Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2000 - Code P1151 Lean On Driver Side - Truck Bog Down At About 50 - 60 Mph
May 7, 2013
I have a 2000 f150 with a 5.4 past few months it has been throwing a p1151 code meaning it is coming up lean on the driver side. I just changed the plugs and it didn't work, neither did changing the fuel and air filters. cant find any vacuum or exhaust leaks. Replaced a bad injector along with the spark plugs and its still coming up lean.
The truck also seems to bog down at about 50-60 mph if i let off the gas and coast it will drop about 300 rpms. It has me confused and annoyed, i have true duals with glass packs could that be causing it?
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I just bought a 2000 expedition 4.6 EB.. Just like an f150 same principles apply. Here's the issue, it has 284k miles. I realize its probably just tired and worn out but it just doesn't have any torque it seems. If you punch it above 60 it barely creeps up the speedo, my 00 f150 4wd with the same engine about same mileage was way stronger. My only code currently is P1151 dealing with the o2. Plugs are new coils and most all else is probably old. Just wondering if something is wrong and not throwing code or if its just a tired engine in a heavy vehicle?
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I have a 2000 with a 5.4 and 166K miles. It had multiple exhaust manifold studs broken on both sides. Now that thay is fixed, I am getting the p1131 and p1151 codes. The EGR tube was also replaced at the time of the manifold fix. I checked over all the tubes and electrical connectors to rule out something simple but did not find anything out of place. The intake manifold was replaced with a new Napa one less than 5K miles ago as well.
Could the leaky exhaust manifolds over time set the fuel trim level high and now that they are fixed, the ECM is thinking it is running too rich? Can the ECM be reset to zero? There is also a ticking/rattling noise when you accelerate that seems to be coming from the fuel injectors. I listened with the stethescope and they are the only things that sound like the noise I hear. Could these all be related?
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Driving home yesterday I noticed a grinding sound from the driver side rear of the truck. Had a look at the drum brake today and found that the cable to the adjusting lever had snapped and pieces had jammed making the grinding noise. I need to replace the cable and probably have that drum surfaced, but the pads look good.
On the passenger side the hardware is all intact but the shoes look as if they have "spider" cracks everywhere, still lots of shoe left though. What might be causing the cracks on the shoes, and do these need to be replaced? How to do rear drum brakes? (1997 4x4)
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I have a 2000 f150 with 5.4 Triton with 165k miles. I did invest in a code reader. It started missing and code P0302 came up along with P0171. Put new coil on #2 and truck ran fine for a few days. Then it started to run rough again. Shaking, Idle rough, no power and CEL came on again. This time code P0171. I changed out fuel filter to no avail. My next step was to start looking for vacuum leaks. As I'm searching, All I am finding is trucks with this problem also get P0174 code. My question is since I am only getting lean on one bank does that pretty much eliminate things like MAF or the famous elbow vacuum leak and make something that only affects one bank like an O2 sensor on CAT more likely?
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Well I got the ubiquitous "Bank 1 Too Lean" code this morning. Yesterday I changed out the PVC Valve, Elbow and Hose assy.
I changed out the hose from the intake to the canister purge valve on the firewall next to the master brake cylinder, that one was like dust.
Today I'm changing out the rear O2 sensors, but I may change out the fronts when they get them in (very rural area hear).
I'll keep looking for vacuum leaks and change out the MAF sensor. I hate to think it may be the intake....
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I have a 98 ford ranger with a 3.0 v6 it has 228,000miles standard tranny but I keep the truck running great. I did the plugs and wires about two weeks ago and it was running fine, actually great. This morning I got into the truck to start it this morning and it barely started. It fired up but barely stayed idling. I would get into the petal and it wouldn't raise rpms. I had to get to school so I headed out. I couldn't get any speed in gear the truck wouldn't gain speed. It would sputter and pop and then all of a sudden it would go ok but then start popping again. I took it to a buddy shop and his scanner showed p1131 and p1151 both codes. I don't know what to do?
