Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2000 - Cigarette Burns In Seat Upholstery?
Sep 23, 2014
Need to know if there is a kit available to fix cigarette burns in seat upholstery? I bought a 99 f150 to use for parts on my 2000 f150 and I want to use the drivers side seat. The previous owner smoked and there are a few little burns in the seat. Other than getting the smoke stink out, and the little holes. the seat is in great condition. The lumbar support is broke in my 2000s seat, and the seat cover is torn. that's the reason I want the "smokey" seat.
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2000 F250 7.3 diesel... It began doing this last summer. It will blow cold and freeze you out then it gets hot and burns you up. If you step on the gas pedal for a bit, it will go cold again. We have changed high & low pressure switches and added more freon. What else do we need to look into?
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1997 Rav4 with 185k miles burns some oil. I replaced the PCV valve thinking that may be the issue. That seemed to stop the visible smoke at a cold startup but alas, the problem still persists. We bought the car for a song at 180k so I don't feel I'm out much. The previous owner took incredible care of the car so it is solid in most areas.
I did learn the previous owner followed a dealer recommend oil change interval and changed the filter with every other oil change so this may explain some things.
My real question, if the engine does need a refresh, what is the best option? I've not at all afraid of tackling a major overhaul myself and, in the past, have had pretty good luck with aftermarket rebuilt short blocks. But that was years ago. The dealer cost for a crate motor is outrageous and not justified for a '97 anyway. So at this point, I'm just looking for some advice from others who may have been down this road. Again, the rest of the car is solid and we don't have much money in it at this point so would like to keep it as our 'second' car for awhile.
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When I took my new used car to the mechanic, complaining how there must be an oil leak cause well by now 9 bottles of oil in 7 weeks time have been put in, the mechanic told me the engine is burning the oil too fast. He said something about the piston, but I got all confused. He also said that the only way to fix this is to replace the engine, but he recommended not to cause it would cost more than the car is worth. This is a 2000 Toyota Corolla. Why this is happening and what i should do about it.
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Driver side seatbelt wont retract back up i have to push it in and sometimes it will suck it up but most of the time it wont is there a way to take it apart and clean it maybe?
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1999 F-150. Driver's seat won't click firmly into place, it just moves freely backward and forward.
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I have a 2000 Regular Cab Work Truck with non power split bench seat. The passenger side back will not hook in the up position.
Before diving into it. Is the mechanism broken or is it something I can fix if I tear it apart? There is nothing stuck under or behind that I can tell.
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I don't know what to try next. I have a short somewhere, just don't know how to track it down. I checked the fuse for the drivers seat and it was blown. I stuck a new one in and the thing blew as soon as I stuck it in. I disconnected the seat motors, plugged in a fuse and it blew again as soon as I stuck it in. How to track this down?
I don't see any worn or shorted wires under the seat. I checked under the passenger side kick panel per another post I found, but that looks fine. I don't know where to look or what to test.
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My rear center seat belt receiver(the female side) is broken. I haven't had any luck finding one online and my local dealership only wants to sell the entire assembly. I only need the female....are these available for purchase anywhere?
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I have a 2000 F150 with 4.6l triton 125k miles. i have a bad miss ONLY between 1500 and 2000 rpm. This will happen in any gear and in neutral, but only between those rpm's. seems to happen more constant in warm weather. This miss is so bad it feels like the transmission is going to fall out. but since it does it in neutral i doubt tranny problems. things I've replaced: fuel filter, tranny fluid and filter, crankshaft pos. camshaft pos, TPI, MAF, spark plugs, Ignition coils ( all 8) cleaned throttle body ( found 1 EGR port clogged completely )..
I had a couple codes but nothing constant. Been working on this for about 1 year. Codes p0320 (ignition speed input error) p0262 (injector circuit high cylinder #1). my only question here is...... What would only make this dang engine miss between 1500 and 2000 rpm. motor runs perfect thru all other ranges. idle... high speed.. and even throttling through this bad range is ok.. but when stabilizing between 1500 and 2000 starts jerking and missing like no fuel and no fire. i have put in superchip program couple years ago and it ran fine for about 1 year, then this trouble started... I have put back to stock program but still trouble.
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My sons 97 has a lot of electric probs, one of which is the cig lighter quit working recently. I checked the fuses (under hood and on dash), and wiring to both plug-ins.
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i have a 2003 oldmobile alero and the main cigarette lighter does not work. yesterday i got fuses and it kept blowing them so i figured it was a short and i need a new lighter. the second power outlet on the passenger side works fine and doesnt blow the fuse. how much work do you figure it would be to get a new cigarette outlet and replace it? i mean could i do it myself?
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I have a 2000 F-150 XL with a 4.2 V-6, a 5 speed manual transmission and manual shift on the fly transfer case. The 4WD went out over a year ago. When it went out, I was driving at 65 MPH and heard what sounded like rapid relay chatter for several seconds (10 to 15 seconds) and it stopped. The sound seemed like it was coming from the dashboard area where the GEM is located, but may have been from the solenoids mounted on the engine compartment firewall. Actually could have been from both. When the 4WD tried to engage while driving at 65 MPH, the dash lights were flashing on and off and it sounded like the front differential was trying to engage. Of course I slowed down while this occurred to avoid damaging the truck should it succeeded to engage the front differential.
