Has Been Going On And Off Intermittently
Sep 12, 2014
200 F150 5.4L Triton, 164K rounds. My odometer has been going on and off intermittently since I bought the truck 4 months ago, no big deal. This morning, though, I started the truck to go to work and my oil pressure gauge was at zero. There wasn't any noise coming from the motor aside from the very slight bottom end knock it had when I bought it, so I figured it's the sending unit. I shut the truck off and started it back up a few times to be sure, and the oil pressure sending unit started working. But THEN my 4X4 engaged. The dial on the dash was in the 2WD position, but the 4X4 was definitely engaged. It wouldn't engage when I first bought the truck without swapping the vacuum hoses under the hood, and now it's doing it on its' own.
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My 2000 F-150 odometer light goes on and off intermittent. How to fix this?
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I have no odometer display and the radio is also not lighting up. I don't see any fuses blown. Is there a relay or something I should be looking for and being I don't have an owners manual, which fuse is the one that covers this. Truck is a 2000 F150 ....
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I have a 1997 f150 4.6L 4x4 Standard Transmission and today I hopped in it to go to work, and the Speedo, Trip Odometer, and Odometer all are not working.
This is the first time it has happened to me, what could cause this or have a problem similar to this and know how to fix it?
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I own a 2000 f-150 7700 series with a 4in body lift. recently Ive had a problem starting (I believe it is from the shifter not recognizing im in park) but now my theft light flashes at me and there is a weird sound that sounds like a relay from under my steering column when i roll my windows down, move shifter around or turn on 4x4. also my radio stays one every once in a while after the key is turned all the way back to off, and windows wont roll down after i hear the relay sound. Ive read to tighten shifter linkage and will do that tomorrow to see if that fixes it.
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Dad's 2000 F150 5.4 ltr will start intermittently, when it does fire it runs fine, but right after start up all the dash gauges "spike" to the max levels for a sec and then go back down to normal....
Put the Cen-Tec 98614 code reader on and it continues to say "Link error" and I can't communicate to the interface. P.S., I confirmed the Code reader is good by pulling a 420 O2 sensor code from my Toyota in just a few seconds....
I can hear the fuel pump kick in so I doubt that is the culprit. Because of the gauge spike at start up (every time) this problem screams grounding problem, but I don't know where to start. Could it be a faulty relay?
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I parked my truck yesterday and know the odometer display was working. Started truck up this morning and no display. My brake light (idiot light in dash) was slightly illuminated as well. The truck ran fine and when I shut it off and started it back up again, the odometer was still out but the brake light was off. Any thoughts? I saw a you tube video showing a cold solder joint on the back of the dash motherboard. I hate to pull that all apart if there could be something else that is simple.
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My digital odometer is funky! Sometimes time it works sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it works on start up than after a lil while it fades out.
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I just picked up an 01 F150 2wd for my daughter. I've noticed that the light up odometer has no illumination when the headlights are off, and when I turn the headlights on (to illuminate the gauges) I get just the faintest bit of light of the numbers of the odometer. It's so dim that unless it's nearly dark outside you can barely even tell it's lit up. The dimmer dial for the gauges is turned all they way up to max before the dome light comes on.
The LCD display for the odometer wouldn't use a traditional filament style bulb for light, so I'm at a loss right now.
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I just noticed that the odometer and trip meter have stopped working. What is involved in the repair?
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The odometer light turns on and off (mostly off) and seems to be getting worse. The repair shop I go to said its a dealer item and they usually send them out to a specialized shop, the dealer said replace instrument cluster. I may not be the best but I would like to try a few things before I shell out the money. I read that it may simply be the connections at the Instrument cluster plugin which might just need cleaning, read another fix which involved Pencel soldering, Cold Solders on the instrument clusters circuit board.
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I have read the thread on repairing cold solder joint inside the instrument cluster. How to correctly disassemble the dash to get to this ? this drives me crazy when the odometer is not there. 2002, f-150 fx4, 5.4 w/ auto. trans.
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I reprogrammed my computer, to get rid of a bad tune with the Ford Program. After reprogramming, and entering in my tire size/gear size my speedometer and odometer no longer work. Also my overdrive light is flashing. Does this truck have a PSOM and could that be bad? What else could cause the problem, it definitely happened when it was flashed. Whats the cheapest way to fix it?
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I have taller tires on the truck. I knew the odometer would be reading incorrectly so I took it to my local ford dealer. They said the truck is to old to calibrate.
The truck has a manual shift five speed transmission. To fix the problem I thought about swapping the rear end gears.
Can you swap the output shaft speedo gear in the transmission tail shaft? How to calibrate? 1998 F150 ....
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The Speed Needle works fine. But...the Odometer part quit some time ago. I can't tell what my fuel Mileage is now. How to troubleshoot this problem?
