Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2000 - No Air Blowing Through Heater
Jan 11, 2014
My 00 f-150 is not blowing air through the heater I replaced heater core and the temp door I had same problem before work done I did not see an issue when apart but no vacuum or electric to test when apart. The only thing that changes when I move selector for vent floor and defrost I do get a little better flow when on vent. My feet get cold and defrost is not working well if I put hand on defrost I feel warm air but 3-4" away when on floor; I feel nothing anything at all fan seems fine.
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This problem is on my son's 2000 F-250 5.4. It's into October and my son tells me he has no heat coming out of his vents. I figure it has to be the control valve that should be in the heater hose lines. Could be jammed closed or a vacuum line has come off the pot that controls the open close cycle. We open the hood and nowhere can we see a coolant control flow valve. It is so tight and dark under all that mess of wires, intake, air conditioner lines and whatever.
Just where should we be looking for the valve. Also it could be the vacuum line is unplugged on the dash, behind the warm/cool selector. And even there is a possibility that some doofus has removed something. He bought the truck this summer. So to get us on the right path, where we start looking for the flow control valve?
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We got our first taste of fall weather in Houston this weekend, and with it I've discovered a new problem with my truck. After the engine was up to temp, I noticed that the heater would blow cold air any time I sat at idle. If you rev up the rpm's to 1500-2000, you can feel the air start to get warm again. I'm guessing this means my heater core needs to be backflushed.
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98 F150 2wd 5.4 -even though VIN says its "W" 4.6; it has a 5.4 with 4.6 timing setup-found. But that's a whole other story...
So, Replaced heater core. did the blend door too.
A week later it overheated and blew a heater hose off the core at the firewall (several times). Temp was up and down, forced me into cylinder head protect mode, so i called my mechanic.
Mechanic used a sniffer (blue liquid turns yellow) in my overflow tank and there was exhaust gas in it... so we replaced head gaskets, intake, timing, water pump, radiator and the rotted out rad support.
Got it done and back on the road, but a few weeks later and the heater hose quick disconnect blew off again, spewing coolant all over (again). This was what we thought was part of the original problem- head gasket allowing cylinder compression into the coolant passages. the little rubber hose that comes from the back of the intake and goes up into the heater core builds enough pressure to pop the disconnect right off and I dont know why. Like I said- I thought it was the head gasket blowing pressure into it but that's all been replaced. Why the pressure would be so high at that point, and how do I correct this?
This is my daily driver, so for now I've bypassed the heater core, but I'm afraid that pressure is gonna burst a hose and/or fitting again.
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I'm driving a 2000 F150 with the Triton V8 5.4L.
My check engine light came on the other night while heading home. I went to Auto Zone and had them scan it and it came back with the P0125 error code.
My guess is that the thermostat is faulty because my heater is blowing lukewarm air after about 20-30 minutes of normal driving and I would expect the air to be much warmer so I'm thinking that the engine is not getting up to normal operating temperature.
I understand that this can be bad for fuel economy and such, but my question is it safe to drive?
I had planned on hunting up in the hills tomorrow all day and just want to know if this could cause any damage?
Here's a picture of what my cluster looks like after running for about 30 minutes.
Cluster after 30 minutes of driving.
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My hubby is working on a 2000 F150. The heater does not get hot. He has checked the blend door and it is functioning correctly. Is there a valve on the back of the engine that shuts the water off going to the heater core?
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I cant find my original post but I am reporting back on a low heat output issue. Not the climate door. It was the heater core clogging up. Instead of replacing, this is what I did. Purchased a "drill pump" and some clear hose and some CLR. Cut both the heater hoses,taking consideration of where best to install "T" connectors.
While hoses disconnected,filled heater core with CLR(as much as I could get in it). Hooked clear hose,drill pump configuration,on to the heater hoses. Ran drill pump in both directions for several minutes and stopping and letting it sit for a few minutes.
About 1 hour all together. Pieces of debris came out of the heater core and I could see it through the clear hose. Flushed the heater core out. Installed "T" connectors and it is heating very well now.
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My heater seems to not be blowing as much hot air as it used to in my 01 Accent GS 1.6 L. The air is warm, but it is not warm like it is supposed to be. All selectors work well eg. fan speed and temp selector. Engine is running normal operating temps too. So in the end, it takes forever to get warm in the car, and to keep it nice and warm, it has be on fan speed 3. if not, the car will lose the warm air faster than it can push it out.
