I'm chasing a SES light on my mothers expedition. It had bank 1/2 lean and the 4 o2 sensor codes. So I put a fuel pressure gauge on it. At idle it fluctuated between 31-35 (rose and fell with a rough idle) as engine rise/falls. Rev it up to 15-1700 an pressure falls to 29-30, unplug the regulator and it pegs at 40 no matter idle-2000 rpm... does those numbers sound right?
View 11 Replies1997 expedition 4.6 .... Figured its the same motor. I bought it for cheap with a bad miss fire not sure what cylinders just did a tune up. I forget but I think they were motorcraft spark plugs I put in. But after that it ran grate so I thought. It would be intermiten but would all of a sudden while accelerating get a boost of power. That would last untell its next shift point and would always happen around 2-2500 rpm. Kinda like VTEC in a honda. Or it gained 2 cylinders. And would also start stumbling while sitting at a stop light for two long with it in gear and break on only after its warm. Never happens when cold. I hooked up tourqe and saw when it does it its misfiring on 5-6-7-8 randomly. Its missing on cylinder 4 all the time now which I believe is a plug, wire, or water-antifreez in plug hole.
View 2 RepliesMy 2000 F-150 odometer light goes on and off intermittent. How to fix this?
View 12 RepliesThe Service Engine Soon light has come on on my 2000 F-150 with a 4.6L when I was driving home in the rain. It has about 120,000 miles on it now. What are some of the main reasons why this comes on? Oxygen Sensors?
View 14 RepliesWhy the O/D off light on the dash is flashing??? Whats it mean? Its a 2000 ford explorer...4.0 V-6
View 9 RepliesI have a 2000 - F150xlt - 4.2L - V6:
Today while leaving work for lunch I started the engine and suddenly the ABS light came on and the engine cut out before I put it in gear. Then as I was driving each time it cut out the ABS light came on. So I stopped at the convenience store across the street from work to get some gas thinking it was low although it had a 1/4 tank. But after filling up it would not start. Then relay #2 began clicking in the fuse panel and would not stop whether the key was on or off. Several minutes of this went on and then I pressed the brake peddle in once more and everything on the dash lighted up, the dials fluttered around, the clock came back on, etc...
So I tried starting the engine again and suddenly everything started working and the engine started up. I drove it home and it ran fine with no issues, no cutting out or anything. After lunch I tried it again to head back to work and the truck would not start again. But this time there was no clicking from relay #2. Everything was dead until I pumped the brake peddle several times with the key off and then turned key in the ignition and then it started right up and drove like normal. Why it's doing this and what to check to fix it?
To start I was driving to work tonight and noticed the o/d "off" light flashing. it shifted hard one time then felt normal the rest of the way to work. At red lights the o/d light world turn off and about 3 minutes later it would flash again. When I got to work, I checked my code reader which gave me the p0705. I have searched around the net for about an hour and one thing i am seeing is that the fluid is "hot" or that there isn't enough. i have checked it and it looks slightly low like right above the add indication.
The only sound I here from under the truck is a rattle when in drive and at idle, but once I give it some gas it goes away. On they way home that night the o/d light was still flashing but it drove fine just at higher rpm, it down shifted hard one time but there were no other issues. I checked the fuses and they are all good.
2000 F-150 Triton V-8, Super Cab, 2WD, ~170,000 miles, 4-wheel ABS (one speed sensor on each front wheel and one on the rear differential). The ABS light comes on a few minutes after driving. It seems to take a little bit longer for the light to come on when the weather is colder.
I used a Cen-Tech 60794 OBD II/CAN with ABS scan tool with key on, engine off, and the below sequence. No codes were detected. I then left the scanner connected but powered off and drove around until the ABS light came on. Pulled into a parking lot with engine running, powered up the scan tool and went through the following menu choices:
Diagnostics
ABS
Area - USA vehicles
Model - Ford
Although the tool's instruction manual has several more items that may or may not be required (VIN digits, model year, etc), the next thing I saw is a message indicating the scanner is linking with the vehicle computer. During that time the ABS light went out. Next on the scan tool display my choice was to read codes or erase codes. I selected "Read codes" and the display said there are no codes in the module.
