Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2000 F150 - Grinding / Squeaking Noise When Backing Up?
Jun 9, 2013
I have a 2000 F150, 94k miles, manual transmission, 2WD
About 6 months ago a slight squeaking sound started when only backing up. Now its progressed to a sort of grinding metal on metal sound with regular driving as well as in reverse. I can hear it the most when its in gear and I take my foot off the gas. I changed the breaks, checked the wheel bearings, did a clutch test, and the u joints look fine. Something weird happened yesterday, while raining out, it didn't make a peep. My drive shaft and u joints have a layer of rust on them...could that be a cause of the noise, and it went away when wet?
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Within the last few days whenever I am backing up there tends to be a low hum noise coming from the passenger side tire when backing up and with no pressure on the brakes. The noise is not present at any time other then backing up so I am really unsure what could be causing it.
What could be causing this before I work on it. I know its not having any problem braking as well as it is also driving straight when the steering wheel is let go in drive.
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1999 FORD f150 4x4 XLT
When i drive the truck straight, turn left, turn right and even backup i get a Squeaking noise coming from the front and it is loud.
When the truck is in park and i turn the wheel back and fourth it still Squeaks even inches at a time turning it i can hear the Squeaking noise.
I can have the truck shut off and i put my weight on the front bumper making it bounce up and down i can still hear the same Squeaking noise
But when i jacked up the front end and turned the wheel back and fourth the nose is gone and seems to be great.
Sounds like the Squeaking noise is coming from the driver side. What this can be?
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I have a creaking/squeaking noise in my suspension that is getting worse and worse. maybe it isn't getting worse, but it sounds worse to me everyday because I am tired of hearing it. I have swapped out my shocks and that did not do the trick. i have tried lubricating the leaf springs and all other suspension parts in there, still nothing. i was thinking about changing out the entire leaf spring package, but exactly what the problem is.
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I have a 2008 Ford Escape, and today I noticed that while backing out of my driveway (downhill) as I pressed the brake pedal it made this grinding noise, but when I got out of the car I looked through the tires and the rotors and pads were fine. I did not get a chance to check the inner side of the rotor or pad yet. What else could this noise be if it's not the brakes? It only makes this noise when I press the brake pedal which is why I thought it was the brakes.
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I am having a major issue with my truck. I replaced all of my brakes about 8 months ago. Replaced everything. Rotors, calipers, pads etc. About 3 weeks ago I pushed on the brakes and they locked up and I heard a loud pop and then grinding. I pulled my wheel and my brake on the right rear had broke the 2 mounting bolts and fell off. So I put the brake back on thinking I hadn't tightened the bolts.
Drove about 7 miles and around the 10th time I stepped on my brakes it did the same thing. So I replaced the brakes again. Calipers caliper mount and pads. I have been driving it 2 weeks and all of a sudden same thing happened. I push on the brakes the right rear locked up and snapped the bolts again. So now I replaced everything rotor calipers etc. Greased everything up and no problems for a day. Do I need to replace the brake mount and where do I get that?
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I'm trying to find out why my truck has a grinding noise on the passenger side when my truck first starts driving for the first 1/4 mile. It stops after that or when I apply the brakes. Do I have a brake sticking or something more serious?
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My 2001 5.4 makes a grinding noise when starting. Not all the time but some of the time. it will always start but it is annoying. Need to know if this would be starter or solenoid?
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I have had this problem since day one. The idle seems to be very rough once you give it some gas and drive the car it runs smooth as silk. The dealer told me that is the wayit should be due to the narrow V6 with one head cylinder. I have had an 02 Passat V6 and I dont remember it having a rough idle.
My other issue is again since day one when I am moving very slow like when I am backing out of my drive way there is what I would describe as a grinding sound. It does it all the time forwards and back, all day not just the first thing in the morning. Again the dealer says it is normal.
I just had my first oil change about 2 weeks ago and was hoping these were just thing that would be addressed then but they dont seem to be better or worse always the same.
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2000 Ford F250 crew cab 4 x 4 with 7.3. 6 speed transmission. I just had a new clutch installed and now I am have a grinding noise when putting it into 1st gear and when I change from granny to first it will grind also. I did not have this issue before having the clutch replaced. I have also just had a new hydraulic clutch kit installed.......