I have a Haynes manual but the wiring diagrams are some what ambiguous as my truck is not as common as those having ESOF. Even researching online I am not certain if the info pertains to my truck. The only diagram I found to be accurate is the vacuum control diagram. I believe I have either a wiring problem or the GEM is bad. When troubleshooting I like to isolate at the middle points to quickly eliminate one side or another when looking at a diagram/schematic.
Ford had a well-noted problem with the two solenoids that control the 4WD actuator and are mounted on the engine compartment firewall. So I started here, as this is a good halfway point and high failure area.Well, the solenoid power connectors had 12 volts on both connector pins (if I remember correctly as it was a year ago when I did some troubleshooting)regardless of transfer case shift position (2wd, 4wd high or low). I was able to manipulate the solenoids and verified they were operating, as I could feel and here the solenoids click when grounding the control side of the pin on each solenoid. I did check fuse 23 prior to checking the solenoids. Since 12 volts was present at the solenoids, it indicated power was getting to them.
So another common problem is the transfer case 4WDsensor. I removed, cleaned, and verified operation of the sensor. Reinstalled and check sensor state with transfer case in all 3 positions and it was working correctly. Also I have no 4WD indication on the dashboard when 4WD high or low is selected. Fuse 6 is good.
My main issue is not having confidence with the wiring diagrams I have found online. I am not sure if my truck has a MSOF relayor the transfer case 4WD sensor signal goes directly to the GEM.
I need to check:
1. Wiring from transfer case 4WD sensor to either GEM or MSOF relay, if there is a relay, will check it along with wiring to GEM,but don't believe it exists for my truck. (I need the wiring diagram to do this)
2. If the transfer case 4WD sensor output is getting to the GEM module, I would think the GEM module is bad. If possible, I would like to check the GEM module outputs to the solenoids, but since the GEM is buried behind the fuse panel, it probably is not feasible.
I plan to call the Ford service department in my area to determine what GEM I have and will buy a GEM online. Replacing the GEM does not look fun, so I have avoided it but wanted to be sure it was the problem.
So I want to know if I am tracking correctly and if there is anything else I should check, and would like the correct wiring diagram as indicated in item 1.
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My hubby is working on a 2000 F150. The heater does not get hot. He has checked the blend door and it is functioning correctly. Is there a valve on the back of the engine that shuts the water off going to the heater core?
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I am having a hell of a time getting this off. How to do it? Its a 02 f150 xlt with a 4.2 v6...
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My 2000 f150's 4x4 won't work, it has esotf, I have replaced everything I can think of, when I turn it to 4hi and 4 low i get nothing, no clicks no dash lights. I have replaced the gem, the switch, the relays, checked the fuses, i bench tested the motor it works, if i put 12v to the shift motor while on the t/c it engages to 4x4 (though I haven't driven it like that because I am not sure if its in 4hi 4 lo or in between the two) so that being said...
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My scenario: 2000 F150 4x4 Supercab 5.4L 161k miles. Codes on my scan are P0113 intake air temp sensor 1 circuit high. P0102 mass air flow volume low. P0305 cyl 5 misfire. P0307 cyl 7 misfire. The 1st code I'm unfamiliar with sensor location? 2Nd code i replaced air filter, removed MAF sensor for cleaning and it appears to have only 1 heating wire or filament. Shouldn't there be 2? Plugs were changed approx 15k ago however COP's were not. Should that be my first remedy for 305&307, new plugs and coils? Also what is next sensor in line between MAF and throttle body? Is that the sensor from code P0113?
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Purchased new 2000 F150 5.4 automatic 2wd now the power steering has gone out. I read all the things about the intermediate shaft seizing up so sprayed and prayed until I finally broke down and ordered a new one. Well I just pulled off the original with over 250,000 miles it seems like new. The tiny u-joints are very free moving (not sloppy at all) and the sliding shaft works fine.
I'm starting to worry that the power steering pump is shot although it was not squealing or groaning. I do have some tie rod and ball joint squeaks, could that be it? I'm really frustrated thinking it was going to be a simple intermediate shaft replacement now I've got a brand new one and the same problem. The lower power steering hose was pretty grimy but I figured that was all of the PBlaster I'd been spraying on it.
I'm going to jack it up and try moving the wheels back and forth to see if it is binding anywhere. Was reading about a high pressure switch but where that even is or if the 2000 has it.
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Looking for a diagram for the ecm pinouts for a 2000 5.4 4x4 f150? Im mostly trying to find the TCC for the tranny.
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My 2000 F-150 odometer light goes on and off intermittent. How to fix this?
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A year ago, I was driving down the highway ,gas low,and it just died. Half hour later stasrts right up. No problem since then until 2 months ago. It's died 4 times in last 2 months regardless of how much gas in tank. Just stops out of blue when coming to stop signs. Half hour or so will start right back up with no problem.
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