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Ok I got this truck from my mother-in-law for free with a blown head gasket cylinder 6 driver side. I did the replacement had the heads machined put it all back together by the book. Now I can't get it to fire on all 6 cylinders only 5 I think. Thought maybe bad gas (it sat since late November) put 5 gallons (over double the gas) fresh gas and half a bottle of b-12 chem tool. Dubble checked all plugs wires connections (coils plugs wires all new). I drove for about 10 miles oil pressure and temperature stayed perfect but no change in running truck shakes a lot and no real power. Don't sputter or backfire no engine codes other than imcr bank 2 open. Engine is 4.2l v-6 170k miles.
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I have a 2000 f150 4.6 that would not run on bank2 ( the drivers side), even though the injectors and coils are all firing.While I was troubleshooting the problem I notice if you unplug the camshaft sensor and restart the truck it would then run on bank2, but the idle is rough.Can the PCM be the problem here. The only dtc codes are p1000, there are no misfire code at all, and it dose not show a misfire on the scantool data so I am lost.
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My truck was running fine the past few days minus a cylinder misfire and a lean code the misfire was due to a coil pack being out no big deal on that part but yesterday on 7/30/13 my temp gauge turned off my truck wouldn't go below 1k rpms and then the over heating light came on. i drove the one mile home and turned it off an hour later i went back out to my truck to get to work and it refused to start.
I decided to just hold my foot down on the gas and crank it and it eventually started drove it to work with the same symptoms. now today its doing the same thing except now the truck is broke down in the parking lot at my job the engine is flooding cause i can smell it last night i changed the thermostat. I can get so that i can get my truck up in running its a 2002 f150 5.4L 4x4....
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I just bought a 99 f150 and the check engine light came on with code p0171,system too lean bank 1. It runs and drives fine but has a strong smell of gas when I shut it off.
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I was involved in a light accident over the weekend. I was hit in the rear by a Prius which didn't do body damage except for the 7 blade harness for my trailer towing. But, now the truck has a random misfire code. You can feel the truck jerk when you go up any grade. We changed the fuel filter and dumped in some cleaner already. One guy says its fuel and one thinks its coils. It is a 2003 F150 extended cab 5.4 with a nearly new motor. The truck has about 175xxx on it and I have had it for about 40xxx. I have not changed coils. We did check the inertia switch on the passenger side and it was not tripped.
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Truck had a rich on bank 2 code about a month ago, I cleared it and the service engine light stayed off for quite some time.
Last friday on the way home from work the truck started shaking badly right from idle, and at one point on the freeway the service engine started flashing. I couldn't pull over as I was on a bridge but once I dropped my speed the light stayed on but the flashing stopped.
I went to plug the truck in today and first shot it didn't communicate with the code reader at all, I talked to someone who told me that the cigerette lighter fuse is also the OBD port fuse, I pulled a fuse from somewhere else and plugged the reader in again. This time it started communicating with the truck but didn't display any codes while all the while the truck is miss firing and the service engine light is lit up on the dash.
One other weird thing: The fuse had an LED indicator to show that it is blown, when I push the cig lighter in the led gets a hell of a lot brighter, if there is always power drawn through the circuit shouldn't the LED be constantly bright all the time? I'm wondering if there is a short somewhere. Where to look next??
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I have a 2000 Ranger, with a 4.0 V6, 4X4, with 175,000 miles and it still runs great except the check engine light is on and it is saying that both banks are lean. I put in new plugs, all 3 O2 sensors, cleaned the MAF and checked for vacuum leaks, all to no avail...
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I am not liking this seat. Not sure if something wrong with control lately or I'm just noticing from sitting there more but I want it to lean more forward. I have messed with controls to get it to as forward as it will lean but still feel like it's only touching the very bottom of my back. Is there a spec on seat angle so I could check if it's proper? I'd like to avoid getting a grandma pillow..
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I have a 1999 F-150 with the 4.2L engine. I recently did a motor swap as the original motor was bad. I bought this truck as a project truck and have enjoyed working on it.
