Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - Front Brakes Dragging / Sticky Caliper
Aug 30, 2014
Bought a high mileage 99 f150 4x4 yesterday. In the process of cleaning her up, the water hose hit the disc brakes on the drivers side and it was hotter than a BBQ grill! Ok, immediately I thought this isn't good. Jacked her up and pulled the caliper. Pads were almost gone so replaced them with a new set, went for a drive. Now the damn things were smoking so bad I thought they were gonna catch fire! Sticky caliper , right? Stopped and got one then realized that the passenger side started doing it too.
Another trip for the other caliper and new pads because these were toast. I mean just burnt to hell. Before I started working on the truck again, I checked on here and I'll be darned if I didn't find out that the old brake hoses might be acting like a check valve because of rust and deterioration. Got a set of brakes hoses too. Put everything on this morning and works like a charm.
1999 4.6 XL
Passenger side done
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I have a 99 f150 4x4 that has done this twice, once last year and once this year during hot (90+) weather. I'll notice the vehicle seems like it doesn't want to go. Park overnight and it will work ok. Last time it happened the other day I stopped at wally world and both front wheels were real hot and I could smell the brakes. Came out hour later and when I pushed the brake pedal to put it in gear the pedal went to the floor.
Pumped up pedal and drove off but truck would barely move, drove 10 mph to a buddy of mines shop and it sat overnight and worked perfect the next day. He inspected everything and seems to think it might be the abs control unit. He noticed a small amount of fluid had come out of the unit and dripped on the ground. Also no abs light or brake light has ever come on
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On a 1998 F150 2 wheel drive 4.6 250k, the front brakes will drag under a specific set of circumstances; only in prolonged stop and go traffic with hot ambient temps. Rotors, calipers, rear shoes, drums, fluid, bearings, seals have all been replaced. This occurs only a couple of times a year, otherwise the brakes work perfectly. It starts out as a slight shimmy that worsens until you can smell the pads cooking and the wheels are hotter than hell. The truck will hardly move at times. The rears are normal. After the truck cools for hours, no symptoms.
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I have a 1999 F150 Supercab, 2wd. I just replaced the front rotors, calipers, and pads. Before I did this, the front right caliper was locking up completely. Now, after the new stuff is installed, the truck pulls very hard to the left when braking. The harder you brake, the harder it pulls left. What should I look at next?
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I have a 1999 ford f150 with 4.2 and 156,000 miles, about a month ago I drove from my house to a friends house a few hrs away. On my way home I started smelling a burning smell and stopped and my brakes were smoking. So I replaced brake calipers and still they drug then I changed brake lines and I can still only drive a few miles with out them getting really hot and dragging....
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My husband bought a 1997 Ford F150 and the seller said he changed the brake lines, but the back brakes have dragged on takeoff since he bought it. Just put new shoes on it and it's still doing the same thing, but now the drums are getting hot. Is it possible that the seller got the brake line backwards and that might make the back brakes drag?
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Went and got new tires on the supercrew. Went going through parking lots or simply driving i hear a loud squeal like brake pad squeal. I put brand new wagner ceramics on the truck. Also if i turn to the left the driver side rear sounds like brakes are dragging against the rotor. Whats goin on with this. The squeal will happen between 10 mph to 20 mph and the grinding noise will happen if I am cruising or turning to the left. It goes away when i apply the brakes.
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2003 Santa Fe 3.6 V6 with ABS
The car sat virtually driven for a year before it was given to me. After 2 weeks of normal driving this past December, the power brakes completely went out. Had to drive the pedal to the floor to stop at even slow speeds. Took the mechanic and they replaced the Master Cylinder and both brake lines.
Shortly thereafter had an unrelated issue with a coilpack gone bad. Replaced coilpack and at that time replaced both sets of brake pads on the rear.
In January, started noticing grinding metal on metal from both front brakes. Took the mechanic and they replaced both calipers, rotors, and pads.
2 weeks or so later, after 10 minutes of driving the front brakes started dragging. The pedal would become extremely hard, and I could notice thew smell of the pads burning. Would have to pull over, put the car in park and pump the brakes to get the calipers to release. This would occur intermittently every few days. Pumping the brakes would always solve the problem.
Over time, the issue became worse, ocurring far more frequently. Around this time I noticed leaving the engine on in park while pumping the brakes would no longer solve the issue. I would have to completely turn the car off and pump the brakes to get them to release.
Started noticing around this same time that the left rear started grinding. The brake pads completely wore down in 3 months time. Too to the mechanic. Replaced caliper, rotor and pads.
Still having the same issue with the brakes dragging. One mechanic thought it could be ABS related and advised me to pull the fuse and the two breakers to diagnose. Still had the same issue, so put the fuse and breakers back in.