I have a 2000 f150 with 200k miles. I have no spark and no gas at the fuel rail Schrader valve. I have replaced the shaft pos sensor, no start. I have checked the fuses and the relays. I have crawled under truck and listen for the fuel pump to turn on while someone turned the key to on and heard nothing. I have 2 keys and while turning the key to on and start, the THEFT lite flashes. I have checked the impact sensor on the passing sick panel, it hasn't been tripped.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 f150 with 198,000 miles. The lite on the dash came on, "service engine soon" , I had the codes read and they said the coils are going bad.
View 2 RepliesI own a 2000 f-150 7700 series with a 4in body lift. recently Ive had a problem starting (I believe it is from the shifter not recognizing im in park) but now my theft light flashes at me and there is a weird sound that sounds like a relay from under my steering column when i roll my windows down, move shifter around or turn on 4x4. also my radio stays one every once in a while after the key is turned all the way back to off, and windows wont roll down after i hear the relay sound. Ive read to tighten shifter linkage and will do that tomorrow to see if that fixes it.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2000 f150 4x2 5.4 168k... Check engine came on,started shaking, weather was really cold. RPM would be a little high then low then back up. Especially when I turned on heater. Felt like truck would die but never does nor does it have issue starting.
So far, I have replaced two oxygen sensors inside engine,all coils, spark plugs, fuel filter, had injectors cleaned, intake cleaned. Truck runs better but, light came on a day later again. I can feel the tiniest of shaking going on and, cold mornings still make RPMS a little unstable. I was driving truck on highway at about 60 mph when a slight tug was felt and Truck check engine came on. I feel truck heavy, once it warms up completely, a little lighter.
Codes came up at auto zone as P1151
But I'm running out of options and frankly, money to fix this truck.
Checked the MAF and looked okay.
I'm with minimal skills.
I started out with my 2000 F150 with a 5.4 V8 running rough at idle. It would idle way down slow and then rev up a little over and over. On a couple of occasions it would even die when in drive or reverse. I did finally get a Check Engine light so i put it on my diagnostic program to see what was up. Here is what I got:
P1151 Lack of HO2S21 Indicates Lean
P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
p0174 System Too Lean Bank 2
After doing some reading up I checked all my vacuum hoses and cleaned my mass air flow sensor. I then got the same codes again after a few minutes of running. So I went to the next thing that was recommended, the upstream bank 2 O2 sensor. After changing it the truck ran fine for a couple of days, no issues. Then all of the sudden it idled a little funny again and I got a Check Engine Light again. This time:
P0171 Bank 1 Lean
P0174 Bank 2 Lean
P0300 Random/Multiple Misfire
I reset the light to see if I would get the same again later. Before the light came on again I filled my truck up with gas and it seemed to be running pretty good again. Then a day or so later it set the light again. This time:
P0171 Bank 1 Lean
P0174 Bank 2 Lean
P0136 O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0156 O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 2
P1131 Lack of Switches HO2S11 Lean
P1151 Lack of Switches HO2S21 Lean
I went ahead and drove for a few days as it had gotten really cold here and I didn't feel like messing around in my shop since it isn't heated. A couple days ago I needed gas so i filled up again. Suddenly the problem was gone again. Truck ran fine idled fine no missing or odd idling at all. That lasted a day or two before it started acting a little weird again. At that point i was down about 1/8 of a tank from full. I have read that there can be issues with the fuel pump.. I am kind of wondering if that may be it now. But I haven't had to deal with this sort of issue before so I am unsure what to check next. The truck always runs fine off idle, it only seems to have the issue when it is idling. I had reset the codes the last time and i have the light on again now. I haven't checked it yet but I am sure it is going be some combination of what i have had in the past.
I have read that the IAC valve can be an issue as well. I had a problem with mine sticking a couple years ago and when it would do it you could just tap it with a wrench and it would idle up. But it never died like it does now and it would also idle a lot slower than it does. Back then I cleaned the valve and had no more issues with it. The truck has always had times when it would act weird at idle usually after slowing down after being at highway speed. The current issue happens at all temps cold or hot.
I have a 2000 f150, the overdrive light flashes on the swifter, the motor has no power and sputters unless I put it in second gear. It won't shift gears in drive.