Things that might affect this problem; Transmission skids loudly when going in and out of 4-OD. It could be the Torque converter clutch?
The Gear shift lever is sloppy. Doesn't fill me with Confidence.
Brake fluid warning light is on most of the time. Fluid level is up hi though. Driver door mirror control switch don't work in one direction Who on this Forum has a Switch for me?
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I have a 2006 F-150 S/Crew and I seem to have the same intermittant odometer problem as many of the folks in that 1999-2003 group. The odometer comes and goes, flashes intermittantly and sometimes doesn't work for days.
Can it be repaired in the same fashion as those older units? The dealer is more than willing to sell me a new cluster (obviously). They say that there is "no way to possibly repair those odometer problems and we see them all the time."
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I have a 96 ford ranger 4cyl 5 spd. I've only had it for a month or so, but I've noticed on cold mornings my odometer won't work. The trip or the total mileage. I can hear the odometer cable clicking. Once the cab gets warmed up it'll start working. It's only happened twice, at about 50 degrees or lower, so I can only imagine what'll happen once winter kicks in. Where to go from here? I was thinking maybe it needs to be re-lubed or something...
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1998 F150 XLT 4x4 4.6L Auto.
Bought this truck two months ago, the lot had the engine rebuilt due to bad bearings, so fresh motor. They forgot to recharge the AC, so I had them charge it when I purchased it. It blew icy cold every things until a few weeks ago. It wouldn't work, then randomly it would, then it would quit, etc. Today it's 97 and I had it on with my kids in the truck, hot air.
I tried turning it off and on, still hot.
I tried seeing if the temperature was stuck and moved it to hot, it got sweltering hot, back to cold, just warm air. There is no difference between vent and max AC.
I went to the store, picked up a refrigerant filler with gauge and a can of R-134. I hooked it to the low end of the system and was surprised that my pressure was about 60PSI. Great, they over filled it at the dealership. I released the pressure down to 40psi and checked, sill hot. I figured maybe something was weird and they might have mixed good refrigerant with bad and that's why it was intermittent.
I released all the pressure down to 0 PSI. I then put on the can of R-134 and filled it to spec. Sill hot air. I removed the harness from the pressure switch and jumped it, getting sparks when I connect the wire, so it's connecting, but still hot air, probably not the switch.
What's going on here? Could they have over filled it and killed the system or something? What is likely broken here? My heater works like a champ, my AC just blows environment temperature air.
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Pulled inside fuses one at a time and it seems to be #15 I hear a clicking sound coming from drivers door and have the fuse pulled for the battery saver relay when hearing it . My test light is dim then pulses when I close the driver's door?
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Several months ago, my truck begins having starting issues. Intermittently, the truck will not start, even though it cranks fine. I have done the following:
- checked inertia fuel switch. Okay.
- checked connections under hood for corrosion. Okay.
- checked fuses & start relay. Also swapped relays with no luck fixing the problem.
- sprayed water at various locations under the hood and bed, since the problem occurs more often when raining. No luck stressing the problem.
- changed fuel filter a couple weeks ago. No luck fixing the problem.
- changed battery over the winter (due to my 8 year old battery was becoming weak). No luck fixing the intermittent starting problem.
- changed the starter a month ago (since the truck stopped cranking). No luck fixing the intermittent starting problem.
- Installed a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail.
- Tried banging on the fuel tank with a rubber mallet. No luck fixing the intermittent starting issue.
When the truck refuses to start, the fuel pressure reads 0. Sometimes I can wait 5-10 minutes, and it will start. The truck runs fine after starting.
Sometimes waiting 5-10 minutes will not solve the problem (fuel pressure remains 0). Then, I hook my battery charger to the battery, and the voltage climbs from ~12.5V to 14.7V. The fuel pressure climbs to 30, and the truck starts.
I'm apprehensive to change the fuel pump, since it seems like more an electrical problem than a pump problem. Any diagnostic test that will tell the true problem source?
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Own a 1997 F-150, 4.6 L, 4 x 4. I know it's old but it's in very good body shape, has been undercoated for years. I've only had it for a year. This summer it began to not start (intermittently). The dash lights all come on but the starter will not engage. Brought to my local garage, he changed the starter and the ground cable from the battery.
Was ok for a few months and now it's beginning to do the same thing. Brought it back to him, can't find anything. He did say that the battery is a bit weak, the terminals are spotless (I keep them spotless, coat them with white grease). I measured the voltage with the engine stopped and with it running. Stopped, the voltage is 11.94, running it is 14.87. This clearly shows that the battery is weak.
My question is would this cause the starter to not engage after 4 or 5 turns of the key and then on the 6th try, the starter turns over? I don't want to spend more money ($ 450) the last time and have the same result. If it's possible it's the battery, I'll replace it no problem.
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