Recently purchased a 2000 ford f150 4.2l. started hesitating when i would try to accelerated stressed or when a.c on. if i drive it like a grandpa wont do it. filled up the gas tank and it completely went away. the second it went down to the 3/4 line, started hesitating again. mind you when it was full even with the a.c on and going 80mph on expressway it would not hesitate.
View 2 RepliesSo today my 97 f150, 2wd 5.4L automatic has started giving me some troubles. The truck has 291k miles on it, i bought it with 260k miles on it. About a week ago the truck overheated due to a busted radiator side tank, it was promptly replaced the next day and i have had no problems with it since, till today. Sometimes when you start it it will stumble alive like its out of gas, give it a sec and it settles down. When you get going, its a little down on power, i know it has 291k miles on it but it pulled hard. Its OK till you get to about 35-40, when it just stops accelerating. I had my foot to the floor and it barely went above 40, if you ease into it slowly it will slowly accelerate till about 45, drop down to 40 and then go like normal.
When i changed the radiator i lost about a cup maybe a cup and a half of transmission fluid, i have gotten time to replace it but i didn't think that small amount of fluid would dramatically change performance, the fluid also looked almost new. The only other things i have done to the truck is some brake work and replace the alternator. I have no knowledge of what the previous over did or did not do. It is not throwing any code, and the OD light/button is broken, i think on newer rangers the OD light would would brink indicating transmissions problems, not sure if its the same on these trucks.
I have a 2003 accent 1.6L ... It's been like this for a while, but when filling up, it clicks and stop filling like if it was full, but it is not. I can maybe get 0,30$ worth of gas in before it clicks. Then I have to wait a couple of seconds, and do it again.
I have read that it might be the charcoal filter that is clogged. Is there any way to fix this? from what I have read this filter is inside the gas tank.
I have a 2000 F150 4WD 5.4 running Extremely rich to bank one. The O2 sensors for bank 1 are reading lean(0-50 mV) Bank two is completely unaffected. New plugs in Bank one, 3 new coils in bank one, all pvc lines checked with good vacuum. Previous codes : P0171, P0301-3. The Truck will barely move. Would a small leak up stream of the O2 sensors cause this?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2000 expy with the 5.4 just turned over 200k. I bought the upper and lower radiator hoses awhile back and finally gotta chance to change them out. I noticed i got the wrong bottom hose so I only swapped out the top hose. I filled it back up with 1.5 gal of distilled water. After I drove it about 60 miles I checked the overflow tank and noticed copper colored flakes in it. Im assuming the previous owner put some stop leak in it but not sure Ive never had any problems as far as overheating or losing coolant. What else could it be? Im going to get the right bottom hose and do a flush. Can I use the bottom hose I have, its got the two extra hoses for the oil cooler? I was just going to connect the two hoses together but not sure if that will cause a problem.
View 1 RepliesI am having problem with the gas gauge I have a full tank of gas but the gauge needle is stuck on E but when I unhook the battery and hook it back and start the car the gas gauge needle is on the full and its stays on full for like 3 days and then the gas gauge needle will drop back down to the E and stay there. This sound like something wrong in the fuel pump.
View 2 RepliesMy 2000 Subaru Outback automatic, with 95,000 miles is intermittently stalling. No check engine light, no sputtering, engine temperature & oil pressure fine; it will just be running and then it isn't. It has happened with a 1/4 tank gas and with a full tank of gas. Primarily it has happened after driving around on a hot day, with some highway driving, city driving, running errands- so stopping for a while, then when I head home and gain altitude (another 2000-2500 ft), it will stall when I take my foot off of the accelerator to make a left turn, or go around a blind right curve, but not every time. When it has stalled once, it tends to repeatedly stall when I take my foot off of the gas.
It always starts right back up again with no problem. It happened once in town right after I filled up with gas, but didn't repeatedly stall after that.It has been to my mechanic 3 times and no codes come up with scan. The AF sensor (idle control valve) was replaced twice, throttle body cleaned (although not bad), crank sensor checked, fuel trim checked, wires, battery checked, hoses checked, reprogramming of ECU checked- not needed, no recalls/reflashes, nothing found. I don't want to end up stranded on a lonely mountain road with fires approaching, or getting broadsided when it stalls in a left turn.