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I have a 2002 f150 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip... For months now every time I hit a bump with the front right side there is a loud bang (sounds like a wore out bushing), and if I am driving slow at an idle you can here a thump every time the wheel goes around. And when I turn all the way it sounds more like a grinding sound.... The noise is getting very bad, what it is. I am very mechanically inclined but cannot figure it out.
Everything in the front end seem tight. When I lay under it if I get someone to spin te wheel the thump sound sounds like its in the front dif, kinda echoes through the front drive shaft but u joints seem good. I really think it's in the dif, and I'm hoping the banging noise I hear when I hit bumps is the same problem as the noise when the wheels go around....
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I recently sold me 91 F-250 and got into a 98 F-150. It's a SuperCab 6.5' bed, 4x4 off-road, 3.55 gears, 5.4 v8 auto. I love the truck, but I am having an issue with a noise at startup.
Every time I start the truck it fires right up but it makes a grinding noise AFTER it starts for about 3-5 seconds. I thought the starter wasn't disengaging in time so I replaced it. The starter I took off was fairly new. It's teeth had just a little wear and the flywheel had no visible wear. I put in the new starter and there was no change at all.
I also changed the oil and filter using Motorcraft 5w-30 oil and a Motorcraft filter. I also started it without the serpentine belt to rule out a pulley bearing. What the noise could be? The truck runs absolutely excellent, by the way.
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I have an 02 F150 super cab Fx4 with a 5.4 engine. Earlier this week my wife pulled up to a stop light and the truck began to buck and jerk while moving. She pulled over and we had it towed back to the house. I pulled into the garage and something felt off, my first thought was rear diff clutches(the truck has 92k). I backed it straight out of the garage the next morning and it was popping and binding while backing up, it would move a little then act like it was up against a curb, then hit the gas, it would pop and move a little more. I popped the rear cover off the diff and the fluid was clean, and I did not see any metal shavings in it. Next I removed the rear brake disc to check if the parking brake shoes grenaded, they are fine.
Right now I have the rear end on jackstands, I put the tranny in neutral and turned the driveshaft by hand in front of the diff. It will turn in one direction and then not go back the other way. Not to sound ignorant, but is that normal operation of the traction lock diff? Next thing, while turning the driveshaft by hand, there is a clicking noise coming from the transfer case area. I slid underneath and could hear it coming from the case. Is this noise normal? I have no other truck around here to compare too. I have used the search function here at the forum, I am just not finding my particular issue. The truck was not in 4wd when this happened either.
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I have a 2003 f150 4X4. Whenever I go around a round about slowly, the truck sort of grind under the frame and shakes a little bit like I am in 4 wheel drive.
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1997 4.6L.. Have an intermittent grinding / dragging noise coming from the pulley (?timing) area that I'm trying to pin down. Both the alternator and tensioner were replaced prior to the noise starting. The ac compressor and the power steering pump are original. The fan clutch was replaced about 4 years ago and the water pump 8 years ago. Timing chain / guides / tensioner are all original.
I don't notice any of the common ps pump indicators (whine increase when steering) but noticed the fluid level was down slightly and that the pulley seems to have some inward - outward play with the belt off. I also don't have any other engine symptoms like rough idle or any codes being triggered. How to isolate the culprit?
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I may, or may not have had to jump a curb at 40 mph to avoid rear ending another car. Truck is a 2003 F-150, single cab stx package, 4.2ltr. Long story short, no damage to my passenger side front tire or rim that I can see, but I do have a horrible grinding noise when I turn the wheel either direction. The truck still turns properly, power steering fluid is level. What should I start replacing first?! She's got about 90k miles on it, I'm sure a lot of the suspension parts are due, just need to know where to start!
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2001 f150 extended cab flareside 4x4 4.6L v8, M5od manual, 196,539 miles this morning. the clutch slave is going out so I have some grinding and extra noise but recently the motor began to run like crap. I took it and coded it. "p0403, cylinder 4 misfire" is what it read on the obd scanner screen... I had a similar issue with the COPs not working and actually allowing water into the spark plug cylinder. I replaced them all at 100,000 miles or so with new motorcraft plugs at that time.
