Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 V8 - No Crank / Would Not Start
Sep 6, 2016
I have a '99 F-150 with 4.6L V-8. The truck has run perfectly since I bought it a year ago. My grandson took it a short distance to a neighborhood store, and when he got back he parked on the neighbor's lawn.
IMMEDIATELY after turning it off, I told him to move it, and it would not start. Wouldn't even turn over. I did a little research, and replaced the most likely culprit, the starter....no change in condition. When keyed to start, the dash lights up, but that's it! I did get under the truck and there IS voltage getting to the large power lead.
The starter has it's own solenoid, however there is another one mounted to the firewall. Does this have anything to do with the starter?
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I am having problems with my truck not sure where to start. It was my everyday truck until one day I got ready to leave for work and the truck wouldn't say anything. It was getting power but no crank no start. Called tow truck he checked battery said that it was good. I got home tried to start truck and it started. I drove to the store and it did the same thing no crank no start. It has 110,000 Sigle cab manual windows...
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I have a 1997 F350 7.3 with standard xmission. Have not messed with it since Oct of last year. Then it would crank but no start. Now when I turn the key there is no wts or nothing the gauges move, and tach moves when cranking, but nothing else.
The cam and crank pos sensors have been changed. The high pressure sensors changed. Now when I hook it to the AE it says cannot connect to truck. Where I need to start? Have checked all fuses that I know about.
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I have an intermittent security system issue. I sometimes get a dotted line in odometer and rapidly flashing theft light.
Crank no start. After a time, the theft light flashes a code of 1 then 4. Research gives me the result that PCM did not power up.
Have pulled gauges. Fixed known cold solder joint issue. Checked all connectors and reinstalled. Truck starts fine about 7/10 tries.
I have replaced battery terminals. Removed cleaned and replaced all firewall grounds. Checked harness connection blocks and PCM connector. Made sure all under hood fuses and relays working.
Currently sitting in a parking lot waiting for it to decide to start again. Only one chipped key. Where to look next? 1999 F150 xlt 6 cylinder.
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So she will crank all day but no start. Theft light is going nuts like I am trying to steal my own truck!! I've read it could be a PATS issue.
However after I unplugged my pos batt cable and hook it right back up she starts like nothing ever happened.
its only happening every once in awhile. but it does get old. I have been just leaving my pos cable off whenever I shut the truck off.
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Took my dad's snailblazer (trailblazer) since the 4.2 i6 in it gets better mpg than the old worn 5.4 in the f150. Well I didn't leave much gas in the 30 gallon tank about 1/4 tank or 7 1/2 gallons. My dad took it to the gas station on Friday and filled it to 3/4 of a tank. Got back in the truck and attempted to turn it over and got nothing.
Battery cable was a bit loose from what he told me, so he tighten it up. Nothing. I know the fuel pump is still going cause when you turn the key forward you can hear it whine. Starter is only a few years old maybe 6 or so. Not sure if that went bad or something else.
Last time something similar happened the A/C compressor seized up and wouldn't allow the engine to turn over. Well we eliminated the compressor around '09 and bolted a pulley in its place. Off the top of my head I can't think of anything that would have seized up causing this.
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I have a 97 F150 w 4.6L engine with auto trans which I bought new and has approx. 150,000 miles on it. Very recently it would crank and crank and not start or sometimes would start. In searching through multiple threads on here many of the Ford techs recommended replacing the IAC valve as a cheap and easy to do fix and I did that. The OEM factory IAC valve appeared to be dirty with black soot. I also cleaned the MAF sensor in the air filter snorkel. I also replaced my very old battery at the same time. I verified that the fuel pump was running for about a second or two and shuts off after the ignition switch was turned to ON so the fuel pump is running since I could hear it. I replaced he fuel filter several years ago so it should be OK and not plugged.
I had to use starting fluid after the battery replacement to get the truck running but after I got it started and I did several driving cycles over three days to make sure the truck computer reset properly and the truck was running fine and starting without a problem. I was checking the starting every 4 hours or so for the first two days and it would start on the first crank every time without a hiccup.
This morning on day 4 when I went to start it the same problem occurred where it would crank several times and not start. I loosened the filter snorkel up and shot some starting fluid in there and it cranked up after a couple of tries and ran fine all the way to work. It seems like I have a fuel delivery issue of some type. I know the fuel pump is inside the tank and very expensive to replace if it turns out that it needs replacement. That is definitely beyond my capabilities. I plan to check the fuel pressure this weekend when I have a chance and can rent a gauge from Autozone.
