Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2000 4.6L - Missing Only Between 1500 And 2000 RPM
Aug 2, 2007
I have a 2000 F150 with 4.6l triton 125k miles. i have a bad miss ONLY between 1500 and 2000 rpm. This will happen in any gear and in neutral, but only between those rpm's. seems to happen more constant in warm weather. This miss is so bad it feels like the transmission is going to fall out. but since it does it in neutral i doubt tranny problems. things I've replaced: fuel filter, tranny fluid and filter, crankshaft pos. camshaft pos, TPI, MAF, spark plugs, Ignition coils ( all 8) cleaned throttle body ( found 1 EGR port clogged completely )..
I had a couple codes but nothing constant. Been working on this for about 1 year. Codes p0320 (ignition speed input error) p0262 (injector circuit high cylinder #1). my only question here is...... What would only make this dang engine miss between 1500 and 2000 rpm. motor runs perfect thru all other ranges. idle... high speed.. and even throttling through this bad range is ok.. but when stabilizing between 1500 and 2000 starts jerking and missing like no fuel and no fire. i have put in superchip program couple years ago and it ran fine for about 1 year, then this trouble started... I have put back to stock program but still trouble.
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We got our first taste of fall weather in Houston this weekend, and with it I've discovered a new problem with my truck. After the engine was up to temp, I noticed that the heater would blow cold air any time I sat at idle. If you rev up the rpm's to 1500-2000, you can feel the air start to get warm again. I'm guessing this means my heater core needs to be backflushed.
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Have a problem with starting. Truck had an alarm system that I took off. Reconnected the wires back to factory. Installed a new battery-starter cable. Checked and had no radio and no power windows. Found two relays missing and one fuse under the hood missing. Installed new. Tried again and have all accessories but will do nothing when turning key to start. With key on I can jump across solenoid by starter and it will start. Once started it will not allow me to shift out of park. If I shut truck off and turn key to on position I can shift out of park and into neutral and jump across solenoid and it runs. Once I shift back into park it kills the truck and we start all over again. I've traced wires and fuses and can't find anything. 2000 f150 xlt 4x4 5.4l....
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I have a 2000 E350 boxtruck with a 5.4 auto. The motor is a new rebuilt with about 4000 mile, coils were replaced with motor, injectors were rebuilt with motor.Today (500 miles from home) the truck died. I was going up a slight hill on an interstate. It will still start, but runs very rough and when I put it in gear and step on the gas it dies.
So I had it towed to a garage. While pushing it into the garage I noticed my gas cap was missing. I know it was on 45 min earlier because I got gas. Did I forget to put in back on? probably.. But I wondering if the missing gas cap could cause the truck to run bad,vary bad?
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I have a 2000 f150 with 5.4 Triton with 165k miles. I did invest in a code reader. It started missing and code P0302 came up along with P0171. Put new coil on #2 and truck ran fine for a few days. Then it started to run rough again. Shaking, Idle rough, no power and CEL came on again. This time code P0171. I changed out fuel filter to no avail. My next step was to start looking for vacuum leaks. As I'm searching, All I am finding is trucks with this problem also get P0174 code. My question is since I am only getting lean on one bank does that pretty much eliminate things like MAF or the famous elbow vacuum leak and make something that only affects one bank like an O2 sensor on CAT more likely?
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2003 F250. 6 speed. 5.4 2v. 4x4. 165,000 miles
When purchased, there was a vacuum leak and truck ran like crap and PO drove it that way for a while. I fixed the vacuum leak, discovered a miss between 1,500 and 2,000 rpms in every gear while accelerating. No miss at idle.
The truck has:
- no CEL
- new Motorcraft spark plugs that were not dropped, bumped, or over torqued.
- new fuel filter
- new air filter
- new alternator
*The miss usually does NOT happen in the morning on the way to work after sitting 14 hours.
*The miss almost always goes away after the truck gets up to operating temp.
*The miss ALWAYS is present after work on the way home after sitting 9 hours.
Fuel pressure?
Bad COP?
Fuel Injector?
Something totally different?
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Lately I have been having problems loosing power. Truck wants to miss mostly going up hill and runs sluggish I'll pull off the road and let it idle for a minute and it will run fine. And it is only occasionally some days it don't happen at all and other days it happens quit often. New fuel filter, oil is good, had it on the scanner and isn't throwing any codes. Around 230k miles newer injectors.
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My car is standard 5 speed transmission, when my car is running my idle varys between 800ish to 1500 intermittently within seconds and if I don't drive it after starting the car it will stall on me (in neutral) after the rpms go up and down about 9 times.