No mechanic seems to know what is going on with it, and I'd hate to have to replace all the brakes again as the problem goes untreated. Is it possible that the master cylinder or brake booster could be the issue? It's a brand new master but that doesn't necessarily mean anything, I'm told. Again, I can only get the brakes to release the pressure by pumping the pedal with the engine off.
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Truck is 2007 6.0L 4 door F-250 FX4
So this started after some High water encounters around my area. All freshwater. Went to the store and then i notice the truck pulling Left and got home and checked brake temps and the driver front and rear were over 400*F passenger side was 150* or less. No trailer no load in the bed. I decided to clean everything. Pads are worn but still have life.
Rotors showed some signs of where the pad is dragging Not bad though just a small area close to the top hat. I cleaned pads, carriage, and clips and reinstalled everything with some anti seize on the edges of the pads where the clips are and at the same spots on the carriage.
Thought it was ok but the after more water and a day or two sitting the same thing happened again. It is only the drivers side and it's both front and rear. I am stumped on this one. Two calipers going bad at once? I need to tow a boat on Monday So I have got to fix this.
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First it was the RH now after replacing the rotors, calipers and new shoes. The LH is now doing it. It doesn't stop the truck just gets hot, the wheel, and u can smell it. The truck is a 97 f150 ext cab 2wd short box, had since new and has over 200,000 miles and going strange until now. I want to get 300000.0 before I let her go. Had to replace a rear axle brake line years ago, and do not think the lines were bleed right, the brakes never work just right.
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My buddy has been having a strange problem with his 275,000 mile 2003 F150 2wd. The right side caliper will lock up out of the blue and will not release for anything. We put 3 news calipers on it within a 4 week period thinking that we had a defective one but no change. I am thinking either a bad brake line or, more likely, the front abs block...
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The wife and I ventured out last Friday evening to run a few errands. When we returned to the house and pulled into the garage, we both smelled burning brake pad. I felt the rear wheels, the drivers side was too hot to touch.
Dragging brake caliper. I got online and reserved a drivers side caliper and a set of pads at NAPA. Saturday morning I removed the caliper. Much to my surprise, one of the caliper pistons was broken into multiple pieces.
I took the offending caliper to NAPA and picked up the new caliper and a set of pads.
Side note - NAPA seems to think the 2007 trucks have calipers that mount in front of the axle, not behind the axle. They will try to sell you a passenger side caliper and tell you it is a driver side caliper. It will bolt up fine, but the bleeder valve will be at the bottom of the caliper instead of the top. You'll never get the air out of the caliper.
Got back home, bolted up the new caliper and pads, then bled the system. All worked well.
I decided to throw new pads on the passenger side brakes as well, since I had 2 remaining. I took off the passenger side caliper, much to my surprise I found a cracked and broken piston on that side also! Another run to NAPA to pick up another caliper. Installed, bled the system again, all working well.
Now, I have never seen a cracked and broken caliper piston like this, let alone one on each side of the rear axle. What might have caused this? About a year ago I had a shop install new backing plates. The pads and calipers are about 3 years old, same shop installed those.
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I had both front brakes lock up on me the other day and burnt the shoes out so I replaced the pads and installed new calipers and flex lines. I also went ahead and replaced the rear shoes and both wheel cylinders since this truck had been sitting up for the past few years I figured why not. I flushed the system out but I can not get all the air out of the right rear wheel cylinder. My question is could the new wheel cylinder be bad? The new left cylinder blew out when I first started bleeding the right side. I could not get any pressure at all and I looked over and seen fluid pouring out the left side. I put the old one back on only due to time restraints. Should I replace the right side again as well? I have used up 4 1/2 bottles of 3e2 oz brake fluid and still have air in that side.
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Here's the deal:
* Drive the truck after it's been sitting a while (overnight, or at least a couple of hours), everything's fine. Good brake pedal feel.
* Drive 10-15 miles, stop-and-go at lights and stop signs, the brake pedal slowly goes from normal to firm, to very firm. Then, no play whatsoever and brakes are dragging bad. Yesterday, they were dragging so bad that I had it pulled into 1st gear with pedal on the floor just to get thru an intersection.
* Get out and check each wheel, all 4 brakes are dragging. I can tell from the heat pouring out of each wheel. And I've verified with infrared thermometer. Also, I've raised the vehicle when this is happening, and all 4 wheels will not turn. So it's definitely all 4 brakes.
At first, I assumed it was seized slide pins. But I've THOROUGHLY cleaned each and every one, and lubed with synthetic caliper grease. When the brakes are feeling normal, I've had my wife pump the brakes while I watched the calipers. Near as I can tell, they slide easily. Again, when my problem happens, it's all 4 wheels SIMULTANEOUSLY. So I've pretty much ruled out slide pins.