Fixed the problem and nothing since that time. Not sure why I did them all but I did. i was dumber 96000 miles ago. I also took down the intake and cleaned all the ports and crap out of it also. Yesterday took out #4 (on passenger firewall) and it looks fine. No evidence of leak, spark plug a light tan, firing well without problems, and even gaped properly still. My question is first I understood the p0403 to be EGR related, not cylinder #4 misfiring...seems odd.
2nd: I'd like to avoid just throwing parts at this problem. The EGR is simple enough to replace and if that's what is needed so be it. I'd rather do it right the first time. I've checked all of the vacuum lines, fittings, attachments. No leaks detected with smoke/brake fluid tests either. Good suction at the PCV, all good.
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I have a 97 250 LD 5.4 that suddenly has a grinding noise coming from the area where the transmission and motor meet. I took the inspection plate off the transmission and can look up inside there and see everything moving. I use a screw driver and if I flex the plate that mounts between the transmission and the motor I am able to get the noise to quiet down until I release the screwdriver and then the plate flexes back and scrapes making the noise again.
I can not see where the plate is grinding when I look up inside there. I can't figure out how to fix this.... Why it would just start doing this on its own as none of the bolts on the housing have been removed except for the two bolts that hold the starter on. (Changed it a couple of weeks ago). Thought about loosening the bolts on the tranny housing but I'm afraid that it would open me up to further problems???
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I have another issue. I just started having problems when braking. Every time I brake there is thing loud grinding noise that sounds like it coming from the back tires but there isn't a squeaking noise like there is where you need new brakes what else could this be??
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I have a 1997 F150 (truck in signature). In December my passenger side parking brake cable broke so I replaced both rear cables (front cable appears in good condition).
This past Friday the passenger side brake started making a grinding noise so I pulled the drum to find the self adjuster cable broken and the ratchet jammed between the shoe and the drum. I pulled everything apart and put new shoes (the pin the ratchet pivots on was broken off the rear shoe)and all new adjusting hardware (adjuster screw, ratchet, cable, and cable guide). The rest of the hardware looks in good condition (still paint on the springs and retainers). I got everything put together and took it for a test drive, it had a nice firm brake pedal (it's been a while since this truck has had a firm pedal) and great stopping power.
Took it to work today, and on the way back I stopped to pickup a package from the UPS store. I set the parking brake and put the truck in 1st like I always do. When I got back out to the truck to drive home, I released the parking brake but there was still obvious drag as I drove home (no good place to stop during rush hour), got out of the truck and it reeks of burning brakes. I pulled the driver side drum off (after it cooled), which was rather difficult, and everything looks to be in order except the rear shoe was not touching the post at the top of the backing plate. I checked and the adjuster was still all the way in, so that isn't the issue.
I pulled the parking brake cable out to slack the drum side of it (with the pedal released there is some spring tension from the pedal mechanism) and clamped it with vice grips so the cable was slacked and the shoes were then touching the post, and the drum could be installed and turned relatively easily, I then removed the vice grips and let the spring pull the tension out of the cable and the brake held firmly (requiring considerable effort to turn the drum). Is there anyway to adjust the spring tension on the parking brake cable when the parking brake is released?
Additional notes: when setting the parking brake, the pedal will only go down an inch or 2 before the brakes are locked up tight and the pedal won't move, it used to go down several inches before. also I noticed that the feral on the end of the drivers side cable (that locks into the lever attached to the rear shoe) is deformed, like the cable has too much tension on it. The cables are the correct ones for my wheel base according to Autozone but I'm starting to wonder if they are too short. Spring tension on the parking brake cable (when the brake is not set) causes the parking brake to drag. How do I get the parking brake to stop dragging? ("star" adjusters are new and adjusted all the way in).
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I replaced the driver's side e-brake cable on my 99 F150 due to the cable pulling through the backing plate (I think the backing plate hole either wore or rusted out bigger). The new cable is doing the same thing and now I cannot drive because if you depress the e-brake one time, the cable gets pulled through the hole, then since it won't come back out of the hole, pushes the brake shoe against the drum and, thus, drag. I was thinking of trying to find a C clip to hold the cable out but it's iffy at best.
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