Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - Way To Access Cylinder 4
Apr 1, 2014
1999 f250 ld, 5.4.
Started running rough, checked codes. Initially got po300, po304. Reset, and when I checked again, had po171.
Checked the PCV lines, and found a split right near the throttle body. Of course. broke the plastic tube trying to pull it off. Replaced the short piece of hose with a longer piece to make up for the broken plastic tube.
Now, po171 is gone, but the others remain.
Cylinder # 4 looks impossible to get to. I would like to swap COPs to see if the code moves.
A. does this make sense?
B. how the hell to I get back there?
At a minimum, it looks like I have to disconnect a bunch of hoses, and maybe even remove the fuel rail.
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I have a 1999 F-150 4.2L with a misfire in #5 cylinder. I have replaced plugs, plug wires and coil pack, checked compression (147 psi) and ran 4 cans of seafoam thru it and still getting misfires on acceleration. It'a a 5 speed and it sounds rough and runs a lil rough as I go thru the first 3 gears, then it runs good as I get up to speed and cruises fine at 80mph. I'm thinking a bad fuel injector???
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I'm working on my 99 f-150. I replaced all my spark plugs and coils after I got a misfire on cylinder 3 reading on the scanner. The truck was running ok but two weeks later it started to ride rough again I checked the scanner and got the same reading for a misfire on cylinder 3. Why its giving me the same misfire again? Could my injector cause that misfire? What about the egr valve?
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Ford F150 1999 5.4 XLT... I've had this truck since may 2013 from the 2nd owner who only drove it
occasionally to make sure it ran. For the last 5 weeks there have been two occasions where my service engine light appeared...once on 12/28/15 and again today. Both read cylinder 4 misfire. Upon searching this piece which I'm assuming is the boot that covers or houses the spark plug is very unsecure and causes a shaking feeling as I accelerate or idle. Being so far back I can't reach it with extensions on a ratchet and barely fit my hand back there. Having to consider taking it into a shop for further analysis and repair but I'm trying to save as much money as possible as I am in between jobs since mid January. I have a picture attached...
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99 F250LD 4x4 w/5.4 and 215k . I'm sure I'm not the only one with this problem. Just had quite a bit of rain in my area. I didn't drive the truck in it but 3 days after the rain stopped I did. Skipping badly ! It has done it before and will clear itself up after a heat cycle or two. This time it kicked a p0307 code. # 7 cylinder not fire correctly I believe. I got ready to replace the cop but decided to wait a day. In the mean time I pulled the connector and blue compressed air through it and the male connector.
The next morning I decided to drive it before replacing the coil. Absolutely no skipping at all. Drove at different speeds , up heels slow , high speeds, no skipping. Ran the truck for about 20 minutes or so. Is the connector getting moisture in it ? Can I fill the connector with dielectric grease? Is there another problem. I cleared the codes and am going to drive a couple of cycles to see if any come back. Like I said it has done this before but not bad enough to throw a code so I'm not sure if it's always number 7.
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So I did a cylinder contribution test and a buzz test today. It buzzed evenly on all cylinders. Then when I did the cylinder contribution test I got these codes,
P0269 cylinder 4 contribution balance
P0284 cylinder 8 contribution balance
It has been running a little rough lately but not smoking. Seems to be chattering more than it was too. I did the FRx, HPx, CVDs and banjo bolt mods about 500 miles ago and it was a lot quieter and ran better. Just recently started running rough and a little louder. Could these injectors be bad? I did new injector O-rings about 800 miles ago. I ran the test with the engine cold and with it warmed up and got the codes both times. It seems to have a little bit of throttle flutter when holding it about half throttle while driving.
As far as I know the injectors haven't been replaced and they have 186K miles on them.
2001 F-350 Lariat Dually Supercab 6-spd manual 7.3 Powerstroke Turbo Diesel 186,000 miles....
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Cleaning the evaporator on a 03 F250? A buddy of mine cleaned his F150 and said it made a noticeable difference. I was thinking of trying it on mine. If you have, whats the easiest access? Any recommended cleaner?
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Trucks throwing codes for cylinder 3 and 8 misfire. I pulled the plugs and both were covered in oil and cylinder 8s electrode was literally gone. so I replaced the plugs and within 5 miles it was missing again. so I replaced all plugs, all wires and coil packs. cylinder 8 plug had fouled out. Its a 4.6l 99. I have a mild exhaust leak where the manifold connects to the downpipe. but not bad enough I feel it should matter. it runs rough until about 3k rpm and then it kinda straightens out.
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I have changed the COP and the injector as well as the spark plug. I am still having a misfire on #7 cylinder....
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Got myself into a tight situation with a truck I recently purchased and seeing if any of you have experienced the same thing or know what may be going on. I bought a 1998 F-150 with 213,000 miles and a 4.2 engine. When I test drove the truck it had a small chugging vibration, for lack of a better term, but the check engine light was not on and it seemed to run great while driving. No problem at highway speeds nor below.
On my way home the check engine light turned on which turned into a blinking check engine light and I knew I had been taken by a person with a diagnostic computer who cleared the codes. He made a comment about it turning on before but his "buddy" fixed the issue but I took his word because he seemed like a decent person.
I took it to a local shop and, if I remember correctly, error code 302 came up for misfire on cylinder #2. He changed the plugs and wires and it seemed to run a lot better. About 5 miles later on my way home the check engine light turned back on, but it still seemed to run smoothly by the time I got home.
The next day I took it back to him and this time we got the same error code plus (again going of my poor memory) error 174 which he said was cylinder #2 running lean. Earlier today he called and said he checked over everything and couldn't figure out anything wrong until he checked the compression. He said the other 5 cylinders were around 130 psi and cylinder #2 was at 75 psi.
Now this mechanic runs more of a brake and exhaust shop so his next statements are why I'm coming to all of you for your opinions.
He said the cylinder was shot and everything inside was shot including the piston, rings, and everything else associated with #2. (I don't think he got in there to really check it out) After scouring the forums I hear more people talk about the valves may not be sealing correctly and what sound to me, to be smaller issues than the entire #2 cylinder being toast.
I'm not sure if I am going to go after the person who sold it to me or not yet but I would like to see what others may think is going on before I light this guy up. I plan on taking it to a more proficient mechanic to do the work, if deemed worthy of work, but would like to kmow where I stand.
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I have a '98 F150 with 4.6L Triton with low compression in cyl # 4 @ approx. 30#; all other cyl are at 140# or so. Would it be a burnt valve, bent valve, cam? Any harm if I drive it like that? I have not have it on the road yet.
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I have 97 150 it has a misfire on cylinder 4 and 6. I put new coil packs on and new plug wires. Spark plugs are only a year old. what else it could be?
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2000 F150 5.4 engine. The truck was running great, but it's time to sale it. The ignition cylinder periodically will stick. So, my son the genius , took a pair of pliers to force it to turn. I get home from work to move it the front yard and the PATS theft is blinking fast as I try to start it. It cranks just not start. I hear the fuel pump come on. I removed the cover on the steering column and there is no damage to the ring around the key cylinder or anything I can see, just the cylinder itself . I tried disconnecting the battery, switching relays,etc.
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