Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2000 - Check Engine Light Came On / Truck Started Shaking
Feb 15, 2014
I have a 2000 f150 4x2 5.4 168k... Check engine came on,started shaking, weather was really cold. RPM would be a little high then low then back up. Especially when I turned on heater. Felt like truck would die but never does nor does it have issue starting.
So far, I have replaced two oxygen sensors inside engine,all coils, spark plugs, fuel filter, had injectors cleaned, intake cleaned. Truck runs better but, light came on a day later again. I can feel the tiniest of shaking going on and, cold mornings still make RPMS a little unstable. I was driving truck on highway at about 60 mph when a slight tug was felt and Truck check engine came on. I feel truck heavy, once it warms up completely, a little lighter.
Codes came up at auto zone as P1151
But I'm running out of options and frankly, money to fix this truck.
Checked the MAF and looked okay.
I'm with minimal skills.
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Ok on the way the my 1997 f150 4.6 L 180,000 check engine light started flashing and running rough and then the light went off, Also we took the Aftermarket Dynomax muffler off of it earlier today if that makes any difference, it still has the Cat Converter, New Plugs and Napa Wires.....
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I started out with my 2000 F150 with a 5.4 V8 running rough at idle. It would idle way down slow and then rev up a little over and over. On a couple of occasions it would even die when in drive or reverse. I did finally get a Check Engine light so i put it on my diagnostic program to see what was up. Here is what I got:
P1151 Lack of HO2S21 Indicates Lean
P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
p0174 System Too Lean Bank 2
After doing some reading up I checked all my vacuum hoses and cleaned my mass air flow sensor. I then got the same codes again after a few minutes of running. So I went to the next thing that was recommended, the upstream bank 2 O2 sensor. After changing it the truck ran fine for a couple of days, no issues. Then all of the sudden it idled a little funny again and I got a Check Engine Light again. This time:
P0171 Bank 1 Lean
P0174 Bank 2 Lean
P0300 Random/Multiple Misfire
I reset the light to see if I would get the same again later. Before the light came on again I filled my truck up with gas and it seemed to be running pretty good again. Then a day or so later it set the light again. This time:
P0171 Bank 1 Lean
P0174 Bank 2 Lean
P0136 O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0156 O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 2
P1131 Lack of Switches HO2S11 Lean
P1151 Lack of Switches HO2S21 Lean
I went ahead and drove for a few days as it had gotten really cold here and I didn't feel like messing around in my shop since it isn't heated. A couple days ago I needed gas so i filled up again. Suddenly the problem was gone again. Truck ran fine idled fine no missing or odd idling at all. That lasted a day or two before it started acting a little weird again. At that point i was down about 1/8 of a tank from full. I have read that there can be issues with the fuel pump.. I am kind of wondering if that may be it now. But I haven't had to deal with this sort of issue before so I am unsure what to check next. The truck always runs fine off idle, it only seems to have the issue when it is idling. I had reset the codes the last time and i have the light on again now. I haven't checked it yet but I am sure it is going be some combination of what i have had in the past.
I have read that the IAC valve can be an issue as well. I had a problem with mine sticking a couple years ago and when it would do it you could just tap it with a wrench and it would idle up. But it never died like it does now and it would also idle a lot slower than it does. Back then I cleaned the valve and had no more issues with it. The truck has always had times when it would act weird at idle usually after slowing down after being at highway speed. The current issue happens at all temps cold or hot.
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I have a 2000 f150 with 5.4 Triton with 165k miles. I did invest in a code reader. It started missing and code P0302 came up along with P0171. Put new coil on #2 and truck ran fine for a few days. Then it started to run rough again. Shaking, Idle rough, no power and CEL came on again. This time code P0171. I changed out fuel filter to no avail. My next step was to start looking for vacuum leaks. As I'm searching, All I am finding is trucks with this problem also get P0174 code. My question is since I am only getting lean on one bank does that pretty much eliminate things like MAF or the famous elbow vacuum leak and make something that only affects one bank like an O2 sensor on CAT more likely?
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About a week ago I was driving my Pontiac 2003 Grand Am V6 and it began to violently shake and the "check engine light" came on and started blinking. I then immediately took it to the mechanic It has been with the mechanic for 6 days and they were unable to locate the problem. They called me today and I was told that I have no compression in one of the cylinders (I have done business with them before and felt comfortable in that I wasn't being taken advantage of). Also, is there any problems in the future with getting a cylinder replaced i.e. other parts of the engine that might correlate?
