I have a 99 F150 5.4 V8 4x4, My problem is when I engage 4Hi the dash light "low range" turns on but NOT the 4x4 light. Now if I go to 4Low the 4x4 light turns on(Low Range light stays on). So in essence the lights are backwards. In 4Hi it is not engaging 4 wheel drive. Also its a SOTF not electronic selector.
View 2 RepliesI have a 97 f150 lariat 4.6L 150,000+ miles, and I am getting a lot of electrical things going wrong, been looking, and found sum kind of electric module could be the issue, except the problem are a bit dif then the ones listed. I am just wondering if it could be my issue. my problems are, 4x4 and low range light come on and off with clicking coming from under dash, daytime lights work here and there, air bag light flashes.
Then this morn my wife went to leave for work and there was a air leak hissing sound coming from the brake pedal area and that was b4 she started the truck, then she said when she got there that the heater stayed on after she shut it off and there was a beeping sound coming from the glove box. I am a general diy mechanic and dont know electrical very well, and i am at a loss.
My steering wheel seems like it is bout to fall off, and when making turns it seems to bind and not wanna turn, but when i try to pull on it, it seems sturdy but it will kinda flop if i go side to side or up and down with it.
I have a 2002 7.3 4x4 truck. The 4x4 will not engage, the lights on the dash don't even light up. I took it to the ford dealer and they said the fuse box and gem module. (800.00 to fix). They said the windshield leaked and shorted then out, so I needed to be replaced? I have replaced the windshield and fixed the leak, my question is the fuse box and gem a plug and play and do different years work?
View 5 RepliesThis is my "03 F350 single wheel 7.3 automatic 4x4. For quite some time now I have to manually lock the front hubs. Maybe it would work automatically, maybe not, and now I always have to manually lock the hubs.....but I can live with that. The problem now is that the selector switch on the dash isn't working or something else is preventing the transfer case from going into 4x4. The 4x4 light on the dash also does not come on.
I have checked all the fuses and they are good, I do not have a owners manual so I don't know what to look for in the fusebox. Perhaps it is on a relay? Also, I would like to check the dash switch for power coming and going but how do I get the switch out of the dash? I'm afraid I'll break the bezel around the switch if I pry too much.
I have a 99 F150 4X4 with 4 wheel ABS and 80K miles. My ABS light on the dash has been coming on recently. It will go out for a while, & then come on again later.What is the first step to figure this out? I am a points/carburetor guy trying to figure out these modern machines.
View 14 RepliesWhat are some simple checks, my 4x4 low range does not engage, just stays in 4 hi. 2003 f350 screw v10.
View 5 RepliesMy 4wd doesn't engage on my 04 powerstroke. The dash light doesn't come on. I replaced the relays, switch, and 4wd module, I checked the fuses, all fuses are good, but fuse 31 doesn't get power to it. The voltage at the relay block reads 12v with the fuses out, but drops to around 7v when they're plugged in. I have no power to the Tcase (.15v).
View 11 Replies1999 F-150 Sport 4x4
So the deal is I had to use a slim jim to open up my truck door the other day. Door still locks/unlocks fine, only not with the key. Key will still fit & turn the barrel without any prob. just doesn't engage the lock. Took the door panel off and it looks as if the Rod that connects the inside of the key barrel to the lower (part)? not familiar w/name. has come loose.
Looking for a diagram/picture of how it should look to get everything put back together so the key'll work again. Sucks unlocking passenger side and climbing over to open driver door.
I engage my 4wd all the time to keep it working and lubed up. tonight i turned it on and it was making a light clicking noise like a card in the spokes of a bike (not loud) and there was no vibrations or nothing that really sounded bad..what could be making this noise, what should I look for...
View 5 RepliesThe odometer light turns on and off (mostly off) and seems to be getting worse. The repair shop I go to said its a dealer item and they usually send them out to a specialized shop, the dealer said replace instrument cluster. I may not be the best but I would like to try a few things before I shell out the money. I read that it may simply be the connections at the Instrument cluster plugin which might just need cleaning, read another fix which involved Pencel soldering, Cold Solders on the instrument clusters circuit board.
View 2 Replies1999 F-150 XLT 5.4L Triton 4x4 super cab with a 4" body lift. I bought it used. It has 225,000 miles with engine and transmission rebuilt. This truck doesn't get driven every day - sometimes sits for a week or so at a time...
Issue: A couple weeks ago, it took 4 or 5 attempts to get it to start. Once it started it ran fine and re-started fine. Then my wife drove it but parked it back at home with the gas practically empty. Then it sat for at least a week or so before attempting to start it again. Now it just turns over and won't fire. I suspect fuel pump relay, fuel filter, or fuel pump (hoping its not the latter)
What I have done so far:
1. I put more gas in it in case it really was skimming the bottom of the tank.
2. I tried cycling the key several times thinking that maybe the fuel line just needed to prime.
3. I don't hear the fuel pump "whine" for two seconds when I turn the key to just before start.
4. I checked the fuel pump relay fuse (#10) - not blown
5. I have swapped thet fuel pump relay (#301) with another relay
6. I put 12 volts across the just the relay and I can hear it picking up and dropping out (when not inserted into slot 301)
7. I put my hand on the relay and had someone else turn the key and I can feel it picking up and dropping out (when installed into slot 301)
8. I went and checked out a fuel pressure tester from auto zone and connected it to the schrader valve and got 0 psi while turning the engine over.
