Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2000 - Leaf Springs Rattles - Fix?
Jul 11, 2013
My wife's 2000 SCAB 4x4 has been rattling for a while now. I have been able to figure out that the culprit(s) are the metal bands on the leaf springs, which are somewhat loose and causing the rattle. I have squeezed them with a large c-clamp on a couple of occasions, which seems to have provided a temporary fix, but as soon as the suspension cycles fully they stretch out again, and begin making noise. How to tighten them permanently? Or is there a replacement/upgrade to fix it?
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I bought some new leaf springs for my 2000 F150XL and noticed one is different only slightly, it being in the arch one is 7 15/16 which is correct, but the other is 8 1/8. how much variable do they allow, will it make that big of a difference or will i be able to notice it after there on. I am happy with them but don't want to put them on and then the truck set uneven??? the reason for replacing the ones still on the truck is they are twisted and apparently broke they are 2/1 springs and having the new ones i can tell the #2 spring on the truck now are shorter like the ends are broke off and the clips moved around allowing for them to twist, so i really needed new ones.should i put the taller arch on a particular side or should i just put them on....
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As the title says are my front leaf springs bad? I got this truck 2 years ago and replaced all the ball joints, shocks, sway bar links,front hubs, rotors and brakes along with all the seals. I have a clunk in the front and I can't figure out what it's coming from. Could my leaf springs be clacking together? Truck
is a 2000 F250 SD v10.....
Driverside front
Rear spring
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I have a 2000 F350 that was once a work horse. Its now just my daily. The leaf springs in the rear have 2 broken on each on and the front need to be replaced due to 344K miles on them too. My question is how do I soften up my ride on leaf springs though? Theres a local shop that will do the work, but my rears have 7 leafs / front 2. It used to tow daily but I dont tow anything with it. could I go to 5 in the rear to soften it?
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I tried to replace the rear spring bushing of the drivers side front leaf spring.
Got the nutz off the shackle... The lower bolt was bumping into the front drive shaft and would not come out all the way.
Biggest problem I was having seemed to be I could not get the axle to drop far enough to release the pressure on the bolts in the shackle.
NOTE: I was trying to do this without unbolting the U-Bolts from the axle.
I was under the impression you could do this without unbolting the u-bolts. I have all new hyperflex suspension bushings and would like to get them on.
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I got an 03 f250 with a 10 inch lift on 40x14.50 tires on 20x10 fuel hostage wheels. They rub my springs pretty bad when trying to make even the slightest kind of tight turn and the sound they make when they rub is even worse than them actually rubbing. My question is should i stay with this tire and wheel setup and try to get some 6061 billet aluminum 2 inch spacers? (I'm not sure about going that route though because of what i heard about spacers) or go down to some 38s with a 20x14 wheel that hopefully would push the tire away from the hub like spacers would do. I'm leaning more towards going to 38s because of the rubbing and also because I feel they might look better on the 10 inch lift rather than the 40s but dont know whats the best thing to do.
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My truck in the signature is 21 years old on original Leaf's. Is it time to change them? Do the backs last longer than the fronts?
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Been chasing this for a few weeks and getting fed up. Have a bad metal on metal "creaking" noise from the front at low speeds.
Background - Replaced springs with X code front and modded C code rear from Junior at ATS. Also replaced shocks at the same time. All hardware tightened with weight on suspension. Have rechecked torque on ubolts many times, even loosened and retightened both ends of the shackles, sway bar links, shocks, etc.
Can't get the noise to go away. Hard to pinpoint exactly where it's coming from but you can "feel" the noise in the back half of the front springs.
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Trying to figure out if my front leafs are factory or not. I assume so but they look extremely weak for a 9k rig.
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This is my dads f250 build date of 9/03. I know these wheels are not the factory xl wheels. I also think they changed something with the wheel back spacing somewhere around this time. He is running 285/70/17 bfgs and is rubbing the leaf springs pretty good. He ran this same size on his previous 02 model with no rubbing. Can he get away with 1/4 spacers? What years these wheels are from? And the backspacing differences, if any. His 02 had the chrome large bullet hole style wheels.