My question is this: If it turns out to be a defective fuel pump can I just add an inline electric fuel pump outside the tank and have it pull through the tank in the pump leaving the in-tank pump abandoned in place? Are there any other sensors or parts I should be checking for voltages, resistance, etc. that would affect fuel delivery for starting? The truck seems to run very well with no misses of any kind and accelerates nicely after it starts. Also, no "Check Engine" light at any time and the bulb is working since it lights up momentarily when the ignition is turned to ON position.
Update Saturday June 25 - Got a fuel pressure test gauge and got the following results after installing a new fuel filter:
1. Bled off fuel pressure to connect gauge and after 5 or 6 Key On, engine off cycles the pressure came up to about 38psi and truck started up fine after pressure was at 38 psi. The pressure built up slowly after the bleed off with each ON/Off cycle and that is why it required 5 or 6 cycles to reach 38 psi.
2. Key ON, engine idling maintained 31 psi
3. Key ON, engine revved up slightly maintained about 31 psi and seemed to stay there even with more throttle increase.
4. Key ON, engine idling, disconnected fuel pressure regulator line and pressure increased to about 40 psi and stayed there
5 . Left the gauge connected after turning off engine. Key OFF, engine off, after 1 min fuel pressure increased to 33psi. It is about 90 degrees in the shade here today.
6 Key OFF, engine OFF, after 2 min gauge read 33 psi, after 5 min increased to 34 psi, after 15 min decreased to 33 psi, after 30 min decreased to 29 psi, after 45 min decreased to 26 psi, and after 60 min decreased to 23 psi. The pressure seems to decrease slightly with time which I think is what it is supposed to do. Is the pressure decrease rate too fast or about right?
The truck seems to be running fine and starts up immediately after sitting for a few hours but I am making sure to turn the key on/off for at least one or two cycles to build up fuel pressure and the truck starts every time for the last week. Does it seem like my fuel pump is OK or not? Fuel pressure regulator OK or not? Any other diagnostic tests I should run?
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My 1999 F-150 is having an issue after a tune up; changed coil pack, plugs and wires. It started and ran fine before, but after the tune up it doesn't even crank, just clicks and clunks. I hear a whine from the alternator, but last I checked (a couple days ago), it tested fine so I dunno if it went bad.
I thought it was PATS, but the theft light turns off when the key is in the on position and the fuel pump primes. I dunno if it's the battery, but it tests out OK with my voltage tester (12v+) But it may not have the amps required.
If the coil pack isn't grounded right, like if the platform it's on is corroded, would that cause this issue?
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I left my F150 to sit over the winter parked near my house. Battery was bad when I went to start it a few weeks ago. Got a new battery, threw it in, but still no start. It wouldn't crank.
Went to work on it today and the battery was totally dead, took it to schucks and they said it was bad. So I got it replaced with a fresh one and I'm still getting the same thing.
Turn the key on and accessories come on, turn it all the way and nothing happens, except for the aftermarket radio turns off. I replaced the ignition switch last year. I tore apart the dash to see if that went out again but it looks fine.
What should my next step be?
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I have a 2002 F150 5.4L (VIN-L) that has been sitting in the driveway since February. I have been a mechanic for 30 years for large commercial trucks, and my own truck has me stumped. I'm sure I've forgotten something but I'll try to list everything I have tried so far. It started with crank no start, no check engine light, checked for trouble codes got a trouble code for the CHT(cylinder head temperature) sensor.
- Replaced the CHT sensor. Cleared codes.
- Dash lights up fine, shows mileage, and anti-theft is not flashing while cranking.
- Fuel Pump does not seem make any sounds. Hit the tank with a hammer. Nothing.
- A little fuel comes out of the schrader valve on the fuel rail when I push on it. I have not checked it with a pressure gauge.
- Attempted to start with ether, nothing, so I'm assuming no spark.
- Fuel pump inertia switch isn't triggered.
- Checked several ground connections to the frame and checked ground connections in the PCM harness. All have less than 5 ohm resistance.
- Unplugged and plugged back in cam shaft sensor.
- Checked voltage on the TPS(throttle position sensor) I'm unsure about the results, if the TPS was bad wouldn't it just idle funny and/or stall?
