Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2000 - No Start Condition In The Morning
Nov 24, 2016
I have a 2000 f150 4wd 4.6. It wouldn't start this morning. A few years ago I had to change the inertia switch so my first move was to bypass that, which didn't work.
After that I gave it a shot of ether to see if it would hiccup and tell me if I had spark or not. It started up, ran rough while the air cleaner was off, then cleared up and ran fine, and is now starting/running fine again.
The problem is that I have to take the truck on a trip Saturday, and I can't figure out what the problem was if the truck is starting. What it could have been? No check engine light or anything either.
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The Truck...
1999 F-150 Supercab
170K miles
4.6 Litre
Automatic Trans
The Problem... About every other day, I try to start the truck, and it doesn't fire at all. It cranks fine, everything seems right, but no start.
What I've done...
Replaced Fuel Pump Relay.. (no luck)
Sprayed Starting Fluid In and Cranked... It Fires On Fluid.
Other info...
This problem never lasts long, and the problem mysteriously fixes itself after no more than an hour.
This problem has occurred both when the truck was warm and completely cold.
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2000 Ford 7.3 E450 120,000 miles...
I have changed the CPS twice
I have checked the resistance of the injectors at the IDM connector with a volt meter and the harness reports back good.
The truck will run with ether for a few seconds
I have changed the fuel filter.
The fuel bowl fills quickly
I have unplugged the ICP.
The truck is showing low voltage on the gauge with a good battery. Around 10v
I have connected my 200amp car starter and I never see over 10v. I plan to check the grounds, but I am at a loss.
Everything is difficult because this is a van body so space is limited. I have also plugged in the block heater for an hour and that hasn't made any difference. Where can I get the best price on an AE scanner.
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back story but may have nothing to do with problem. battery terminal bolts were rusted solid so i cut them off and replaced. truck stated fine the last time i started it before doing this.
I turn key and get a single click. i tried jumping 2 large poles on fender solenoid and still one click no crank. i had taken off the starter and autozone tested and it passed. i checked voltages everywhere i could think of and all were as to be expected.
could it be the starter even though it passed?
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Wants to crank. I notice when I turn the key switch on (not start) the gas gauge pegs out as if a super full tank and no fuel pump noise. At times, leading up to the crank but no start condition, I would turn the key on, hear the fuel pump and the gas gauge would indicate proper fuel level. When this happened, the vehicle ALWAYS started.
Here what I know now;
1. Fuel pump works. As indicated by the red auxellery jumper lead inside the engine well.
2. Good fuel pressure.
3. Starter checks good.
4. Battery hot and leads are cleaned.
5. Grounds in engine compartment and at fuel tank are cleaned.
6. Vehicle does have gas.
7. Air bag light stays on, even after pulling battery leads, letting set, and reinstalling.
This ABS light would come on and go off independently before the "crank but no start condition". So I'm assuming that the ABS might be its own problem; but not contributing to the crank but no start condition? There were problems leading up to the no start condition. Vehicle began to become hard to start (but would start). After starting (at idle) if the gas pedal was pressed aggressively, the "service engine" light would flash on and off rapidly and the "ABS" light would come on. At this point the vehicle wanted to die. No apparent codes were given.
Now the "crank but no start condition". Before this problem, the vehicle was sending the code for 3 o2 sensors. But a new fuel filter corrected this problem completely with no further apparent problems. Then (about 4 weeks later) the "crank but no start". I do not think the fuel filter and the "crank but no start" problems are related.? No other maintenance has been done to this vehicle that might cause this problem. At this point the manual I am using is useless...
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1997 F150 4x4 210,000 4.6L Windsor 5 Speed. Engine totally rebuilt 15k ago (besides for timing chains and tensioners). No codes thrown.
This morning when i started my truck, it made a knocking sound (almost like metal slapping) that seemed to be coming from the bottom end of the engine. At first I thought it was a spun bearing, but then the sound went away after a minute or 2. I have Google'd the problem, and have found a few diagnoses such as: oil draining back from the filter (or something like that), or an exhaust manifold leak that stops when the metal warms up and expands, or even the starter motor not being aligned right and not disengaging properly...
This is the first time this truck has ever done this. I changed the oil and filter about 1000 miles ago with 10w-30 oil and I believe a WIX filter. Also, this is the first time using the WIX filter
The weather this morning was around 51*F, so not too cold (to me).
