My buddy just purchased a 1999 F-150. He called me to complain that the white lights on either side of the high mount stoplight (above the rear cab window) won't turn off. Are these a bed light or a reverse light? If they are independent of the reverse lights, how do you turn them off?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 ford f150 2wd 4.2l v6 manual 5 speed kk... i recently put back brake pads on it on both sides bc they were original and they were getting kinda worn down after have 184,000 on them. so after i got them replaced i put it all back together and test drove it and every time I'd go to take off my abs light would light up. strange huh? i thought so. so i brought it back home and i remembered i forgot to bleed them after i put them on so i bleed them and everything still didn't work, it kept coming on..
So I checked the FL & FR abs speed sensors cleaned them up and put them back on still didn't work. So I found the rear speed sensor mounted on the differential and took it off it was pretty nasty and had a little bit of metal fragments on it so i bought a new one and I unplugged the batter and stuck it on hooked up the battery test drove it and the light has stayed off ever since!! so if u have put new back brakes on and the light comes on check the rear speed sensor first.. real easy to install just one bolt.
Why after disable DRL , When I do reverse only the passenger rear white light turn on. Before both turn on.
View 2 RepliesFor over a year, the truck took 5-6 seconds of cranking to start, but always started. This morning it started, but shakes, coughs, and vibrates like hell. It revs up but still sounds like its hitting only on a few. replaced ciols many times over the years, but this sounds different.
View 6 RepliesJust picked up a 1999 F-150 XL, 4.2L V6, 5-Speed. Spent half the day rewiring the headlights back to factory as a previous owner did a bunch of wiring that made absolutely no sense. (Foglights or KC lights?). Anyway, works great with the exception that the headlights turn on when I turn the selector to just parking lights. I removed all but the factory wires under the hood. I haven't been behind the dash yet to check the headlight switch and I was hoping to avoid doing so. A fuse or relay that may be causing the issue? I don't have a service manual yet so I haven't been able to identify all the fuses under the hood.
View 2 RepliesWhen my 99.5 SD is cold ( 50-60 f) it smokes a lot of white horrible smelling smoke for the first 2-4 minutes. If plugged in the block heater it doesn't do it. Also when cold, when you accelerate the SES light comes on until you let off on the throttle then it goes off. Even going 10mph in low rpm? Once engine is up to temp it doesn't do it anymore. It seems to run fine otherwise. I do have 2, 700 CCA Napa batteries that are from 2011 which I plan on replacing next month with Motorcraft Maxx 850 CCA.
I have replaced the UVCH, CPS, Fresh Oil and put additives in my fuel. I have even disconnected my DP Tuner F5 and it still does it. I have AE with ford bundle and it seems like my HPOP seems to be working fine as well as buzz test and glow plug. Could it be an injector ( I have stage1 casserly from full force)? What about a sensor not working? It has always smoked since I have had it ( about 3 years) but the SES light issue has only been happening since my IDM was replaced and I had a mechanic work on it.
My '99 F150 is having wiring issues. It started with a left flasher being fast and the rear bulb not working. I put in new bulb and that didn't fix it. Then I realized that I also had no tail lights. The reverse lights are good and the brake lights work too.
So far I have searched for and repaired suspicious splices done by PO, added a ground wire that was cut off from the trailer wiring harness, checked every fuse that I could with an ohmmeter and I pulled the multi function switch and tested it with an ohmmeter also. It tested fine but I did find one of the female pin connectors had pulled out of the harness. I managed to get it back in and seemed to click into place alright. Somewhere over the course of all that I now have both sides of my flashers fast and still no tail lights. Good news is that I haven't broken my brake lights or reverse lights yet.
Could I have a bad flasher relay? Earlier in the process I did have my 4 way flashers working correctly and a couple times I even had the turn signals going. Now, none of the rear blinking lights work but the front ones go 90 to nothing and I still have no tail lights. My truck does have the auto lamp thing.
Just picked up a 99 F250 7.3 Stroker, it had sat for two years in a warehouse, the truck had just had reman injectors put in right before it was parked. We fired it up, and it was missing, and smoking a lot (light blue, almost white) I checked the oil filler cap, and no water on it, after it ran for a while, it stopped. Shut it down, went and got my trailer ready to load the truck, fired it up, and no smoke to speak of, by the time I got it to my trailer, still no smoke.