Fuel Pump and PCM relays in the underhood fuse block appear to be good. All other fuses and relays appear to be good. I have been swapping the relays with one I think is good, although. Searched all over for additional relays, and found 3 inside the cab behind the passenger air-bag. Can't seem to find anything in the Haynes/Chilton manual that lists what they do. They are about half the size of the fuel pump relay.
Manually grounded the fuel pump relay, relay clicks but I don't hear a buzz from the fuel pump. Id like to run 12V to the fuel pump directly to see if that's my issue, but I'm not sure where to connect it without frying something important.
I bought the alldata.com DIY guide for my truck and it hasn't worked much. I have read extensively about others with similar problems and I just don't know what to do next. My main question here is, if the fuel pump is bad, would that stop the spark plugs from working? I'd rather not replace the fuel pump without being absolutely sure.
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I have a 97 f150 with a 4.9..... I drove it less than a half a mile and shut it off. when I got back in it to start it up it wouldn't do anything like the battery was dead but all the electrical worked but it would not turn over. after about 4 hours when I returned, it started just fine. drove it straight home and shut it off and immediately tried to start it again and had the same issue. What the culprit may be ?
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i have a 99 f150 with a 4.6 that will not start. it has sat for a while now. when i go to turn the key to turn it on it cranks and cranks and cranks but wont start. the theft light blinks like crazy and the odometer reads dashes. There is also a relay which i do believe is the pcm relay that clicks like crazy. when the relay clicks and the key is first turned to the on position the fuel pump will turn on and off as the relay clicks.
We tried putting a scan tool to it to try to pull a code and the scan tool wont connect. I do believe its the pats system kicking, but i also think its related to this relay clicking like a mother, maybe a bad connection in the junction or something. But I am not really sure how to try to start and find the problem. i have also tried replacing the relay that clicks and the new relay does the same thing.
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I just picked up an 02 Supercrew. It came with a “Ford” remote starter. I imagine it was a dealer install for the previous owner. Anyways when I try to use the remote starter, it will crank the engine over but not fire. If I manually start the truck it fires up immediately. How come the remote start wont fire?
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I have a 1998 F150, had this truck for just shy of 200,000 miles, never a major problem and now she's killing me. Turn the key, no crank,no start, the same time this started the radio also quit working. I can start her with a screw driver at the soleniod (new by the way) runs perfect after that. By the way it's a 2 wheel drive with the 4.6 v-8
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I have a 98 f150 Lariat 4wd Automatic with a 2000 4.6. When i turn the key the only thing that happens is i hear a relay in the fusebox in the dash clicking. I can cross the starter relay on the firewall with a screwdriver and itll start right up. Heres what ive done troubleshooting wise.
1. Checked battery terminals. Fine, it will start with jumping the relay so it seems good with that regard.
2. Tested the relay per the manual. Good.
3.Ohms Tested the white ignition switch box under the dash per manual. Good
4. Voltage tested the Trans Range Sensor per manual. Good.
5. Checked over all fuses, none blown.
6. No theft lights come on.
I figure since it will start jumping the relay that the battery, starter, and starter solenoid are all good. Only thing i cant seem to find is the Starter Interrupt Relay, or any sign of fusible links on the main battery cables. I am really at a loss here i figured one of the components ive tested would be it.
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I just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
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Have a 2000 F-150, 5.4L. Once recently in a parking lot, it would crank but not fire or start. Wife called me to come get her. By the time I got there, she said it started "after she loosened the gas cap & re-closed it." But, it started fine for next several weeks. Yesterday it didn't. I read a bunch of threads here on possibilities. Many troubleshoot items I checked out or had done.
Chilton manual says you can get limited error codes from the light on dash flashing - MIL - Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method.
For now, I'm trying to find the 2nd, separate, one-wire lead "near or with the (main) Diagnostic Connector." They call the single wire / connector the "Self-Test Input connector" (STI). You're supposed to use a jumper between that STI & the upper, right connector of the main diagnostic connector. Then you (may) get flashes corresponding to codes via the key on, engine off method.
I see no such single wire lead or connector anywhere near there. Not up under the dash either - stuck my head under there & used mirror. There's a separate connector (not in use) clipped on the L side of the main diagnostic connector, but it has 5 pins inside. I took pics, but forum says I "may not post attachments." Been a member for yrs. That extra 5 pin connector faces toward firewall.