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I bought a 01 F150 with the 5.4 motor in it not much over a year ago. The truck needed quite a few things but the price was right. I have been dreading fixing one issue I knew about when I bought the truck. I figured I would ask here before contemplating taking my 12 year old truck to ford.
I have done quite a bit of reading about the airbag codes and in some cases people suggested the passenger switch led can burn out causing the light to occur. Here's what I know,
The truck has not been in a accident. I bought it from the owners son who only knew where to put gas in the truck. The father took care of the truck and he assured me it was not accident related for what it's worth.
Upon start up there are no flashes of the airbag light. From the time the key is turned ign. on to the time I shut the truck off it is a solid light. Early this spring I soldered a new led in the passenger on/ off switch with no change. I wonder if the switch is bad but I did not see a proper way to test it.
A airbag light code reader would seem to possibility but I have not seen any auto-part stores that borrow that type and my obd2 scanner cannot pull those codes. Where to start with troubleshooting?
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Well it finally happened, a couple of weeks ago I was headed to an MX race and my check engine light came on and it started running rough. Long story short a piece of an exhaust valve broke off and went out through the head. Dealer has been great even though I was 300 miles from home and they did get me a rental(small POS SUV). Truck was supposed to be finished this week, but now they are saying the head gasket is on back order and they probably won't have one until the middle of April......... I can't be without my truck that long, but not much I can do. By the way truck is completely stock with just under 20K on it, and I have never had any issues with any of my Ford trucks or Ford diesels, even my old 6.0.
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I recently changed the heater core on my 99 F-150 which meant i had to remove the dash. I got everything back together turned the key to start it and nothing it wouldn't start it wont even turn over. All the electronics come on like normal it just wont start. I have chased every wire every connection into madness. It has an aftermarket remote start someone said that would have bypassed the PATS but i dont know about that the theft light just started blinking.
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I have a 2000 f150 with 200k miles. I have no spark and no gas at the fuel rail Schrader valve. I have replaced the shaft pos sensor, no start. I have checked the fuses and the relays. I have crawled under truck and listen for the fuel pump to turn on while someone turned the key to on and heard nothing. I have 2 keys and while turning the key to on and start, the THEFT lite flashes. I have checked the impact sensor on the passing sick panel, it hasn't been tripped.
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I have a 2001 f150 7700 edition. The truck has 118,000 miles and i've owned it for the past three years, the trucks great and really reliable. I drive the truck every day 50 miles to my college and about two weeks ago my truck started shaking . I had just got off the highway and made it to a stop sign. I then took off and when I hit about 30 miles an hour the truck started shaking but when I hit 40 it stopped.
I said whatever and ignored it. now it does it pretty much anytime I go past 30 miles in hour. My tranny shifts good. I checked the fluid and it was normal. smelt it and it didn't smell burnt or anything still pretty red. Some days its worse then others. Also, no engine lights, tranny lights, no obvious lose parts, tires are good. It only shakes when I give it gas. I let off the gas at 80mph and it doesn't shake at all. Which is why I'm confused.
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I've got a problem with a 2000 Impreza 2.5RS 5spd. It started with the check engine light coming on. A trip to Auto zone revealed that the O2 sensor was the problem. But on the way home, the light came on again and started flashing. All the while the car started acting like it had a misfire. It idles really rough and the exhaust smells like it's running really rich. I've replaced the plugs and wires, and all corners of the ignition coil check out properly as well. Can the O2 sensor cause a misfire in one or more of the cylinders? Or is something else that I should be interrogating as the cause?
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My check engine light started blinking on my 2000 grandam se last night and it was missing bad and now it wont start what is it.
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I have a 2001 f-150 the brakes are sticking and I get a bad shake which seems to come from the front and rear of the vehicle. It doesn't do it all the time but when it does it slowly gets worse. I have replaced 3 of the 4 calipers and will be replacing the forth, but not much is changing.
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I just bought a 00 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 auto...it wouldn't start but not because something was wrong. it kept making a clicking sound and the theft light was one blinking...took my bronco to work and when I came home it started right up...I was thinking one of the keys didn't have the chip in it but it started with both keys....it doesn't have a key fob or keyless entry. I tried locking my drivers door with the key and unlock it...
