Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 V8 - AC Pulley Bearing Went Out
Apr 16, 2013
My 99 5.4 V8 2wd truck is having AC problems. Everything started this time last year when my ac pulley bearing went out, I replaced it (pain in the neck) and everything worked fine until a few weeks ago. I was lubricating under the truck and i noticed the Clutch Hub and bolt had fell off. I went to a junkyard and took a new hub and bolt and 3 spacers and installed it in my truck. I tightened the bolt as hard as I could get it. The next few weeks the air was colder but i noticed the hub always spun with the pulley. It didn't matter if the ac was on or off the hub spun with the pulley 100% of the time.
I tried loosening it last weekend and it just spun freely never engaging it just rattled there. I got frustrated so i just tick the hub off. Now the pulley on the end of the compressor is just spinning with not hub bolted on it. I don't know what to do and i don't want to pay ford 1grand to put a new clutch and compressor in. The high pressure line also seems to be very greasy almost like there is an ac coolant leak there. I don't know if its bad to have the hub engaged 100% of the time or if its better to just not have one on there.
Also whenever I drive around town from 10-35 miles an hour my truck squeaks as it goes over bumps, it sounds like a dogs chew tow it is driving me crazy and i cant replicate it by moving my truck around when its in park and I don't know where its coming from. My truck has 141K on it I'm in college so I have to fix everything myself pretty much.
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I am not sure which it is but I cannot turn the pulley by hand. How do you tell if the pulley is bad or the whole compressor? I went out to start the truck and it wouldn't start. It died so I restarted it and then I seen the smoke from the front of the truck. I opened the hood and the flipping belt was just hanging there. Is there a way to just bypass the unit for now? I wont be needing the AC till summer and that is several months away.
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Need to replace the ac compressor bearing/pulley on my 2001 f350 7.3. My question is do I need a special tool like a pulley puller or is there another way to remove pulley? I already have the clutch assembly removed as well.
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i replaced my a/c compressor on my 2006 f-250 2 yrs ago but had not refilled with r134..only the pag oil. Now i decide to refill seeing my wife uses the truck and compressor would not engage, i was able to bypass it by removing relay and jumping it with a paperclip. Compressor started up but seems to have seized on pully. the pulley seems fine and still turning freely. I can no longer turn it manually when truck is stopped and i could before i jumped it. could the clutch only be replaced or does the bearing and pulley have to be replaced
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Okay so in my 99 f150 ecsb 4x4 i believe i spun a bearing. its making an awful noise. I was wondering if it was possible to drop the oil pan while the truck is in the air and change the spun bearing. is this possible to do? with 205,000 miles on it...
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An idler pulley on my 2002 F-150 seized and snapped the serpentine belt. The pulley is below and to the left of the belt tensioner. The pulley doesn't have a bolt but a hole that looks like an allen wrench would fit it. I couldn't find an allen wrench to fit it. Called AutoZone and they have a pulley removal tool in three sizes. What size wrench would fit the idler pulley? I want to make sure I get the correct size tool so as not to screw up the pulley when I start pulling on it.
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Is it common to have to shim the water pump pulley? I don't know why but mine seems to have moved back a fraction of an inch. I loosen the belt tension and slide the belt back and as soon as I start the motor, the belt slides forward again. And as I rev the motor, the belt moves even further out onto the edge of the water pump pulley and starts to squeal. All other pulleys are aligned and the belt spins fine on them. I thought about buying a shim kit, but I ordered a new Motorcraft water pump since I have 154k miles on my truck.
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got the 4.6, AC clutch is just winding like crazy, so Im going to do a cheap fix and jus bypass the pully. Now do I need to remove the compressor or can I just get a belt for a 4.6 without AC and just not use it?
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I need to replace the bearing on my Idler pulleys, both smooth and grooved. I also want to replace the bearing on the tensioner pulley. What are the part numbers and the best place to order them from?
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Been trying to isolate my noisy serpentine belt. Had the belt off and spun everything, only thing I found that made any noise was the alternator. It had a nice churp like a bearing was on its way out in it. So I replaced that figuring my squeak was going to go away. No such luck. Listening to it again while it was idling, I crawled underneath. Almost seems like the churping noise is coming from the Crank Pulley. Is there a bearing on this pulley that goes bad?
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1997 4.6L.. Have an intermittent grinding / dragging noise coming from the pulley (?timing) area that I'm trying to pin down. Both the alternator and tensioner were replaced prior to the noise starting. The ac compressor and the power steering pump are original. The fan clutch was replaced about 4 years ago and the water pump 8 years ago. Timing chain / guides / tensioner are all original.