All this points me to the fuel pump, but I am not looking forward to dropping the gas tank. With 0 psi, I doubt the filter is just clogged. I would still get some kind of pressure at the fuel rail, right?
I have a 2003 Honda Accord that I bought used two years ago. Lately, when it rains heavily, the battery light on the dash turns on and the power steering shuts off. I've had to pull over a couple of times. The problem only happens when I drive over 20 mph, solves itself within a minute after I stop, and never happens when it's dry outside. I think the problem has to do with splash from water on the road. What's going on, and how I can fix it? It's pretty dangerous.
View 10 RepliesThis ID10T light came on last weekend, and I just started trying to fix this. I found this post [URL] ....., but this isn't my problem.
The alt is old, but tested good four times at Napa. Battery is three years old, and it's holding good charge. My scan gauge 2 is showing 11.4-11.6, and I'm guessing this is what's throwing the code, although there isn't an actual code.
I don't have the money to go just start replacing parts, and I need this truck for next weekend, 10/3/15, so I hope to find something by then.
At 2000rpm the SC2 is still showing 11.6 volts, so would it be the charging system? Volt reg? Something in there is clamping the voltage down. At 18 years old, and 250k miles I'm not afraid to put new parts into.
I bought a 1998 F250 5.4 XLT, 4x4, automatic gear shifting, electric 4x4 HI/LO switch. I'm living up on a hill and when I drove back home last time there was snow and I had to use 4x4 all the way up back home. 4x4 worked fine. I parked the truck and switched of 4x4.
But when I started the truck next time and switched in a gear the 4x4 dash light started blinking. But different to many post I read so far the 4x4 dash light is not just blinking 6 times every 2 minutes, it is blinking constantly very fast (double time of flasher) as soon as I switch in a gear, even without moving the car. The dash light is blinking regardingless to the position of the 4x4 switch. I realized that interior lamp is flashing in same rythm as the 4x4 dash light.
When I shift from 2HI to 4HI 4WD does not engage but it sounds like shift motor on transfer case is doing something. When I switch to 4LO 4WD does not engage either but the gear reduction works. I noticed that when I drive downhill and put on brakes the 4x4 dash light stops blinking for short.
What might be the problem?
What I tested so far:
- All fuses (under dash and under hood) are okay
- Relays under the hood (they switch when I connect them to 12V)
- Switched heating mode selector to panel. Air comes out of panel. Then switched on 4x4 and air comes still out of panel. Not switching to window. So vacuum pump system should be okay as well, right?
- disconnected car battery for a while. Reconnected, started engine, put in a gear and 4x4 dash light was NOT blinking any more. But as soon as I drove a few meters it started blinking again.
- When I drive the speed indicator works as well. So shouldn't be the rear speed sensor, right?
What else can I test?
Why the O/D off light on the dash is flashing??? Whats it mean? Its a 2000 ford explorer...4.0 V-6
View 9 RepliesThe e brake is not engaged but the light is on. how can i kill the light?
View 14 RepliesJust got this truck, and found out i have some kind of issue. At night I can't see the dash because the dash lights don't work. I have checked all fuses and they are good. I did find this plug, and I'm wondering if it may be the cause of my dash not lighting up.
View 3 RepliesI started out with misfires in cylinders 1 and 7. Replaced all spark plugs (used autolites, i know i know). While replacing them I found that the boot on coil 8 was beat up with a chunk missing. It was working before I replaced plugs. After I changed everything out the 8th quit working completely and I still had a miss in cylinder 1.
Replaced coils on both of those and put a new wire connector on for 8th cylinder because it no longer clicked in correctly anymore. Truck runs infinitely better than it did prior to this, but according to OBD2 I still have misfires in 1 and 8.
Mostly in the 50-60mph range. What else could be causing this??? Injector maybe or is there some other sensor or timing problem? My dad has a compression test kit, but he lives several hours away so I can't just get to that right away.
98 F150. Failed inspection for the dash brake light not coming on when you turn the key on. It comes on with the park brake set. Should it come on with key on as a bulb test?
View 7 RepliesMy amber ABS dash light in my 2003 F150 came on the other day. I changed out the rear pumpkin sensor, ohmed the front wheel sensors (they were within specs posted in FTE forum) and changed out the master cylinder pressure switch under the hood (my left/rear bulb was burnt out around the same time the ABS light came on). After doing all this the light remains....so I had the ABS code read and mechanic advises code C1206 was present. He recommended replacing the "dump valve on the frame rail". He also advised this is a very expensive fix so I might just want to live with the light being on all the time. What should my next steps be to get rid of the ABS light and get my ABS system working properly?
2003 F150 SuperCrew 4X4
4.6L V8 , 285/75/16 tires , 127K miles
Have a 97 F150 4.2 that won't start. The lights come on in the interior. Dash lights all come on, turn the key and nothing. Replaced the solenoid on the firewall and no go. Was able to jump it at the solenoid on the firewall and it started. Not sure what's causing this.
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