The thing I found is if I disconnect my idle air control valve attached to my throttle body it stops the jumps in rpm. I have tried replacing the valve with one of my friends control valve Hyundai accent 2004 that works and fits perfectly on his doesn't work on mine. Right now I have my idle air control valve disconnected at the moment but i want to fix this issue because my rpms are at 1300 at idle.
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Recently I have had many problems with my 2000 7.3l .... The one I cant get rid of is the p1316 code. I have changed out the uvc harness and gasket with new ones, then removed valve cover's to double check connections again and they are fine. I am getting white smoke and the truck misses. I do not have a advanced reader for the codes just using my edge programmer. I have also disconnected the battery and cleared the code but it comes right back.
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Well, long story is that I starting have problems with my 2000 F350 Dually 7.3 PSD about 6 months ago ( ~10K miles ago ). I have sunk almost 5K$ in mechanics and the problem is still present.
By troubleshoot, I do not mean try this, try this, as that has been what is happening. I mean making test measurements and diagnostics. I am fairly mechanically inclined, but I am no mechanic. Looking for primers on how the 7.3 PSD works.
Symptoms: After the truck sits 12 to 14 hours, it starts and idles fine ( ~ 700 RPM on the 'Dash Tach' ) just as it has always done. During the first 5 miles of driving it, the SES light comes on and it sputters, stalls, and vibrates as if a couple of the injectors are not firing. It then clears up and the SES light goes out, except that it idles at about 1200 RPM ( 'Dash Tach' ).
It runs fine like this the rest of the day, If I shut it down it will start right up and run fine, but it has the high idles. Only if it is shut down longer than 12 to 16 hours do the symptoms, other than the high idle, reappear. The high idle is constant. Also mpg have fallen ( 13 opposed to 16 ).
It does not seem to be related to ambient temperature, or the amount of warm-up idle. I have idled it for three hours on startup and it is fine, until I drive the first 5 miles or so.
Now, I have had three mechanics work on it and they have replaced: the ICP sensor ( 3 times ), the Fuel filter ( twice ), drained, flushed and refilled the HPOP, replaced both sides of the valve cover wiring harness, put in a new IDM, fuel heater, CPS sensor ( 3 times ), fuel pump in fuel tank, EBPV ( not sure what this is ), and the last straw was saying the injectors needed to be replaced ( or at least the O-rings, but while we are in there you might as well ... ).
I bought a cheap code reader and it says: P1316 & P1211. I believe these are the same codes since day 1.
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2000 F250, 7.3, 170K, running rough, knocking loudly, missing, shaking, no power to get up driveway, intermittent, no codes spit out at all. No smoke visible, no leaks visible, New fuel filter, air filter, update cam sensor, new fuel rail lift pump, new uvc harness, new glow plug relay.
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I have a 2000 F-150 XL with a 4.2 V-6, a 5 speed manual transmission and manual shift on the fly transfer case. The 4WD went out over a year ago. When it went out, I was driving at 65 MPH and heard what sounded like rapid relay chatter for several seconds (10 to 15 seconds) and it stopped. The sound seemed like it was coming from the dashboard area where the GEM is located, but may have been from the solenoids mounted on the engine compartment firewall. Actually could have been from both. When the 4WD tried to engage while driving at 65 MPH, the dash lights were flashing on and off and it sounded like the front differential was trying to engage. Of course I slowed down while this occurred to avoid damaging the truck should it succeeded to engage the front differential.
I have a Haynes manual but the wiring diagrams are some what ambiguous as my truck is not as common as those having ESOF. Even researching online I am not certain if the info pertains to my truck. The only diagram I found to be accurate is the vacuum control diagram. I believe I have either a wiring problem or the GEM is bad. When troubleshooting I like to isolate at the middle points to quickly eliminate one side or another when looking at a diagram/schematic.
Ford had a well-noted problem with the two solenoids that control the 4WD actuator and are mounted on the engine compartment firewall. So I started here, as this is a good halfway point and high failure area.Well, the solenoid power connectors had 12 volts on both connector pins (if I remember correctly as it was a year ago when I did some troubleshooting)regardless of transfer case shift position (2wd, 4wd high or low). I was able to manipulate the solenoids and verified they were operating, as I could feel and here the solenoids click when grounding the control side of the pin on each solenoid. I did check fuse 23 prior to checking the solenoids. Since 12 volts was present at the solenoids, it indicated power was getting to them.
