My 99 F150 with 200K miles, but running like new, dropped the rusted front gas tank today. I removed it and would like to use the rear tank which is almost new - put in last year.
Is it possible to make it go with only the rear tank? This is only a plow truck (no plates or insurance) just used in my driveway! Top speed for me 4 MPH. hOW TO BE able to get it to run with only rear tank?
1996 F-150 5.0... So I bought this truck a couple months ago for a really good price and its my regular vehicle that I use daily. While driving I switched tanks from the front to rear and when i reached my destination i noticed that fuel spilled from the cap, I opened the cap and fuel overflowed. I've read in forums saying that its the Fuel Pressure Regulator or the Fuel Tank Selector Valve . It still drives and runs fine, but I would like to know which part its specifically causing the problem?
View 1 Replies1999 4.6 F150. So my truck is 2wd, and I have noticed that after about an hour of driving, and regular braking at turns and stop lights that between 25 and 55mph my rear end bounces like I am riding on speed humps. Not subtle at all. You can look in the rear view mirror and see the bed going up and down about 2". Feels like it has square tires if you know what I mean.
Anyway, I checked the rear brakes thinking maybe they are old and starting to stick. I have never smelled any brake burning, but I can only assume its the brakes because in that same hour the rear brakes develop an uneven feeling. I am sure you know what I'm talking about......when your brakes go bad you have that on/off brake feeling. Like surging I guess.
They are drums by the way. The shoes themselves don't look bad.....there is still meat on them. Maybe about an 1/8". No rivets showing or anything. The passenger rear shoe has one hairline crack at the top, but no other signs of damage.
Lastly, I checked the rear end and I wasn't sure what the margin of acceptable play is for in and out movement of the rear wheels. If I grab my tire I can push in and pull out with about an 1/8" of play......normal????
I have a 1999 F-150, 4.2L V6 with 206,000 miles that recently developed a rear-end shudder/vibration. According to my door jam axle code (27) and the axle tag (3 37), I have what appears to be a conventional rear differential, even though most of my research would indicate this rear-end is for the F-250. In any case, and based on other online research, I changed the differential oil with a 75W-140 synthetic and added 4oz of a friction modifier. Now the vibration appears to be worse. It primarily vibrates when taking off from a stop, whether turning or not.
I have felt the vibration at speeds up to 60mph, but it is more noticeable at lower speeds. The vibration also seems to diminish after driving the truck for longer periods of time, particularly if at highway speeds. In other words, when I drive to and from work, which is about 30 minutes each way of mostly highway, the vibration is barely noticeable once I exit the highway and slow back down to 35-40mph. When feeling the vibration, if I decelerate, the vibration immediately ceases, but starts again when I accelerate. It's not as noticeable if I accelerate harder, but I generally don't do that. The gears inside the differential didn't have any noticeable wear, chips or slop/play. What may be plaguing my usual trouble-free F150?
I have jammed rear doors on my 1999 Ford F-150 XLT 2wd. Opened when I bought the truck a year ago, no accidents or damage since, but first one door, then the other decided to not open. Will I have to pull the interior door panel off to get at the mechanism ?
View 10 RepliesMy buddy just purchased a 1999 F-150. He called me to complain that the white lights on either side of the high mount stoplight (above the rear cab window) won't turn off. Are these a bed light or a reverse light? If they are independent of the reverse lights, how do you turn them off?
View 2 RepliesI got a new to me 1998 F150 a week or so ago but it got parked quickly when I realize the gas tank strap was broken. I took it to a dealer today and they replaced the strap.
View 3 RepliesRecently purchased a 2000 ford f150 4.2l. started hesitating when i would try to accelerated stressed or when a.c on. if i drive it like a grandpa wont do it. filled up the gas tank and it completely went away. the second it went down to the 3/4 line, started hesitating again. mind you when it was full even with the a.c on and going 80mph on expressway it would not hesitate.