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I have a 99 SD 250 diesel, I also have a broken rear leaf spring. My truck has a 3 1/2 in. block between axle and leaf. My question is this. Can I remove the block and install 4" lift leaf springs without messing up my pinion angle? The blocks look square. But someone toldme once they are made to a specific angle for rotating pinion for better u joint alignment. Sounds like it could be true.
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I decided to go ahead and do a rear block replacement. I'm going to install the Ready lift 4 inch blocks.
I have both u bolts and nuts off of both sides. Rear stabilizer bar disconnected and both shocks disconnected. However, when I raise the rear of the truck, the axle raises as well. What could be holding it on still? I noticed there's a nut in the middle of the leaf springs. Do I take that nut off? I just don't know what could be keeping it from separating.
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I just put some toyo at2 295.75.16. On my 04 250. And I've got some rubbing on the plastic and front leaf springs. If a 2.5 " spring left will take care of the rubbing or will I need wheel spacers.
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...So I think the time has come to replace the rear springs in my SuperCrew....They are starting to sag...nothings broken...spring perches look ok. Question is , Are the supercrew springs any different than a reg cab or supercab?
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I have a 97 f150 4x4 with the 4r70w and it shifts a bit slow between first and second. So I've been doing my research and figured id try to put new 1-2 accumulator piston and springs in. What are the part numbers so I don't order the wrong stuff.
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On my 2003 f150 4 by 4 I've been hearing clicking noises. When i take off from the start it starts clicking then gets faster up until I hit about 30 mph then goes away. The sound is coming from the back. Whenever I goes in reverse it rattles a little bit too (not so much of the clicking). Do I have a bad u joint somewhere back there?
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My front passenger leaf spring just broke on my 2000 f-350. My front springs are T code, but I was wondering if a could replace the broken one with a code X spring as a temp fix until I get a leaf spring replacement delivered?
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I need to replace rear spring packs on our
97 Explorer sport 4.0 auto 4x4.
What years should I look for? Will 91-01 packs work?
I know of a 92 4x4 close by that is being parted out.
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I recently purchased a 2000 Ex Limited 2wd. It is stone stock except a slight lift. This lift gives it a pretty significant rake that I'm not a fan of. I'd like to get this thing leveled out without spending a fortune and I believe that would require the knowledge of the FTE.
The pictures below show the rake and existing suspension mods. With 285/75 16 Tires there is about 6" clearance from tire to fender on the front and 9.5" in the rear. It has a 2" spacer under what I imagine is the stock front coil spring and a 4" block below what do not appear to be stock leaf springs (guessing because the anti wrap spring is not present).
I'd like to get the front end to sit about 3" higher than it currently is to better match the rear. Lifts of any type are foreign to me. What front springs (and other components) do I need (and what brands would you recommend based on hard earned experience) to make this thing work?
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I have a 2000 F150 with 4.6l triton 125k miles. i have a bad miss ONLY between 1500 and 2000 rpm. This will happen in any gear and in neutral, but only between those rpm's. seems to happen more constant in warm weather. This miss is so bad it feels like the transmission is going to fall out. but since it does it in neutral i doubt tranny problems. things I've replaced: fuel filter, tranny fluid and filter, crankshaft pos. camshaft pos, TPI, MAF, spark plugs, Ignition coils ( all 8) cleaned throttle body ( found 1 EGR port clogged completely )..
I had a couple codes but nothing constant. Been working on this for about 1 year. Codes p0320 (ignition speed input error) p0262 (injector circuit high cylinder #1). my only question here is...... What would only make this dang engine miss between 1500 and 2000 rpm. motor runs perfect thru all other ranges. idle... high speed.. and even throttling through this bad range is ok.. but when stabilizing between 1500 and 2000 starts jerking and missing like no fuel and no fire. i have put in superchip program couple years ago and it ran fine for about 1 year, then this trouble started... I have put back to stock program but still trouble.
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I recently replaced Sway Bar Links on my 2000 X (V10, 4x4, 155k). They were only a year and half old but the bushings had gave way. Mechanic went with an OEM part with a new design from NAPA. This new design added grease fittings. Now the truck rattles constantly and seems to have more sway. Shocks are probably originals, but I don't think they are the main cause. I can tell the rattle is coming through the frame. All my suspension is stock.
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