Engine will start and run but will miss in a pull and die sometimes but will start back, we hooked it to a scanner and it said (intake wiring) it wasn't a dealer hook up just a gas station garage, we have already done plugs and wires.
View 2 RepliesI have a new to me 98 F250LD with the 4.6/4R70W. I have maintained this truck fro my FIL as best as I could get him to spend (neglected). Filter and fluid replace with Mercon VI last year due to 2-3 shift slip.
He gave me the truck after it would not climb a hill, just hit stall speed and would not move up a steep hill, as I understand it. I put Seafoam trans tune in hoping it would free up sticky solenoids or valves in the VB.
I finally got it registered in my name and drove it to work and back today. After about 25 miles highway driving it shudders pretty bad trying to climb a hill at low speed.
It seems to me that at this low speed, torque converter lockup should not even be a possibility. I do not have COP, but rather a single coil pack. I replaced the wires and plugs for Dad a few years ago, but some shady shop later told him that I didn't replace the left rear (to make an upsale I suppose). Not sure what they may have done in there.
I have scanned with my ELM 327 and Droid using Torque Pro, and the only Fault is EGR flow.
I have a 1999 F-150 with a 4.2L V6. I went out to start the truck this morning and when I powered on the ignition the needles on all the gauges and lights were normal. When the chiming stopped, I turned the key to crank the engine. I heard one click and nothing. Then I noticed all the gauge needles peg out on max, then back to zero. No power at all and nothing. Engine will not do anything. I turn the key to the off position and hear a faint beep coming from under the dash. Not a chime, but a beeping sound. The battery is about 4 months old and the starter is about 2 months old. The engine was bad in the truck when I bought it and I replaced the engine about 2 months ago. It has been running just fine up until this morning. Could the battery be bad? I also have installed new battery cable ends and checked all the connections at the starter.
View 11 RepliesI have a 1999 F150 4x4 5.4, I pulled the heads due to blown head gasket. Prior to pulling heads truck started and run fine other than miss on #1 cylinder. I timed the engine according to Haynes manual and posts on this site. Truck is now hard to start and idles very rough. I does seem to smooth out when reving the engine and seems to have plenty of power. Cant find any vacuum leaks or unplugged wires.
View 1 RepliesI have a 97 f150 with 4.2 4x4 auto. I have a bad miss under acceleration. if i ease on the gas no problems. stomp it and it chugs and pops back thru airbox til it gets to 2500 rpm then clears up. If I shift it manually and keep rpms up its fine till it gets below 2500. I have replaced spark plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, upper and lower intake gaskets, cleaned injectors, new air filter and cleaned o2 and mas sensors. Had vacuum system checked and was told all good.
View 12 RepliesMy dad has a 2000 F-150 with the 4.6L with 90,000 miles. He just had the transmission rebuilt 5,000 miles ago if that. It seems to miss between 45-55 mph when you have a little hill and give it some gas. Once its shifts out of over drive, it seems to be better. With over drive off, it does not miss as much. I know we put new plugs in it but don't remember how long ago it was. He bought the truck brand new.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 XLT Supercab,4.2lt, automatic, 2WD.
I was able to start it about a month or so ago but it was really hard to start. I had to use starting fluid to get it started, and it was still tough to get it to start, but once started and warmed up it ran fine.
Now I tried to start it again and it kicks over and wont start. I tried the same with the starting fluid and it almost starts and dies. I think I used a little too much starting fluid because after a while of trying and spraying starting fluid, I got a hard backfire that sounded like a shotgun that was strong enough to pop off the MAF Sensor and throw it about 10 feet. I nearly crapped my pants! It looks clean and undamaged but I hope I didn't damage the MAF Sensor when if hit the ground.
The truck sounds like its starving for fuel, so I'm not sure if the fuel pump relay is going or has gone bad, or if its the fuel pump. How to check these items without making it a huge project to diagnose?
Once I can get it to start easily, I have a couple of questions about the trouble code that keeps coming back P0174. That was the original problem with it before the starting problem.The diagnostic says that it is lean in bank 2 but a mechanic friend of mine said something about a vacuum leak.
My 98 F150 4WD with 83k on it has a significant pull to the right most noticeable on the highway. I have to keep the wheel turned to the left to be able to go straight. It use to be intermittent but now is constant. Had a frt end alignment done twice with no change. Recently after a long drive on the highway on a crazy hot day, I pulled into a rest area & noticed the L/F wheel was very hot to the point where I thought the plastic center cap might start melting.
The R/F wheel was only warm. This makes no sense to me because with something causing the L/F wheel to heat up I would think it would pull to the left. This has bothered me so much that I've driven with 10psi less in the L/F wheel hoping it wouldn't pull to the right so much but it had no effect. I did recently have the left upper control arm replaced because it was clunking. It was doing this pulling prior to that & it continues.
Have a 2001 F-150 with 4.6L. when i turn the key and pull it out the accessories stay on. What could be wrong and what can i do to fix so I don't have to keep disconnecting the battery?
View 9 RepliesI have 97 f150 x-cab 4.6 auto 4x4. I'm gettin ready to pull motor & trans to rebuild both. I was wondering if I can pull both while still bolted together without having to remove the cab??? And what else will needed to be removed.
View 6 RepliesMy 01 Super Crew 5.4l is missing at light throttle. Cruise control on flat hwy, no miss, slight incline, starts missing. Put my foot into it and either it stops missing or it covers it up where I don't notice it. No codes set at this point. It's got about 135k on it and for all I know it may have had the original plugs in it so I figured I'd change them. Changed the plugs, still misses. Shortly a code set, something about the EGR sensor (it's got another name but I forget what it is at 1:30am). I found I had broken a hose while changing plugs, fixed it, no more code, still misses.