I revved it against the governor a few times, hoping to clear the miss (figured may have been trash, or a sticky injector from sitting so long) It is turned up pretty good, as it came with a Superchip Super Tuner. It seems to hit on all eight above 2500 RPM or so. Brought it home, and took it out on the road, it seems to only miss under 2500 RPM or so. I took of from a dead stop, then got on it hard at about 15 to 20 MPH, it took of nice, then all of a sudden, the tach started climbing like the trans was slipping, looked in the mirror, and the tires were smoking, guess they broke loose when the boost came in!
I let it idle and warm up for a good half hour and noticed a lot of pure white smoke coming from the exhaust, went back to it and it was steam, I took the oil filler cap off, and there was a lot of steam coming out of there, pulled the dipstick, more steam, I then noticed the degas bottle was low, I topped it off, and got in the truck, and revved it a few times, then held it at 2500 RPM for about a minute, It started blowing water out from under the degas bottle cap. I called the guy I got it from, and he did NOT put new injector sleeves in when he did the injectors, I don't see any oil in the water, but there is water getting on the oil filler cap now! Does it sound like a head gasket, or an injector sleeve?
98 F150. Failed inspection for the dash brake light not coming on when you turn the key on. It comes on with the park brake set. Should it come on with key on as a bulb test?
View 7 RepliesI have a 1997 F150 5.4L 2wd long bed w/ tow package.
Right (passenger) turn signal/brake light is not illuminating. The tail light on the right side does illuminate when headlights are on. (Same Bulb) All other lights are functioning properly.
When the MFS is in the right turn position the right arrow on the dash flashes and clicks faster than normal.
This happened about a month ago and it turned out to be a blown fuse. The fuse was for the trailer lighting and right turn/stop light, found in the small fuse box under the hood that only holds 2 fuses. Problem solved temporarily...
Now the issue is back, Here are some things I've tried so far:
Replaced the fuse again; Turns out the fuse didn't blow this time, but I tried a new one anyway.
Cleaned the ground for the rear light wiring harness.
Replaced the bulb.
Replaced the relay.
Checked continuity on multi-function switch, right turn position reads 2.8 ohms IIRC
Repaired pin #5 on the multi-function switch wiring connector (wire backed out, right turn related)
Replaced the bulb socket.
Inspected the wiring for broken insulation/exposed wires from that socket to under the hood, didn't find anything exposed. All wires are still in the loom.
I replaced this wiring harness and wiring looms about 6 months ago because the previous owner had done a hideous splice job for unknown reasons, so it should be ok. Should I get a new multi-function switch, or try something else? If the switch doesn't work what's the next step?
1999 4.6 F150. So my truck is 2wd, and I have noticed that after about an hour of driving, and regular braking at turns and stop lights that between 25 and 55mph my rear end bounces like I am riding on speed humps. Not subtle at all. You can look in the rear view mirror and see the bed going up and down about 2". Feels like it has square tires if you know what I mean.
Anyway, I checked the rear brakes thinking maybe they are old and starting to stick. I have never smelled any brake burning, but I can only assume its the brakes because in that same hour the rear brakes develop an uneven feeling. I am sure you know what I'm talking about......when your brakes go bad you have that on/off brake feeling. Like surging I guess.
They are drums by the way. The shoes themselves don't look bad.....there is still meat on them. Maybe about an 1/8". No rivets showing or anything. The passenger rear shoe has one hairline crack at the top, but no other signs of damage.
Lastly, I checked the rear end and I wasn't sure what the margin of acceptable play is for in and out movement of the rear wheels. If I grab my tire I can push in and pull out with about an 1/8" of play......normal????
My 99 F150 with 200K miles, but running like new, dropped the rusted front gas tank today. I removed it and would like to use the rear tank which is almost new - put in last year.
Is it possible to make it go with only the rear tank? This is only a plow truck (no plates or insurance) just used in my driveway! Top speed for me 4 MPH. hOW TO BE able to get it to run with only rear tank?
