I bought this truck an it ran good then one day it started knocking really bad so i replaced the crank shaft an bearings. Put everything back together started the truck an it ran like crap an i just happened to check the oil an it is milky. All the water in y radiator is now in the motor oil an truck has no power...
View 2 RepliesI looked under my truck and noticed a Antifreeze Leak I looked under the truck and noticed the antifreeze leaking around the crank shaft. I have never seen a leak from that area. I haven't pulled anything just want a good direction before I start pulling parts off.
I looked up top didn't see any hoses leaking. looked all around the block. the only place I can see it coming from is behind the crank shaft pulley somewhere.
2001 F150 XLT 4X4 ....
I have developed an oil leak from the bottom of the front crank shaft (front of the motor). How hard of a repair is this? any links to any tutorials? Should I even try this myself? Any special tools required?
View 14 RepliesWe had my son's water pump replaced in his 97 F150. It is now occasionally jumping to completely hot. If you turn it off and back on it returns to normal. The power to the engine is cut when it shows to be overheating. The check engine light has now come on.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2000 F150 with 5.4 L motor. The last two trips I have had the top radiator hose come off while under heavy load (pulling a long hill) after 5 hours of driving. So far I have flushed the radiator, checked the thermostat, and refilled with G05 Gold and distilled water 60/40 ratio. I do not hear any gurgling in the heater core. Heater seems to work great.
The stock temp gauge shows it right in the middle range between Hot and cold, right before it blows the hose off. I have replaced top and bottom hoses and put new stainless steel clamps at all end except the top, where I am using the OEM clamp that came with the truck. I thought about replacing the top clamp as well but did not want to blow out my radiator, if in fact it is developing high pressure.
Do these clamps get weak with time? Should I use a vacuum attachment on the fill/overflow tank to remove all air before refilling?
I have a 76 f250/460 engine. I have replaced the hoses, belts, water pump, fan clutch, flowed the radiator and it still overheats.
View 4 RepliesI've got a 7.3 tranny that has had ELC Coolant and water mixed in with tranny fluid because of a bad radiator. I drained the fluid from the tranny a week ago and when I pulled off the pan today there is still junk in there. I'm planning on putting in a new filter, gasket and Mercon V but how do I clean the old stuff out of there? Picture.....
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 V6 F150 and replaced my alternator in about five minutes and now have been trying to re-install the serpentine belt for about 6 hours. How do you grab the tensioner pulley?
Also I selected the 130 amp new manufactured alternator at Advanced. Auto thinking the 130 amp might be somewhat of an upgrade to my original Motorcraft Alt and after several hours I also discovered them. pulley on the new alternator is about a quarter inch larger in diameter than the original alternator. I wonder if I should compensate for a half inch longer belt or try to get the same one on.
In any case I cannot find a way to grab and move the belt tensioner to allow me to reinstall the belt around the alternator. Are there any pictures anywhere on how to move the tensioner to create slack when reinstalling the belt?
The knocking started very suddenly 2 days ago - but not after any unusual events, other work etc. Truck has 145 K, and otherwise starts & runs perfectly. Doesn't use oil.
I heard it from in the cab, windows closed. At first, thought it may be a rod bearing - but if so, not terribly loud. Didn't drive it any more after getting home. But starting it in the drive, the knocking was audible.
Then I discovered it * completely disappeared * several times, after shutting off engine, then restart a few seconds later. When that happens, absolutely no knocking at idle or reeving it up a bit. But it may return on the next 1 or 2 restarts, then disappear again.
Since the knocking * completely stopped * on some restarts, does that rule out a bad rod or main bearing?
I haven't seen oil gauge pressure fluctuation, whether it's knocking or not. The gauge is where it's always been - well above 1/2 way. But, the gauge also doesn't move when I rev it to around 2000 RPM (? may be normal not to move, after engine's already running?). When the knocking is happening, increasing RPMs also increases the knocking frequency.
Can't hear the knocking from top side of engine w/ hood open - even using rubber hose to my ear & moving it around. But (when) it knocks, can easily hear it inside the cab or under the truck.
From underneath, knocking is more in the center of truck, near the back of block / oil pan or tranny bell housing. I can't isolate the noise as more on one side of the block than the other.
Could the oil pump itself be making a knocking noise? The knocking is "similar to" a rod knocking, but doesn't seem quite as "hammer on metal" metallic.
There are no DTCs showing on my scanner. Only odd thing was, for "O2 Monitor Test," it showed "vehicle did not return data for any O2 monitor test." Though under the scanner "I/M Monitors," it shows O2 Sens Mon. "OK," and O2 Sens Htr "OK."
2000 supercab 4x4 166k miles. Starts right up in morning no probs. Drive to work shut it off and turn key it does NOTHING. Gauges light up, etc but wil not crank. Let it sit all day and it will fire right up. Battery, starter solenoid? Looking for place to start. Won't crank in neutral either.
View 2 RepliesFor a while now I've been having issues with my truck overheating. Generally when I slow down, come to a stop, after driving a while. The other I replaced the radiator cap, as coolant was bubbling out after driving far. Thermostat was replaced. Radiator was flushed today as there was some rusty color build up. Added engine oil as it was VERY low the other day. So far I'm still getting the overheating issues and it seems to happen more so when I run my AC. I've noticed no significant leaking from anywhere else after replacing the cap. I'm thinking of either the water pump or the fan? But I dont know how to know for sure and I dont want to replace parts that I dont have to as a waterpump alone is $50-60.