When I sent my GF up to get the non-existent codes checked the parts guy sold her some Lucas fuel system cleaner. I'm figuring a COP going out but the cleaner pretty much completely fixed the miss, till that tank of gas was gone. Few tanks later and it's back again as bad as ever. I bought some seafoam as I've had good luck with that in the past. It almost completely fixes the miss but I get a rare 'bump'. What do I need to look at next? Can it be the fuel filter? I'd think no because I'd figure it'd be even worse at greater throttle opening. Injector? How do I check them?
I recently inherited a 99 Expedition 5.4 with 90k miles. I'm trying to fix it up so I can sell it. Like the title states, the truck runs rough but there's no check engine light on. I did some research and ended up replacing the PCV elbow and that made it run better for a while but now it's back like it was. It won't die, just a really rough idle and a miss while driving. I imagine it's probably a (or a few) coil pack(s), but I have no way of knowing which one(s) to replace. I would think that would illuminate a CEL though. I'm also having problems with the AC. Upon inspection, I found that the compressor clutch assembly was completely gone from the front of the compressor. I replaced the whole clutch assembly, then voided the system of Freon and refilled it to spec, still no cold air. The compressor clicks on and off like it's low on Freon but it can't be. I'd just sell it as is but in south Louisiana a working AC is a huge selling point!
View 1 RepliesI have a 97 f150 4.6 4x4 i cant get my engine to line back up with the motor mounts. Is there a trick to doing this? I've tried to lift the motor several different ways, but still nothing. Its like the motor isn't going back far enough. But it cannot go back any more without hitting the trans?
View 8 RepliesI recently purchased a f150 with a reg cab short bed 4.6 4x4, and when you put it in drive the it shifts up to second fine, but when goes to third just revs up doesnt pull at all. Have to shut o.d. off and goes steady but run 2500 rpms to go 40 mph. I was told to check the solenoids but i dont know, if i do need a new trans how do i identify my trans. I know it has the code "U" on the door sticker, but its an 4r70 w code-w. But the junk yard has a YL3P-FA and a YL3P-JA?
View 1 RepliesAlright so I have an 03 5.4 with 144000 miles. once it warms up to temperature it has a miss and low end power is low and no fuel mileage gets 12 to 13 if I'm lucky. From idle to 3000 rpm its doggy get it over 3000 rpm it runs great. All new plugs and coil packs. What it could be. When the motor is cold it runs great has most its power.
View 3 RepliesI have a 97 f 150 with the 4.2 bad miss on # 6 changed plugs and wires still missing. Also have a bad tick and exhaust smells like fuel. Check engine light is blinking.
View 10 RepliesMy father's 2000 F150 5.4L has developed an issue. But the issue only surfaces in it's last gear. As it shifts into overdrive it begins to miss and hesitate and bog. If you disable overdrive you never feel it.
I'm thinking an exhaust restriction. There are no trouble codes, no check engine light. I notice that the note of his exhaust changes as the vehicle warms up, sounds like it's being smothered. And the flow out of the pipe lessens.
My only issue is whether the EGR is causing it or the converters. Haven't seen them go bright red yet, but this has been going on for a good while.
I wanted to get a few opinions before I tear into it today. I'll do a vacuum test on the EGR valve and rescan the codes but don't wanna drive it and heat up the exhaust when i gotta disassemble it.
I have a 2003 Subaru Forester, manual transmission, about 117k.Three weeks ago I go to back up and the car feels like the wheels have seized up, wasn't able to budge an inch. I couldn't pull forwards or back. Called the tow truck, brought it to the mechanic and the next day they call and said the rear brakes are almost metal to metal, and that the e-brake pad needs to be replaced as well. So I have that work done and a couple days later the same thing happens. I go to the store and when I go to leave I couldn't pull forward or back. It felt like the brakes were engaged and if I were to give it too much gas something would break.
Called the tow truck again to have it brought back to the mechanic, but this time I couldn't wait to meet the tow there, so I just left the key with the mechanic (mechanic was only a couple blocks from where I was stuck). The next day the mechanic calls to say that the tow truck driver didn't have any problem pulling the car onto the tow, and they didn't have any problem pulling the car into the garage. They put it on the lift and took a look, but couldn't see anything wrong with it.I drove it to work and back the next two days and then it happens again. I try to go in reverse and the wheels have seized up. Went back to the car about an hour later and there was no issue. Drove it a couple more days without a problem, then it happened again this evening. This time it begrudgingly pulled forward a couple feet then stopped. Left it there for about an hour, came back and was able to drive it away without issue. When it seized up I couldn't even push it while in neutral.
What could be causing my car to not want to pull forward or back like this?
Just did a tear out and rebuild, installed motor, filled with water. Water is leaking out of the back of the engine somewhere. Leaking as if it were coming out of a 1/4" diameter hole. 1997 V4.6L F150. I guess I have to pull it no matter what. Cracked block? Freeze plugs were all new and installed by machine shop. Initial reason for pulling was water in cylinders and I assumed blow head gasket.
View 1 RepliesI just had my EGR valve and hose and DPFE sensor replaced and the truck is running better than it has in quite a while except that whenever I turn to the left and pull into a parking space it dies.
I've read that it could be a bad power steering pump. This would make sense because mine is pretty noisy when I make a left or right turn. However, it has never caused the engine to stall before. This didn't begin happening until immediately after the recent maintenance.
Is there something I should be looking for that my be related to the new EGR valve/hose or DPFE sensor?
My 4.2L died all of a sudden, it cranks but won't start. Checked the harness side to coil packs, pos. signal but no neg. Tried a code reader keeps coming back link error. Does this mean PCM is fried?
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