So another common problem is the transfer case 4WDsensor. I removed, cleaned, and verified operation of the sensor. Reinstalled and check sensor state with transfer case in all 3 positions and it was working correctly. Also I have no 4WD indication on the dashboard when 4WD high or low is selected. Fuse 6 is good.
My main issue is not having confidence with the wiring diagrams I have found online. I am not sure if my truck has a MSOF relayor the transfer case 4WD sensor signal goes directly to the GEM.
I need to check:
1. Wiring from transfer case 4WD sensor to either GEM or MSOF relay, if there is a relay, will check it along with wiring to GEM,but don't believe it exists for my truck. (I need the wiring diagram to do this)
2. If the transfer case 4WD sensor output is getting to the GEM module, I would think the GEM module is bad. If possible, I would like to check the GEM module outputs to the solenoids, but since the GEM is buried behind the fuse panel, it probably is not feasible.
I plan to call the Ford service department in my area to determine what GEM I have and will buy a GEM online. Replacing the GEM does not look fun, so I have avoided it but wanted to be sure it was the problem.
So I want to know if I am tracking correctly and if there is anything else I should check, and would like the correct wiring diagram as indicated in item 1.
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My hubby is working on a 2000 F150. The heater does not get hot. He has checked the blend door and it is functioning correctly. Is there a valve on the back of the engine that shuts the water off going to the heater core?
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I am having a hell of a time getting this off. How to do it? Its a 02 f150 xlt with a 4.2 v6...
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My 2000 f150's 4x4 won't work, it has esotf, I have replaced everything I can think of, when I turn it to 4hi and 4 low i get nothing, no clicks no dash lights. I have replaced the gem, the switch, the relays, checked the fuses, i bench tested the motor it works, if i put 12v to the shift motor while on the t/c it engages to 4x4 (though I haven't driven it like that because I am not sure if its in 4hi 4 lo or in between the two) so that being said...
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My scenario: 2000 F150 4x4 Supercab 5.4L 161k miles. Codes on my scan are P0113 intake air temp sensor 1 circuit high. P0102 mass air flow volume low. P0305 cyl 5 misfire. P0307 cyl 7 misfire. The 1st code I'm unfamiliar with sensor location? 2Nd code i replaced air filter, removed MAF sensor for cleaning and it appears to have only 1 heating wire or filament. Shouldn't there be 2? Plugs were changed approx 15k ago however COP's were not. Should that be my first remedy for 305&307, new plugs and coils? Also what is next sensor in line between MAF and throttle body? Is that the sensor from code P0113?
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Purchased new 2000 F150 5.4 automatic 2wd now the power steering has gone out. I read all the things about the intermediate shaft seizing up so sprayed and prayed until I finally broke down and ordered a new one. Well I just pulled off the original with over 250,000 miles it seems like new. The tiny u-joints are very free moving (not sloppy at all) and the sliding shaft works fine.
I'm starting to worry that the power steering pump is shot although it was not squealing or groaning. I do have some tie rod and ball joint squeaks, could that be it? I'm really frustrated thinking it was going to be a simple intermediate shaft replacement now I've got a brand new one and the same problem. The lower power steering hose was pretty grimy but I figured that was all of the PBlaster I'd been spraying on it.
I'm going to jack it up and try moving the wheels back and forth to see if it is binding anywhere. Was reading about a high pressure switch but where that even is or if the 2000 has it.
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Looking for a diagram for the ecm pinouts for a 2000 5.4 4x4 f150? Im mostly trying to find the TCC for the tranny.
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My 2000 F-150 odometer light goes on and off intermittent. How to fix this?
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A year ago, I was driving down the highway ,gas low,and it just died. Half hour later stasrts right up. No problem since then until 2 months ago. It's died 4 times in last 2 months regardless of how much gas in tank. Just stops out of blue when coming to stop signs. Half hour or so will start right back up with no problem.
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I bought this truck new, then sold it to my son, now I bought it back from him. it has sat a lot the last three years. replaced egr valve 08-13, fuel filter 12-13. CEL has been on for a while 02 sensor, it had a bad miss in it so had advance auto scan it and it had miss in #3,#5 and I think he said high pressure exhaust gas? he cleard the codes, so on the way home, It started running good.
The next day it started right up and drove it a couple blocks. it sat for 30 min. then wouldn't start. I cranked it for a while. No gas smell? Hooked a timing light up and didn't get no light? I am not sure if you can check to see if its firing this way? What is the firing order? how to check the fuel pressure? when I have removed gas cap it doesn't make any sound from pressure in the tank. Also how to test coil?
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