View 2 RepliesI have replaced booster, master cylinder, all four callipers, and bled the brake system a number of times on my 2000 F-150 4x4. and still the pedal is wicked spongy, is there some other problem?
View 6 RepliesI bought a 2003 Pontiac Grand Am a month ago, I have already replaced the power steering pump, the water pump, plugs and wires, new battery. It was running fine I drove it last night, but the radio has said loc since I bought it. Then today I got in it and tried to start it and it won't start. It turns over like it is going to start but doesn't. I tried the 10 minute reset thing. That didn't work.
View 1 RepliesI successfully replaced the radiator on my 2003 Ford excursion (LMD, V10, gas). I filled her up with coolant and started her and turned on the air full blast.
Noticed though that she is now leaking somewhere between the engine and the transmission pan.Where and what to check?
Iam looking at a 2000 7.3 Powerstroke that has some problems first it is hard to start cranks like it has a dead cyl. Second after starting it has no power not even enough to move. At first it would only run if held wide open but once it warmed up it would idle and rev and move but barely still had a miss. The weird thing is it did not smoke blue-black or white also no strong smell of diesel and no smell of oil at all. The truck has 230ish miles and there are no maintenance records.air filter was new.
View 7 RepliesI am having problems with my truck not sure where to start. It was my everyday truck until one day I got ready to leave for work and the truck wouldn't say anything. It was getting power but no crank no start. Called tow truck he checked battery said that it was good. I got home tried to start truck and it started. I drove to the store and it did the same thing no crank no start. It has 110,000 Sigle cab manual windows...
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 F350 7.3 with standard xmission. Have not messed with it since Oct of last year. Then it would crank but no start. Now when I turn the key there is no wts or nothing the gauges move, and tach moves when cranking, but nothing else.
The cam and crank pos sensors have been changed. The high pressure sensors changed. Now when I hook it to the AE it says cannot connect to truck. Where I need to start? Have checked all fuses that I know about.
I got a 2000 7.3l with 400,000 miles on it that decided to just not start anymore after I parked it for a couple days. Its always been a hard starter due to needing glow plugs but I can deal with that. it doesn't even try to fire anymore. I replaced the CPS (my tack bounces when cranking). The ICP has oil in the plug so I just unplugged it for now till I replace it.
I pulled the IPR and cleaned it really good and bench tested it with 12 volts and could here it clicking so I put it back in. I can get under the drivers door with the key on and hear the fuel pump running. I gain oil pressure on my dash gauge when cranking. I check all my fuses. my WTS light comes on . I just don't have any fancy scan tools to make this easier. Also just cause I was feeling lucky I just went out and bought 2 new batteries for it yesterday so we are good there.
Found icp sensor with oil in plug and codes p1211 and p1212. Icp sensor reading 0 pressure. Changed out icp sensor. Still cranks no start check oil level in hpop resverior, check with brake clean spray nozzle and no oil on it. Filled resverior with oil. She tried to start. Had to put the charger on her and she finally lite off and came to life. Questions, how would that resverior empty out? Was it because I pulled that sensor? Is there s check valve in that resverior hanging up?
View 2 RepliesChasing this knock and I'm starting to get a little bit worried. So I'm looking for what I should do next.
Here is the truck info... 2000 F250 4x4 206k. . Swamps Diesel 200/30's. Terminator HPOP. GTP38R. EBPV delete pedestal. Banks wastegate. AFE stage 2 intake. RiffRaff FRX. 4" exhaust. Hydra chip. John Wood Auto. 6.0 Trans cooler.
I have a knock sound coming from the area of #8. It is noticeably louder in that area with a stethoscope. Its not any louder anywhere else (oil pan, block, otherside of engine, or front). Truck does not smoke and runs and idles great otherwise. Was thinking possibly the cackle/fuel knock issue these trucks have but with bigger injectors and the FRX could this even still be a possibility?! Anyways here is what I've done.
Checked fuel pressure and at idle it is 61/62 with any tune. At WOT on Econ tune it goes down to ~40ish psi. With the extreme tune WOT dived down to 28/29psi. So my thinking was maybe that injector got screwed up so...
Swapped #8 injector with #2 so the front injector with the back to see if either it had some bad o rings or isolate the injector as the problem if the noise moved cylinders with the injector. While I did this I put brand new O-Rings on those two injectors and popped them in. Got it fired up and the knock is still in #8.
Unplugging the injector with the engine running the noise seems to disappear. HOWEVER, when I use the stethoscope the knocking noise still sounds like it's there but very faint. Without the stethoscope I can't hear it. Also driving the truck down the freeway and letting it coast the noise goes away when the injectors get cut off.
Recently pulled off valve cover and checked the pushrods and rockers on #8 and all looked fine. At this point I'm thinking wrist pin, rod bearing or cracked piston??? Could it somehow still be a fuel knock?
I have a 2000 F350 7.3 ... A couple weeks ago I noticed that it was taking longer to start then it should be. Now I have to cycle the key switch 3 or 4 time to get it to start. There is a clicking coming from the relay block under the radio. Sometimes the truck will start sometimes it has to be rolled off. I have recently replace the starter and alternator. I have had the batteries tested and they are good. I replaced the two small relays in the block under the radio, one is for the fuel pump and the other I understand is for the door locks? I also read on here the large blue one is for the turn signal so I have not changed that one. After all this I still have the same problems.
View 9 Replies