2000 supercab 4x4 166k miles. Starts right up in morning no probs. Drive to work shut it off and turn key it does NOTHING. Gauges light up, etc but wil not crank. Let it sit all day and it will fire right up. Battery, starter solenoid? Looking for place to start. Won't crank in neutral either.
View 2 RepliesThis problem is on my son's 2000 F-250 5.4. It's into October and my son tells me he has no heat coming out of his vents. I figure it has to be the control valve that should be in the heater hose lines. Could be jammed closed or a vacuum line has come off the pot that controls the open close cycle. We open the hood and nowhere can we see a coolant control flow valve. It is so tight and dark under all that mess of wires, intake, air conditioner lines and whatever.
Just where should we be looking for the valve. Also it could be the vacuum line is unplugged on the dash, behind the warm/cool selector. And even there is a possibility that some doofus has removed something. He bought the truck this summer. So to get us on the right path, where we start looking for the flow control valve?
We got our first taste of fall weather in Houston this weekend, and with it I've discovered a new problem with my truck. After the engine was up to temp, I noticed that the heater would blow cold air any time I sat at idle. If you rev up the rpm's to 1500-2000, you can feel the air start to get warm again. I'm guessing this means my heater core needs to be backflushed.
View 4 RepliesI bought this truck an it ran good then one day it started knocking really bad so i replaced the crank shaft an bearings. Put everything back together started the truck an it ran like crap an i just happened to check the oil an it is milky. All the water in y radiator is now in the motor oil an truck has no power...
View 2 RepliesI have a 97 3/4 ton Chevy truck with 136K miles on it. The problem I have is that the truck is slow to crank when it is warm but when the engine is cool like in the morning or when it has cooled after 2hrs or so the engine turns over fine. I put a new battery in it last summer. I was just wandering could it be my starter.
View 8 RepliesMy 2003 Pontiac Grand Am often doesn't start in warm weather. The engine will crank but not start, but if I then leave the key in the run position for exactly ten minutes, the security system seems to calm down and I can switch it off then start the car (a kind tow driver taught me that trick). This doesn't happen in the winter in Pittsburgh, but might happen one start out of six in the summer.
I had the ignition cylinder replaced once, and it took care of the problem for about a year. After it came back, I was told to do exactly the same thing again. At first I decided to punish the dealer by spending another summer loafing in parking lots, but this year I can't take it any more. Should I replace it again? Should a dealer warrant the longevity of the repair?
I have a 1999 Ford F-150 with 149,000 miles on it and when the engine gets warm it seems to flood its self out. I was told to change fuel filter, no change, I was told maybe the catalytic converters maybe plugged but then was told that wasn't the case either. Another mechanic mentioned some sort of ignition relay or computer issue? I do not have any lights on of any sort. I do want to mention before it started acting up the auto door locks would jump up and down erratically and my key phoebe will not work now.
View 8 RepliesI need to diagnose a heat problem. I have a 2001 F150 XL. 4.2L Manual controls. The a/c blows nice and cold, but when you put the heat on its not really hot, blows warm air. I changed the blend door actuator,it got a little warmer. Now that winter is around the corner need to figure it out and fix it. The thermostat, water pump, and coolant flushed before I bought it. Could it be the blend door itself, or is there another actuator I'm missing.
View 14 Replies1999 F-150 5.4L. I just removed the clutch fan and installed two electric fans about two weeks ago. The same evening, I took a short drive and noticed the idle was way higher than it normally is. Its idling about 800 to 900 RPM. Now, the weird part.....Startup is normal, as in the idle jumps up for the warmup, then drops to the normal 600 to 700 range. after a short drive, the idle is high and noticeable at a stop.
Sometimes, if I let the truck idle, after about 10 mins or so the idle will slowly start creeping up a little at a time till it hits about 900 or so and will level off. I have tried the IAC, I have tried disconnecting the battery and letting the PCM reboot, I have checked ALL my vacuum lines, I have checked my TPS sensor and voltages, checked my MAF sensor and voltages, fuel pressures, everything I could think of...
I hooked up my scanner (Auto X-Ray 6000) and checked all my running data, nothing really sticks out to me as outta whack. No codes set..
I have a 2002 F-150 4.2L that is hard to start when warm. Cold starts are no problem, except in the below 0 F stretch last winter. Also when it is a hot start it is not an issue. Only when it has sat for a few hours does it have an issue. The following is the list of things that have been done.
- New Plugs,
- New Plug Wires,
- New Coil Pack,
- New Fuel Filter,
- Clean Throttle Body,
- Clean Mass Air Sensor,
- Clean Idle Bypass,
- Replace EGR Vacuum Control Switch,
- Manifold Leak Repair (Ford Dealer),
- Throttle Body Stop Adjusted for more idle speed,
- Check fuel pressure (40 psi key on, drops to 35 psi static).
So she will crank all day but no start. Theft light is going nuts like I am trying to steal my own truck!! I've read it could be a PATS issue.
However after I unplugged my pos batt cable and hook it right back up she starts like nothing ever happened.
its only happening every once in awhile. but it does get old. I have been just leaving my pos cable off whenever I shut the truck off.
Took my dad's snailblazer (trailblazer) since the 4.2 i6 in it gets better mpg than the old worn 5.4 in the f150. Well I didn't leave much gas in the 30 gallon tank about 1/4 tank or 7 1/2 gallons. My dad took it to the gas station on Friday and filled it to 3/4 of a tank. Got back in the truck and attempted to turn it over and got nothing.