Also, a few weeks ago when I changed my oil, I noticed milky white stuff only on the bottom of the oil cap, and in the feed neck. The rest of my oil looked like perfect used oil. After I noticed the milky stuff, about 2-3 times a week I would clean the stuff out of the neck and off of the cap. Just recently, there hasn't been as much milky fluid. My coolant level has not changed since I marked it during the oil change. A few buddies have said it might be condensation, but it's never been like this before.
I guess my question is, is this something that could put my truck out of service if left untreated? I'm assuming it's not a spun bearing because the noise goes away, but is there a possibility coolant could be leaking into the case but stay the same level in the reservoir?
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My 1997 f150 4.2L 2 wheel drive truck has been running rough only in the morning. In the last year I have changed the plugs, wires etc. As soon as I start the truck and attempt to drive, it is very hesitant, runs rough etc., but if I only give it a little gas and not push it - the truck will run fine. This will only last about 45 seconds and then it runs normal for the rest of the day. I do not have original FORD sparkplugs and someone told me that might be why. I spoke to a mechanic (did not work for Ford) and he told me it wouldn't make a difference.
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F150 2001 265,000 Super crew 5.4 Fuel Injection ... Runs great. Good gas mileage. Outstanding workhorse.
The problem only occurs on cold mornings. The engine turns over easily and fires right off. Most of the time it will idle fine without any throttle. Hower, the slightest pressure on the gas pedal that the rpm drops and the engine stalls. It starts right back up same problem.
I come back later in the day and it starts and runs fine with and without load. No codes and the the fuel pump, fuel filter, and been replaced--no change.
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I bought this truck new, then sold it to my son, now I bought it back from him. it has sat a lot the last three years. replaced egr valve 08-13, fuel filter 12-13. CEL has been on for a while 02 sensor, it had a bad miss in it so had advance auto scan it and it had miss in #3,#5 and I think he said high pressure exhaust gas? he cleard the codes, so on the way home, It started running good.
The next day it started right up and drove it a couple blocks. it sat for 30 min. then wouldn't start. I cranked it for a while. No gas smell? Hooked a timing light up and didn't get no light? I am not sure if you can check to see if its firing this way? What is the firing order? how to check the fuel pressure? when I have removed gas cap it doesn't make any sound from pressure in the tank. Also how to test coil?
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Here's the deal. Ive got a 2000 f150 4.6 4x4xlt 170000 miles, About 2 ears ago or so the truck would not start on the first try or two. now this only occurred every once and a while. Last winter it became more of a problem. All i had to do was cycle the key a couple times listen for the pump to prime and was good to go. Summer rolls around no problem at all. Fall rolls around and here we go again no prime. cycle the key a couple times good to go. As it gets colder the problem gets worse. No we fast forward to couple a weeks ago, was out in the woods cutting firewood i go to move the truck and it wont start. I have to cycle the key like 30-40 times. Now its doing it like every time i go to mov the truck until yesterday. Now it wont prime at all. Now every time it primed in the past it runs perfect after it starts . the filter has been changed every 12-15000 or every fall, Ive replaces the fuel pump relay to try it no change, tryed the other key no difference. Im leaning towards a pump but ive never heard of one doing this before.
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2003 F150 5.4L Tow Package 140k miles... Had coils, all plugs/wires replaced two years ago due to vibe climbing hills. Now at startup in the morning for a minute or two during idle, the engine vibrates severely then subsides and runs fine rest of day. Doesn't do this every morning. Truck lives in FL. The issue is either temperature related or moisture related. Ford service has the truck presently and attempting to diagnose from an overnight stay. They already 'fixed' the problem last week by replacing #1 plug/wire and resetting the power control module (pcm) but two days later the problem came back. Tech said today that the plugs currently installed are Bosch (any issue with these plugs?)
2003 F150 5.4L 140k miles
2011 Expy 5.4L 44k miles
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My truck is trying to start its self the lights flash and one of the relays makes a loud buzzing sound. I can take the relay out the sound stops but they truck still tries to start/lights flash.
My wife has been saying she's been hearing a clicking as she drives it coming from the drivers side somewhere she thinks under the dash. But at this point nothing happen. And it had not been raining any when this was happening not for a long time.
The first time anything mechanical happen was only the lights came on and stayed on and drained my battery about a week after wife heard the clicking noise. I recharged the battery and chalked it up to my wife maybe bumping the light switch slightly causing them to stay on and not auto on and off. truck ran fine for a couple of weeks then wife drove it again the other day and after she got home she called me at work saying it was making a bad buzzing sound lights were on and its trying to crank, while it was sitting in my driveway with no one in it (sacred her to death).