View 2 RepliesMy '97 truck has over 315,000 miles on it, original fuel tank, 30.1 gallons, replaced fuel pump maybe a 9 months ago. No gas gauge problems until today. Bought gas this AM and had about 3/4 of a tank. During my drive home (56 miles round trip), noticed the gauge was read about an 1/8. Had monsoon rains today, so I wouldn't have noticed any gas pooling under the truck or a smell if it was suddenly leaking. On the was to fuel up, low fuel light came on. Bought only 5 gals of gas in case tank was leaking and I have to drop the tank. Low fuel light out after restarting the engine but the gauge reads the same, about an eighth? Diagnostic ideas? Won't really be able to examine the tank for leaks until things dry off, probably tomorrow. Diagnostics??
View 4 RepliesIt was working fine then I drove on a 2 hour highway trip and now it will not open. This is the Xtra cab where you open the front door and then the rear from the inside. The door ajar switch is out. I suspect one of the latches is stuck. There is one on the top and one on the bottom of the door.
View 2 Replies1997..FordF150 4.6L 4x4 Manual transmission ~~
To start ... truck seem to be having misfire issues one day...first thought was gas tank was low and running out of gas with no warning from low fuel light. Made it to station got gas no more trouble. Week or so later climbed in truck that morning went to start it and felt like it was running off 4 cylinders, shaking, misfire and engine light flickering constantly.. eventually died left it off took the Harley to work...
Later that evening after I got home put scanner on it got a code PO453 "Evaporation Emissions Control System Pressure Sensor High Input".. Looked it up.. found the location to be on top fuel tank...first thought great gotta drop tank to replace sensor... after the scan reset sensor. Next mourning started truck ran great ..no engine light... took it for a spin no problems parked it. Next mourning going to work started it same problem...Shake Rattle and Roll...
Friend told me to unhook ground cable to reset computer... did it..left it for couple hours..hooked it back up..started fine..no engine light running great drove it 3 to 4 miles no problems. Took it to car wash cleaned it started again drove home parked it. Next mourning same thing shaky shaky...
Took to local shop to have it checked out (drove it there ran great with engine light on)... they seem to think sensor is OK.... Their thought P C M.. Supposedly took PCM off cleaned contacts and one of the mechanics drove truck home with no problems...next mourning same issue shaky shaky.... New PCM right direction ?
Suppose a puncture hole were to inadvertently appear in the bottom of my gas tank? What would be some good ways to plug the hole? I'm thinking a fine thread stainless steel flat head screw that was screwed into a tapped hole with special glue/sealant and a washer would probably work.
You're probably catching on now... A non electric drill would probably be best to drill into the bottom of a full gas tank but all I have presently are battery powered and 100volt drills.
1997 F150, 4.2L V6 200k miles. Truck has been running fine. No CEL, or anything. Stopped and filled up the tank and within 10 minutes of leaving the pump, the CEL came on. Code is P0430.
I drive this truck 60 miles a day. It's shown no signs of any issues until the light came on today. Just curious if some bad gas could cause this or am I in for CAT replacement...
2003 F150 5.4l Super Crew. 40k miles. Current service.
About a year ago I ran out of gas on a hill, this is when my strange problem started. Since then I have ran out of gas at least two other times, but both times the tank was between 1/4 and 1/2 on the gauge and only took 8-10 gallons to fill up, so the tank was far from empty! Both times. after I put a gallon or two in, the truck started right up and ran fine. I have gone long trips and ran the tank down to near empty (light on not really empty) and the truck had no problems. But every now and then between 1/4 and 1/2 it just dies and will not start until I put a gallon or two in the tank.
So today, at about a half a tank, the truck dies. I call for the tow service and when the tow truck driver gets there I explain what has been going on. He jumps in the drivers seat and works his magic on the ignition. I don't know exactly what he did but he turned the key to on for like 10 seconds, removed the key, put it back in, turned it to AC.... and so on, obviously ran a clear code or something.... then he turns it over and it fires right up, this is without adding any fuel!
He said that there may have been an air bubble in the line when I ran out of gas before and the computer code needed to be cleared. Is the tow truck guy right? am i in the clear here or do i need to started checking fuel pressure, pumps, filters and so on?
I have a 97 F-150 and my Radiator fluid has been leaking very bad but hasn't been taking the fluid from overflow tank. Actually the new fluid that I put in the overflow has now turned a rusty color....