I have recently purchased a 2001 Accent GS which has the 1.6L DOHC engine and have done a big road trip in it which has created a problem. When I fill the fuel tank up it runs really rough, has no power, and stalls at idle unless I keep the revs up. I can also smell petrol very strongly in the car all the time, plus it's running really rich as I can smell fuel on the exhaust and the last symptom is the loss of power down low(due to running rich).
I was on my road trip so had no tools on me and got the local mechanic of a small town to do a few basic things (change spark plugs, leads, and fuel filter) but to no avail. It runs smoothly when it gets below the full line on the fuel level gauge so I just didn't fill it up completely to get the car home but it still runs really rich and doesn't have quite as much power.
I've been having a very erratic fuel gauge issue as of about 2 months ago. My fuel level would register full, when in fact I knew it only had 1/2 a tank or so. Then 5 minutes later it would be pegged on full. Under a 1/2 tank the gauge would read any where from 1/2 to empty from 1 minute to the next. So last week I decided to drop my tank and take a look. I was thinking maybe my fuel sender was broken, maybe a loose wire in the tank, or even that my float had dropped off in to the tank.
After dropping the tank, I removed the PK-Up and sending unit and everything was intact. I placed my ohm meter on the sending unit and it checked out fine. So I took the Pk-up and rolled back up underneath the truck and plugged it back in. I had my son turn the key on and off while I moved the float to different levels in order that it would register. It registered empty, 1/4/, 1/2, 3/4 and full just fine as I moved the float to those levels. If you leave the key in the run position and move the float, it won't register or better said, the in cab gauge will not adjust with the movement.
You have to turn the key off move the float and hold it there, then have your assistant turn the key on and the gauge will show the position that you've moved and held it at. I simply removed the plastic cover from the sending unit, and sprayed it down real good with electrical contact cleaner. I didn't scrub the copper contact area at all.
I was concerned that scrubbing might remove more than I wanted to, and really mess things up. I attached an Ohm meter and checked resistance thru out the float travel. All checked out good and I reinstalled it. So now my fuel gauge is working as it should be. I did make a video while I ohmed the Sender Unit thru it's travel, but for some reason it won't load.
[URL] ....
I just recently had a new (used) gas tank and new fuel lines (front to rear) put on the car.
On the first fill-up, I pulled out from the gas station, drove 20 seconds to the next red light. The car stalled (automatic transmission) when I came to a stop. It was hard to start and hard to keep going, and had intermittent periods of extreme power loss when I drove it down the highway.
Took it back to the shop, there was an engine code for the O2 Sensor, so the O2 was replaced, but made no difference. They checked fuel pressure and the catalytic converter, both were fine. They wanted me to keep driving it until another code came up.
As the tank neared empty, the car started driving almost perfectly. Filled it up again, and the problems started all over again. I have tried driving it with the gas cap off to make sure air can get in to replace the gas, but made no difference.
I changed the spark plugs, and all 4 of the old ones were covered in black carbon from the fuel running too rich (i assume).
Also, when the car is idling and it starts struggling, the exhaust does smell extremely strongly and is grey.
Now, engine code [P1166 O2S Controller Adaption Diagnosis Malfunction (bank 1)] is appearing (I have to check with the garage monday to see if it is the same code they had earlier).
I'm not sure why a new tank would cause this, unless somehow dirt/rust ended up where it didn't belong during the changeover.
Quick question. If you unplug the vacuum lines from the solenoids will it enable the 4x4? Is there a way to enable the 4x4 full time?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 supercrew 5.4 triton. My coolant temp gauge is acting up. When it starts up its obviously in the cold range but when the truck begins to get up to temp, the gauge only goes up 1/4 full. What it can be?
View 4 Replies2003 Ford F150 XLT - Truck hesitates (or bucks) as the throttle is pressed. Not from a stop though. It starts / runs fine, but no matter how how fast, what gear, hot or cold, it feels like the fuel cuts out for 1/2 second. Also it is not a specific point in the throttle motion. It does it when it is halfway, 3/4 or fully depressed, but is not consistent. It does happen more frequently now than two weeks ago. I am not getting a check engine light.