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 00 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 auto...it wouldn't start but not because something was wrong. it kept making a clicking sound and the theft light was one blinking...took my bronco to work and when I came home it started right up...I was thinking one of the keys didn't have the chip in it but it started with both keys....it doesn't have a key fob or keyless entry. I tried locking my drivers door with the key and unlock it...
View 6 RepliesVehicle 97 Expy, 5.4 XLT 2x4, air leveling and tow pkg.
Situation: installed TransGo SK E40D spring kit to cure 1st to 2nd hard shift. It did the trick and shifts great up to a point.
Issue: Now after replacing the springs, any and I mean any added load (mild incline, lane change) while in OD it will downshift, won't shift up unless going down hill and I'm sucking gas. 1st-3rd is great, but it will not stay in OD to save its life.
I believe the cure is to reinstall the old OD springs, but I don't know which set that is in the accumulator body? I also could be wrong and it may be something else.
Update: found the instructions, need to know if the 4th Accumulator piston is OD?
On my 2000 E.B. I have NO A/C at all. All vents on the dash, regardless of vent, floor, defrost, ETC all blow hot air, even with the A/C on Max A/C. Also, all the rear vents for the rear HVC blow WARM air as well. I have no A/C in the back either. I don't hear any flopping around under the dash going down the road and I have checked the A/C compressor with the unit on Max A/C and the clutch appears to be engaged and the compressor appears to be operating normally.
I have NOT YET checked the A/C lines or dryer to see if they get cold, I will check that tonight, but I expect them to be getting cold because the Compressor does not cycle on and off, it stays running pretty much all the time. It clicks off once and again, but not very often at all (such as the case would be if the system was low on freon).
So, if the A/C lines are getting cold (if they are not, I will know my problem is compressor related, likely anyway), what this problem could be? From what I've read, if the Front blows hot, yet the rear blows cold, it's a blend door actuator or broken blend door, but that is not my problem. I have no A/C at all, everything blows hot.
I started feeling a slightly rough idle three days ago and yesterday the check engine light illuminated. When we read the OBD, it indicated a Cyl #1 misfire. Question is this. Can I replace a single coil pack (1/cyl), or do I ahve to replace all 8 as a set and why? 2000 Ford Expedition 5.4 L cyl misfire.....
View 4 RepliesWhen i turn my heater on, the ac come on instead. It does not matter what position any of the dials are on as soon as I turn the blower on the ac comes on. I do not see anything obviously wrong with the controls. All turn as they should nothing is striped. I have the 3 dial control setup no auto heater controls at all. and nothing is digital.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 F150 with 4.6l triton 125k miles. i have a bad miss ONLY between 1500 and 2000 rpm. This will happen in any gear and in neutral, but only between those rpm's. seems to happen more constant in warm weather. This miss is so bad it feels like the transmission is going to fall out. but since it does it in neutral i doubt tranny problems. things I've replaced: fuel filter, tranny fluid and filter, crankshaft pos. camshaft pos, TPI, MAF, spark plugs, Ignition coils ( all 8) cleaned throttle body ( found 1 EGR port clogged completely )..
I had a couple codes but nothing constant. Been working on this for about 1 year. Codes p0320 (ignition speed input error) p0262 (injector circuit high cylinder #1). my only question here is...... What would only make this dang engine miss between 1500 and 2000 rpm. motor runs perfect thru all other ranges. idle... high speed.. and even throttling through this bad range is ok.. but when stabilizing between 1500 and 2000 starts jerking and missing like no fuel and no fire. i have put in superchip program couple years ago and it ran fine for about 1 year, then this trouble started... I have put back to stock program but still trouble.
My power locks stopped working completely (remote or switch, lock or unlock.) I didn't have any problems with them until 2 days ago, after work it wouldn't unlock.
The fuse is good (#3 under hood fuse box), I can't find the relays, but since there are 3 of them I don't think they are the problem. I have power at the fuse and 2 wires going to the PDL switch, I also have ground to 2 wires going to the PDL switch. It's probably as simple as a broken wire or corroded connector, but I'd rather not pull the whole dash if I don't have to, but I need to fix it so I can open the rear hatch which is locked and its lock cylinder is gummed up so I can't use the key.