I just bought a 97 f150 4x4 4.6L v-8 and keep having problems. The check engine light came on saying that it is running too lean. The truck had been sitting for a while so I changed the air filter, maf, and pcv valve. After changing the pcv valve it is now blowing white smoke. What can be causing this to happen?
View 1 RepliesWhen I lost the rear brakes due to a rusted line, naturally the ABS light came on. Will it automatically reset when everything is repaired and working or is there something else that needs to be done?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 F-150, 4.2L V6 with 206,000 miles that recently developed a rear-end shudder/vibration. According to my door jam axle code (27) and the axle tag (3 37), I have what appears to be a conventional rear differential, even though most of my research would indicate this rear-end is for the F-250. In any case, and based on other online research, I changed the differential oil with a 75W-140 synthetic and added 4oz of a friction modifier. Now the vibration appears to be worse. It primarily vibrates when taking off from a stop, whether turning or not.
I have felt the vibration at speeds up to 60mph, but it is more noticeable at lower speeds. The vibration also seems to diminish after driving the truck for longer periods of time, particularly if at highway speeds. In other words, when I drive to and from work, which is about 30 minutes each way of mostly highway, the vibration is barely noticeable once I exit the highway and slow back down to 35-40mph. When feeling the vibration, if I decelerate, the vibration immediately ceases, but starts again when I accelerate. It's not as noticeable if I accelerate harder, but I generally don't do that. The gears inside the differential didn't have any noticeable wear, chips or slop/play. What may be plaguing my usual trouble-free F150?
I have jammed rear doors on my 1999 Ford F-150 XLT 2wd. Opened when I bought the truck a year ago, no accidents or damage since, but first one door, then the other decided to not open. Will I have to pull the interior door panel off to get at the mechanism ?
View 10 RepliesI have an 01 f-150 4.6 triton and it now blows a sometimes pretty big ploom of white smoke at start up. Sometimes it smokes for a while after that and sometimes not. It runs smooth and strong but I have no clue what to do...
View 13 RepliesI have a '98 Expedition with 170k, 4WD, 5.4 and auto trans.
I drove me truck home about 15 miles and sat idled for 15 minutes while on the phone. The truck started running rough all of a sudden and then died. I tried to restart it and would crank over, but not ignite. I thought fuel pump, grabbed a can of starting fluid and eventually fired up, but was huffing white smoke. After about 3 minutes, it sat there and purred. No problem, right?....
I dropped it in reverse to back into the driveway, when I put it in drive.....nothing, no forward gears now..? It will start up and run now, but still no forward gears. I have a leaky heater core, but rarely have to add water......and no milkshake in the oil.
1999 f150 4.2l v6.. The anti theft system has kicked in and my truck won't turn over, the stereo won't turn on, the lights don't work. How can I fix this?
View 6 RepliesI have a 1999 F150 Lariat 5.4 that's been sitting for a few weeks waiting for a new MAF. Finally got a MAF from a junkyard (out of an 01 Expedition) and installed it.
Turned the key, cranks once, then I hear a loud click and then just continuous clicking. I did some research and people are saying this is just the starter solenoid and that the battery may be dead. I charged the battery a couple hours and waited until it showed 11.some volts, tried to start it again, didn't even turn over, just clicking. I also noticed the theft light blinking rapidly, but if it were the PATS acting up, wouldn't the motor at least turnover?
So I went back to charging the battery. Went out a couple hours later (at night), and when I opened the door, none of the lights came on. Then I hear a click, the lights come on, followed by another click, and the lights went off. This happens each time I open and close the door. So did I potentially pop a fuse? Or is my battery just fried? Would replacing the MAF with the newer one out of the expedition cause any weird issue? I doubt it, but anything is possible at this point I guess.
I bought a 99 f350, that already had HID's in it, i found out i was running the wrong batters (weren't 800 cold crank) I just had to replace the alternator. Ever since the new alternator when i turn on my headlights my truck shuts off. IT fried my IDM and i just put a new IDM and 2 new batteries in it today. Thinking i had fixed the problem i drove around no issues, finally i was leaving someones house and turned on my lights, and truck shuts off!!! It restarts but now im trowing a code!!!! im guessing the HIDs are wired wrong and that's why its shutting down the truck but OEM IDM from ford is 1300$!!!!! brand new one installed today,
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