That day it was raining. Now I had a small drip coming from driverside window inside so I thought maybe went down on my fuse box. So today I tried to get it out but having a hard time getting cables to disconnect so i left it and inspected really well and it does not appear to have been wet at all. Dust on top no water trails or marks same from side bottom and in the fuse holder. So i really don't know whats going on. Maybe still is fuse box?
2000 f150 5.4l 4x4 ......
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Have 2000 Ford XLT Extended Cab 4x4 with 5.4. It will not start. Put the ignition in on position and can't hear the fuel pump running. Fuse Okay, Relay OK. Does this year have A Fuel Pump Driver Module? If so, where is it located? I know where they are located on 2004 and up but not mine. If I have to change out Fuel pump, is it easier to pull the tank or the Bed?
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2000 F150 4.6L Romeo 2WD. Engine cranks great. Fuel pump working. Changed fuel filter. Will not start. No codes. Fixed A/C day before yesterday, only had air coming out defroster, disintegrated vacuum hose at firewall. Ran errands yesterday, no problems whatsoever. Get in truck today to go to work and no start at all, engine turns over fine. What next?
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2000 ford f150 4.6 auto. Will spin over but won't start. checked coil for fire, no fire. Check fuel rail for fuel, no fuel. No theft light flashing and no check engine light on. Has new battery and plenty of fuel in tank. Started fine yesterday but not today.
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2000 2WD 4.6L ... I was trouble shooting why the truck will not start after it has run for awhile then sits for about an hour. I was checking the connections on the solenoid switch on the fire wall when my wrench slipped and touched both terminals on the solenoid and the engine starter kicked in. I tightened the connection then tried to start the truck with no luck. so I tried leaving the key in the "ON" position and jumped the two terminals and the truck started. Does this tell me I have a bad solenoid switch?
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Have a problem with starting. Truck had an alarm system that I took off. Reconnected the wires back to factory. Installed a new battery-starter cable. Checked and had no radio and no power windows. Found two relays missing and one fuse under the hood missing. Installed new. Tried again and have all accessories but will do nothing when turning key to start. With key on I can jump across solenoid by starter and it will start. Once started it will not allow me to shift out of park. If I shut truck off and turn key to on position I can shift out of park and into neutral and jump across solenoid and it runs. Once I shift back into park it kills the truck and we start all over again. I've traced wires and fuses and can't find anything. 2000 f150 xlt 4x4 5.4l....
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I have a 2000 f150 with 200k miles. I have no spark and no gas at the fuel rail Schrader valve. I have replaced the shaft pos sensor, no start. I have checked the fuses and the relays. I have crawled under truck and listen for the fuel pump to turn on while someone turned the key to on and heard nothing. I have 2 keys and while turning the key to on and start, the THEFT lite flashes. I have checked the impact sensor on the passing sick panel, it hasn't been tripped.
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Replaced cups 3ish years ago
Replaced IPR (non- Motorcraft) and ICP last year
New (not remans) PIS Stage 1 injectors with Hydra Flash October
Truck has been running and starting (down to 19 degrees) like a dream since the new injectors. After the last fill up the truck has been harder to start in the morning and if I don't let it warm up till at least until the needle moves it will stall and be difficult to start. Once started and up to temp it runs just fine but will definitely take aa few extra turns to get started whether cold or hot.
There is CEL, I don't smell or see any diesel in the coolant, oil looks good and the diesel in the filter is kind of a clear blue? The way it acts when it stalls is kind of like when the IPR went bad the first time... kind of. The few times I was able to get my phone connected fast enough I saw and IPR duty cycle in the 90s flash and a HPOP pressure of 1500 or so flash all while the truck is barely hanging on to an idle.
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I have a 2000 E350 boxtruck with a 5.4 auto. The motor is a new rebuilt with about 4000 mile, coils were replaced with motor, injectors were rebuilt with motor.Today (500 miles from home) the truck died. I was going up a slight hill on an interstate. It will still start, but runs very rough and when I put it in gear and step on the gas it dies.
So I had it towed to a garage. While pushing it into the garage I noticed my gas cap was missing. I know it was on 45 min earlier because I got gas. Did I forget to put in back on? probably.. But I wondering if the missing gas cap could cause the truck to run bad,vary bad?
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Recently I've noticed more that when we first start the hyundai in the morning or after sitting a while and we use the brakes it grinds/ squeals a little and then doesn't after about 2 or 3 miles. Is this something to get checked out or should I spray something on my brakes to lubricate?
My next step that I though of was to get a simple automatic car wash cause it's been a bad winter in Rhode Island and the street shave been flooded with rock salt. I figure that might cause some friction under the pads.
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