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I took my 2000 V6 Passat into the shop because my heater vents were blowing cold. They tested the system and told me the following:
The hoses leading to the heating core are warm, but no warm air is leaving the heater core, indicating that it's plugged up with corrosion. They testing the coolant fluid and found that the incorrect coolant had been put into the system and that the fluid was carrying an electrical charge that must be corroding the aluminum portions of the system. In addition, the engine temp sensor is kaput and never goes up.
They offered a garden hose flush the heating system for a few hundred bucks, but warned that it is only 50% successful. They recommend replacing the heating core.
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After changing my CD player, my heater blows out cold air (not icy cold but cold like you have put the thermostat on low heat) all the time but my temperature gauge is perfectly normal! Its right in between cold and hot.
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The heater fan stopped blowing the other day. The fuses check out ok. What would be the most likely culprit after that? relay? Switch? Blower motor?
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Last summer my A/C and blower stopped working while I was driving on a hot day in July. After replacing blower resistor, the fan works but still no A/C. I tried recharging refrigerant but the pressure in the lines was too high. Also it didn't seem A/C compressor was working either. I suffered through the hot summer only to find when winter came the Heat quit working as well. I noticed antifreeze smell in cabin and put liquid aluminum to stop the leak and still no heat. I planned on pulling the dash and replacing the heater core but wondered while the dash is off could there be something to replace in here on the A/C as well?
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My commute into the office was more difficult than usual because of the fumes pouring out of the vents. I have a 1997 F-150 5.4 V8. should I remove both in and out hoses from the firewall and connect them with a plastic fitting not to risk breaking the aluminum fittings on the motor?(There is an advanced a mile away) OR is it possible for me to remove the in hose from the firewall and remove the out hose from the motor, and run the in hose directly into the motor. Are the fittings the same and can I do that with limited time and tools?
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I took the dive into a new heater core, as the heater was not getting hot. These are the things I did while on my adventure.
1. Before reinstalling the hoses, I blew thru them to make sure of no clogs...water flew out the other hose..no problem..no clog.
2. inspected mix door not cracked or broken...no problem
3.actuator opens and closes ok, I assume, I can hear the motor run and the door thump closed...no problem
4. water and anti freeze level good....no problem
Start vehicle,let warm up, turn on heat.....No Heat...
5. check hoses at core, one is hot ,the other is not....Problem...
1997 f150 4x4 ...
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I have a 2000 f-150 4x4 that has only high fan speed for a/c heater. Speeds 1-2-3- no longer exist. Is it a switch or a control module? Also, the door code for the rear differential is 19; is that limited slip?
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I've replaced my heater core and blend door in my 2000 and getting ready to button things up. Can I hook up the heater hoses after the plenum top is screwed on to keep the core from moving when pushing on hose connections?
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I have a 2001 F150, 2WD, 5.4L. Neither the heat nor the air conditioning works. The blower works fine on all settings, and the air blows out of the correct ducts in accordance with the switch settings. The problem is the heat does not blow hot, and the AC does not blow cold. Everything is just the temperature of outside air.
If I jumper power to the compressor at the relay socket in the fuse box, I can make the compressor run and it provides cold air. The relay does not seem to be the issue because replacing the relay does not work. The heater core is hooked up, just no hot air.
I was thinking maybe the problem is in the temperature level switch in the dash panel. Does that sound like the best possibility? Do you think these problems are connected, or am I looking at two different issues.
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I have a 97 f150 4.2L 5 Speed that is only blowing hot air. A/C lines are cold when A/C is on, but coming out of vents hot. When I turn the temp selector, on cold the air is warm to hot, but when turned to hot, it gets a lot hotter. Not sure how Fords operate (left my Chevy behind and got a ford). Blend door, thermostat, vacuum line, or actuator? Where to begin? Radiator and cooling system full with no air in lines and no leaks. Hope it's nothing too big.
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Got an 01 f150 excab with the 5.4 as of lately sometimes when i turn the 1-4 blower control know it wont do anything on heat or ac than other times it will work like it supposes to?
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1998 F150 step side, 4.6 V-8 automatic, 176,000 miles -
Heater begins to blow heat as the engine warms up - heat gauge moves up to normal level - running at speed, suddenly the heater blows all cold, the heat gauge pegs to total hot - the oil light comes on, the engine begins to miss - stop the truck, shut off the motor, wait 10 seconds, start back up and all is normal and away I go. Heater working just fine. Gauges are just fine. Have checked the hoses when it pegged to hot, and they are just warm just as if everything is normal.
Problem is intermittent.
Have changed radiator reservoir cap, thermostat, made sure fluid level and mixture is correct - what else to check? Computer issue?
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How to replace the heater core?
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