There's an "empty hole" - 1/4 in. (facing forward) in the bracket that holds the main diagnostic connector. Just above the main connector. Not sure if something was ever there
If no one knows how / if the Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method works or where the jumper goes, I'll be forced to buy a code reader w/o researching which are decent or crap (around $200 or less). I maybe? could wait to order one online (if knew which one). Also have AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance, NAPA, PepBoys & others locally.
* The truck shows a check engine soon light, so should be a code already. * Yes, I tried her loosen / tighten gas cap trick.
* Also put a slow charger on for a while & even used the fast start setting on charger. No go, but engine turns really fast.
* Crawled under the gas tank & listened for fuel pump to activate when key is turned to Run.
* Fuel pump made a small noise - more like a relay or "clicking" - not a whine or whir.
* Checked most fuses - under dash & hi voltage box - that have anything to do w/ fuel pump, PCM & several others - mentioned in similar threads here.
Can't really check relays & don't want to just start replacing parts. I don't have a code reader & reluctant to buy one from local store w/o some reasonable research. (I don't mind buying one, but...). If I could drive it to the auto store, I wouldn't be asking this. Chilton's doesn't say if this malfunction indicator lamp method will work if a vehicle won't start. But, a code is already thrown.
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I have an 02 f250 230,000, first 7.3. I've owned it since Oct and put less than 6,000 miles on it. I have another cold crank no start. New glow plugs and Glow plug relay last weekend. Worked fine that weekend. It sat all week, then crank no start fri night, it was like 70 degrees for the high that day. Plugged it in over night and it started. Did not fire right up cranked it for a couple seconds. I drove it all day, started every time. Valve covers have 5,000 miles on them. Fuel Filter heater fuse not blown. But don't know how to check it for sure. And don't know where to go with it from here. Getting frustrated with crank no starts. No troubles found.
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I got a 2000 7.3l with 400,000 miles on it that decided to just not start anymore after I parked it for a couple days. Its always been a hard starter due to needing glow plugs but I can deal with that. it doesn't even try to fire anymore. I replaced the CPS (my tack bounces when cranking). The ICP has oil in the plug so I just unplugged it for now till I replace it.
I pulled the IPR and cleaned it really good and bench tested it with 12 volts and could here it clicking so I put it back in. I can get under the drivers door with the key on and hear the fuel pump running. I gain oil pressure on my dash gauge when cranking. I check all my fuses. my WTS light comes on . I just don't have any fancy scan tools to make this easier. Also just cause I was feeling lucky I just went out and bought 2 new batteries for it yesterday so we are good there.
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Friend's 2000 7.3 wont start, just crank and crank tried to fire but nothing in the cold leave it plugged in and it starts leave it in a shop over night and it starts with a shot of either, he is a truck driver and the truck will sometimes sits for 6 weeks at a time this time 2 weeks before I touched it. He wanted me to install a fuel pump so I did and started the following:
Cracked fuel lines to see if I had fuel psi at both heads
I tested glowplugs they all read at 0.3 on all 8
I have power to harness as the same at both sides of the relay
RPM tach jumps
Oil psi gauge rises
Using my phone I can read hpop and 2000 at cranking (how accurate that is im not 100% sure)
All fuses good
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So I got all 8 injectors upgraded and excited when I get them back I put them all in in kind of a rush. And in that rush I left the cylinders full of excess oil. So obviously when I tried to start it hydro locked. Angry at myself. I kept trying to crank hoping it would fire and just shoot that oil out. Nope, so I went back to taking all the glow plugs out and firing it all back out. Put it all back together then tried to fire her up. Took a minute but she started and I let it run for a while. Hit the gas a few times and then it died. Couldn't get it started again. It would just crank, I checked the icp and ipr and the icp did not build above 35 psi and the ipr was at 98.04% so I just figured the o rings blew out when it hydro locked.
So I took it all back apart put new o rings on, took my time and put it back together right double checking everything. Got it all back together and went to start it, it would just crank around 160-170 rpms, battery voltage at 10.6 icp built up to 140 but now it won't build past 40. Ipr still goes to 98.04. The engine ran just fine prior to injector change, I put a new upgraded hpop prior to injector change, new ipr, icp, cps. Everything checks out, but it will not build oil pressure while crank I've killed a set of batteries then went all out and spent 350 at napa for some optima red tops. I did notice the cylinder 7 injector is the AE injector. It suppose to be in cylinder 8, idk if that's affect the oil pressure building up?
But as far as I know, I'm not building oil pressure. So idk if the hydro lock could have ruined something to keep it from building oil pressure?
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