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 expy with the 5.4 just turned over 200k. I bought the upper and lower radiator hoses awhile back and finally gotta chance to change them out. I noticed i got the wrong bottom hose so I only swapped out the top hose. I filled it back up with 1.5 gal of distilled water. After I drove it about 60 miles I checked the overflow tank and noticed copper colored flakes in it. Im assuming the previous owner put some stop leak in it but not sure Ive never had any problems as far as overheating or losing coolant. What else could it be? Im going to get the right bottom hose and do a flush. Can I use the bottom hose I have, its got the two extra hoses for the oil cooler? I was just going to connect the two hoses together but not sure if that will cause a problem.
View 1 RepliesSo my truck felt gutless somtimes, wouldn't start Every couple days , and Fuel gauge stops at half tank won't show full, so I went n bought a new fuel pump..... Well shoot nothing changed . I guess my next move is pull the dash off n fix gauge? It used to be a reliable truck . Now Im not comfortable to let wife drive it . I also pulled the chip to see if that had to do with not starting, also theft light blinks normal. I'm going to get some connector grease n redo all of my wires to c if there's just connection issues.
View 6 RepliesSo today my 97 f150, 2wd 5.4L automatic has started giving me some troubles. The truck has 291k miles on it, i bought it with 260k miles on it. About a week ago the truck overheated due to a busted radiator side tank, it was promptly replaced the next day and i have had no problems with it since, till today. Sometimes when you start it it will stumble alive like its out of gas, give it a sec and it settles down. When you get going, its a little down on power, i know it has 291k miles on it but it pulled hard. Its OK till you get to about 35-40, when it just stops accelerating. I had my foot to the floor and it barely went above 40, if you ease into it slowly it will slowly accelerate till about 45, drop down to 40 and then go like normal.
When i changed the radiator i lost about a cup maybe a cup and a half of transmission fluid, i have gotten time to replace it but i didn't think that small amount of fluid would dramatically change performance, the fluid also looked almost new. The only other things i have done to the truck is some brake work and replace the alternator. I have no knowledge of what the previous over did or did not do. It is not throwing any code, and the OD light/button is broken, i think on newer rangers the OD light would would brink indicating transmissions problems, not sure if its the same on these trucks.
My 1999 F150 Supercab has developed a water leak which I would like to ask your opinions on. Parked on a 20 degree incline during a pouring rain yesterday, I came out to find a small puddle in the driver's side rear floor corner and about an ounce of water pooled in a little lip at the bottom of the rear window in the right corner of the window! Haven't started tearing anything apart yet (and might not be able to myself), but it seems that it is possibly the rear window seal as the window and the outside body area appear to be in good shape otherwise (no visible rust, no seal obviously dislocated, etc).
Also, don't know if it's related, the other day I jacked up the truck with a floor jack under the front crossmember but a bit off center which caused the truck to twist a bit before both wheels came off the ground. While doing this, I heard and felt a loud bang like something broke in the frame! Couldn't see anything out of place and something similar has happened before where a lug of the jack cup had shifted slightly while jacking the vehicle and it caused a loud bang to be heard, but this time it didn't quite feel like it was at the jack but further back.
Could something have "broken" in the truck that I can't quite see and thus this leak has occurred which wasn't there previously or could it just be coincidence that the bang and leak occurred so close in time to each other. I know it's hard to diagnose something like this without seeing the vehicle or really know what happened but I just had to put it out there as part of the events that occurred within the timeline for this leak.
From diagnosis we are pretty sure we have clogged fuel pick ups in the tank of my 99 7.3 Dually. So in I go to clean and repair or replace depending on what it looks like once we get in there.
We have most of the fuel out of the tank, pumped out just over 30 gallons.
I don't have a lift so this is being done on the ground, any easier way ? The bed bolts look pretty rusty and funky but we have been spraying them down with Kroil, the magic elixir, for a couple days to see if that will ease the removal of the fasteners.
Take the Bed Off and work with the tank in the frame or drop the tank out and work away from the truck ?
Having trouble getting large plastic nut to start threading on top of the fuel tank sending unit, after doing in tank mods.
It just doesnt seem to want to start threading on properly. Its always cocked when it grabs, and after a while opposite side pops up and it falls off. Not sure how to get it back on there
Dealer has new ring for 18 bucks, maybe mine is warped or dried up since 2000?