I don't notice any of the common ps pump indicators (whine increase when steering) but noticed the fluid level was down slightly and that the pulley seems to have some inward - outward play with the belt off. I also don't have any other engine symptoms like rough idle or any codes being triggered. How to isolate the culprit?
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I just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
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The idler pulley bearing of my 3.3l Sonata NF has become quite noisy, as though it is running dry. Does this necessitate a complete pulley replacement or can it be disassembled and the bearing repacked (or if necessary replaced). I am becoming concerned that the bearing may fail altogether soon.
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Wondering how I would take the A/C pulley off to change the bearing or fix the chirp squeal it is making.
I have spun this pulley by hand and it is the culprit making the noise.
It has an inner pulley and an outer pulley(belt pulley). Both spin freely and are not bound up. Just want the terrible noise to go away.
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I have a 2009 Camry 5spd with 92K miles on it. Camry is completely stock and original with meticulous services to engine oil and drained the transmission fluid at 68K miles. I am hearing an engine hum every now and then (although I notice it more often now that I am searching for it) while I am idling. I don't believe it to be engine vibration, rather it is a hum, seems like a belt pulley bearing is going out, or even, and i hope its not, like my throw out bearing in the clutch is going bad.
Only reason I say that is because it makes the hum for a few seconds then goes away, then comes back for a bit. It makes the hum when i have the clutch engaged and when i have the clutch disengaged and a in neutral. I have opened the hood to try and search from where it is coming from but it is just too darn hard to figure out.
I am hoping it is nothing related to my transmission. I may pull the fill plug on it this weekend and try to stick my finger inside to see if I am low on fluids and it is making a hum (but I highly doubt it because when I filled it up after drain i filled it too the top). I haven't experienced any burning of oil and use 5W-20 (Castrol GTX since day 1). I may switch fluids on my next change and use maybe a different brand and viscosity (maybe use standard Quaker state at 5W-30).
Again it isn't an engine vibration, rather just a hum or almost like a stinking wobble and then goes away for a few seconds. I say wobble kind of like you would hear a drive shaft on a truck that wasn't balance properly and was spinning without being centred with counter weights.
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i'm just wondering if i need to worry about preload and backlash if i just pull the carrier out and replace only the carrier bearings. would simply replacing the shims in there original side keep the specs where they should be with new bearings or would i have to completely dismantle the housing and start from scratch.
I only ask because you can move the entire carrier by hand and see the slack in the bearings but i don't seem to have any noises or vibrations coming from the rear end so i don't know if it's worth tearing into...
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I have a 97 F-150 with just over 300,000 miles. I lost all oil pressure and know I need to replace the main bearings. Must I pull the engine to do so?
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We are working on a 97 f250 light duty 4.6 4x4 5spd. Trying to figure out where a bearing noise is coming from in front end. Replaced both front hub bearings from napa. 150 each... the noise is still there. someone said could be cv shafts... although ive never heard a cv shaft make this noise i replaced them anyway cuz one was clickin last time was in the woods. bearing noise is still there..... in a long bank turn to the left the noise goes away till start to straighten out. while replacing the half shafts I grabbed the plates the shafts bolt to and spun them and checked for slack. none found. front diff's full with no leaks. as title says.... what next?
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I have a 2000 F150 XLT 5.4L truck. I noticed the AC went out about a month ago and since then I could hear the AC/Clutch bearing making noise. Well I went to start it the other day after eating dinner out and it wouldn't start. It sounds like it wants to start but it just doesn't have enough umph. I replaced the starter and charged the battery up to 100 percent. It still won't start.
If I take the belt off it will start and I checked the AC/Clutch and I can move it with my bear hands. I tried disconnecting the AC/Clutch fuse and relay but that didn't work. Is it possible that the Clutch is freezing up when I try to start it?
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I had my front driver side wheel bearing blow on me, out of nowhere, while doing about 70mph on my '03 Supercrew 2wd. it really destroyed my spindle and rotor. i replaced everything from the spindle out (rotor,pad,caliper,caliper mounts, bearings,etc). I packed the bearing really good and put it all back together. Well, it happened again, same thing. Doing about 70 and it just blew out of nowhere. Why it could be happening??
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Looking for a video, pictures, or steps that are in depth on how to replace my rear seals and bearings? They are leaking very badly and would like to see some other ways to get it done.
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