4.6L V8, 5 Speed Manual 4x4, 74000 mi
I have a 2001 f150 5.4 with 200,900 miles. Just bought the truck about six months ago off my dad when he got a new one. I am now experiencing what seems to be a slight misfire. With the hood up pulling the throttle around 2200 rpm starts making a loud knock. Above that rpm nothing and below that nothing. Standing by the tailpipe it sounds like a small backfire. It Idles really rough and when you get that sound out of the tailpipe it jumps like its hiccuping. And tailpipe is vibrating quite a bit.
Things I have done in the past month include replacing the pcv valve, changing spark plugs, cleaning throttle body, cleaning MAF, took down exhaust to check cats because i was experiencing a power loss and bogging. When the exhaust was off i punched the two rear cats. I ran a bottle of iso heat in the gas. Everything seems to have supported the power problem but now less than a week later i am starting to experience the knock and backfire type sounds.
97 f150 4.6 4x4, no check engine light, no missing or sputtering, however when I try to get going I can't get passed 2500 rpm and when it finally does its still kind of sluggish and can't pass as easy. Changed fuel filter. It idles fine and when I put it in neutral it will go up to 5000 rpm if I want.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1998 f150 w/ the 4.6L V8
For months I have had a hesitation in this truck when i go to accelerate, and at times you can even feel a little buck with the cruise set at 70MPH. It has gotten worse and worse. When i start pulling a trailer good luck, it will do it but its terrible, hesitations and misfiring,
There is always a misfire/hesitation. Will Idle nice After its warmed up. Sat for 2 weeks fired it up and it had a HORRIBLE idle for at least 1-2 min. This is new now it wont idle when cold. Now I had one code Cylinder 4 misfire, cleared the code never came back 2-3k miles later still not back on -
replaced coil packs
New plugs
New wires
Fuel pressure test good
Checked the Heater hose - not leaking and nothing in the hole.
Just bought a 1998 5.4l F-150 Lariat. 136,000 miles.
Question about the overdrive button on trans handle. When I push the button, I don't see any light turn on (or off) and I don't feel any change in the gear ratio or increase/decrease in rpm's. I assume since the button in there marked "overdrive" that the vehicle in fact was equipped with it. Could it be a bad button, fuse, or ?
Also, it just started the shudder/hesitation at certain speeds that I see a lot on these threads. Seems like that is a coil issue as the description in many threads is exactly what I am experiencing to incl the rotten egg/fuel odor. However, it started the same day (not same time, later same day) I decided to push the overdrive button while checking out all the things on the truck.
I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew (5.4 V8, 2WD,Auto trans) and recently when we fill the gas tank, the fuel tank doesn't go all the way up to the "full" line. Don't know if this matters but: about a year 1/2 ago in a little town (while on vacation), we broke down and the trouble was the fuel pump. The little town did have a small auto-parts store, and luckily had the fuel pump we needed. Unfortunately we didn't have much as far as tools and we wound up tearing/cutting the filler hose and the vent line.
The little auto store did not have the correct rubber filler & vent hoses for my truck and would take a few days get in stock. We changed out the entire fuel pump and sender unit, and were able to modify some rubber hoses for a new filler & vent line hose. Everything worked great for a year 1/2 but in the last few weeks we have noticed that when we fill the tank, the gas gauge does not go all the way up to the "F" line to show full. With the price of gas, it is important to know exactly how much is really in the tank. Also, is there a battery in the ceiling console for the temperature and compass? Ours just stopped working yesterday.
I have a 97' F-150 4.6 L and I've been having some fuel gauge issues.... I filled up my tank up and I drove it 130 miles and it still said full tank... even when I had 1/2 I would start it and every time I started it it would jump up all the way to full and slowly drop down. Then randomly last night it started working... I noticed as I hit rough patches in the road and bumps it would usually fluctuate, but it would also fluctuate up... It read I have 3/4 tank last night and I go to start it today and its back up to full! I don't understand... Wouldn't a bad sending unit just stop all together?
View 1 RepliesI got a new to me 1998 F150 a week or so ago but it got parked quickly when I realize the gas tank strap was broken. I took it to a dealer today and they replaced the strap.
View 3 RepliesMy 99 F150 with 200K miles, but running like new, dropped the rusted front gas tank today. I removed it and would like to use the rear tank which is almost new - put in last year.
Is it possible to make it go with only the rear tank? This is only a plow truck (no plates or insurance) just used in my driveway! Top speed for me 4 MPH. hOW TO BE able to get it to run with only rear tank?