When I did the engine swap back in May of this year, it took a while to work out all the little bugs and quirps. However, after a while of running the truck it threw a few codes. I replaced a lot of the emission components and no more codes for several months until last month the truck started throwing the infamous P0174 "too lean bank two"... I have replaced the pcv valve and all the hoses to include the little rubber boot under the front of the intake, all 4 O2 sensors, MAF sensor, EGR, DPFE, IAC valve, new wires and plugs to include coil pack, fuel pressure regulator, and all the vacuum lines that are under the hood.
The truck runs fine, has power, but about every couple weeks or so it throws this P0174 code. I know there are alot of threads on here about this problem and I have read many of them. It only throws the P0174 and not the P0171. I am wondering if there could be a problem specific to "bank 2" that I am over looking.
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I have a 2001 F150 XLT Supercab,4.2lt, automatic, 2WD.
I was able to start it about a month or so ago but it was really hard to start. I had to use starting fluid to get it started, and it was still tough to get it to start, but once started and warmed up it ran fine.
Now I tried to start it again and it kicks over and wont start. I tried the same with the starting fluid and it almost starts and dies. I think I used a little too much starting fluid because after a while of trying and spraying starting fluid, I got a hard backfire that sounded like a shotgun that was strong enough to pop off the MAF Sensor and throw it about 10 feet. I nearly crapped my pants! It looks clean and undamaged but I hope I didn't damage the MAF Sensor when if hit the ground.
The truck sounds like its starving for fuel, so I'm not sure if the fuel pump relay is going or has gone bad, or if its the fuel pump. How to check these items without making it a huge project to diagnose?
Once I can get it to start easily, I have a couple of questions about the trouble code that keeps coming back P0174. That was the original problem with it before the starting problem.The diagnostic says that it is lean in bank 2 but a mechanic friend of mine said something about a vacuum leak.
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I have a 1997 Ford F-150 with the 4.6L auto trans 189,000 miles
Ok.. there was no problems until the other day when I unplugged the positive side of the battery to replace it's clamp. I Put the new one on and drove to the store but when I came to a stop, the rpm's dropped to 0 and the truck died. I restarted it and every time I would come to a stop it would die unless I give it a little gas also if I start the truck and leave it in park it idles fine until I give it some gas then let off.. the idle drops and dies! If I give it a little steady gas the idle will return to normal.
The check engine light works fine but never once lit up because of this problem! I used a code scanner and if the truck was off and the key forward, it would have no codes. With it running it had the code P0443. I found and replaced a blown fuse and still have the same problem but it reads no codes at anytime. I checked all the vacuum hoses and there seems to be no leaks and the mass airflow sensor looks clean. I have allot of miles but it has been taken care of well and has had a ton of parts replaced over the last few years.
I am wondering why this happened out of the blue and If there is something I am missing that I should be looking at. I don't want to replace the purge control valve if thats not the problem.
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I own a 2000 f150, 7700 with 199,000 miles, 5.4 eng. In drive with foot on brake, it idles at 600 rps, fairly smooth. When I accelerate from a stop the engine shudders. Ten months ago I had the plugs replaced, last week I bought 8 new coils and I installed them, no change. I removed the down stream o2 sensor from the exhaust, it was as clean as blued gun metal. Can these 2 sensors be cleaned or tested? The service engine lite is not on. List of things to check?
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My 2000 f150 with a 4.6 and just about 200,000 miles stumbled for a minute then died, no engine light came on. It wanted to restart and almost did a couple time's but no go. which leads me to believe it has spark. after about a 30min cool down it started and ran fine like nothing ever happened. Got me home. then the next day same thing died and started after it cooled. Has done this a few time's.
I had put a cheap O'riely fuel pump in it a couple years ago. but i hear if you run your gas tank low on gas a lot (which I do) the pump can get hot and you can toast it. Does the fuel pump is the issue or could i have another problem. And BTW in the past year I have cleaned the EGR port's on the throttle body, put a new egr valve, and fuel filter. And i checked the fuel pressure to had 40...
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2000 ford f150 4.6 auto. Will spin over but won't start. checked coil for fire, no fire. Check fuel rail for fuel, no fuel. No theft light flashing and no check engine light on. Has new battery and plenty of fuel in tank. Started fine yesterday but not today.
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