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while scraping ice off the windshield this morning with the car warming up, it started to choke, engine light came on. Used my OBD reader and found only one code, that being p0740. Cleared the code and all was fine after that, it drives the same way it always has and nothing feels different, revs are the same shifts gears the same. I know it had something to do with the torque converter clutch.
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I have an 1999 f150 4.2l only 82,000 original miles.i have had truck since new .i just replaced the spark plugs for the first time.i used autolite plat. I also changed fuel filter the truck started to run like crap now shaking and sorta like missing.i pulled the plugs again rechecked the gp reinstalled them installed new wires still runs like crap.went out bought new motorcraft plat. plugs gapped at .054 still runs like crap..so i checked the gap on original plus that have been i the truck since new the gap on them are .074-.075. should i try and gapp the new ones to this the truck ran like a dream with the original plugs at this gap????
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We just purchased a 2003 Ford Lightning with 114,000 miles on it. Had oil changed. Had to get floor master mufflers attached back on. Ever since then now when it gets up to 65-70 mph it starts a terrible rattling noise , almost sounds like a spark knock. Truck starts riding very rough. We have have only run premium fuel and even put in some gas treatment to see if this works, it hasn't, only getting worse. We are currently out of town and trying to make it home but don't want to cause any major damage to it. All the gauges are fine. Just the rattling and shaking...
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Need to identify this part? I believe this part is causing my check engine light to continually come on, due to worn out connectors (I.e. Vacuum leak)!
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I have a 1997 ford f 150 with a 4.2 ltr v6 the check engine light came on so i took it to autozone and had the code pulled. They told me that the o2 sensor bank2 sensor 1 which is before the converter had a slow response so i checked the wiring and bought the o2 sensor. They told me bank 2 is the passenger side but well i changed the1st sensor on the passenger side and reset the code and drove the truck about 130 miles . and the light came back on. After reading a few posts. I think they told me wrong is the drivers side bank 2 or is the passenger side bank 2 ...
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I drive a 2001 Ford F150 4.6L , Miles at 175,000+ (a little more but no more than 176k)
Situation as it happened : Driving home from work for lunch, about halfway home I notice that my Oil Light is on and the Gauge has dropped to below the "L." Engine started making noise, best I can compare it to is to the sound of a diesel engine when it's idle. Immediately pull over after noticing this, shut off engine for about 5 mins, check oil, oil is fine. Turn truck back on, light is off, gauge is normal, and noise isn't as loud as it was before. Drive rest of the way home no problem. After deciding on driving the truck back to work (I know i shouldn't have but I have no other means of transportation, and I work at Autozone so I wanted one of my managers there to check it out) I turn on engine, everything is fine, no oil light, gauge is in the middle of the "H" and "L", only thing wrong was the engine noise, except like earlier it wasn't too loud or shaking the truck. About halfway to work, I come to a stop sign, Oil gauge shoots down below the "L" and the oil light come on.
As soon as that happens engine starts making same loud noise as before (diesel truck idling.) I push the gas to get past the stop sign, and instantly truck loses power in pedal and just shuts off. Make it to side of road, hasn't turned on since. Never had any problems with the truck since I bought it 5 months ago, changed the oil 1 time about 2 months after I bought it. I'm just hoping my engine hasn't seized up on me.
Not sure if this matters, but about 4 days prior to this, truck was making a rattling noise, almost like shaking a can of paint , under the front drivers side, in the suspension. Was told those were probably due to my sway bar link bushings being busted.
After some research on here and other websites as well, I have come to find out that this is pretty common in most Fords? Most people recommend changing the oil pressure switch, and others say it could be the oil pump? Was planning on changing out Oil Pressure Switch, and changing the oil filter/oil , and fuel filter as well. Not sure what else I could do?
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I have a little more detail on when the truck starts and does not . I have gone out the past two days and put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position and all the lights come on except Service Engine Soon light and truck will not start. I bought a ceramic electric heater and placed it on the floor directing the heat under the dash. after ten to fifteen minutes I go out and put the key in the ignition turn the key to the on position and the service engine soon light is on and the truck starts right up. I let it warm up for about a half hour and then shut it off. I then try to start it right back up and the service engine soon light comes on momentarily then goes off and the truck does not start?
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