The brake pedal itself isn't getting bound by anything. It moves freely and I've lubed each of the pivot points. No problems there.
* When the brakes are dragging, I can crack the bleed screws and some fluid will come out at each wheel, which releases the brake at that wheel and I can then turn each wheel freely. So, there's residual pressure in the lines. I replaced the master cylinder (twice actually). No change in behavior.
BTW: I thoroughly bled the lines after each of the two master cylinder changes. I must've put 60+ ounces of fresh/clean/new fluid into the system so this isn't related to old fluid.
* Next, when the brakes are dragging, I can unscrew the master cylinder about 1/8-inch or so from the booster, and the brakes immediately release. Again, indicating residual pressure in the lines. So, I assume that something funky is going on with the brake booster. Also, when the brakes are dragging, I can pull the vacuum hose from the brake booster. And after a few seconds the brakes release. So I installed a new brake booster (re-manufactured one from NAPA -- they didn't offer a brand new one). No change in behavior.
After swapping the brake booster, I can still pull the vacuum tube when the brakes are dragging and it'll release in just a few seconds. So, it really seems like something is going on with the booster, but I can't figure out what it might be.
It is possible for the brake booster vacuum tube to have TOO MUCH vacuum, thereby causing the brakes to be unknowingly applied? Is there maybe a regulating valve of some kind in the line?
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1998 FORD E350 CLUB WAGON 15 PASSENGER VAN. Front brakes are sticking bad. Stop at intersection with snow or slick condition and you can barely get the van to start moving. After you do you can fell the drag and the vehicle working hard to keep moving. Take tires off front, can not see anything obvious that is wrong. Can see where the bake pads are leave makes on the rotor.
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The last two days after driving home i noticed a smell upon exiting the truck. today i figured out what it was, the left front wheel was smoking. i.e. i believe the brake is dragging. the weird thing is going to work no issue, coming home issue. big difference is yesterday coming home was about 90, today 95. in the morning yesterday it was 60 today 74.
Is it possible the hot temp is causing some kind of an issue? it just started getting hot here and this had never happened before.
Truck is an 05 4X4 Lariat SuperCab with 70K. did brakes ( rotors with angled coolng fins up front ) and pads at around 40K. i just rotated teh tires about 1500 mile ago and there was plenty of pad, inner and outer.
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The front brakes on my 2000 Toyota Sienna are dragging occasionally. I have replaced the front calipers (one of them twice), the master cylinder, and the ABS unit (with a junk yard unit). I have also shortened the master cylinder push rod to see if that would make a difference. The brakes still drag occasionally as indicated by the front hubs becoming excessively hot.
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I was uber excited to buy my first brand new truck in 09..... Amount numerous issues, defective rear window (fought with ford for 3 years never replaced under warranty), sync issues draining my battery, multiple O2 sensors replaced, multiple lights replaced and a blown drive shaft all under warranty. Now my warranty literally just ended, years not miles, just rolled 36k yesterday, ran out 3 years in November 12, now I'm having break issues.
A few weeks ago while driving, I released the gas and truck seem to slow faster than normal. Seemed kind of unusual but also began to noticed a drag on my mpg, about 2-4 mpg difference, depending on highway or in town. Now 3 weeks later, I feel grinding under breaking. Now it's beginning to make sense. I figure probably a stuck caliper. While driving with head out the window , freezing in IL, by the way, seems to be the drivers front. Checked rotors, outsides only as there are the guards preventing me from checking the back side. No visual or touch grooves ground into the rotors from the pads being worn out. Best bet is its the back side of the caliper that is locked.
Question 1, does this make sense, only one side of the caliper locking up? I had a caliper lock on my old GTP but the whole thing locked up.
Question 2, do I just suck it up and replace the breaks my self, gf's dad is a manager at O'rylies so I can get anything I want at cost, or do I go back to the dealer and bitch about mechanical problems being constant with my new now only weeks out of warranty truck? I read some horror stories about clogged lines and numerous other issues causing calipers to lock. I don't feel like replacing my whole break system, lines, calipers and all just to make sure the problem is fixed. At 3 years this seems ludicrous.
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Replaced break pads, calipers and master cylinder...still breaks sticking parts were replaced 3 weeks ago and are worn already.
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What would cause my front disc brakes not to work. I have replaced the master cylinder, calipers, hoses and pads. Backs work fine but I can not get good pressure to the front. 1993 f150 5.0 ..
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The brakes seam to be dragging on my F550.It won't roll when out of gear. Noticed a good deal of brake dust on all 4 corners after just a couple hundred miles. Also,when it does roll I can some times hear it creak slightly. At not time does it lose any braking action nor does the brake pedal get hard or soft.I know it will need pads and rotors soon since the rotors are pretty grooved. (Just bought the truck last month....it's on my LOOOOONG to do list.....).
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