Battery cable was a bit loose from what he told me, so he tighten it up. Nothing. I know the fuel pump is still going cause when you turn the key forward you can hear it whine. Starter is only a few years old maybe 6 or so. Not sure if that went bad or something else.
Last time something similar happened the A/C compressor seized up and wouldn't allow the engine to turn over. Well we eliminated the compressor around '09 and bolted a pulley in its place. Off the top of my head I can't think of anything that would have seized up causing this.
Sure I've owned an SUV but never a truck. I was given a 2003 extra cab and was told the motor is blown. This was part of a deal. My friend had two trucks at his inlaws. 2001 F250 5.4 and the 03 with 4.6. He has no budget to buy a motor and the 250 was supposedly driven to its parking spot last year. He put gas in it and it did not run. I went over and we put a squirt in the throttle body and it started. Tried this till my squirt bottle was out always the same result. I said it would be easier to fix over at my house. Now both trucks are here. I pulled the tank and put a pump in 250/5.4 and the rear brake line was toast so I fixed that.
Went to crank it and got a little sputter so I put a squirt in the throttle body. Went to crank it and got a backfire. Now just clank, clank no crank? I pulled the plugs and still clank no crank. ????? I just was browsing this forum and saw posts about AC locking up holding back the starter or bad/weak starters. I'm pretty mechanical but at a loss at to why it went from starting to nothing, right when I though all the work was done. I did put a battery on the 4.6 it it sounded the same....clank. I wonder if the motor is really blown? First I have to fix the 250 for my friend. No way the motor got hurt by one backfire?
So glad I found this forum. I can't wait to fix my first truck. Red 2003 ex-cab 4x4,
Alright so I have an 03 5.4 with 144000 miles. once it warms up to temperature it has a miss and low end power is low and no fuel mileage gets 12 to 13 if I'm lucky. From idle to 3000 rpm its doggy get it over 3000 rpm it runs great. All new plugs and coil packs. What it could be. When the motor is cold it runs great has most its power.
View 3 RepliesI started my truck this morning and drove it quarter of a mile down the road to get some food letting it idle while in the drive through. While pulling away from the drive through window it started idling ruff . I drove it to the hotel and it ran perfectly normal until at a stop light and it started skipping again. If I put it on high idle it really starts skipping. Above 1500rpm it stops. What do you think?
View 4 RepliesI have a '99 F-150 with 4.6L V-8. The truck has run perfectly since I bought it a year ago. My grandson took it a short distance to a neighborhood store, and when he got back he parked on the neighbor's lawn.
IMMEDIATELY after turning it off, I told him to move it, and it would not start. Wouldn't even turn over. I did a little research, and replaced the most likely culprit, the starter....no change in condition. When keyed to start, the dash lights up, but that's it! I did get under the truck and there IS voltage getting to the large power lead.
The starter has it's own solenoid, however there is another one mounted to the firewall. Does this have anything to do with the starter?
My 1999 F-150 is having an issue after a tune up; changed coil pack, plugs and wires. It started and ran fine before, but after the tune up it doesn't even crank, just clicks and clunks. I hear a whine from the alternator, but last I checked (a couple days ago), it tested fine so I dunno if it went bad.
I thought it was PATS, but the theft light turns off when the key is in the on position and the fuel pump primes. I dunno if it's the battery, but it tests out OK with my voltage tester (12v+) But it may not have the amps required.
If the coil pack isn't grounded right, like if the platform it's on is corroded, would that cause this issue?
If I turn on my ignition switch and my gauges go to where they're supposed to be, the truck will crank. If I turn switch and , lets say gas needle for example, the needle goes to full then drops back to empty, the engine will turn over but will not crank.
View 2 RepliesI left my F150 to sit over the winter parked near my house. Battery was bad when I went to start it a few weeks ago. Got a new battery, threw it in, but still no start. It wouldn't crank.
Went to work on it today and the battery was totally dead, took it to schucks and they said it was bad. So I got it replaced with a fresh one and I'm still getting the same thing.
Turn the key on and accessories come on, turn it all the way and nothing happens, except for the aftermarket radio turns off. I replaced the ignition switch last year. I tore apart the dash to see if that went out again but it looks fine.
What should my next step be?
I am having problems with my truck not sure where to start. It was my everyday truck until one day I got ready to leave for work and the truck wouldn't say anything. It was getting power but no crank no start. Called tow truck he checked battery said that it was good. I got home tried to start truck and it started. I drove to the store and it did the same thing no crank no start. It has 110,000 Sigle cab manual windows...
View 2 RepliesI have a problem my slave cylinder went out on my f150 so my buddy and I decided we were going to fix the problem. But while I was in there I figured I would replace the clutch, pressure plate, bearing, rear seal, and obviously the cylinder. When I was putting the flywheel on the "first time" i must have stripped out 3 holes because of not having the flywheel properly aligned. So I tapped out the holes to clean up threads and when we finally aligned the flywheel on the crank to right position I went to go torque down all the bolts three of the bolts would just keep on spinning in the hole. Now keep in mind I replaced all the old bolts with brand new ones from the dealer. What can I do to fix this problem I need my truck back asap!!! Can I go to a longer bolt to hit good threads or what do I do? I'm worried about my motor going out of balance if I mess something up here!!!
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